B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

normal operating is about 200 iirc. im not sure what the temp is at the top of the gauge. one of the OGs has to know

gchase

I know this is a dumb question but what is the FSM people keep mentioning.
I have the cover off. I set the crank to TDC and I noticed the crank gear has a small dent that lines up with a line on the block. The made me feel better. but the cam pullys don't seem to point to anything in particular. The arrow on the front one is at 4:30 and the back one is at 2:30. My timing chain has one link that is gold. Does that line up with anything ? I can't be off by that much because the car runs ok I just lost my top end power. I never took the chain off just replaced the tensioner and It must have jumped a tooth.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

FSM = Factory Service Manual


I've never done any work to timing chains and have no idea how to help, sorry

hargow

Hey All,

Just bought a used Max, the guy before me put in this security system in it:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+SEC-100S.html

The thing didn't come with a manual or anything and every single time I pop the trunk the alarm goes off. How do I reprogram this trigger? Or even better, will completely removing the alarm system be a big hassle? I'd rather buy an original remote and use the default security system anyways. There are quirks with this one that I don't like (lights don't flash after locking car, can't roll down windows...etc.)

Thanks a bunch,

-ac.

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

Since you know who makes the system you should contact them (Alpine) and ask them how you can change settings on the system. Most people won't be able to help you cuz aftermarket systems vary. So unless someone has that system or one similar they prob won't know

gchase

OK folks,

I finally figured out what was going on with my timing chain. It must have been put on at the factory off by three links. I lined up the cam sprocket arrows to the marks on the case. They both lined up perfectly and in sync. then I checked the timing mark on the crank and it was TDC. The yellow link was off by 3 teeth and so were the darker links on the cams. But everybody was where they should be. I was hoping the crank was going to be a tooth off but it was not.

So now, anybody got any ideas why after replacing the timing chain tensioner I lost significant power above 3000 RPMs ? The only thing I unhooked to get the cover off was the cam sensor. I did unhook the battery, could the ECM get confused ? Before I put it back together anything else I should look at ? It was PITA to get apart.

craigism

The newish one came wrong - no fog control and the connectors did not fit. The are re-sending it. I went to the u-pick junk yard and got one for $15 and it worked fine. I guess I'll try to sell the one I bought and get my $50 back. It was a Fog + Head Light and a Wiper switch.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

i doubt it's 200* since the t-stat is a 180*...but maybe i'm wrong.

NousDefions

iTrader: (2)

Alright, another stupid parts question:

What is the 97-99 fog light cover part called? I'm referring to the plastic piece that fits over the bolts. My car has never that them, and I just realized it when I saw another 97 parked in front of the grocery store today. It'll be easier to figure out where to buy them if I know what to call them.

Thanks!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Just call Dave B at Southpoint Nissan in Texas and tell him what you need. Official name isn't necessary. Dave B knows his stuff, has great customer service, and has the best prices by far! His number is in the Dealer Feedback forum.

FallenOne

iTrader: (17)

Let me ask you a few questions.

1. How deep is your Pocket Book?

2. Is this car modded in any way, or entirely stock?

3. How does the interior look, Leather Seats, Scratchs, Abrasions, Carpet, Ect.?

4. How does the Exterior look, Paint, Scratchs, Ect.?

5. Have you or someone else with some mechanical knowledge taken a look at the car while it was up in the air, and thouroughly inspected the vehicle?

6. Where are you buying this car from? Private party, Dealer, ect.?

7. What is the history of the vehicle? Accidents, Fender Benders, Oil Changes and Services done in Timely Fashion?

IMOP, 6800. For Any 4th Gen. Maxima at this point in time is CraZy. 60K miles or not. Thats alot of money for a 10 year old car. Now if that price was 1K less at the very least. yes, its worth it. But as i stated, 6800 is too much for an all stock, 10 year old car that could have potential problems. Get some more info, make some inquires. Shop Around. Remember These Cars Can Run Forever! My Own has over 230K miles on it! Yes this car may only have 60K on it but an accident or reselling it is going to make it seem like a big waste! You need to take into account how long you will drive this car and how much you do drive it. And at the same time, Gas A'int cheap! can you deal with 26 to the gallon?

hargow

Thanks. Took me a while to find the correct model number, but after that a quick search on Alpine's site brought up the owner's manual which had programming instructions.

One question though: My remote is really worn out, and I'd like to grab a new one off eBay or something. There are other model remotes (still similar) that apparently have the same FCC ID on the back on my remote. As long as the FCCs match up, will I be able to use the different model remote?

Thanks a bunch,
-ac.

JSR15

Hey, you guys know how the new Infiniti G37 sounds right? Well I was wondering what type of exhaust, muffler, etc. mods I could do to attain a similar sound for my 98 I30t.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I saw on eBay a ready-to-install drive side axle (with boots and everything) for $50+shipping. I am think that I maybe get one of those and replace my original axle first, then I can take my time to disassembly mine to figure out what is wrong. Anyone has any experience of how reliable of these on eBay. My main concern is the safety - don't want the wheel falls off when I am in 60m/h speed...

