NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
From: orange county NY
Hey all, i new tho the hole posting and forums thing, this is my first one and i have a question about my maxima gle 03. now i don't really know the difference between gens as yo say it! but i got this maxima in July and i love it , but i wanna put a short ram airintak on it and i cant find the site to buy one! i think its call a Frankencar short-ram intake! there are plenty of pics of it on the forum, but im just learning how to use the forum! it would be greatly appreciated if some one could give me the site where to perchise this produck bc everyone seems to talk highly about it! ty verry much. Justin
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8
i just tried to install new parking brake cables on my 99 maxima, but one of the screws for mounting the cable nearest to the front cable snapped. does anybody have any idea how to replace that screw or if it's even possible. it looks like if it is doable i'd have to do it from inside the car.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 52
I have a 95 max. I did the back valve cover today, the car drives good but when i put it in park sometimes it idles very high like i'm pushing down on the gas pedal ?
Last edited by Trin1j23; Dec 21, 2010 at 09:46 PM.
The MAP/Boost sensor is located on the intake snorkel:
I would recommend actually doing diagnostics before assuming that just because there's a MAP code, that it means you need a MAP sensor. Failing that, you can get a MAP sensor easily and cheaply from a junkyard or the classifieds here.
Replace the MAP first (if that's the decision you come to), then clear the codes and check for the KS code later.
I would recommend actually doing diagnostics before assuming that just because there's a MAP code, that it means you need a MAP sensor. Failing that, you can get a MAP sensor easily and cheaply from a junkyard or the classifieds here.
Replace the MAP first (if that's the decision you come to), then clear the codes and check for the KS code later.
Maybe check the wiring for it as well.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 48
From: Mount Prospect, IL
I once more have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I was doing the IACV, MAF, TB, and EGR cleaning today, and so for I'm about to start the EGR. Funny thing is that I found two connections and I have absolutely no idea where they go, looking at threads hasn't really helped.
One is a hose located near the valve cover and I think goes into the EGR and then there is a connection by the MAF sensor, literally the first one right before the MAF sensor connection itself. I took a picture with my middle finger on the connection and the rest of my hand on the hose and they don't stretch far enough to connect. Please, someone help. Thanks in advance.
Well, I think I have found the reason why that one has "failed"
I once more have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I was doing the IACV, MAF, TB, and EGR cleaning today, and so for I'm about to start the EGR. Funny thing is that I found two connections and I have absolutely no idea where they go, looking at threads hasn't really helped.
One is a hose located near the valve cover and I think goes into the EGR and then there is a connection by the MAF sensor, literally the first one right before the MAF sensor connection itself. I took a picture with my middle finger on the connection and the rest of my hand on the hose and they don't stretch far enough to connect. Please, someone help. Thanks in advance.
I once more have a question that I hope someone can help me with. I was doing the IACV, MAF, TB, and EGR cleaning today, and so for I'm about to start the EGR. Funny thing is that I found two connections and I have absolutely no idea where they go, looking at threads hasn't really helped.
One is a hose located near the valve cover and I think goes into the EGR and then there is a connection by the MAF sensor, literally the first one right before the MAF sensor connection itself. I took a picture with my middle finger on the connection and the rest of my hand on the hose and they don't stretch far enough to connect. Please, someone help. Thanks in advance.
For the rubber hose that goes nowhere, it supposed to be like that as its a ventilation hose.
One is a hose located near the valve cover and I think goes into the EGR and then there is a connection by the MAF sensor, literally the first one right before the MAF sensor connection itself. I took a picture with my middle finger on the connection and the rest of my hand on the hose and they don't stretch far enough to connect. Please, someone help. Thanks in advance.
pmohr and others,
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
I just got a 97 maxima. Is a warpspeed header a good one? Direct bolt on to everything else? I'm all stock.
I know the Ypipe gains almost 20hp but how much can you expect out of headers? Or are they not worth it?
I'm looking to do the exhaust 1 piece at a time.
I know the Ypipe gains almost 20hp but how much can you expect out of headers? Or are they not worth it?
I'm looking to do the exhaust 1 piece at a time.
pmohr and others,
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
Check your connections on both coolant temp sensors.
Or just let it idle while in park warming up with the rad cap off
to burp some air out of the system.
Really not worth it unless you have a 6th gen (2004 - 2008)
The headers aren't worth it? Sounds good to me, less money to blow.
Also I know the speakers are 6 3/4" (according to crutchfield)so if you install 6.5" do you need adapters or spacers or anything? I can't find any threads on it.
