Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

well adding a SC at 155k isn't going to keep the in great condition. I would personally swap 3.5 instead of a SC. Get more power down low with a 3.5. If you're not planning on racing it that often I don't feel like SC is worth it. For the money you spend on getting the SC and installing it, you could swap 3.5 and do some nice upgrades to get a lot of power out of it. But you should check into it more. It's just my opinion that SC's arn't worth the time and money if the car isn't tracked since they gain power as you build up. 3.5 has power throughout the band. Your call tho.

jessea510

iTrader: (2)

i have two codes, 0807 and 1305. Two completely deferent things. i reseted the ecu and they come back. i searched and got these links for 0807:
http://http://forums.maxima.org/show...highlight=0807
http://http://forums.maxima.org/show...highlight=EVAP
http://http://forums.maxima.org/show...highlight=0807

I have checked the lines and nothing is clogged. I tested the canister purge control valve and canister purge control solenoid valve and they both work. I checked fuse 58 and its okay. That leads me to the last part that might be wrong which is the control system pressure sensor in the trunk.

The EVAP code has not allowed to pass SMOG here in CA. So i have had a outdated sticker for three months. The 0807 code came on first like half a year ago after i installed an injen intake(not sure if that was the problem) and the 1305 code came on two months ago. any help. i greatly appreciate all the people on the org

Jesse

jessea510

iTrader: (2)

sorry about the links
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0807
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=0807

ABDU89

I have a 96 Maxima, I was looking for something under the front passenger pulled out an unplugged wire. It looks like its coming from a hole under the seat. can someone let me know what wires run under the passenger seat and if it is dangerous to be driving this thing like this.
thanks

mattman

Simply posting here to save bumping old threads or wasting space with new ones on a quick q - do all A32 grilles fit all A32's? Sounds silly but for eg would a cefiro grille fit a maxima, or infiniti grilles etc. I realise bonnets and front bars may vary between the models so just making sure all is sweet

Noone modifies 4gen's over here (the AU models just look too grandpa like so don't have the huge enthusiast following) so even something as simple as say the cefiro sport grill with the horizontal slats on ebay would really set it apart. Not even sure on that grille but really, anything would make it look good.

Maximas are just nowhere over here, there's like 2000 4gens on cardomain in the us, and a grand total of 4 in aus, and at least one of those is a stocker

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

no infiniti/cefiro grilles wont fit a maxima (us version) cefiro/infiniti/overseas maximas have the grille as a part of the hood. not so with US maximas.

mattman

Ah ok... well I'm in australia and been told ours are something between an i30 and cefiro, not like the US maxima much at all (except the chassis obviously).

This pic I have - I'm looking to buy this exact car (don't have a max right now, just looking) looks like it has the grille in the hood so would that be ok for Infiniti and cefiro grilles?

Sorry for the annoying questions There is just no maxima scene at all over here so no local resources.

mgarcia

Need help finding a posting that showed how to clean the TB. Since I cannot use the search function I am not able to locate it. Can anyone please help.

I have a 4th generation Maxima.

Thanks in advance.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

a cefiro is an I30 outside and a maxima inside.

mattman

Ok well this one would be like the cefiro then, I30 outside, max inside (and fully optioned at that). Different rear garnish to both I think but not relevant to this at least.

So being an I30 outside, the grilles should fit, yes?

andrei3333

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517

there are 2 pages so at the bottom press next

and btw this is in the stickies so check there next time

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

You can use a Cefiro grill on that. Other options are available from a company called Paradox Systems.

We have an I30/I35 subforum that you should check out. It is off of the main forum page. You will find a lot of info that pertains to your model in that subforum.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Just take the tb off and clean it.

headhunt3r

When my dad parked the maxima at his work (before I inheritted it) a truck backed into his driver window, and he got it all repaired. The problem is that they replaced the window trim on the top side of the driver door with a silver trim, while the rest of the car has the stock black trim.

My question is if anyone knows where to find the black window trim on top (surrounds the window) and also if anyone has instructions on how to change this trim.

Much appreciation.

1stnissan

Any tips or tricks one should know about when changing the fuel vapor canister and control valve? Does the control valve get sealed to the canister?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Junk yard or on here you can get someone to sell you the trim. Just need to heat it up and remove it from the door and use the special adhesive to reattach it do the door. Not sure what exactly tho. Go to a shop and ask them what they use to reattach that stuff. I know there is something specific.

