MrEG62U

yeah it was warmed up. so i should replace the egr valve first? if so who would be the cheapest? or does anybody here have one for sale

BigTDogg

Any thoughts on this? I'm trying to verify what I'm encountering is a frozen caliper before I just go buy one.. I would make a new post, but I'd rather keep the clutter down and just bump this. Please and thank you..

-T

iDuty

MrEG62U wrote: yeah it was warmed up. so i should replace the egr valve first? if so who would be the cheapest? or does anybody here have one for sale

Any error codes stored? MIL (check engine) light on? High NO sounds like an EGR issue but it is more likely the upper EGR tube clogged than a bad EGR valve.

tym2ride

Hi can you please make a topic on this. I am getting ready to trade in my 95 se automatic and the odometer/tripometer just stopped working. I know if I try and trade it this way they will give me nothing for the car. I just need some info about how the odometer works. Cable or electronic and is there a sensor maybe. Also if I buy a used one is there a way to run the miles up to match mine. Maybe someone else has had the same problem and they know how to fix it.
Thanks Alot!

MrEG62U

thanks ill take a look at it tonight, there was a check engine light but then it went off a couple days ago and hasnt come back

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

The MEVI does have a cover though, yes it is another manifold but in can be run with or without the cover. The cover can be purchased seperatly, Ionicdynamics also makes one in Carbon Fiber.
I have seen a member here use the MEVI cover on his USDM manifold. His name was Redmax95.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The 95-97s have a sensor that engages a gear on the differential. It's down on the top side of the diff near the fuel filter; remove the intake to make it reachable. You *might* have a damaged sensor - one time mine actually broke apart inside the diff.

The more common failure point is the cluster connections or solder points on the cluster circuit board. I suggest you take out the cluster, work each connector a few times, and look for any obviously damaged stuff.

In case you need to buy a new cluster, at least in PA there are shops that can legitimately roll the odometer if you provide reasonable documentation and the odometer has not been broken for long. I called around and found a local shop that would roll a used cluster to match, provided they got the broken one in exchange (so that I couldn't do fraudulent stuff with it). You should not be forced to pay the insane cost ($600?) of a brand new OEM cluster and dealer labor to roll it to the current mileage. Too many people have been pushed into that because they didn't know any alternative.

FWIW, I still have a good cluster in the SE style with 130k on it if you need one. I didn't need it since the problem turned out to be the broken sensor.

Dave

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the clarification Flava. I always thought the cover bolted specificly to the MEVI and didnt have a way to attach to the stock manifold.

eightball

My 1995 GLE front power driver's seat hasn't worked in the Up-Down. If I'm not sitting on the seat and hit the up-down switch, it will go up or down. If I sit in the seat after making it go up with no weight on it, it will drop down because of my weight. It even sounds like like gear teeth grinding against something and not meshing or holding in the up position.

Was there a TSB for this......and is it an easy fix? I am willing to pull the seat myself and fix it. Are their some lift gears that aren't meshing tightly? Seems like it hasn't worked for years........

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I'm guessing the easiest fix would be to get a seat from the junkyard and swap covers.

The Nissan pieces are probably very expensive and not much better.

Dave

rahulkatti

i have read all the other posts saying that the 97 clear headlamps will fit the 95 so i went and got 2 from the junk yard. now they are just headlamps( silver in color), i did not get the black colored housing as it was damaged. now today i tried to get the headlamps out but was unsuccessful....maybe i was not doing it right...i searched maxima.org forums but couldnt find a topic of assembling the headlamp......

1) i hope it is possible to change the headlamp without removing the housing....(correct me if i am wrong)

2) does someone have a writeup or diagrams on how to dissassemble and reassemble the headlamps.

thanks in advance.....

smjk

I have a '98 SE 5-speed and I was wondering if anyone can tell me where is a good place to drill the firewall to run the power cable for my amps. If you have a picture, that would be even better. I was looking under the hood and under the dash and having a hard time finding a clear spot. Thank you!

Da_Shatterer

iTrader: (1)

Whoa buddy. You don't need to drill a hole through your firewall. There is a rubber grommet somewhere in the center, top portion of the firewall. It's kind of hard to explain but just look for a rubber ****. You can punch a hole through it using a screwdriver and just feed the wire through there. I would suggest using fish tape since it's kind of hard feeding wire through a car without it. I used this method to run my power cable for my amp. Mine was 4 gauge I think.

d13

I feel like an absolute idiot for not being able to figure this out, but (specifically on a 99 model, if it makes any difference), how do you disconnect the gray connectors with green tabs (such as the one hooked up to the MAF)? I'm new with automotive stuff and afraid of breaking something. If it requires more than gentile force, how much is required to remove it? Thanks for any help.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Just got to press the green tab in hard and pull. Needs some force. It's old stuff.

d13

That's what I thought. Since it was full of grit, I was pushing on the sides of the latch with a screwdriver because I was afraid of breaking the middle part. After a bit of WD-40 and it popping open on a fluke, I got to look at how it worked and realized I needed to push down, too. Thanks, I'd been worried about that for a week.

smjk

Thanks Shatterer. I'll take a look in the AM. I was mainly looking around the driver's side foot well since I'll probably run the wire under the door sills on the driver side.

jattdemax

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, has anyone heard anything about OBX coilovers?

unclpaule

How do you change balljoints?
Haven't been on in a while but I remembered seeing something a couple of months ago explaining this procedure. Is there an actual link to a how-to? Wanna do this this weekend and don't have the money for a new lca. Help with replacing lca bushings would be a great help too.

B3nnyboy

My max has about 114k miles on it so i figure its time to clean up my maf a bit. I read that it does take a bit of effort to take out, but when i try it seems to be welded in there. Is it supposed to be this hard to remove?

