Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

That's exactly what is in the thread I said to look in. I'm not trying to be an ***. I'm telling you to look in there. Obviously if there is a 10 page thread about exhaust sounds and all that it would have some good stuff. But I guess you shouldnt listen to any advice besides the guys that have the huge post counts.

Paz1986

i did some searching and have found out my answer. If your the man on here with a huge amount of posts, what can you say about intakes? I am interested in the Injen because it requires no drilling and am afraid of sucking up water into the engine.

spoink

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know the answer to this or if there is a mod to make them light up? It sucks at night, i have to just randomly push buttons until I find the right one. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Injen is a HAI. It doesn't require drilling, thats correct. It bends down towards the radiator so you're actually picking up the hot air from the radiator and doing nothing. Injen is just brand name. If you want a good intake stay stock or get a true CAI. That requires you to drill through the fender wall. The filter will be fine and won't suck up water like you think it will. Many how have the setup agree with that. Remember, anything that stays inside the engine bay with an open filter is WAI and does not give good performance gains. They will give some small top end but you lose low end power. True CAI will give small gains all over.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Yes the buttons should light up...

Paz1986

thanks for the clarification!!!!!

maybe i will just go for a drop in k and n for now and get the budget y and b pipes and muffler of my choice, flows might be different?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

That should be good. Even if you want to later you can just get the pipe for after the stock resonator and bring that down for a custom CAI. That would work. But the k&n with new exhaust should be good.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

lmao @ the answer you got. The answer is, yes they are supposed to light up. there are tiny light bulbs inside that are probably blown. you can either do an LED mod to change the colour and make them brighter or simply get new bulbs. get a mini flathead screwdriver and gently take it apart. its fairly simple to do.

spoink

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your help, anyone know what size bulbs they are?

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

They're not a normal size you can get from any auto parts store.

You'll have to get them at a dealership parts dept.

I think they're a few dollars each.

playboi

Whats up every1.. i just started fixing my 97 auto max after a 1 year break but it has a really bad start up.. the starter sounds fine.. but it just turns and turns until it finally starts up.. once started and left in park the car will choke and die if i rev it over 2500rpm..then in drive it just dies real quick..the car also has a delayed reaction when i hit the pedal real quick then let go real quick..black smoke coming from exhaust too..what is the cheapest ways to start the reapir process.. any suggestions..

J_Ketzer

iTrader: (1)

97 SE makes a rattling noise from the right side of the vehicle when moving. I think it's from the front, but it's difficult to pinpoint. The noise is difficult to describe -- if you put a couple pennies in a soup can and shook it, that's sort of what it sounds like. My friend said it sounds like a tambourine.

The rattle is proportional to vehicle speed -- it makes no noise when stopped, and picks up the faster the car's moving. It is not related to engine speed, and the noise completely disappears under any brake application.

Alignment and steering are fine, suspension handles normally and tire wear is normal. It has been making the noise for some time now with no apparent worsening.

One friend of mine suggested that it might be a dragging brake piston. Any other ideas out there?

Thanks,
J.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Is the exhaust original? If so, check the heat shield around the catalytic converter. It tends to rust and break off on one side and then rattle as you drive.

If it isn't that, check all the exhaust hangers. One might have broken.

J_Ketzer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the suggestion. I found a possible solution: a shroud around the exhaust pipe rusted apart, along with the clamp holding it on, about two to three feet forward of the muffler. This left a long segment of that shroud free to move; it's possible that that was rattling while the car moved (although I'm still not sure why the noise would stop with brake application).

The car's up on jack stands right now awaiting delivery of brake pads, but I'll secure that shroud and see if that solves the rattle. Thanks again.

CODE

Hey everyone!
Thanks for making this thread!
I have been a member for over 5-6 years, however I haven't been on the forums for a while as I sold my Maxima. (poor decision, I know!)
I have requested login informaiton to my e-mail address to no avail. I even sent a message to the admin and never got a reply...
So... I'm an old newbie!!

My Mom's 99 Maxima SE has the following problem:

She has a Climate Control.
A tow truck driver connected a device to her car to figure out what was wrong with it. (battery seemed dead)
After he did this the Climate Control unit cycles like mad. The fan goes on speed 1, 2, 3 then 4, then back to 1. Pressing buttons works for all of 1/2 second. Turning it off, only has it turn back on in 1/2 second...