Well I don't think there was water in it because that would ruin the engine. Either way, as long as it worked out that's what matters. Glad to hear everything is better.

rvaladez34

I wouldn't worry about it. Mine's been like that since I can remember if it's the one i'm thinking about. It's got a white interface clip right? I think it's in case the car was bought with both power seats, but the same wiring was thrown down for all the cars.

rvaladez34

I just bought a CE y-pipe and looking to buy a catback as well. what else do I need to complete the exhaust swap? i.e. How many gastkets? Part Numbers?

Also is SS Megan Catback worth the $300 shipped? Anybody have a clip of this exhaust with a CE y pipe?

tong

iTrader: (4)

Min octane we get is 87, 89 is medium grade and 92 for high. If you're lucky u can find 94. The thing is the first day i braught the car home (last tuesday) I stopped and threw $20 in the tank of 91. On this tuesday i threw in another $10, and it still did it, yesterday i threw in 10 gallons.... bam. Gonna change my fuel filter this weekend anyways.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

You def. do not need to run 95....that's crazy. You only need higher octane if you're engine knocks with low octane or you monitor a/f. Higher octance can be used with the afc to trim for more hp.

rvaladez, there is a whole exhaust sticky for your questions. But in short, yes you will need new gaskets. If you buy a catback system it should come with all necessary stuff. You will need new gaskets for the cat tho. Megan is not a good product IMO and many others one here. There are two catbacks that are really the best. Greddy and Cattman. If you have no worries about cash get the cattman catback. Go to the exhaust sticky and do some research on it. Should find what you need easily.

Twan013

alright guys, i got a question... i need a whole new set of tires, and originally i was going to buy a set of 18" italia inox and a good set of racing tires... but now a lot of my money has to go to my broken foot (medical bills, etc. etc.)... so now, i'm just looking for a good set of 215/55-16 tires... down here in AL, it snows about once in a blue moon (last good snow we had was in 93) so these all season or winter tires, or whatever is unnessecary for me... since my car is a sports car, not a race car, i don't want anything like the khumo escta supra or nitto drag radials or anyhting like that... before i had my accident, i drove an hour to work every day, which was higway/interstate driving, but i am also an "aggressive" driver, burnouts, hard cornering, etc... by the way, i have a stock 97 SE 5-spd.... i plan on modifying it when its paid off, if i still feel like keeping it (which by that time, if i still work in b'ham, it may be time for a new vehicle anyway because of the mileage)... anyway, given all of these stats and info, what tires would you guys recommend? i've been on tirerack, and did their decision guide, but no matter what i choose, they always recommend all-season, (light snow and ice)... my guess is because they cost more money... oh, i guess it might be good to add that i need tires that will last about 2 years... (which i'm assuming i need a harder compound, which will deplete my handling).... so i just don't know what to get...

stoshe2003

Im rather confused about posting in here so i hope this comes across correctly and doesnt offend any members of the site by the way it posts.
Anyways I have a 1998 maxima GLE(at least i think it is a gle, it is the model with power moonroof,foglights,heated leather seats, rear spoiler and bose sound and ABS) It has 3.0 engine as i believe they all do this year.
I am having a problem where the temperature sensor is pegged in the "H" and the engine is not overheating. In fact I have been having a whole array of problems where the OD will turn on and off when im driving, the car will lose 1st gear and it wont come back till i shut it off and restart. I believe it is all related to a short somewhere or a problem with voltage, i just put a brand new battery in and the alternator tested good at Advance auto when they checked it. However, there has been 2 occasions recently where the car battery (the new one) had to be jumped because there was not enough voltage to start it. It seems to me that the electronics in the car at times are starving for voltage and at other times have plenty of it. I noticed that if i turn on the headlights and foglights the temperature indicator goes up, and if i pull up on all 4 of the power window switches the temperature indicator really flies up. Would this not indicate the drain from the extra power being used is starving the power from the temperature sensor or maybe the ground? I really dont even have any idea where to start. Where is the voltage regulator? Should i just buy another alternator and see if that is faulty? This is gonna drive me nuts and my baby is gonna be up on ebay!
-Jason

headhunt3r

I have yet another question... or a request I guess. I followed the guide to the "Change your clock color" guide but I guess my cellophane was not the right color (mine was like a dark-ish red). The clock ended up yellow-ish so I took it back off. I was wondering if anyone had some cellophane left over that gave them the correct color (white / blue-ish white / sky blue). I'd be glad to paypal you a few dollars to mail it to Vancouver, Canada area.

