headhunt3r

My garage door opener recently got replaced and this new one has a "rolling code". I've tried programming my Homelink accordingly but it doesn't seem to work. I'm wondering if it is compatible in the first place with this style of door openers. My Max is a 97 SE.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

It is, but you have to use the rolling code programming instructions for the homelink transmitter. It took forever for me to get the '00 transmitter to work with my rolling code.

JPMax

iTrader: (10)

Does the car do this "shaking" when in park as well? If so, check all the ignition coils, clean the throttle body and MAF sensor.

If it only does it while moving, then check your brakes. Probably a warped rotor, rusted caliper slide pin, or faulty caliper piston.

STILLENGLE

Where Can i Find Private Profile Wheels?

headhunt3r

Ya... I've tried pretty much everything I could think of. Played with it for like over an hour and gave up. Was there any trick at the end that did the job for you? Any suggestions?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

No. On try 5 or 6 it finally worked...but it un-programmed all of the other transmitters...

bpk01

thanks phenryiv1 I checked back and there was one posted today.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Pull the car in the garage so the visor is directly under the opener. Then open your moonroof if you have it.

I don't recall the exact sequence, but instead of programming it with an opener remote, you program it with the opener itself. Look in your owners manual and call Homelink's 800 number and they'll walk you thru it.

Dave

ZachsMax

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, but sometimes I'll be driving and try to do it and it gets annoying. I mean, I don't think the car is supposed to do that. Does anybody know whats going on?

bpk01

I just installed an oxygen sensor but didnt bother with clipping the wire holders in. Should i go back and snap them in or will it be ok?

Deltaq

Hey folks, New owner of a 96 maxima here w198k miles in need of some maintance and since im no mechanic, i ran into a problem on the rear driver side caliper piston refusing to retract inside the caliper using c-clamp to install the new brake pads.

I also noticed the rubber seal is torn and the piston shows signs of rust build up on the cylinder, will it be possible to rebuild the caliper or do i have to replace the entire caliper?

Only refference i've had so far is the Hayes service manual and memory of some eps i watch on powerblock shows on spike TV .

Any links/info would be greatly appreciated.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

rear calipers turn in. they dont push in witha C clamp. If your passenger side went in the the C Clamp then that one is the problem. not the other side.

Deltaq

Oh my, no wonder i count push it in after a certain point, will i have to buy a new tool to screw it in? i havent touched the passanger side, only serviced the front axles so far.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

one of these

prob about $10 at pepboys.

Deltaq

Cool, Local shops r closed at this hour, will have to resume tomorrow ^^

Since the rubber boot of the piston is torn will the piston need to be replaced aswell or will it depend on how funtional i will find the caliper?

I found a caliper kit that includes the seals and piston for 5 bux at advanced auto parts but its mail in only.

Tru Torque Brake Caliper Kit
Part Number: D352027

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

That is your call. If you feel confident enough to "rebuild" the caliper then go for it. I would wait to see if it is seizzed first however since there is a chance it may have to be replaced.

Deltaq

Went to the shop today for the part, tried to turn it with the wrench and no cigars. Guess its seiged since it only managed to move when i started using the impact wrench.

Further instection i found another problem, the guide pin that resides on the caliper braket is stuck aswell.

Is the braket/pin salvagable or will i have to replace those aswell?
I lubed the pin with 3in1 oil to see if i can get this thing loose but its hard on that i can barely nudge it with clamp pliers.

Edit: typos

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Time limit extended.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

New bracket and guide pins. Even if you get the old one out and loose, the gap will be so close that it will most likely seize up again.

jpm36

I just have a real simple question to ask pertaining to replacing my front speakers. I have a 96 GXE non Bose, and was wondering how i go about changing the front door speakers. Do the speaker covers pop off or do I have to remove the door panel? If I have to take the panels off, are there any instructions wandering around that would guide me through the process? Thanks in advance for any help you give, and please forgive me for my "newbness" in regards to this audio question.

andrei3333

the door panels come off

jpm36

I apologize for wasting peoples time, I managed to find instructions. Regardless, thanks for the quick response.

nicki

so my engine light has been on, 4 codes. one is a transmission code. i took the car to the dealer so they can run the tests. they had to drop the transmission pan to see what the problem was for the code P1760. they told me i had to have the solenoids replaced. i don't know much about all this except that they deal with shifting right? the dealer wasn't much help. i've had this code for months & my car has never given me any problems. til i was driving my car home from the dealer. the car/transmission was jerking terribly. i had to pull over twice. ended up putting the car in 2nd & driving home with the flashers on. called the dealer back & told them what happened. all they said was it's the solenoids acting up that need replaced. am i being fed BS? can someone please explain this a little better to me?
thank you in advance.