B_Eaze

iTrader: (3)

Do not use ebay when you can get a Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone axle with lifetime warranty for $50-$80. not worth it.

And, you dont need to fix your old axle unless you REALLY want to. Its a pretty messy job

yellowr2000

Ok heres my newbie question:

I'm attempting to resurrect a 99 maxima GXE auto. and whoever had it before I guess "lost" the electrical plug for one of the fuel injectors(the one closest to the passenger headlight to be more exact). I tried replacing the plug with one from a 98 maxima as well as a 96 and both plugs are different than the ones on the 99. The 98 and 96 plug seems "shallower" than the other ones so I dont think its making contact.
I know its not working since i can unplug it and plug it in all day with no change in the way it idles while unplugging the other plugs makes a big difference. I can also smell it running rich and it has a "roughness" to it at idle as well as at higher rpms but a bit smoother. I assume that this is because since the engine is turning faster the other 5 cylinders compensate more for the dead cylinder. I've also got a MAF engine code but could the dead cylinder be giving a "false" reading for that also?

Anyway my question is are my assumptions correct? Do I need the "deeper" plug from a 99 or is something else causing this cylinder to die? I checked the spark plugs but maybe it could be the spark plug wires? I have no idea how to tell if they are bad or not..they "look" good but as I said maybe I'm totally wrong? Any help would be appreciated in solving this mystery!

hoodibaba

Hey guys..I joined this forum and am a newbie..But anyhow here's the story. I bought a 1998 Maxima GLE. Lo and behold it has an oil leak so I asked the dealer what the problem is and he said it was the valve cover gasket..So I got it replaced. Incidentally both front and rear gaskets were bad. But that didn't fix the leak it just made it leak less. When I went back he said the leak was coming from the seal inside the timing chain cover. I had that replaced also. But the leak still remains..I notice that the car leaks after its driven..Do you guys have any ideas where this leak could be coming from? Regardless I am going to take the car back to the dealer and tell the mechanic to fix this dam thing once and for all because its getting frustrating now..I just need some ideas that I can bounce off the mechanic when I see him next week..Thanks alot.

NISSANMAXIMA91

iTrader: (1)

Wow. I hope you didnt have to pay for all of that. I've never seen that a timing chain cover seals go bad. But have him check the power steering pump.

hoodibaba

I paid 250 for all that work..this was done at a neighborhood mechanic..should I just go to the dealer and ask them to tell me whats wrong?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Give whoever did the work one more chance to make things right. Hopefully you paid with a credit card. Dispute it if the mechanic is unwilling to get down to the bottom of your problem and actually solve it. Hopefully you saw that I replied to your same question in the other thread with ideas of where the oil is coming from.

Did you buy the Max from a Nissan dealer? Where you bought it and who did the work is hard to follow.....

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Based on my experience, the dealers will NOT do any better. They usually replace parts one after another, you could be paying 10 times as much...

maxud

I know that the oil pressure sensor is prone to leaking on Maxima's. I have replaced mine. It is located in the rear of the oil pan.
good luck,
Max

Eshelon

I swapped an infinity 300 motor after having a timing chain break in my old motor. Got everything running except it appears that two cylinders are not working. From the front of the car, the front-left and back-middle cylinders do not seem to be firing. I've swapped plugs and the devices that sit on top of the plugs and the symptoms persist in the same cylinder. Are there any common threads between these two cylinders that I'm missing? Any other common reasons I should look at? I think this motor was sitting at the junk yard for 4 - 6 years, juding from the looks of it, maybe fuel injectors? I'm just looking for opinions.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

might be just the lack of spark o fuel but...since it's sat in a junkyard for years how do you know it's not a bad motor? have you torn it down to check??? a motor sitting for so long would need a teardown and at least new gaskets and parts cleaning.

Eshelon

Fuel doesn't make sense since the other 4 cylinders are fine (unless it's fuel injectors?), and spark doesn't work either since I've swapped plugs around and it's still localized to the same two cylinders. As for a teardown and rebuild; I'm not equipped to do that. If I can't figure out an easy fix then I'll probably just junk it, but I'm looking for ideas that would constitute an easy fix, without doing major engine work.

Edit: After doing some research it seems the two cylinders that are not firing are #2 and #3.. don't know if that helps or not.

Edit Again: Also upon inspection of the plugs they did have a light coating of oil on them. No white/burn look to them.

RearEchelon

Just bought a 96 Max GLE from my boss. Right before I bought it, the serpentine belt snapped and was replaced. Now, whenever I turn the AC/Heat on (it's automatic AC), a loud squeal emerges from the engine compartment when I accelerate, getting louder the faster I go. I can turn the AC off and the sound will go away. Then I can turn the AC back on and there will be no sound (usually. Sometimes I have to turn it off/on two or three times to get the squeal to stay gone). The AC still blows cold air. I have been told a multitude of things: belt too tight, belt too loose, compressor pulley bearing bad... Does anyone have a definitive answer?

