2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

you dont need a deep socket. there is no stud sticking out. you need a 1/2 inch drive ratchet if you arent strong enough with an extension and/or a breaker bar.

tong

iTrader: (4)

ok new here lets try this:

First i'd like to thank everyone for the detailed description of everything including the DIY section, thanks to that i've saved a few bucks already.

Now onto the important stuff:

1995 maxima se, 5 speed, with all the option except the automatic climate control thingy.

Got the car knowing the knock sensor was "bad" or at least that's what the code thrown out was, replaced that, thought i was grand, reset the check engine light. That was the only code it threw out.

Few miles after that check engine light comes on again with 3 codes:

0103 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
0303 - front Oxygen Sensor
0503 - rear Oxygen Sensor

And it started bucking and stuff as if the same thing with the knock sensor was back.

I'm guessing that while i was changing the knock sensor I incedentaly hit it and disconnected a harness or something.

My questions are:

#1 are all these on or near the same harness? Someone have a picture or pictures of it to better point me in the right direction?

#2 And would either two of these make the car stall or act like the knock sensor was bad again? (if no then i got more problems)


Few more not related to that part are these:

Front drivers side fog light, how in the hell do u get to it to change the light bulb without being some sort of contortionist? (your DIY didn't have the fog light part of it)

And the fan control for the heater system, the only one that works is setting 4 (the highest) the other ones don't do anything, guessing the switch has some corrosion, but maybe someone knows something else?

Again, thank you for the amount of detail and information provided by these forums, very very helpfull.

darkman

what is the best way to install my cai bc there are a lot of ways and i want to cut that hole in the right place

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

The ETCS harness is kind of close to the opening you use when doing your knock sensor but I would be shocked if you hit it.

02 sensor plugs are nowhere near the KS or the opening. (especially the rear one)

A bad knock sensor will not make the car buck.

you get underneath the car and twist the housing to change the bulb. (or take off the fog light)

there should be something in the stickies about the temp control switch.

Sounds like you have more problems that have nothing to do with the KS.

shellymac

well, i have been using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet? is that gonna make a difference?

tong

iTrader: (4)

the reason i think i might of hit some wiring is the timing of it i mean it was litteraly 20 min after i changed the knock sensor and the fact that both 0303 and 0503 say this :

Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted).
- Defective Oxygen Sensor

The bucking as i describe it feels as if the car is trying to remap fuel and stuff as described by the knock sensor DIY.

also found this before i cane to these maxima forums:

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffwor...n-maxima-2.htm

in which it says:

"Hard starting: Hard starting, stalling, or stumbling under load could be caused by corrosion of the coolant sensor. (1995-96)"

and

"Rough idle: Several problems (no-start, no A/C, rough running, etc.) can be traced to broken wires in the engine compartment where the harness bends near the right strut tower. (1995-97)"

Hence my thoughts.

Edit: Just changed the coolant sensor, that code is now gone, all that's left is the O2's, still the same problem though, seems to get worse as the car gets warmer, also noticed that both my fans don't turn on as it gets warmer, any thoughts?
Could the o2 sensors make that huge of a problem, throttle response gets slower and slower as it gets warmer? And i read in another part of the forums that some (gen 5 i believe) need to go back to the dealer when u change out the MAF, however i see nothing in the 4th gen so i'm assuming it doesn't need that?

H_townmax

sorry if this has already been asked there is alot of posts but i cant really find out waht a mevi,00vi,is or where i can get them if i need them im all about makeing my max go fast and i was told to get these and some ECU and a rpm switch but i really cant find all that much about them also i really can get on the net for that long thats why i really dont have time to give a good search for these things so any help would be nice

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

All motor forum has information on them. If you don't have time to get on the net I don't really recommend doing either mod. You need to read up on both to know what you're doing. Mevi is a fairly simple process that I've been told and read. 00vi is not as easy. Takes a lot of planning. Mevi's are very hard to find now since they have stopped being made. Some people do sell them but not often. 00vi parts most be found and pieced together. There is a long process to getting to 00vi to work. If you don't have time for research then find some info on the de-k and how to swap it into your max. Probably cheaper than Mevi or 00vi if you can find a good motor. You really need to spend some time learning about them if you want to do the mods tho. They can easily mess up your car.

MaximaDvr

I just joined this weekend but have ended up spending considerable hours reading through threads this weekend. Anyways, I have a question about the y pipe mod. It seems like a lot of ppl suggest it as a good mod for the amount of HP you will gain and for the ability to be able to install it yourself. So I'm considering doing this but I had a hard time finding info on this site besides the installation steps.

