I have decided that i am getting Nitrous in about 3 months once i get the money. I want a good dry kit with about 60 shot capability. Bottle heater and window swtich. What kit should i get?? I also want to get some pillar gauges, how much are they, which ones should i get. Also i have an Auto, should i get the VB mod first or will it be ok to run it for a while, 3-4 months at most, and then get it. I need boost now. Help me assemble a good kit please. Any other suggestions will be appreciated.
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Volcano Vaporizer

 

I knew there was something i was missing and now i remember, a tranny cooler. what one should i get and ect, how much?
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OG KUSH SEEDS

 

If you get any good info/advice/tip, let me know. Like I said in my other post, I'm going the route as you are. I'm going like this: get darn tranny cooler install, Don's VB mod, and then NOS. I know a member here who I can just call up if I want to know anything(and I mean anything) about NOS. Matt, are you game?

 

Sure call me thats 1(900)GONITRO, LMFAO!!!

Sure Micheal ya know I'd love to help ya!

DMB, I use the Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) EFI kit.

 

Hey MardiGras.. I know a lot of you use the NOS kits. But I'm still thinking about the ZEX kit. Looks so much easier to install. How much do you think your whole NOS setup costed you? Including plugs, pump, gauges.. If you have time. Price breakdown please?

ZuM

 

Well cost for all parts ~$1150 That includes...

NOS Kit
Bottle Heater
Window Switch
Fuel Pump
Gauge pod
APEXi Electronic EGT
Autometer FP
Plugs
And Misc parts

Time, I dunno because I dont have allot if free time so I work on it when I can. To install just the NOS kit would be ~5hrs if you are a decent DIY'r. But then you need to tune it... You should do the same with the ZEX, tune it, check the plugs etc...

Just rember you cant go any higher than 70hp with the ZEX. I have moved up to 100hp with the NOS dry kit. If you stay at ~50hp with the NOS kit all you should need to spend is the $550 for the basic kit. And remember to get either set up to safely do above 50hp you will need to upgrade the fuel pump.

 

i've installed a zex kit before, and man, that took a lot less time then my NOS kit. you don't have to connect all the selonoids and wire them - it's all in that purple box. it's easier to install, but the NOS kit is alot more... flexible, i suppose.

 

to start with a 50 shot and maybe work up to a 90 ish shot which kit would be the best to get, i will prolly get it installed somewhere, i am capable but don't trust myself. Also what gauges should i get for my pillars and how much is a 255l/hf fuel pump?
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OG KUSH SEEDS

 

NOS kit 5122, 5123, 5124 or 5120. they're all the same kit, they just come with different jets. 5124 and 5120 start you off with a 70 shot(.036 jet), 5122 gives you 50 shot jet(.032), and 5123 gives you a 60 shot jet(.034). just depends what jet you want to start off with. additional jets are $4 - $5 a piece. i got my fuel pump for $100 plus tax from a local guy. guages: fuel pressure and either exhaust temp or A/F.

 

I'm gettin my NOS kit as soon as this check of mine comes in. Whenever that is!

THis is the kit I'm getting. Anyone use it before? Its from JC Whitney and it appears to be the NOS kit. On special right now for $375 shipped if you have hte special code numbers. It is part#47wn2927x This kit is good for 40-60 shot. I'm going 60 shot but im gunna use a colder set of plugs (From NA 300z). See how that works.

How hard is it to install all the wires and whatnot? How did you run the braided wire under the car?

 

not too hard, just takes time. i ran the line right next to the fuel lines and zip tied them. you'll have to find a hole from the trunk where your line will exit, or drill a new hole.

 

Thomas-

I have 3-4 gromets on each side of teh trunk so that wont be a prob of finding a hole. Which side is your tank mounted on? Also, can you tell me what procedures you do when you use your NOS? Say you bottle is turned on already and your looking for a street race. What do u do from there?

