Is my dealer trying to gouge me?
Is my dealer trying to gouge me?
I took my '97 to the dealer as it was pinging and the check engine light was on.
I've always done most of my own work, but I've got a lot going on these days and decided just to let the dealer do it.
He called to say it showed codes for a bad 02 sensor and a bad knock sensor. The price to replace these would be just over $1,000, and it would take him a few days to get the parts.
I picked up the car in the meantime. Looking around here, it doesn't seem like it should anywhere near $1,000 to do this job.
Am I missing something?
I've always done most of my own work, but I've got a lot going on these days and decided just to let the dealer do it.
He called to say it showed codes for a bad 02 sensor and a bad knock sensor. The price to replace these would be just over $1,000, and it would take him a few days to get the parts.
I picked up the car in the meantime. Looking around here, it doesn't seem like it should anywhere near $1,000 to do this job.
Am I missing something?
They are charging you that much because they factor in the time to take off the Upper and lower intake manifolds to replace the knock sensor, when in fact you can replace it through the side if you have small enough hands. Purchase the $250 worth of parts and do all that your self
-matt
-matt
Not sure why your car is pinging if the knock sensor is bad. When your sensor is bad, your ECU automatically retards the ignition, to PREVENT pinging. The O2 sensor (if it's the rear one) can be left like that, since it's just a monitor for the CAT & doesn't affect performance. Mine has been intermittently tripping the cell for that past 3yrs, sometimes it just stays off for 6months 
Your dealer is trying to use you to put his kids through college

Your dealer is trying to use you to put his kids through college
you could get a knock sensor and an o2 sensor(depending on whether its front or rear) for less than 200 shipped.
Knock sensor is easy enough to change if you dont mind a few drops of blood in your engine bay
and i think o2 sensor you just unscrew and unplug.
Knock sensor is easy enough to change if you dont mind a few drops of blood in your engine bay
and i think o2 sensor you just unscrew and unplug.
knock sensor = 72 bux offa ebay + cheap shipping
02 sensor = 50 - 100 offa ebay or the org. + cheap shipping
Dealership = tryina to buy those new rims he ssaw inna magazine....with your money.
02 sensor = 50 - 100 offa ebay or the org. + cheap shipping
Dealership = tryina to buy those new rims he ssaw inna magazine....with your money.
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You more then likely don't even need the knock sensor.
The KS code usually always comes as a ghost code with emissions related error codes. Replace the O2, clear the error codes and see if the KS comes back. (I doubt it will) If it does, replace the KS as well.
Your local auto parts store will have O2's for your car for around 75 bucks.
Depending where it's located on your exhaust system, install takes about 1/2 hour. Make sure you get an OEM type that comes with the wiring harness and correct plug for your cars harness. It's just plug and play that way.
The KS code usually always comes as a ghost code with emissions related error codes. Replace the O2, clear the error codes and see if the KS comes back. (I doubt it will) If it does, replace the KS as well.
Your local auto parts store will have O2's for your car for around 75 bucks.
Depending where it's located on your exhaust system, install takes about 1/2 hour. Make sure you get an OEM type that comes with the wiring harness and correct plug for your cars harness. It's just plug and play that way.
Originally Posted by Maxima880
I just bought a Genuine Nissan for $103. It's stamped Bosch.
Interestingly, I called two other parts stores first, and they didn't have it in stock.
Thanks again, all. Hopefully I won't have to do the knock sensor, too. It doesn't look like fun, but I can see how it can be done without pulling the manifold. I'm surprised there isn't a special wrench for reaching in there. Kind of like how there used to be a special wrench for reaching the distributor lock bolt on a GM engine. Guess the knock sensors just don't go out that often.
I've seen a Snap-on ratchet with a long, upward curving handle with a flexible joint at the head that ought to be perfect for this.
Ahhh, here it is.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
You more then likely don't even need the knock sensor.
The KS code usually always comes as a ghost code with emissions related error codes. Replace the O2, clear the error codes and see if the KS comes back. (I doubt it will) If it does, replace the KS as well.