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

You need to rent a ball joint press. That is the only way that you'll ever get the ball joints out. Once you take the wheel off, you need to take the torque member off (per side, there are 2 strut bolts, 1 tie rod bolt, and the ball joint nut) and then you need to use your rented press to take the old ones out, and put the new ones in. You will also need snap ring pliers to get the snap rings off the old ones, and onto the new ones.

GoalieKeg

iTrader: (4)

You remove 4 bolts, 1 large hose clamp, and the connector to the MAF. I wouldn't call that much effort at all. After that, you spray electric parts cleaner on the element and around the inside of the maf. bolt it back on, and you're done. There's no de-welding involved. Perhaps some of the plastic on the MAF has melted somehow, but that is very unlikely.

GMANAZ

To the originator of this thread....outstanding idea...although i'm up to 13 replies I thought i'd give this a whirl.

My wife's 96' Maxima SE has a slow battery drain. If the car sits for 4 or more day the battery is dead. Personally I believe it's the security system. Is there a way to disconnect this by maybe pulling a fuse? Or maybe is there something else causing the drain that others are having this problem with also? Thanks
If you want to email me directly, me email address is: CobraFan@***.net

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

The MAF is a plastic tube about the size of a minature can of soda. It is right in the intake, and it easily removed with a handfull of bolts/screws/nuts.

axmax96

hey, i have a 1996 Maxima SE 5spd. Under hard acceleration, when i shift into 2nd and sometimes 3rd, the rpms won't drop, and it doesnt even feel like the car has left gear, after a period of about 2 seconds, the rpms will drop again and the car will accelerate again. Does this mean my clutch is slipping? Will I need a new clutch, or is it possible i just need an adjustment? Thanks for any help

unclpaule

Thanks for the info GoalieKeg.
Have you actually did this before? It just that the FSM and Hayes say to replace the whole lca if your balljoint is bad. Anyone know why? Anyone thats did this before, can you step in and give me your experience with this. Thanks
Still would like a link to an actual how-to. Don't have the search option yet. Will donate after holidays.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Google works for this site and it's free.

Not sure why the balljoint isn't sold separate from the LCA, but considering the LCA bushings tend to go bad, buying a new arm is not that bad of a thing. I've installed the Energy bushings and new separate balljoints, and with all the creaking and popping they make (yes I used the special grease) I wish now I had just bought a pair of OEM arms and saved a huge amount of money and hassle.

Dave

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The clutch is the problem, but I doubt it's worn out. Worn clutches cause the RPMs to jump in 5th gear, hard throttle. Minor slippage during shifts is a matter of technique and maybe too soft of a pressure plate.

I suggest putting in a new clutch that's just about one 'stage' sturdier if you don't mind having a stiffer pedal and a less forgiving engagement.

Dave

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

It says to replace the whole LCA becasue the dealer doesnt sell just the ball joints. To get OEM balljoints you have to buy the LCA with them already installed.

tag

My trunk recently dropped one of the "a" letters in MAXIMA. I am now driving a "MAXIM". It was a gold emblem. Dealer says I need to buy all 6 letters and paint them myself. Is this true, or can I buy them pre-painted somewhere? I'd rather not have to remove all of them and paint the new ones, which I'm sure I would have to do due to different shades of gold. Can you help?

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Try posting a WTB ad in the 4th gen forsale section.
A lot of members 'shave' their back emblems off so someone might have the letter you need lying around.

tbergma1

just buy the ball joints from autozone or napa or pepboys. Then pay a machine shop to press in the new ones. I would guess 15 bucks a side for the job.

I rebuilt my whole front end a few weeks ago.

max4evr

The way I see it, that remote button is to allow you to open your front windows to let heat out on a hot day before you enter the car. After you enter and it's cooled down, the only way to raise the windows is by using the door switches.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Are you kidding? The windows don't roll back up with the remote.

Xzecution'R

iTrader: (1)

this question has probably been asked before. i did a bit of research last night and couldn't really find what I was looking for. i was flippin through some old magazines and came across this ad about l.e.d conversion bullbs meaning u can have L.E.D lights for ur dash and all u'd have to do is plug it in. the L.E.D has the base of a normal type bulbs so it's a direct replacement. my question is, does any one have bulb numbers for the instrument cluster, climate control and window switches?? thanx.

nizon

I've been googling around for a howto/info on replacing a heater core, and so far have come up with nothing.

It seems mine is leaking (judging by the fog on my windows when I accelerate hard). Being December (hitting -35C some days) I want to get this fixed before it becomes a problem.

My local stealership quoted me nearly $1300 to get this replaced, so obviously there's no way in hell I'm letting them do it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?


Much appreciated, thanks.

TWSTD11

My 98 Max is having starting problems... It was starting really rough for awhile. And then it got to the point where if I started it and drove for 15-20 minutes, and shut the car off to go to lunch or something, then tried to start her up, she wouldn't. It would just crank hard and eventually die. Upon trying it again, just a clicking noise is heard. It would take a half hour more of sitting for the starter to turn over. This happened for a few weeks.

Then about a week ago, car is dead in the water. Starter clicks and that is all she wrote. I'm hoping I can just replace the starter and that will cure the problem, but has anyone else had this problem and replacing the starter fixed it? Or is there maybe a cheaper fix?

Thanks to anyone who can help

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It fixed my problem. Try pounding the starter a time or 2 and see if it turns over after that.



starter--><--you

BigTDogg

99% sure you need to remove the dash to access the heater core.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

This is true, however they will no be the same quality as the OEM units.
Many have had there replacment ball joints fail in a short matter of time. Appareantly the Moog ball joints appear to be the best items to get as far as reliablity goes for replacement ball joints.
You can use a ball joint press kit to press in the new ball joints such as this,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335