 

why such a demand for nitrous?

did someone get beat by a turbo civic or integ?
j/k

 

I just need the extra boost, plus i want to start street racing at the "spot" around where i live and right now my semi-stock autobox will beat most cars around town but not any that are there. I think i will start will a 50 shot kit and then get the fuel pump and go to around 100 shot. I NEED BOOST!!!!
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Alegrya

 

my primary bottle is mounted on the driver's side because the fuel lines are on the driver's side. so i just ran it along those lines. as for procedures, if the bottle is open and the arming switch is on, you just have to floor it and the full throttle switch will turn on and engage the nitrous flow. it's basically all automatic with the exception of you having to flip the arming switch and you having to floor the car to trigger the full throttle switch. if you have a window switch, it'll turn on whenever you reach your set rpm while you are flooring it. once you get everything hooked up, you'll understand how everything works. it's pretty logical after you set it up.

 

I don't think I would be running more than 50-60 shot of NOS. I have an auto. Anything more would kill my car.. =P So I guess ZEX would be the way to go. Okay, if I just wanted to stay around 50hp.. What will I need. I can probably get by with just plugs, EGT and FP Meter right? I can get the bottle heater and window switch later. Probably don't need window switch but want one just incase.

ZuM

 

You could probably just get the kit. 50hp is not that much. The colder plugs may be needed but wait until you try the system for a little bit. If the plugs dont show signs of detination then save your money. The gauges would be nice but should not be needed for 50hp. However if you have the money they are usefull and look cool too! Basically at 50hp level you can just check your plugs and use their condition to help you tune. If you live where its cold,I would recomend the bottle heater as an initial purchase. Because if you tune the system when the temperature is 50F it will run lean when it is 75f. The bottle heater will maintain consistant temp and pressure. I live in New Orleans so I only need the heater some times. On days when its way hot outside I have to put a wet chamios cloth on the bottle to cool it down. Consistant bottle pressure is crucial for consistant performance.

 

so what the best system out there for a system under 50 shot??

 

I live in NY. So the temp will go from 100-20 or less.. So I guess I'll need the heater. I'm not too crazy about getting gauges just because I don't want people looking into my car when its parked in the street. But I think I will need them though. I don't want my engine blowing up. Whats a good preventive measure? Maybe FPR or something? Something so I wouldnt have to worry too much about leaning out.

ZuM

 

Wicked...
I use the NOS dry kit, I have never used anything else. I am very comfortable with NOS's equipment. I havent had any problems that I couldnt blame on myself. The NOS system is a bit more complicated to install. ZEX and others may be good systems, but I go with what I know.

Does any one know if the ZEX system comes with a fuel pressure safty switch? If it dosent I would not recomend using it unless you add one to it. The NOS kit comes with one. The FPSS prevents the system from engaging until the fuel pressure has risen to the right level.

Zum...
If you take your time and tune and check you plugs the gauges arent necessary. If they make you feel more comfortable than get them. An FPR or fuel pump upgrade should not be necessary with under a 50hp shot. IMHO it would be hard to blow a VQ with under a 50hp shot.

 

my air/fuel gauge from autometer cost 55 buck. EGT cost 100 bucks. Got both of them from dynamic motorsport in Irvine. Go the dual gauge pod from summit racing. Cost of the pod is 20 bucks.

 

Thanks for the info Mardigras. The ZEX kit comes with 3 jets I think. 45,65,75? Something like that. 45 is probably enough for me. But if I decide to go with the 65 jet. FPR a good idea? When you say check plugs. How often? I should go with the colder plugs even though I'd be running 45-65 shot? How will colder plugs affect performance off the bottle? With the ZEX kit. Do you think I can still add a window switch? I sometimes shift the car manually and I would hate to bump the rev limiter while on the juice.

Automatic NOS users:
How do you run your nitrous while racing? Shift, leave in D? Any advice?

ZuM

 

If you go above 50hp you may need a fuel pump upgrade. You can tell if you need a pump upgrade by watching your fuel pressure whan the nitrous is engaged. If it goes up to the correct level for a split second then falls off as the RPM's rise yor fuel pump is weak and cant maintain the needed pressure. This is where having the fuel pressure gauge comes in handy.

Checking plugs...
When you first install the kit you want to install a new set of plugs. Make your first pass on the nitrous and imediatly cut the motor off and coast to a spot you can pull a plug or two out. If you dont cut the motor off you will be looking at the normal plugs not the nitrous'd plugs.