I'm just wondering if anyone else has heard of this? or had this problem? It's winter time here, and her car is starting to get cold!

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
DaveH.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

I've never heard of the fan speed goin haywire like that, but maybe the fix is the same as when the **** only works on 1 and 4.

There's a resistor unit behind the glove compartment that controls the fan speed, you could try replacing that first. It only cost around $20 or so.

Otherwise, it sounds like the climate control unit itself is fried and needs to be replaced. Might be able to find a used one in the forsale forum.

CODE

Thanks for that idea.
I think the fact that I can't even turn it off suggests the Climate Control unit.
I will check the forsale forums as you suggested.

I'm still interested in whether anyone else had had computer components go due to boosting or scanning of the codes?!?

Thanks everyone!

DaveH.

maximomar

iTrader: (3)

ok so i had a diagnostic check done on my car and just as i suspected one of the coils is shot (cylinder #1).....when i asked how much it would cost to replace it he gave me a quote of over $200.....i was like .........since i have a 99 i was thinking i might as well buy all 6 for peace of mind...good/bad idea?.....looked on ebay and i see a set for $300....http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...0017718&rd=1,1....is there a difference between part numbers 22448-31U01/ 22448-31U06 & F3000-138891/F3000-138892?


also since i cant post in classifides, i was wondering if anyone out there has any they could sell me ASAP
thanks!

addendum: how bad is it to keep driving like this?

J_Ketzer

iTrader: (1)

Here's a general newb question... a few days ago, I flushed and refilled the radiator and reservoir tank, and the Max has been parked in a garage since then. Today I noticed that the reservoir tank fluid level was down near the minimum line. Everything's tight and all the hoses are connected, and there is no coolant leaking anywhere under hood or on the floor. So, I'm confused - does that just mean I trapped some air in the radiator when I refilled it?

aedavis

I've had my 99 SE-L for about 4 years now (115K miles) and in the last year it has started having a low frequency rattling/clunking noise from the rear suspension. This only happens on small bumps - large ones like speed bumps, no noise.

I've checked everything under the car for looseness and emptied the trunk but haven't found the source. Some searching here on Maxima.org through Google seems to indicate that it might be a rear strut problem, but I couldn't find anyone that described the same symptoms I have.

The car passes the bounce test just fine and there is no oil/fluid leaking from any of the struts so I'm hesitant to put new struts on to fix this noise. Handling is the same as it always has been so I don't want to replace struts unless someone can convince me that they are the source of the problem.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Allan

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Probably just air that was trapped in the system.

Fill it up to the correct level and drive it for a few days. See what happens.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

If it's original, check your exhaust. Could be a broken hanger/bracket or a rusted or internally shot muffler.

Just jack up the rear and shake it from the tailpipe.

J_Ketzer

iTrader: (1)

Right on both counts, it looks. The exhaust apparently was the source of the rattle, and the mysterious disappearing coolant stopped as well.

Thanks a lot.

Nismo99Banda

I am installing a remote start, on my 99. And i was looking for the horn wire(neg). I think it suppose to be green/white. If any knows anything about the wire or the entire install please help or email me.

cbjja428

HELP!!! After warmed up (10+ mins. of driving) when slowing down or letting off the gas my car stutters. And when coming slowing down around 10 mph some times it stall and the engine cuts off(mind you i drive an A/T).

cbjja428

bump

tsh52

sounds like a bad mass air flow sensor...i just went through all that, but my symptoms were a bit different because i drive a 5-speed...if your check engine light is on, do the self diagnostic and see if it is your MAFS...see the stickies for the procedure...

ANYWAY, i'm back with a new mass airflow sensor but a similar problem than i had before...i'll be driving along and the car starts to buck, take it out of gear and it dies...try to crank it up and it'll only stay alive if i pump the gas...seems like it's not getting enough gas...anyway i just had the MAFS replaced with an "aftermarket" MAFS two months ago...the mechanic was trying to save me some money and this was cheaper than the nissan part...so i take it to the dealer after i have these problems and they say that it could be my "aftermarket" sensor...does it really make a difference? could this be my problem? anyway i'm taking it back to the mechanic that put the bunk MAFS on and paying the difference for a nissan part...HOPEFULLY my problems will be over...
have any of you guys had any problems with the cheaper, non-nissan MAFS? thanks

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

My brother had a similar problem on his 99 recently. Turned out to be a leak in the upper intake manifold gasket. Have that checked too while you're at the shop.

