Tapio

I've basically come to the conclusion that 1, 2, or all my rotors are warped so it's time to replace them. I really have no way of telling which ones are warped because they all look fine by just looking at them so I was gonna replace the front..if the problem is solved, ok done. If not, replace the rear as well. I _guess_ when I brake the pulsyness I feel seems like it comes from the front but then again I really have no idea.

Anyways, are there any walkthroughs for replacing just the rotors for a 4th Gen? If anyone could do a search for me and either post it here or email it to me it would be much appreciated. Or perhaps a website that has it? Or diagrams..whatever. I'm more than happy to take anything you guys can give.

Also, are there any special tools that I'll need. I have a full regiment of normal tools, wrenches, ratchet set, torque wrench, etc, etc but nothing like gear pullers or anything made specifically for just the brakes.

Thanks

NastyNissan

you shouldn't need anything special. I think the caliper bolts are 14mm (maybe 17), and since you're replacing the rotors completely, just tap the back side of the old rotors (while rotating the rotors)with a small mallet until the pop off. Typically the pulsing in the brake pedal comes from front brake warpage....the front brakes do 85% of the braking, so the possibility of them becoming overheated and warped is much better than the rears. The only reason the rears would be warped is if you have a frozen caliper. Brakes are possibly the simplest thing to work on, but since they are so crucial to the safe operation of any vehicle, they are often the most feared. If you are comfortable working on them, and have the correct tools for the job, than it shouldn't take any longer than an hour to do all 4 rotors.

Spence

4drsc

No special tools for the front. I haven't replaced the rears but I don't think they require any special tools either.

Remember to torque your wheels to the proper specs (I think its about 75 ft/lbs but check the manual to be sure) since this is what causes lots of them to warp in the first place. (tire store guys put the wheels on with an air wrench and torque them too much - the first time you get the rotors really hot during heavy braking they get warped due to the lug nuts being too tight.) If you are not replacing the pads, you will want to take some relatively rough grit sand paper and rough up the pads a little so they can break in on the new rotors. Follow recommended break in procedures for the pads until they seat on the rotors.

If I remember correctly, you just pull the wheel, unbolt the caliper (be carefull not to let it hang by the brake line) and pull the rotor off. You might have to hammer it slightly if it is rusted on. Some cars have a screw that holds the rotor to the hub but my '97 didn't have any - the lug nuts pinch the rotor down between the wheel and the hub.

A short job. Make sure you support it properly on jackstands.

Good luck,

Jim

Tapio

Wow, didn't think it was that easy to replace them..I figured brakes would be complicated with lots of little bolts and lots of precision aligning to make them work smoothly.

Thanks for the advice. Was planning on devoting an entire weekend to do it, but now ill give it an afternoon at best.


Btw, Painting my calipers. Is it recommended to take them off and do so or leave them on? I figure taking them off is best so I can degrease and grind them down to metal again with a dremel for proper painting but not if it's a difficult task.

XXXL Cracker

iTrader: (3)

You could remove them entirely but why...... A painted mine while on the car and used masking tape and newspaper to cover everything I did not want painted.

I sprayed the caliper down with brake cleaner and scrubbed them with a wire brush.

Tpaed off the caliper and put about four coats of paint on and two of clear coat.

D

taggate

iTrader: (2)

this site may help http://www.motorvate.ca/

Geophrum

just another tid bit of info... if you do do the back brakes.... they are threded not pisten driven like the front... damn me for not researching that first.. destroyed a c clamp but calipers are fine and not damaged by my stupidity

PedalKick

To test if the rear rotors are giving symptoms of warpage, just apply the e-brake while driving. If you feel pulsing then the rears are warped. If not, then it'e just the fronts.

Tapio

Kick ***. Good idea with the ebrake idea..ill try it on the way home.

Thanks for all the help guys

Tapio

Can someone give me the torque settings for any bolts I'll be removing tomorrow to replace my Front Rotors on a 98 I30 (Same as max I assume). As far as I can tell I wont need any clamps or anything when doing the front, right?