And I'll need some recommendations on front speakers. Regular or components. Which to get.
Also I know the speakers are 6 3/4" (according to crutchfield)so if you install 6.5" do you need adapters or spacers or anything? I can't find any threads on it.
And I'll need some recommendations on front speakers. Regular or components. Which to get.
Last edited by Gamble; Dec 23, 2010 at 10:33 PM.
So you say, others would disagree.
Now if your looking for the best bang per buck then the Y pipe is the way to go, if your looking to gain the most power possible, then headers are more ideal.
Now the install isnt a seasy as a y pipe and some would feel that alone makes the y pipe the better choice however dynos have showed that the headers yeild 10-15 more whp over the yipe.
Now if your looking for the best bang per buck then the Y pipe is the way to go, if your looking to gain the most power possible, then headers are more ideal.
Now the install isnt a seasy as a y pipe and some would feel that alone makes the y pipe the better choice however dynos have showed that the headers yeild 10-15 more whp over the yipe.
So you say, others would disagree.
Now if your looking for the best bang per buck then the Y pipe is the way to go, if your looking to gain the most power possible, then headers are more ideal.
Now the install isnt a seasy as a y pipe and some would feel that alone makes the y pipe the better choice however dynos have showed that the headers yeild 10-15 more whp over the yipe.
Now if your looking for the best bang per buck then the Y pipe is the way to go, if your looking to gain the most power possible, then headers are more ideal.
Now the install isnt a seasy as a y pipe and some would feel that alone makes the y pipe the better choice however dynos have showed that the headers yeild 10-15 more whp over the yipe.
If your boosted its a different story but NA man its just not worth the trouble.
pmohr and others,
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
My gf just bought a 1999 I30. It seems to take a little longer for normal for the coolant temp gauge to get to the normal position (just about middle) on initial startup and driving around. What's weird, is that in city stop and go traffic, all appears normal and the needle is right in the middle as it should be. Once we get on the freeway and are driving 70mph for a few minutes, the coolant temp needle drops to almost cold. When we get off the freeway and back on to city streets, the needle goes back to the middle.
Another clue. It might be in my head, but it seems her heat is never quit as hot as the heat in both of my Maximas.
I have two theories, but not sure by any means. Any input would be most appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem over my Xmas vacation from work. Thanks in advance.
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 270
From: Thomasville, GA
Mine did that cutting off at stop signs when un-warm thing also,check your fuel filter,give your injectors a cleaning and check your altenater and battery, also put GOOD FUEL in it.( NOT the cheapest at the pump ) I did all that and replaced my plugs it ran like another car.-Good Luck
Fuel filter was replaced about 15k ago. runs fine, long as it doesn't cut off lol. Plenty of power. Battery is good. alt seems fine.
Your pretty much a veteran here but I still gotta ask yah the basics.Did you check an see if the rad and overflow tank are full ?
Check your connections on both coolant temp sensors.
Or just let it idle while in park warming up with the rad cap off
to burp some air out of the system.
Check your connections on both coolant temp sensors.
Or just let it idle while in park warming up with the rad cap off
to burp some air out of the system.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8
hey everybody! **** your conversation! can someone tell me how to replace the bolt threads that hold the rear parking brake cables by the front cable. is it a part that goes in the interior that feeds through to the underbody or will i have to weld new threads onto the underbody. i would really appreciate some feedback. my sanity is on the line. thank you.
What's all this upper/lower oil pan gasket I keep reading about. Anyone have a pic so I can see what I'm getting myself into? I see that labor rates are high, how long does it take to replace both of these?
can someone tell me how to replace the bolt threads that hold the rear parking brake cables by the front cable. is it a part that goes in the interior that feeds through to the underbody or will i have to weld new threads onto the underbody. i would really appreciate some feedback. my sanity is on the line. thank you.
Is there a reason you can't helicoil/timesert/etc or drill and tap for a larger thread size?
The upper should call for several hours, can't look up the labor times ATM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8
i have had 2 4th gens in the past and never knew i could have so much issues out of them till now
. i just pick my 3rd one from a dealer auction. a 97 SE (165k). right off the jump i noticed it was cutting off repeatedly while driving thru for bidding. when i picked it up, i find that it has a bad clutch (feels like when you let the cluch out it engages real slow) now i got the car home and it got real cold the car wont move at all and even worse, it keeps cutting off. 
it starts up fine and runs till the point when its supposed to settle to an idle and then it cuts off.i had codes for 1) absolute pressure sensor 2) MAF sensor 3) evap ccv. i have since replaced the boost sensor (which i believe is the MAP sensor. is this the same as the absolute pressure sensor) and the MAP sensor. i reset the CEL and it didnt come back on till i unplugged the MAF connector while the car was running (coincidence?) the car is still cutting off. went to clean TB and it is clean as a whistle (seems previous owner beat me to it while trying for a fix) TP sensor seems to work fine. i also replaced another sensor wrapped with a tape around the top of the engine cover (looks like a relay) i dont know what else to try and any kinda help in the right direction would be appreciated.
wow that came out long.
thanks guys.