Thanks

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Not. This would indicate that you are ignoring the fact that you are cooking your motor. Just because steam isnt flying out, does not mean you are not overheating. The fact that the temp goes up higher when you turn on some sort of electronics tells you that the increased load on the alternator (and therefore the motor) is making the motor work even harder and driving the temp up more. Unless the temp is on H when you first start the car and stays there all of the time, I would suggest you open up your rad and look for rust or something. Find out why you are overheating. If you want to know whether or not you are suffering from low voltage, get a volt meter or go to autozone. But I believe you really are overheating.

LudaTej

iTrader: (2)

heyy guys im new here and i juss wanted to get your opinion. my dad has a 98 maxima with 116K miles on it and he's also been in 2 accidents with it. as of rite now im deciding between if i should take the maxima or if i should sell it for around $3,000 or $4,000 and buy something else. i dont mind taking the maxima but im scared it might break down in maybe a year or two. so if you guys can help me decide i would relly appreciate it. thnx!

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

dont see why it would break down as long as its properly maintained. Get a full inspection done of the car to make sure all is running well, and you should be good to go for a long time as long as you keep up with maintenance.

kc10fish

iTrader: (1)

dude if he wants to look like the local pimp let him get the Altezzas. And yes they do look like crap!

stoshe2003

responding to:
"Not. This would indicate that you are ignoring the fact that you are cooking your motor. Just because steam isnt flying out, does not mean you are not overheating. The fact that the temp goes up higher when you turn on some sort of electronics tells you that the increased load on the alternator (and therefore the motor) is making the motor work even harder and driving the temp up more. Unless the temp is on H when you first start the car and stays there all of the time, I would suggest you open up your rad and look for rust or something."

This has been going on about two months. I have been to a shop 2 different times where they have shot the block with a digital thermometer (Both times the gauge was pegged at "H") and they told me the car was not over heating and my fans are working properly. The temp gauge could not go from pegged at "H" while im driving and then suddenly down to normal temp. in 2 seconds, which has happened on numerous occassions. Im going order to put in a coollant temp sensor today and an alternator, if the problem persists Im taking it to a Nissan dealership where i will pay them to diagnose the problem and hopefully find out what it is that way. Ive been thinking of buying a 2004 Pontiac grand prix GT2 or GTP, now might be the time. Until these problems i did want a 2002 or 2003 maxima but i think this will probably kill that idea. Does anyone know where the voltage regulator is? I personally believe that my charging system is getting down to like 5 or 6 volts at times when im driving, especially since the tranny has went into "safe mode" like twice and the Overdrive has shut off while im driving (like there isnt enough power to keep it on or something) and that the voltage regulator or whatever kicks up the alternator to throw more power or higher amps or whatever it does, is not working. Do these alts have the voltage regulator in them or is there a part like on my Ford F350 that is completely somewhere else?

LudaTej

iTrader: (2)

you cant put the windows back up with the remote, you can only put them down.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Do some reseach before posting please. Jesus. I had 20's. no rubbing at all. Just coldnt take the ride on city streets.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Uhhh. Sounds like a GXE with a lot of options. Again please know what you are talking about before you post. Most GLE's come with automatic climate. Not to mention only 1 power seat and no Bose.

Oh I get it. just trying to build up your post count.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Have you bled/checked for air in the system? the voltage regulator is located on the alt itself.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Exactly the problem with this newb thread. Can just pust answers to questions asked so long ago and get 15 posts. Hate dealing with that, specially when most of the answers given are incorrect. I thought Henry was shutting this thread down?

stoshe2003

I have not bled the system and ive heard it is a PITA! I have however checked to make sure that the coolant is full and that i can see it flowing thru the radiator. It has not become low. Also, they checked my oil for any sign of coolant last week when i went to get oil change (7800 miles since the last one) and they said it was nice and black and i was well overdue and that it was a little over a half quart low but nothing serious and no signs of anything in the oil. I do however remember that we found my coolant bottle being cracked and removed it around the same time that this began happening and we have had the overflow line plugged and clamped off with a bolt the past couple months so i will be getting one of those from a junkyard and installing it tomorrow. I guess i will definetly know if it is overheating after this because i would assume(=*** out of me+you) that coolant will flow into the new bottle once it's in if it is indeed overheating. The car is as good as gone if i dont get resolution out of one of these things, i dont have time or patience to deal with repititious problems starting now that it hit 140,000 miles, it will be up on ebay with a reserve of 4 grand and the next owner can deal with the problem. Too bad i spent 1500 at a nissan dealer last summer on an all new air conditioning system. I dont need another money pit. I already have a 1987 pontiac fiero GT with a 4.9 litre cadillac v-8 and that is plenty enough of an automobile money pit...lol

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I was, but then things reigned in for a few days...

