lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

so some of you no that my engine blew, so the shop was done 2 days ago putting in a used one in. at first the engine was making a hard knocking noise upon first start up they let it run for an hour or so and it was fine, yesterday they started it up and no hard knock , its making a ticking sound now maybe VTC's?, tomorrow im going to the shop and taking a test drive. does this sound like a bad engine. or should i have the shop get another engine note to add they had gotten an automatic engine would that be able to cause a problem ? info is deeply appreciated thanks

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

anyone?

7mJoe

Does it sound like this,



Or something like this,

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

sounds like the first one

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

Initial louder knocking sound might have been lack of oil in the upper end from sitting.

If it sounds like the top video, it is probably VTCs clacking. Most mechanics will confuse this for sticky lifters if they aren't familiar with VTCs.

Since virtually all VEs clack when they get beyond 100k and you put in a used engine, I would think the odds are really good that it is just VTCs clacking. I had a JDM engine (supposed to be under 50k miles) installed several years ago and within a couple of years, the VTCs started clacking.

When they put in your AT engine, hopefully, you kept the upper intake from the 5-speed. It is different. It won't cause problems, but you are just screwing yourself out of additional hp because the 5-speed has a variable intake. IIRC, everything else is the same except the things you have to swap like the flywheel and clutch stuff. There are some old threads about engine swaps, so it might help to look those up.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

dam it the shop kept the upper intake from the AT im going to take off the top part its the thing that says nissan right.. is it a direct swap ? same hoses same lines, i cant find a write up on how to DIY.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

a loud initial sound could be piston slap, my VG did it maybe once every couple months

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

i grounded the vtc and the clack noise was gone but from i read its not a permanent fix correct me if im wrong, good part is i have a 6 month warrenty so we'll see how this motor turns out

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Yeah the upper plenums swap over. Loosen the 6 bolts using a size six allen (key wrench) or t-handle. Preferably the t-handle with out the ball on the end. I snapped the ball off in the head of the bolt once trying to remove it. Remove those, throttle cables, intake, 6 bolts along the back at the bracket using a 12mm, vac hoses, throttle body and grounding wires. Easier than it all sounds. To help break it loose from the RTV tap the edges with a rubber mallet.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

goodness gracious that 2nd video is hard to watch. Not jealous of that at all

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

thanks dude im give it a shot is the gasket re-usable or does it have to be replaced and does it need rtv seal when applying new seal

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

It is not really a fix. It is reducing your car's ability to vary the valve timing. It can also cause idle fluctuations. To fix it, you need to rebuild the VTCs or replace them with new ones. I am not sure if you can even buy new ones anymore. Last time I checked several years ago, they were very tough to come by and cost a small fortune for just the parts.

The warranty is good, but odds are about 90+ percent of any used engines you get at this point are going to have some VTC clack. The last year they made the VE was in 1994 and very few people have been willing to pay a stealership or shop thousands of dollars to rebuild or replace VTCs. I remember the first time I called about it back in like 2003, the dealership wanted $1600 or something. Even then, my car was worth maybe $3000.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

so i have took my upper intake off my 5 speed engine are there suppose to be flappers in the six holes? how can you tell is there a distinct feature?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Flappers? U mean intake and exhaust valves? Flappers Silly man lol

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

lol i lack knowledge yea is there a distinct feature

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

When you look down off in these ports they should be dark (cylinder chamber). If you have a bright enough light you should be able to see some of the open valves. PLEASE COVER THESE PORTS AS NOT TO DROP ANYTHING IN THERE!


If you want to know how to tell the difference btwn an auto vs MT upper plenum look on the left side of mine. You see the vacuum pwr actuator (lil cylinder thing). Thats the main difference that Cliff was explaining.


Oh sorry for the HUGE A$$ PICTURES.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

thanks for the pics im a lil confused, so i have to swap over the 1st piece in shown in picture 1 also? and does the automatic engine have the hose for the lil cylinder thing to plug into? are you talking about the piece with the suare orange looking sticker of some sort

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Yeah thats the power valve. I don't think you can swap that and the mechanism over to an auto plenum easily. Its easier to just get a 5 speed upper plenum. No the auto doesn't have the hook up for the vac hose for the power valve. On the right bottom corner under the throttle body off in that arrage of vacuum hoses there should be 2 solenoids (one green other brown). Brown is for the egr and the green (MT only) goes to power valve. So you need to make sure you have the 5 speed upper plenum and the green power solenoid.

gp540

iTrader: (1)

I have this similar issue I'm at 250k and sometimes at cold start or after a couple days of no driving it will start with a knocking similar to the first video.. I've been thinking carbon build up.

Now I've put 20k on the car since buying it. If it were rods it would have blown up by now right? Haha.

So what causes this is it a carbon issue or something else time frame wise how long would be this take to fix diy

gp540

iTrader: (1)

In fact this sounds just like mine and again goes away after operating temp reached or sooner... Or at about 2500rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxB-a7C_H20

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

thats exactly what mine sounded like until i grounded the vtc wire sound is still there but no as bad when grounded

gp540

iTrader: (1)

How would I ground this on a AT

nickdoof

iTrader: (2)

For the at engine vs the manual engine. It's just the upper plenum that is different. That's the shiny part that says Nissan. Yes, you need to replace the gasket. No, do not use rtv on this gasket. It's a cheap paper gasket, you can get it from napa/a parts store.

Also, I wouldn't ground your vtc solenoids. The tick is just a tick(for a long time anyways) all you are doing us negating the awesome job Nissan engineers did in designing this engine! It's meant to run with them on. You will get more power if they aren't grounded.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

if thats true im going to undo the grounding and see if i can tell the difference

gp540

iTrader: (1)

So is there any permanent fix for this. is any damage being done running with this issue?

gp540

iTrader: (1)

I found the tsb from Nissan for the issue http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...i6ESMb-SUTPRng