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

idk man, you got a motor out of a junkyard and put it in your car without checking it. did the yard give you any kind of warranty? it's hard to say what the prob might be since it didn't happen with you. btw if you have some wrenches you're equipped to tear it down. anyways pull those 2 plugs out, leave them plugged into the coils, start the engine and see if they spark. hopefully it's just bad coils.

EDIT: i assume you've done a compression test on the whole motor?

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

adjust the belt tensioner and most likely your problem will go away. you can also spray some belt dressing on.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

yes, unfortunately for you 99 is different than 95-98, and a few bucks more expensive - the oem part numbers are the same though so be sure to specify what year you need when buying parts.

Eshelon

I do not know how to do a compression test. Like I said, I'm in a bit over my head here haha. The junk yard gave me 30 days on the motor. That time is running out. I don't wanna return it after all this effort but I probably don't have a choice if I can't troubleshoot this problem.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

go to a parts store and rent or buy a compression tester. disconnect the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine until it stops starting - no more fuel pressure - take out one spark plug and drop in the end of the compression tester. crank the engine til the needle stops climbing on the gauge - that is your compression and it shouldn't be below 180 iirc. otherwise take the motor back and get your money.

have you checked if you get a spark on those 2 cylinder coils?

Eshelon

Thanks for the how-to on the compression test. I'm pretty sure the coils are OK because I swapped each of the dead cylinder coils with the coil beside it and it worked. I'm also going to hook up a volt-meter to make sure the wiring is still working right. Maybe I'm missing a ground somewhere? We tried swapping in a fuel injector from the old enging (the one that blew up) and it didn't help so I'm crossing fuel injectors off the list.

g-man62

I have a 95 GLE with 199K, a couple of weeks ago it started acting like it was running out of gas or missing very bad. Every time I put it in to gear it would go dead. Later that night it cranked and ran fine, didn’t show a CEL. Later it happened again but gave CEL so I took to my mechanic. He said that the diagnostics code was for the Knock Sensor. He replaced the KS but later that week it began doing the same thing. The next code he said was the Mass Air Flow sensor and he replaced it. Four days later again same problem with no codes he is at a loss on what to do next. The problem is intermittent one second it is running fine next thing you know it’s going dead. HELP!!!

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

i've read somewhere that if the timing chain skips a tooth or more that messes the ecu up and will cause spark problems. i haven't looked into that too much though. make sure that those 2 cylinders have a spark - pull the sparks out and leave plugged into the coil, then star the car and see if they spark - if they don't then i guess it would be a possible timing chain issue. when people replace the tc tensioner the chain will sometimes skip.

allensteiner21

iTrader: (6)

try spark plugs, coils, fuel filter, fuel pump, vacuum leak (?), gunked up throttle body, injector...btw i bet your knock sensor wasn't bad - usually when it throws a code it's something else. most likely your maf might not have needed a replacement either as a lot of times just a cleaning does the trick.
i have the same model and year but haven't had any problems like that before so maybe someone else will chip in to help out better - i'm just guessing.

mistur_sleepyass

This question may seem kind of stupid but...

Is the crank pulley able to close in on it self cutting the power steering belt to shreds?

and since that happened should I have the crank pulley replaced?

this is on a 97 Maxima GLE 5 spd.

Eshelon

Wow... sounds like you might be on to something. Pulled the plugs, left them in the coil, no spark. Switch the coil & plug over from the #2 connector to the #4 connector, got spark. What makes this sound even more likely is the fact that we had to replace the timing chain cover due to it being cracked (most likely due to an accident) which caused a bad clearance between the timing sensor and the cam sprocket. I don't know if you've ever seen the inside of those timing sensors before but it's basically a HUGE mass of very fine copper coil / fiber. That stuff was all caught up in the gears / sprockets. Didn't occur to me at that time to check and make sure the chain didn't skip.... Damn, gotta take that bloody timing chain cover off again *sigh*.

RowzsMax99

Question on engine miss:

I know this is covered somewhere but I'm not seeing an answer specific to my issue. I have a 99 Max that developed over time a slight miss in the engine with the related blip on the tac and my mechanic told me to wait until the CEL came on. It did, and I got a code saying cyl 1 was misfiring. I picked up a new plug and coil and put them both in and problem solved. Or so I thought. Since the plug looked fairly well burnt I thought I would go ahead and change the other 5 and it ran good for about 10 minutes or so and darn if it didnt start missing again. Back to the Autozone and they tell me Cyl 5 is misfiring. So, thinking maybe I got something wrong I took it apart again checked the plug and it seemed fine and put it back together. They cleared the code so the light hasnt come back on yet, but it soon will as its missing again like it did before. By the way, it has also been throwing a KS code as well but I felt it was just a ghost over whatever the problem is going on as I understand the KS would not cause the engine to miss. Any help as to what to do next would be appreciated. I hate to keep buying coils if that is not the problem, but I feel like Im playing "musical coils" right now.
Thanks

Rando

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

what brand of spark plugs are you using?

RowzsMax99

Well I went with what they had, Bosch plat plus. Oddly, whoever last changed them had 3 NGKs in the back and 3 regular Champions in the front. I expected it to run much better after I saw that.