i've been looking this up for a while now i've heard many many different things on this the one thing that keeps getting me is if the new brake pads don't addmit gasses why do we still have break fade and why dose my breaks get this rust looking substance on them

 

Brake fade is usually caused by overdriving the pads when they're beyond their normal heatzone. Friction types abrasive cold vs adherent hot. The rust looking substance is rust on your iron rotor. Slotted vs drilled has been debated to death. The July issue of Sportscar magazine did a 6 page story on brake technology for all your answers.

 

I think the slotted cross drilled roters look the best

 

Thank you for letting me know i tend to drive my car fast and sometimes have to stop hard and my brakes fade <not anti-lock> something horrable i was just trying to find a good way to stop my car better Thank you again

 

I have cross drilled/slotted rotors, and yes they look the best in my opinion. Everyone says that they crack but mine have been good to me. The car does stop better.

 

Best braking performance overall is a high quality (aka Brembo, Porterfield, Willwood,etc) vented, balanced, cryo treated, plain blank rotor. Match that with the appropriate pad for the given driving conditions and car setup. In other words don't expect a race compound pad to work worth a damn on your daily driver. Or a drilled rotor to last as long as your oem blank, they will eventually crack. If you find this hard to believe, spend a day at your local track, road not drag, and see what the SCCA club racers are running.

That said, I run slotted on my car. I like the look and there is some benefit from the slot cleaning the pad.

Cheers!

 

Just ran across this from PowerSlots page.
Never even thought about actual surface area contacting the pad.

 

Both are noisy. Stillen cross-drilled are very good, but make noise under 30MPH. Sounds like a 4WD truck with knobby tires on it. Brembo slotted are much worse. Extremely noisy. I bought those thinking they would be quiet and they are extremely loud. I took them off within 50 miles. They are an absolute joke and Brembo should be embarrassed to sell them. I will sell you either the used Stillens (with several 10s of thousands of miles on them) or the Brembo slotted with less than 50 miles on them cheap if you are interested in either. I'm running on blanks due to the noise factor. If you buy new, find a high quality blank and don't worry about the looks. Put on Porterfield brakes (mention the .org discount) and you will be happy.

 

Ditto on the Porterfield R4S. Or even Hawk HPS, for daily drivers.

I'm curious about your noisy slotted discs. When I installed mine I had the slot facing the front of the car "\" . When I rolled out of the driveway on my way to give them a good bedding session they were very noisy, lots of chatter etc. After the bedding in they were relatively quiet but still there was a slight noise under light braking and a terrible "Thump, thump, thump" under heavy braking. But did they ever haul the car down fast.
I ended up switching rotors and pads from right to left, orienting the slot toward the rear of the car this time "/". Thump, thump thumpity thump is all but a memory. Light or heavy braking, doesnt matter. No noise.
If you still have your slots, try em this way and see if that doesnt solve your problem.

Now if I can just figure out what is causing the brakes to groan and belch when letting off the pedal after a stop. I think it may be I need new caliper kits (guides and shims) or its just a side effect of the steel lines not flexing and the calipers are. Thoughts anyone???

 

I read in SCC, or some other mag, that most brake upgrades do not decrease 60-0 etc and the only reason people think these upgrades help is because the brake is just more sensitive. I'll try to find the article...

 

they do look good though

 

cross-drilled = for show
slotted = performance

get brembo or powerslot

 

thank you for all the info i know the slotted or crossdrilled don't really decrease the 60-0 but what about 100-0 or even the 120-60

 

Good feedback. I may just try flipping the rotors based on your suggestion. I tried breaking in the Brembo slotted rotors for about 50 miles and couldn't stand the noise. They were so noisy that I'd be embarrassed to have someone riding in the car hear the noise. Sounds like you may need to rebuild the calipers and get new anti-rattle gear from Nissan.

 

slot only .

 

Another thing and im not the only one... with cross drilled and slotted rotors, they make a weird sound at time.

 

crossed drill brembo for front and stillen crossed drill for rear with matching semi-metallic pads, thats what i havem great braking power.

 

crossed drill brembo for front and stillen crossed drill for rear with matching semi-metallic pads, thats what i havem great braking power.

 

crossed drill brembo for front and stillen crossed drill for rear with matching semi-metallic pads, thats what i have great braking power.

 

I'm using stillen cross-drilled and i have noise during light braking. Can i use a different pad to help with this? If so what brand?

 

hey quick quick question, when installing slotted rotors which way should they go?

 

I have been using Powerslot slotted rotors paired up with Hawk HPS pads for a while now. I am very happy with the perfomance. In the back I have OEM braking components. I have yet to encounter brake fade with this setup. I do not auto-x or go to the track, but do some spirited driving when the conditions are right.

I recommend this combo, especially since it costs about the same as the OEM components.

 

IMHO. Neither.

I don't you you would drive hard enough to see the benefits of either the slotted or drilled. But you would see all the downsides of them.

Slotted will make your pads wear a bit faster. But no biggie I guess

Drilled. Will reduce the mass of the rotor. That will limit how much heat the rotor can absorb/dissipate. If it sees too much heat, the rotor will warp. Also you cannot get drilled rotors turned. That will reduce the mass even more and make warping an even bigger possibility.

Just get a good set of quality brembo blanks. If you want some bling, get some slotted rotors.

 

Man Jeff that is an insane # of posts that you have. My fingers hurt just by looking at 16,315 .

 

Flaming people takes alot of posts.

 

stated from Brembo

"easiest way to verify correct usage is to install the rotors on the side of the vehicle that results in the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the rotor always contacting the brake pads first."

basically they say the slots are pointing \ <---towards the front of the car

 

Call me rice or whatever...but I prefer for crossdrilled.

but basically it's really up to you.

 

This was what I thought, but when I got my Poweslot rotors it stated the opposite. The Powerslot rotors are labeled L (left) or R (right), the instruction sheet states that the L refers to the driver's side. In doing this the part of the slotted rotor that contacts the pad first is the inner most part of the slot (so the slots point / <---towards the front of the car). I even took of my rims off a couple of times to double check that the L was on the driver's side, but now you've got me wondering again .

This is the rotor that the instruction said to put on the driver's side: