skeelo34

iTrader: (4)

I still seem to get code 01 01 (camshaft position sensor) and 04 07 (crankshaft position sensor REF). I totally don't get it. I've replaced all of these sensors (both crankshaft sensors), and checked them with my ohmmeter and they all seemed fine, including the old ones. I'm tired of throwing money away at sensors that I don't need. My car has only 56k, fairly new battery, and fuel filter recently changed. If anyone needs one of these sensors, I'll sell them.

My car has a hard time starting, like it catches not on the first try, and sometimes stalls as soon as it starts unless i give it gas for a few seconds. Sometimes it backfires?, makes a loud knock, kind of like a misfire or some sort of detonation in the engine. It doesn't really matter if it's cold or warm outside. It's really annoying the crap out of me. I changed the coolant temperature sensor this winter. My plugs are ngk platinums for the past ~25k? (changed about 2 years ago). I ran a test at autozone, and they came up with misfire in cylinder 3? and camshaft position sensor. I've replaced the latter. Would a misfire cause hard starting? How would I go about fixing it? The search function crashes. Also, I have the FSM if anyone cares to suggest what to look at.

Thanks.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

what kind of crank pulley do you have? maybe that needs to be changed.

skeelo34

iTrader: (4)

Stock. I don't quite follow why that would be a problem?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Maybe something is messup in the wireing. CHeck for any shorts or breaks in the wire.

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

If cylinder 3 is misfiring, swap the coil pack from cylinder 3 with the coil pack in cylinder 1. Reset the ECU and see if the misfire moves to cylinder 1. If it does, then the coil pack is bad. If it still misfires at cylinder 3, then it's probably the fuel injector (check the plug also).

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.
Note - Ohm meter to test coils is not the most reliable way. Some peoples’ coils tested perfectly, but they still misfired.

skeelo34

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to test the injectors and coil packs.
The problem is that I don't get the misfire code. The guy at autozone got it with the scan tool. It doesn't come up with the blinking cel method.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Maybe a long shot but check the engine ground. It often gets rusted out badly. A lot of sensors are single lead and depend on a good engine ground.

Jatan

iTrader: (3)

Have AutoZone recheck it after you switch the coil packs to see if the code moves to a different cylinder