(i ended up having the car towed to a transmission shop, haven't heard anything yet)

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

what are the other codes? Sounds like your solenoids are messed up. The idea is that the solenoids go on and off to shift the tranny. Don't remeber what the combos are at this exact time but if one is working it will mess up the tranny gears. Probably the problem but telling the other codes could help diagnose.

nicki

well i found out earlier that it's the torque converter that is bad which i guess caused the solenoids to go. so the transmission needs rebuilt. it will cost about $1500.

the other codes P0440 (replace vent valve & canister) i heard there was a 'recall' on this but for whatever reason my vin doesn't fall under that.

P0400 (clean out the egr tube & components, replace gasket)

there was knock sensor code but i was told to ignore since it could've come on from one of the codes above.

all this & the inspection is up at the end of the month.
when it rains it pours.
i currently have about 94k miles on the car. i'm hoping it's gonna go for a long time now. i hate to see go down hill from here.

Hondawhat?

Im not sure if this question has been asked in this thread yet but Im not going to read through all 29 pages.
Is it possible to add the auto sportshift to 98 maxima. If so would it be costeffective I like auto but sometimes I want to shift I have never seen it done so it might not be worth it but I would like to know if it is possible
Thanks

Hondawhat?

Sorry another Quick Question How do I find out about VA area maxima meetings?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Yeah fix the other codes and the KS code should go away. If it doesnt then you may need to replace it. 94k...you have plenty of life left in the car if you take care of it.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

There was something made that Slimer is selling on here. Its manumatic system that takes over the CC buttons and you shift up and down with them. There was also a shift_fast mod created using a switch to control solenoids for the tranny for 1-3. 4th is a harder story to get but the point of the shift_fast mod was for track and nobody used 4th at the track. I started a thread in the All motor forum on an idea I had with a push button shift_fast. It's still being worked on since 4th gear is a b!tch to get the shift. 1-3 work according to the guys that got to wire it up and they are improving on it still. This is not an easy mod and if you no nothing about wiring or how the tranny shifts, don't touch it. If you want to shift then shift from 1-2-D if you feel like it.

Do a google search on VA maximas. Not hard.

atamai5

A night before i dissconected a fuse called A/T Cont because i need these fuse for the T.lights. On the morning i drive my maxima and i notice that the Overdrive button did not work, and i cant acelerate over 2K, the car loose power.

The car throw me codes:
0304 Knock Sensor
0504 Automatic Transmission Communications line
0804 Transmission Control Module

I had a problems before with the battery, i think probably i have a short circuit, because the battery gets drain on the nigth.

Any idea please?

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

lets see. you take out the transmission fuse, then get 2 transmission codes. and you are asking for ideas?

qazplm1999

My max's having click noise from rear left wheel, and when I jack the car up and try to spin the wheel by hand, I can feel friction, not spin freely. Does this mean the brake rotor is warped? Thank you.

shellymac

I am replacing my starter and need to know where the bolts are located to take the starter off the engine? i have already taken the bottom right one off, but need to know......... is the top one smaller? cause i see three bolts.
Thanks!!!!

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Starter is held with two bolts.

maxima985spd

the top one is smaller. Technically there are three bolts. one also hold the power wire onto it. the smaller mounting bolt is directly above to the left of power wire nut.

shellymac

That's good cause that's the one i am working on, just don't know how to get any leverage with that bolt? also, seems like my ratchet is having a hard time fitting in that small space? any ideas? cause on the other one i got leverage with a breaker bar + a small pipe.

2da mizzax

iTrader: (4)

It means your wheels bearings are shot. that or your rear pads are completely gone and you are scraping the rotors (which you should be able to see).

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

You should feel friction from the brake pads dragging a little bit.

Try to twist the wheel (pull on the top of the wheel and push on the bottom). Do it in several directions. If there is any play then the wheel bearing is shot.

Or just take it to a mechanic for diagnosis.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

The rear starter bolt is a little hard to reach - I use a deep socket + 3" extension. My wrench then just fits between the starter and motor mount.

Wear heavy leather gloves so yo can put some uumph into it without risking a major laceration.

Dave

shellymac

i don't have any deep sockets
never knew?