Wassup2114

iTrader: (2)

Try replacing the fuel filter as well, that's what fixed mine when I had a similar problem.

c303

Okay guys, my turn to do this. Long time member, just not enough posts to start my own thread.

So, I need a new ignition coil. I know the debate between the Hanshins and the Mitsu coils. My question is this - there seems to be some difference between the 99s made in late '98 (like mine) and ones that were actually made in 1999. Mine has the Hanshins, and I would like to get the Mitsus to avoid quality issues down the road. Are these interchangeable with each other?

Thanks.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Yes they are. You can use the Mitsus with no problems.

c303

Thanks Flava. Much appreciated.

C303

brs2c

This is my first post I do not currently own a max. I had an 2000 gxe w/ a few mods years ago, but have been a hardcore DSM guy for the last 3 years. I am in the process of opening up my own business and finishing up my masters degree. I now need more professional, RELIABLE, semi quick, and inexpesive car. The maxima seems to be the answer for me. I am a mechanically competent and would like to spend around 5K when all is said and done. I have been looking at throwing a 3.5 into a 95 max shell so that passing emmisions would not be a probem, and but I do like the look of the 2k-2003 from the "professional look" standpoint. I would like to put down as close to 250 to the ground as possible but reliability is key. I am open to any advise and am eager to learn more about maximas and my options.

Also let me know if anyone is interested in buying o tradning for my silver GST it has a freshly rebuilt motor and around 8k in mods and should put down around 400 whp on pump. I have pics and a mod list if interested.

goldfish914

i have an ecu code 0407 and that means that my Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) is bad... is this something u replace or can adjust? my car will NOT start and i just put a y pipe on ha i wanna at least hear it come 2 life. i have subs in my car i was thinking that mab it got knocked around? im waiting 4 stupid stuff 2 happen cuz of those

thanks,
andy

blue99se

I have a major automatic transmission fluid leak that is pouring out the small notch in the transaxle adjacent to the torque converter access cover. I am guessing that one of the seals needs to be replaced, but which one? Could this be one of the driveaxle seals leaking? The leakage does not come from where the driveaxle goes into the transaxle housing. Any ideas?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

you can try removing the sensor and cleaning it (might be so dirty its not reading properly), you can also test it with a multi meter to make sure its bad.

worse comes to worse replace the sensor. Wont take but 5 minutes to change.

rahulkatti

i was on my way to wahington dc from columbus ohio when first the battery and brake dash lights came on and my car stopped on I68 near cumberland maryland.....got the car fixed by a local crew...turned out to be a faulty alternator...cost me freaking 500 dollars in total...now the dash lights dissapeared at that time but came back on my way back 3 days later.....but its not the alternator cause the car ran almost a 100 miles on the highway and is running everyday in the city....now the lights are acting even more wierd....now they dissappear for a while but come back on and flash in no specific order....its feels like there is a faulty connection somewhere.......can someone please help......

gratuitous

Aw geez... I wish I could search. I'd probably find some good info on this one...

I've got a '99 with 110K. The only problems I've ever had with it are the infamous coil failure problems and EGR passage way clog. Sure, I've had to replace the struts earlier than I'd like, but all in all, the Maxima has been a low cost of ownership car.

Now the only problem I'm experiencing is a periodic rough start when the car has been sitting for several days. For about 5 seconds, it sounds like a freakin' diesel motor with a lot of engine vibration, and then it smooths out to normal. The motor starts right up, and after 5 seconds it runs perfectly normal. But for that 5 seconds it sounds like crud.

A guy I've worked with suggested that maybe it's a sticking valve lifter that causing the problem. I don't know, but every problem I've ever had with this car is a problem someone else has had at another time. Can anyone give me some things to check, or perform a search for me? Thanks! You guys rock!

gratuitous

I've also read in other sources that this may have something to do with the timing chain tensioner???

gratuitous

I think that this thread is broken, or something.