Going to the dealer today I need feedback/opinions ASAP. Please take a look....
Going to the dealer today I need feedback/opinions ASAP. Please take a look....
Please read and enlighten me on my last post. Thanks!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=213464
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=213464
I don't know why people still do the battery disconnect thing. You are literally removing the voltage conditioner that is protecting your 20,000 dollar car from ceasing to operate. If you don’t believe me, wait until a good voltage spike knocks out your ECU and starts your harness on fire.
Think of it this way... take all of your fuses out and replace them with wires. Do you feel comfortable? Everything still works right?
All you need is a voltmeter, that is it... it doesn't even have the potential to screw up your car (unless it was used in ways that I can't even come up with currently).
Check the voltage at the battery with the car off: ~12V = Battery Good
Check the voltage at the battery with the car on: ~14V = Alternator Good
The battery test is unreliable as well and will only tell you if your alternator is not REALLY bad. It only takes 12Vs to operate your car and if that is all your alternator is pumping out then it is still bad.
If your car worked fine for two days with a new battery... then your battery is not receiving a good charge. I would bet your alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired/rebuilt (if you feel comfortable doing so, and if it is possible on Maxs)
Think of it this way... take all of your fuses out and replace them with wires. Do you feel comfortable? Everything still works right?
All you need is a voltmeter, that is it... it doesn't even have the potential to screw up your car (unless it was used in ways that I can't even come up with currently).
Check the voltage at the battery with the car off: ~12V = Battery Good
Check the voltage at the battery with the car on: ~14V = Alternator Good
The battery test is unreliable as well and will only tell you if your alternator is not REALLY bad. It only takes 12Vs to operate your car and if that is all your alternator is pumping out then it is still bad.
If your car worked fine for two days with a new battery... then your battery is not receiving a good charge. I would bet your alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired/rebuilt (if you feel comfortable doing so, and if it is possible on Maxs)
Originally posted by Entropy
I don't know why people still do the battery disconnect thing. You are literally removing the voltage conditioner that is protecting your 20,000 dollar car from ceasing to operate. If you don’t believe me, wait until a good voltage spike knocks out your ECU and starts your harness on fire.
Think of it this way... take all of your fuses out and replace them with wires. Do you feel comfortable? Everything still works right?
All you need is a voltmeter, that is it... it doesn't even have the potential to screw up your car (unless it was used in ways that I can't even come up with currently).
Check the voltage at the battery with the car off: ~12V = Battery Good
Check the voltage at the battery with the car on: ~14V = Alternator Good
The battery test is unreliable as well and will only tell you if your alternator is not REALLY bad. It only takes 12Vs to operate your car and if that is all your alternator is pumping out then it is still bad.
If your car worked fine for two days with a new battery... then your battery is not receiving a good charge. I would bet your alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired/rebuilt (if you feel comfortable doing so, and if it is possible on Maxs)
I don't know why people still do the battery disconnect thing. You are literally removing the voltage conditioner that is protecting your 20,000 dollar car from ceasing to operate. If you don’t believe me, wait until a good voltage spike knocks out your ECU and starts your harness on fire.
Think of it this way... take all of your fuses out and replace them with wires. Do you feel comfortable? Everything still works right?
All you need is a voltmeter, that is it... it doesn't even have the potential to screw up your car (unless it was used in ways that I can't even come up with currently).
Check the voltage at the battery with the car off: ~12V = Battery Good
Check the voltage at the battery with the car on: ~14V = Alternator Good
The battery test is unreliable as well and will only tell you if your alternator is not REALLY bad. It only takes 12Vs to operate your car and if that is all your alternator is pumping out then it is still bad.
If your car worked fine for two days with a new battery... then your battery is not receiving a good charge. I would bet your alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired/rebuilt (if you feel comfortable doing so, and if it is possible on Maxs)
To make matters worse some here (in Las Vegas) told me the Optima batteries don't last because of the 110+ degree weather! Damn it. Okay I'll check with a voltmeter. If all is well it MUST be a bad connection. I don't even know where to start looking. Ugh...
Here are the results from the charge/start system diagnostics test.
Battery voltage (volts): 4
Voltage drop accross terminals (volts): 9
Starter amp draw (amps): 12
Voltage supply to back of alternator: 14
According to this, is my alternator A, Okay?
Battery voltage (volts): 4
Voltage drop accross terminals (volts): 9
Starter amp draw (amps): 12
Voltage supply to back of alternator: 14
According to this, is my alternator A, Okay?
Originally posted by Chino
BluFlame told me to do it! To make matters worse some here (in Las Vegas) told me the Optima batteries don't last because of the 110+ degree weather! Damn it. Okay I'll check with a voltmeter. If all is well it MUST be a bad connection. I don't even know where to start looking. Ugh...
BluFlame told me to do it!
To make matters worse some here (in Las Vegas) told me the Optima batteries don't last because of the 110+ degree weather! Damn it. Okay I'll check with a voltmeter. If all is well it MUST be a bad connection. I don't even know where to start looking. Ugh...
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1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
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Jun 13, 2016 09:26 PM