So I did my front brakes a few months ago and all seems well, but lately I noticed the rear (right) having a bad smell. It's not the typical brake smell, so I smelt all 4 wheels and isolated the rear (right). I was worried cuz it's dangerous (duh). So now I am doing an emergency change.

I suspect it could be related to my e-brake? Anyhow the pads look fine, and the rotors okay, but I'm going to change it. I still dunno what the smell is coming from though.

I will snap some pictures, maybe you guys can help. I'm not sure which way to UNTURN the caliper? I didn't wanna force it, so I decide to ask.

Was my caliper siezed? or my ebrake is locking or whatever? What is exactly wrong with that wierd burning smell?

*i suppose i bed them the same way right?

Please help . Thank you.

BTW: i recieved 4 shims ( 2 small ones and 2 bigger ones) i dont know if i am doing it right as the shims on the current pads look diff't im using OEM SHIMS. anyways i think shims should be behind each of the 4 pads however on one of them, it looks wierd.





^ the last one seems more sense but if i do so, the other pad won't have enough ??!

 

if something was seized then the burning smell would be some type of friction, like the pad stuck on the rotor.

I recommend taking everything apart and examining. The caliper to retract the piston would be screwing it in clockwise. Look at your pads, look at the rotor (both sides), check for metal shaving, etc.

If needed smell all the parts, the culprit would still have the smell.

Look at your tire(s) too.

 

one of my rear calipers were seized.

 

by siezed what do u mean?

im trying to turn it in now as we speak. i smelt everything and i didn't find anything wierd. pads were even, and plenty life, rotor was a little chewed in compared to the new one, but other than that i really dunno.

ill try install and finish up and post some pics.

thanks.

 

do u guys use the long nose? cuz i can't get a grip at all.

 

I rented a tool from autozone, specifically for retracting the rear piston.

 

your first two pics are right. the third is wrong. the first pic goes on the piston side. however, it looks like your pads already have some sort of pseudo shim built right on them. where did you get your shims? did you say the shims in the photo are OEM? what brand pads are you using then?

also, check for excessive heat on the wheel you think is sticking/burning. touch the caliper/rotor/pad through the wheel spokes after a short drive. compare it to the others. if it is sticking it will be much hotter. the sticking could be due to caliper corrosion. if you never changed your brake fluid then this is the likely culprit.

 

the pads are pbr/axiss and shims are oem. ill use the copper glue thingy that came w/ the pack (OEM)

i'm just worried about the brakes. i'm pretty sure it was bled b4. but what can i do now? how can i make sure the calipers are not siezed?

im gonna finish it up thanks.

how about this pic?

 

when you get it back together, before you put the wheel on, spin the rotor by hand (gripping the wheel lugs). it should move freely with a very little drag. while you spin it with one hand, pull/push on the ebrake lever on the back side of the caliper with your other hand. that will stop it from spinnng. release the ebrake lever. you should now be able to spin the rotor again. [during all this you should have the ebrake lever inside the car released]. if there is excessive drag after you release the ebrake, or if you cannot get the ebrake to lever on the caliper to move, then you might have a sticky caliper.

it doesn't look too bad from the photo above. but its hard to tell without taking the piston out or pulling back the rubber seal.

 

ur saying i should put hand brake down (for all testing)?

ill test it out now.

 

I finished it up and I tested the brakes. I have an auto. Well anyway I was driving and I put it in N and let it roll. I used the EBRAKE (pulled it up) and the car didn't roll back. I let it go and the car rolled again. (all this was done after some driving)

I'm pretty sure the caliper didn't freeze or lock up. But it took a while for the rear to grip. I hope over time it'll seed in and I'll test it again. I remember the ebrake locked the car up from rolling pretty quick. I also just bleed that one corner.

I'll proceed to do the other rear and bleed the car and monitor my brake fluid and etc.

Thanks.

 

... chances are, your ebrake cable for that side was seized up and causing the caliper to be locked. common problem... poor ebrake routing design.