Those aren't the exact conditions.

Does the RPM change at all? Is it like a misfire?

Low speeds, high speeds? Low revs, high revs? Starting off, or when shifting?

 

i got a check enginelight today. got the code checked out and it was the knock sensor and a new one, EGR flow malfunction. do i need a new EGR valve, or can i just clean it?

 

Try cleaning the guide tube before replacing the valve.

 

the guide tube is which one? is it the one on the top? and how should i go about this?

 

It goes from the valve to the UIM.

Take it off, clean it; that's the best way.

Or you could pull the UIM and clean it while it's on the car, but that's much more of a PITA.

 

it happens while in 1st and 2nd gear, usually when starting off. i don't really think the rpm are changing. happens at lower speeds around 5-20 mph

 

Im considering buying a 95 Maxima Auto 112k miles.

Just a little inspection, I noticed it needs a new radiator.

The CEL light is on, the guy said it's not a sensor, but something unimportant: Im gonna find out what exactly he said before I buy.

Also, Airbag light is on, and the pass. airbag cover piece looks like it's popped up a little, like someone was trying to remove it.

The valve covers have some oil residue, and the back one has more. Also just a little light residue from the timing cover.

He said he would take off the cost of the radiator, so he's asking $1800.

I test drove the car. It pulls hard and drives fantastic to me. Im amazed at how much stronger these cars feel than my 92 camry v6.

Here are the pics I got:








Heres one of where the radiator is leaking(the square raised piece edge)



Heres a few of the outside:













I hope Im not image spamming. I just wanted opinions on if I should buy, and if you all see anything bad on the engine.

thanks.

Robert

 

$1800 doesn't seem to bad. Whether or not you want to spend that much on a car that's going to need a fair amount of labor hours to get back to good condition is up to you.

Find out what the CEL is on for, first. You can check the codes yourself for free, only takes 5 minutes.

 

Putting a radiator in isn't a big deal on these cars is it?

Wonder if I should take it to a nissan dealer and get them to do an inspection, for what I dont see.

Can you tell anything by the pics of the engine?

 

15 minute procedure, minus drain/fill/bleed.

 

What the best radiator I can get, I dont want to go cheap here.

btw, did you notice anything that will need fixing by the picks or miles?

 

There's a nice Koyo in the GD section.

Besides the valve cover gaskets, nothing jumps out at me.

Needs a good cleaning though, under the hood, inside, and outside.

 

no i havent done a tune up but i think i will take it in for one this week. ill ask the place about misfiring. thanks for the help!

 

Ill go looksee in a bit.

So it's normal for valve cover gasket leaks on these at 112k? I know it's old, which I suppose anything this old will have gaskets go bad.

Hope the seals are holding up.

Is it a pain to pull the Intake to get the back valve cover? And reading thru threads, Id guess replacing the Knock sensor would be a good idea too?

 

less than $2K for a max is a good deal.

 

speaking of cleaning under the hood, what would you use to do that, anything special?

also, whats the best oil to use? maybe if anyone copuld make a list of the perferred parts that are easy to change like oil, spark plugs, air filters etc. that would be awesome

 

Ok, where do i start.
My 99 Maxima Runs fine, but the check engine light comes on for a few weeks and goes out for a few weeks
I did the self diagnosis and got codes

0201- Ignition Signal Circuit

0707- Rear Heated 02 Sensor

0510- Points to problem with Rear Heated Sensor
This is from the Fault Light Sticky
"0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit

A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.

I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days."

But i didn't get any of these companion DTCs
Our mechanic Cleaned the Crank Shaft Sensor, before he did the car wouldn't start as quickly as it does now, is it necessary to completely change the CrankShaft Sensor?
How would i check the condenser, Harness and power transistor myself.

The rear Heated Sensor is least important, but where online can I buy a good one.

 

Check the FSM, it has detailed diagnostic procedures for all codes.

You can get a sensor from RockAuto, any auto parts store. I would go with an OEM style, not a universal.

Are you on the original coils? That's most likely what's causing the ignition signal code.

 

FSM?
We had to change a coil a couple months ago, because the car would shake when idle, but that problem is gone

 

Factory Service Manual, see my sig.

And the '99s are notorious for coil failures. If they haven't all failed yet, they most likely will.

 

So i should just change them all now, or just ignore the light until the car actually acts up

 

Well you shouldn't ignore the CEL, no.

If I had a '99 with original coils, I'd consider replacing them all to be preventative maintenance.

 

+1

 

UPDATE about CEL light:

Checked the code, it's 0707, which IIRC is the rear o2 sensor (95 max)

Sounds easy to replace, or is it?

He's replacing the radiator before I buy because I dont think the rad will make it to my house without exploding.

 

Correct, rear O2 - http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index....Y1995&DTC=0707

It's no problem, take 15 minutes if it isn't rusted in place. The harness connector snaps into the body right below the driver's seat, and everything can be done from underneath. Just make sure to get some PB blaster or something.

 

How vital is this sensor? Im going to replace it, just will get to it in a few weeks when I have the time.

PB blaster for sure.

And can you make the connection under the car or do I have to pop the console in the car?

 

All done from underneath.

It's useless, basically. All it does is check catalyst efficiency.

 

Turn on the car, turn wheels hard right, set parking brake, turn off engine.

Pop the hood, go out look down into the engine compartment on each side just behind the front wheels, and see if the CV boots are split. Real easy to see if you have the wheels cranked right. These guys have me spooked about CV joints and axles!

 

Man thanks for all who have replied to my questions and others, I'm about to go out and buy a new drivers side fender for 80 $ and I also asked the places if they have rear rocker panels. But from what I heard they aren't even made after market. Does that mean I'm gonna have to make my own bcus mine are rusted.

 

Rocker panels? As in along the bottom of the door?

Or do you mean quarter panels?

 

Some people call them either , the one section that's about 8 inches towards the end of the board going toward the rear tires



the final 8 inches or so , that's what we call rear rocker panels , you can see the line that separates it from the longer part of the board

 

Never seen it that bad on an A32 before. You can buy the entire left side of the car from the back of the fender up to the end of the rear door from Nissan, but not the rocker panels themselves.

Your best bet is just cutting out that entire rusted section and having a body shop weld in some new sheetmetal.

 

I am looking to purchase a Nissan Consult II. When i looked on ebay, they had a few that where around 7k. And then there were a few that did not seem to be quite as.....involved....if you will. I am not suprised at the 7k price fo the "official" Consult II. But is there a computer program i could buy and just use my notebook computer, or am i stuck with the official one?
I have an OBD II scanner, but i would like a consult.

Thanks guys.

 

Nothing is going to do each and every thing that the CONSULT-II can do, but google for those programs.

There's ConZult, I believe that works with the A32.

 

Just joined a few weeks ago. Have a question how hard is it to put a alternator on a 4th gen?

 

Book time is 1.9, it shouldn't really take you but an hour, hour and a half.

 

thanks pmohr. Will see what happens

 

Is there a trick to disconnecting the O2 sensor plugs? Also, is it OK to use dielectric lubricant on the O2 plugs?

 

Push the tab, pull apart

Although you probably have all the connectors with the slide tabs, so slide the tab in until it clicks, then pull apart.

Dielectric grease isn't really a lubricant, it's an insulator. And you don't need it.

 

Wouldn't it be good on the connectors because of condensation or water splash under the car?

As for anti-seize, can you use anti-seize on the o2 sensor threads without affecting the sensors function? I know that stuff gets all over everything if your not careful.