When we hit 1000 posts, the thread gets locked and I will open a new one. I might do it sooner if the crap does not stop...

99BlackMaxMS

iTrader: (85)

Heres a quick one....

How many O2 sensors does a 99 Cali Spec have? And where are they located? I think there are 4 but please help me out and specify...I may consider replacing them if/when I get a new y-pipe/cat.

stoshe2003

well i think i got it fixed! and its a damn good thing because i was all ready to sell the car! I replaced:
1.)alternator (even though it tested good at two different stores)
2.) alt belt
3.) negative ground cable for battery
4.) coolant temp sensor but not sending unit
5.) got a coolant bottle from a junkyard
6.) replaced coolant for 3rd time this year
after putting everything in i let the car run for about an hour and 20 minutes in my barn with the headlight, foglights and radio all on and it didnt even get halfway hot. Then for about another hour i let it run with the brakelights propped on also (to see if they actually had a short). Then i went on about a 38 mile road trip and it was soooooo nice to not have the overdrive shut off on the freeway and the transmission not go into "safe mode" and the temperature gauge not move once above halfway after two months of aggravating driving with this problem. So im not sure which thing that i did was right but im guessing that
1.) whatever kicks up the alternator output to feed extra voltage into the system when it gets low was going bad and the alt. just wasnt hot enough when it was tested at both places foir it to happen. Or that :
2.) The negative ground cable was not grounding anymore (which by the way was a real PITA to get out) and i cleaned up all connection points before putting the new one in.
So i can pat myself on the back and go on to bigger and better things like a new dual exhaust for my fiero!
Thanks to maxima.org for the tips on alternator replacement and coolant flushing

drftr915

ok so i recently purchased 18's from another member and i am really excited to put them on and lower my car.

the problem is that i have previously lowered my car and noticed some problems. I am not sure if lowering my car with the tein s tech springs is responsible for this but, i had recently changed both front axels and not much later than a month and a half later i decided to take the springs of and go back to oem. When i took of the springs i found that my boot was cracked significantly on the left front side and also noticed that the bottom of the strut was really close to the boot. i really want to lower my car again but i am really scared that i will damage the boot again.

will it be ok to put the tein s techs back on?
how can i prevent the boot from cracking ?
is the bottom of the strut responsible for the damage to the boot?



i am really new at this whole forum thing and i'm not sure if i will even be able to find this thread again so if someone who has an answer could pm it to me that would be great, thanks alot.

ISPY30

Ok i got some questions. I have a 97 infiniti I30 auto. Well at idle my car sputters like something getting ready to stall, its like a clicking action. BUT its only when i put the car in drive or reverse, etc. Park and neutral it is fine. I ran the codes for my car and got 0201, 0401, 0701, and 0304. I went into diagnosing the problem, coilpack on cylinder number one was a gonner-replaced it, come to find out cylinders 3 and 5 were arching through the spark plug boots but the coilpacks were still firing-replaced them. Thought it would fix the problem? NOpe it didnt, the other day i changed oil(not relevant), spark plugs with NGK platinum iridiums, fuel filter, cleaned MAF and throttle body, checked and tested both crankshaft position sensors. The one next to the oilpan is showing me .607m in my fluke meter on ohm setting. the one on the block is showing .58m with the two prongs touching the sensor with two male connectors one outside and then the middle vice versa. Double checked the camshaft sensor and it is coming out fine. Last and not least im stumped because i reset the ecu and keep getting 0201 no matter what i do. What i do know is i took some electrical cleaner spray and cleaned all my plugs and the one next to the oilpan had oil in the female connector and in the sensor. Do i need to replace this sensor? Idk where is the condensor that shows in the stickies under code 0201. I really cant figure this out. Next thing im gonna change the tps, maf, and clean the IACV, and replace the pcv valve, tranny flush and fill(not relevant to ?'s). Someone give me some advice please. BTW i bought the car from someone who was the second owner, oil leak fixed by owner at infiniti and never maintenanced that good, also sat for a year outside second owners house only used like once or twice every other month. sorry for long post

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Which boots? Was it the strut boot or the CV boot that was cracked?