Your local auto parts store will have O2's for your car for around 75 bucks.
Depending where it's located on your exhaust system, install takes about 1/2 hour. Make sure you get an OEM type that comes with the wiring harness and correct plug for your cars harness. It's just plug and play that way.
The KS code usually always comes as a ghost code with emissions related error codes. Replace the O2, clear the error codes and see if the KS comes back. (I doubt it will) If it does, replace the KS as well.
Your local auto parts store will have O2's for your car for around 75 bucks.
Depending where it's located on your exhaust system, install takes about 1/2 hour. Make sure you get an OEM type that comes with the wiring harness and correct plug for your cars harness. It's just plug and play that way.
The o2 will continually trip the HS...besides, crawling under the car and replacing the rear o2 is work enough...haha.
You can save your money for the KS, replace it yourself. Use a long rachet extension + u-joint. There was a good how-to on this method but the link no longer works. There's another how-to in motorvate.ca , the method is a bit different and a painful one.
For the O2 sensors, shop around first, there are shops that would do it for a lot less. No need to let the dealer
you.
For the O2 sensors, shop around first, there are shops that would do it for a lot less. No need to let the dealer
you.
I just replaced my sister's O2 sensor for the rear manifold and a coil pack, took me about 30 min to do everything (including the time to jack up the front end of the car) I got the O2 for $75 and one coil pack for $100, wasn't bad from the dealer. They know my face now so they give me discounts. I'm happy with my dealers and their parts department. Oh and I got a free brandnew hub cap for my mom's 98 altima.
Just do it yourself. Very easy. If you have the tools and time.
Just do it yourself. Very easy. If you have the tools and time.
Don't ever trust the stealership for routine BS stuff like a KS. I had my car at a dealer near my work, to check on the engine. The noticed my brakes were worn and only wanted 1050.00 to replace my pads and rotors. It's a wonder they stay in business doing work at such great prices. All about the customer I guess
The knock sensor won't trigger the CEL. It is a ghost code. It will effect the performance by retarding the timeing to prevent engine knock. Do you have a standard emission or 50 state,( California )? It is easyer to change the standard than the 50 state.
what a joke..i worked at a Nissan Dealership parts countere for almost 2 years and always had O2 sensors and knock sensors in stock. Its a basic stock order that dealerships always do. If you have a long magnetic stick you can change out the knock sensor in 20 minutes and thats if your an absolute spaz. I watched my mechanic do it at the dealership and he did it is 2 minutes thats no lie. Now thats a 2 hour job that he gets paid for and he did it in two minutes. and the O2 sensor is a joke..they are charging way too much..pay for the parts and do it yourself. Good luck
Originally Posted by Coochie Coach
The local Kragen had a Bosch 02 sensor for $90. Clipped right in.
Interestingly, I called two other parts stores first, and they didn't have it in stock.
Thanks again, all. Hopefully I won't have to do the knock sensor, too. It doesn't look like fun, but I can see how it can be done without pulling the manifold. I'm surprised there isn't a special wrench for reaching in there. Kind of like how there used to be a special wrench for reaching the distributor lock bolt on a GM engine. Guess the knock sensors just don't go out that often.
I've seen a Snap-on ratchet with a long, upward curving handle with a flexible joint at the head that ought to be perfect for this.
Ahhh, here it is.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Interestingly, I called two other parts stores first, and they didn't have it in stock.
Thanks again, all. Hopefully I won't have to do the knock sensor, too. It doesn't look like fun, but I can see how it can be done without pulling the manifold. I'm surprised there isn't a special wrench for reaching in there. Kind of like how there used to be a special wrench for reaching the distributor lock bolt on a GM engine. Guess the knock sensors just don't go out that often.
I've seen a Snap-on ratchet with a long, upward curving handle with a flexible joint at the head that ought to be perfect for this.
Ahhh, here it is.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
I did it with a 12inch extension a u-joint,12 mm socket and rachet. Use the money you save by not letting the dealer rip you off and buy you some tools
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