First of all is this good recomended mod? If I go with this mod and purchase a new y pipe, can I end it there for now, or do i have to get any other new exhaust components/O2 sensors?

Also, can I pretty much just go with any brand y pipe? I ebay'd some and got a few results for 'warpspeed' for like $200 and i've noticed a lotta ppl on here have that one.

It sounds like a fun project, and I would love the HP gain. I just wanna make sure I'm not getting in over my head here and end up dropping more cash than I would like.

I've got a 96 max se, 120k

Thanks for the help

tong

iTrader: (4)

Ok lets see if i can clear this up.

Question is ignition coil or injector?

Starts fine, runs good but the longer it's running/warmer it gets it starts missfiring, idling rough, i'm going with coil only because both my front and rear heated o2 sensors got fowled, and i'm going to guess it's by excess gas, going out to check the coild packs with the post in the DIY section, hopefully it shows this.

In any case, anyone in or around Springfeild MA got a coil pack? will find out if front or rear.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Y pipe is one of the best bang for you buck mod for the max. About 20hp gain with a y pipe. No you don't need to change the rest of the exhaust at the same time but a lot of people do it. There is a sale in here for CE pipes for $170 shipped. Jump on that if you want to do it because its a great deal and CE is better than warpspeed (imo). Warpspeed has been known to have a "bees in the can" sound. You're not getting over your head, install will be a pain because of your rusted bolts but you can get the shop to loosen them or have the shop put the pipe on.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Check the coil pack first then post again with the results.

tong

iTrader: (4)

ok so i check the coils, but the walk thru seems not to match correctly, but i did find 2 of them in the rear pulling lower voltages. Now it really seems as if there's a misfire. In the process of course i unplug all this stuff trying to see if i can get it to reproduce a bunch of stuff, sure enough the ECM picks up those codes.

Now I get these:

0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor <-- yup i unplugged that for a second

0201 - ignition coil and power transistor <--- yup unplugged one or two of the coils to see what would happen, even unplugged a wiring harness

0303 -- front Oxygen Sensor on the left cylinder bank <-- preexisting

0401 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor -- yup unplugged that also

0503 - Front Oxygen Sensor on the right cylinder bank <- preexisting once again

0901 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Right Bank <-- new one but isn't that the same as the 0503? think i unplugged that harness for a second too.

Now it seems to run rougher, but not stalling like before, do these coil packs fire normally when cold then when their warm, occasionally cut out? If so would coincide with the symptoms I'm having.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

well obviously if you unplugged those sensors the code will be thrown. You need to reset the ecu after unplugging things to get correct codes. If you're gettin 02 codes I would change those out. Change the two coils that are reading low and see what happens.

tong

iTrader: (4)

O2's are gonna get done soon and the coils also, was hopping to find someone in these forums in my area that has the coils maybe all 6 to sell. Thanks guys mthink i found the problem

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I have three coils for sale.

tong

iTrader: (4)

front or back?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

they are for the rears

tong

iTrader: (4)

cool pm me with details and info.

Anyone got 1 front at least if not all 3 ?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I can't pm you since you still don't have enough posts. But there is someone selling all their coils on here. Go to the classifieds and look. As much as I want to sell mine and get some $$ for them I figured you it would be easier for you if you bought them all at once from someone. If not then I'll gladly sell you my three rears.

here's the link:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=514875

he wants 60 for 8 packs which is a fantastic deal.

MaxiiMa

i need to change the cat on my car... i've seen some cheap test pipes and other alternatives on ebay, but none of them have a o2 sensor bung... but they saY that they'll work fine on the 95 max. what will i do with the o2 sensor? i found a test pipe that has the o2 sensor bung but it says it still wont pass emission... but will plugging the 02 sensor atleast turn the cel light off for the sensor. what happens if i get a test pipe with no 02 sensor bung... will it make a difference?

heynow

iTrader: (1)

just get an effing high-flow cat!!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The rear o2 sensor is there to monitor the cat, so, in theory, it should trip the CEL when using a bunged test pipe. Since there is not catalytic material there to monitor.

BUT, from my personal experience, I had a resonated test pipe, with an O2 sensor bunged in there, and the light didn't trip in over 3 years.

