Ineffective Handbrake, How to Tighten
#1
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Ineffective Handbrake, How to Tighten
*Handbrake*
In the past, before my mom, yes my Mom, gave me the Maxima, and before i had my license, i would sometimes forget to release the handbrake, but the car would still move without restriction, and slowely during idle. I didnt think much of it until now.
Lately i've been experimenting with my car and i tryed pulling the e-brake hard, but not completely and my car slowed down.
1st attempt - I was doing about 30-35, and i assumed the tires are supposed to lock up and slide? but didnt.
2nd attempt -I tried it again, this time going a tiny bit faster, and completely pulled it up, and nothing. Just a slow, slow-down.
3rd attempt - I was in a empty parking lot, full stop, pulled the e-brake, hit the gas and turned the wheel. The car is supposed to skid with the rear jumping a bit right? Nope. Just some FWD skid. I quickly disengaged when i didnt feel/ hear anything.
Ok, Now BEFORE you start flaming asking why i need to do this in real life driving, i Dont. I wanted to test to see if my e-brake was properly working.
So, what are some problems i could be facing here?
1 - The ebrake cable loose? - How do i tighten it? (i've searched, nothing)
2 - Brake pads?
3 - ???
Thanks for taking the time to read, if you did.
In the past, before my mom, yes my Mom, gave me the Maxima, and before i had my license, i would sometimes forget to release the handbrake, but the car would still move without restriction, and slowely during idle. I didnt think much of it until now.
Lately i've been experimenting with my car and i tryed pulling the e-brake hard, but not completely and my car slowed down.
1st attempt - I was doing about 30-35, and i assumed the tires are supposed to lock up and slide? but didnt.
2nd attempt -I tried it again, this time going a tiny bit faster, and completely pulled it up, and nothing. Just a slow, slow-down.
3rd attempt - I was in a empty parking lot, full stop, pulled the e-brake, hit the gas and turned the wheel. The car is supposed to skid with the rear jumping a bit right? Nope. Just some FWD skid. I quickly disengaged when i didnt feel/ hear anything.
Ok, Now BEFORE you start flaming asking why i need to do this in real life driving, i Dont. I wanted to test to see if my e-brake was properly working.
So, what are some problems i could be facing here?
1 - The ebrake cable loose? - How do i tighten it? (i've searched, nothing)
2 - Brake pads?
3 - ???
Thanks for taking the time to read, if you did.
#5
you need rear brake shoes. you were obviously driving with the ebrake up worn out your shoes and now you need new ones. im not talking about your pads in the rear either im talking about the shoes inside of your rear rotor.
#6
It would also help if you use a deep well socket. I think it's a 10mm. So just unbutton the hand brake boot then just pull it up high enough to stick the socket in and tighten. I forgot how tight it should be, but I think it should be tight enough such that within 10 clicks your rear wheels should lock. Also you should first check if you need new rear pads or else it's just a temporary fix since you might have to readjust it later.
#7
Originally Posted by jasonv
you need rear brake shoes. you were obviously driving with the ebrake up worn out your shoes and now you need new ones. im not talking about your pads in the rear either im talking about the shoes inside of your rear rotor.
#8
IIRC it's about 7-8 clicks until it's nice and tight. Do NOT 'measure' this on a moving car.
You may have damaged or broken e-brake cables. If you can see the ebrake cable end moving and releasing when you work the handbrake (lift the rear of the car and remove the wheels for this) then the cables are probably fine and only need adjusted.
Dave
You may have damaged or broken e-brake cables. If you can see the ebrake cable end moving and releasing when you work the handbrake (lift the rear of the car and remove the wheels for this) then the cables are probably fine and only need adjusted.
Dave
#11
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wreck as in crash?
When i tested mine when it was loos, i did it in a empty parking lot so...yea i was worried about loosing control too.
After i tightened it, the wheels locked perfectly, screeching was really loud, and the car didnt lost control, just slid in a straight direction.
Thanks for the info, my e-brake works now, fully at about 6-7 clicks.
When i tested mine when it was loos, i did it in a empty parking lot so...yea i was worried about loosing control too.
After i tightened it, the wheels locked perfectly, screeching was really loud, and the car didnt lost control, just slid in a straight direction.
Thanks for the info, my e-brake works now, fully at about 6-7 clicks.
#12
Just don't use your ebrakes for driftind in ramp like I did. I drifted several times( one day I got pissed off at work, another day I just did it for fun) when I was exiting beltway and Yahoooo. But after I got the tires rotated i started to feel the vibration and sh!!y sound from front tires because of the uneven wear. I guess I need to beat the hell out of my tires so it would be an excuse to buy new ones. Just dont use your ebrake for fun unless u wanna change your tires.
#14
Originally Posted by pmohr
A34 and possibly A33 have drum-in-disc setup for parking brake, but the A32 doesn't have rear shoes, parking brake or otherwise. The parking brake cable locks the rear calipers.
good call. in that case check the cable under the car. theres probably an adjustment down there also.
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