Look for small silver specs in the white ceramic insulator on the plug, this is would be how to tell if your motor is detonating. If it is cloder plugs may help, or a little more fuel, or a little less nitrous. You will some times see brown or black specs. Some say these are fuel or carbon deposits. I dont like to see any specs at all. Perfect nitrous'd plugs will have a light tan area in the direction of the combustion chambers flame path.

You also need to look at the ground strap on the plug, check to see if it has turned a bluish greenish anodized color. If will start at the tip and work down to the threaded area of the plug. If the bluish area goes any further than where the strap is bent you are running too lean and need to add more fuel or use less nitrous. Keep in mind that variations in bottle pressure will effect this.

Perfect nitrous'd plugs will have a light tan coating on the white ceramic insulator in the direction of the combustion chambers flame path and a little bluing on the ground strap.

One step colder plugs off the bottle wont hurt. But you can check them to see if the plugs start to foul.

I'm sure you can wire up a window switch into the ZEX system.

Be sure the ZEX system has a fuel pressure saftey switch!

 

I e-mailed ZEX about the safety switch. Still waiting for a reply. The smallest jet the kit comes with seems to be 55 shot. That would be borderline for the pump right? How much is a new fuel pump? If I upgraded the fuel pump and ran 55 shot. I wouldn't need he fuel pressure gauge right? How much is a new fuel pump and how hard is it to install?

Thanks for answering my questions. I'm sure its educational for the rest of us who want nitrous too. =)

ZuM

 

I cant say for sure if you will need the pump or not. But it is a good investment in saftey. Cost is ~$125. The install is easy, but you will smell like gas for a few days.

As far as the fuel pressure is concerned let me elaborate.

Both the NOS and ZEX systems increase the fuel pressure by applying positive air pressure to the vacume port of the fuel pressure regulator. This forces the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator to close and makes the fuel pressure rise. The more air pressure the more the diaphram closes the more the fuel pressure goes up. Adjusting how much air pressure is sent to the fuel pressure regulator vacume port is how you tune the system to the propper A/F ratio. On the NOS system you simply change a "bypass" jet. I dont know how the zex does it but their would have to be a way.

Where you get caught in a trap is at a 55hp shot you need, say 55psi of fuel pressure, and the system is working fine. Now you put the 65hp jet in and now you need, say 65psi of fuel pressure. Well if you have a weak pump it may be able to get up to 65psi for a second but it will fall back to the max its capable of sustaining, say 60psi. In a second gear run on the nitrous the plugs may look marginal because the fuel pressure was up to 65psi for most of the time it took to wind up second gear. Now if you try it in third you will lean out because it takes longer to wind up third. Your plugs will now show lean and perhaps some light detonation. So you say WTF? The only way to tell if your fuel pressure is fading is with a fuel pressure gauge, or a properly adjusted fuel pressure saftety switch (FPSS). (Note; that the fuel pressure numbers qouted above are examples and not actual pressures needed for a given nitrous horse power shot)

With the FPSS set at 65psi the system would fire for a split second, the fuel pressure would fall and the FPSS would cut the system off, and the pressure would rise up again and then it would fire for a split second again. You would fell a surging effect. But you would know somthing was wrong. Ultimatly you would need a fuel pressure gauge to see what the problem was.

Zex claims to be easy to use. What they have over the NOS kit is everything in the ZEX is in one box and they have a neat voltage based throttle position sensor. Not a big deal. I would say that IMHO its easy to do the initial install of the ZEX, but just as time consuming to tune it properly as the NOS kit. NOS is a little less expensive too.

 

Mardi- where can i get the fuel pump that cheap? This is the Walbro your talking about right? What do you use to adjust the a/f mixture? Or did you just let the ECU figure that out for itself?

 

Try www.forcedperformance.net for the pump.

I changed the bypass jet in the nitrous system to change the fuel preasure level for.

The high power pump did over power the stock fuel pressure regulator. Normal WOT fuel pressure is ~43psi, after the pump install I was seeing ~53psi. I installed an adjustable FPR to control the pressure and it works like a charm. SXR7 has installed the pump and not seen more than a ~5psi increase, and has not noticed a decrease in normal performance. I wanted to keep the pressure in spec, because the ECU will not relearn for WOT, it will only learn for apart throttle for emissions controls. WOT engine maps are a hard program in the ECU.