BD44

When I start my car and put it in reverse and start backing up it makes a sound like a fog horn. Any ideas? BD

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Turn up your radio and stop going in reverse.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

Just joking. sounds like uneven pad wear (in the front or back). If you pull of your pads you should notice one or more of them is thicker on one side of the pad then the other (not one pad thicker than the other). check your guide pins. check your rotor. check your pads.

jpm36

Newb here who is looking for some help with his current situation. Alright, my problem is with my gas flap/cover (i don't know the technical term, but the thing that pops open to get to the gas cap, like the gas cover door). Well, when I went to pump some gas in today, I popped it open and filled my car up like normal. However, when i went to close the "gas door" it wouldn't fully close all the way. It doesn't match up now, and it overhangs on the bottom. Well i didn't want to force it at the gas station, so i just drove home and took a closer look at it. I can't seem to figure out why it won't shut, and it's pretty hard to force back in so I didn't try that. I didn't want to risk breaking it/ bending it off so i let it be. Also, i tried unscrewing it off but the screws are on pretty tight and my phillips and power screw driver were no match for it. Is there anything I can do to fix it, or do i have to unscrew it and order another one? (if so where is the best place to order) Thanks in advance for any help that you are able to give me.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

I have one for sale if you want to buy another one. screwing it off is very difficult. before purchasing another one, post a pic of it open and almost closed and I can tell you what to do to line it up.

jransbottom

Hi All and thanks for this thread. Can someone please tell me if the plastic shift trim bezel with the lighter socket is different between automatic and manual transmissions? I need a new one and I'm not sure if they're interchangeable or if I have to get one from another standard transmission since that's what I have. Anybody have one they'd be willing to part with?
Thanks in advance.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

They're definitely different. I think some people have used the auto trim with a 5sp but it requires some modification of the shift boot. Just go with the manual trim.

tong

iTrader: (4)

ok got my coil packs and fixed that problem, but not my original problem. Hopefully here's a better description.

Delayed throttle response, lets say 1/4 second to 1/2 second, sometimes stalls but usually this all happens after it's warmed up. Driving feels like a misfire is occurring, again only after it's warmed up, when it's cold she runs fine. Only code i got is the 2 O2 sensors.

shellymac

the fan for my ac/heat keeps going on and off and sometimes starts up when i restart my car or hit a speed bump or drive fast. this is crazy cause i am sometimes intentionally hitting bumps to get my a/c on...... any suggestions on what the problem may be?

mattman

I'd be guessing a loose electrical connection, if it's a bit random, and works when you hit a bump... some loose wires moving around has my money.

MaximusTheGreat

iTrader: (1)

I just purchased 95 SE bone stock as daily work car and project vehicle. I have read and searched for 3 days- still don't have the answer.

I want to first change the suspension. (Right now I feel like getting sea sick in the car- so wavy) I would like to keep it around $1K.
I want to drop the car maybe 2" and have good handling without feeling every bump. I have a 2yr old and 5yr old sometimes in back seat.

I wouldn't mind having adjustable so when I am by myself, it can be stiff and with the kids, a softer ride.

Is there anything else (besides front end alignment) that needs to be purchased, replaced at the same time.

I have been driving my friends 1996 Ford Mustang Cobra for 3 months (until I could find a second vehicle) and now that I've tasted 320HP, I want more...so I'm trying to set the car up for a supercharger...so keep that in mind when doing other mods.

I appreciate any feedback since I can not start a thread. I tried e-mailing d00df00d (who seems to have quite the knowledge on suspension) but it doesn't allow me to do that either.

ny240gtr

what do i need to put the 97 fog light on my 96maxima besides the bumper

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Well why don't you try to fix the codes first?

tong

iTrader: (4)

Cause I'm butt broke until tomorrow and 2 O2 sensors are expensive. Was going to start a thread in the classified section looking for 2 o2 sensors but don't have the permissions yet.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Well I don't know where you searched for 3 days because all of your answers would have been answered in 1 day if you really searched on here. On the 4th gen front page are all the stickies for suspension and all the mods. Coilovers are the answer but don't expect a nice ride with a 2" drop. It will stil lbe fairly rough. coilovers will be the best and yes you need other stuff installed usually when doing suspension. Superchargers arn't made anymore so you need to find one being sold. Some guys are selling them on here now for a pretty good price. Lot of work for the SC tho. You can also do a 3.5 swap for more power. If you really want the SC then I would say swap in a de-k and do the SC because then your exhaust will need to be upgraded and all. But know that gaining the hp you got in the mustang is not an easy task or a small amount of $$. Go back to the 4th gen page and start looking through the stickies.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Yeah they are def. expensive sensors. But I would say that you should do that first and see what happens. It might not be the problem but they should be fixed if they are throwing a code.

MaximusTheGreat

iTrader: (1)

I will go with coilovers (JIC best but out of my price range). Too many probs with Ksport leaking (even though a lot say they are great).

I already have exhaust system picked out but want suspension first.
I'll keep searching the threads. I don't want to swap for 3.5. My engine and transmission are great shape with 155k