. i just pick my 3rd one from a dealer auction. a 97 SE (165k). right off the jump i noticed it was cutting off repeatedly while driving thru for bidding. when i picked it up, i find that it has a bad clutch (feels like when you let the cluch out it engages real slow) now i got the car home and it got real cold the car wont move at all and even worse, it keeps cutting off. it starts up fine and runs till the point when its supposed to settle to an idle and then it cuts off.i had codes for 1) absolute pressure sensor 2) MAF sensor 3) evap ccv. i have since replaced the boost sensor (which i believe is the MAP sensor. is this the same as the absolute pressure sensor) and the MAP sensor. i reset the CEL and it didnt come back on till i unplugged the MAF connector while the car was running (coincidence?) the car is still cutting off. went to clean TB and it is clean as a whistle (seems previous owner beat me to it while trying for a fix) TP sensor seems to work fine. i also replaced another sensor wrapped with a tape around the top of the engine cover (looks like a relay) i dont know what else to try and any kinda help in the right direction would be appreciated. wow that came out long.
thanks guys.
replaced MAF and boost sensor. cleaned TB and everything recommended.
anything else to try?
like i said it runs fine from a cold start (the high rev part after you just start a car after it sits for a while) but cuts off when its supposed to drop to idle (when its supposed to drop to its regular 750 revs or whatever its supposed to be)
IIRC everything underneath is essentially welded nuts. Do you have a picture of what you're dealing with? By 'replace' do you mean you ripped the threaded portion off of the car, or you've stripped out/damaged the thread, what?
Is there a reason you can't helicoil/timesert/etc or drill and tap for a larger thread size?
There's both an upper (aluminum) and a lower (steel) pan. Removal of the upper requires removal of the Y-pipe, crossmember, compressor and bracket.
The upper should call for several hours, can't look up the labor times ATM.
Which one is the more common one to leak? I'm leaving a decent size in the driveway from sitting a few hours. I hope to god it's the lower one.
Holy ****, seriously? The a/c compressor, bracket, belt, and all that other **** have to come off? If I'm reading this right from searching the upper one has a gasket and the lower is just grey rtv, correct?
Which one is the more common one to leak? I'm leaving a decent size in the driveway from sitting a few hours. I hope to god it's the lower one.
Which one is the more common one to leak? I'm leaving a decent size in the driveway from sitting a few hours. I hope to god it's the lower one.
Neither really tend to leak all that much, generally not enough to leave puddles of oil. Have you gotten underneath to see what is actually leaking? With that amount, chances are more it's the oil pressure switch.
There has been so much snow on the ground and I've been sick so I haven't had a chance to look yet. Do you have a pic of the oil pressure switch and know what size socket to use? It's cold as **** out there right now so I want to get it done as quick as possible if that is the problem.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8
IIRC everything underneath is essentially welded nuts. Do you have a picture of what you're dealing with? By 'replace' do you mean you ripped the threaded portion off of the car, or you've stripped out/damaged the thread, what?
Is there a reason you can't helicoil/timesert/etc or drill and tap for a larger thread size?
Is there a reason you can't helicoil/timesert/etc or drill and tap for a larger thread size?
i just got it taken care of though, i brought it to mineke and they welded a new thread where the old one was for 40 bucks. midas wanted to replace the exhaust because they "couldn't get to the thread without dropping the exhaust and it was so corroded that it could be severely damaged" the exhaust does need to be replaced but i knew that there was no reason for them to have to drop it.
anyway i'm looking to do a lot of restoration work over the summer so if anybody is familiar with the body's construction, i'd appreciate if you could pm me. the threads for securing the heatshield also snapped. i'd still like to know how the original threads are attached to the car.
There has been so much snow on the ground and I've been sick so I haven't had a chance to look yet. Do you have a pic of the oil pressure switch and know what size socket to use? It's cold as **** out there right now so I want to get it done as quick as possible if that is the problem.
I actually just swapped mine out a few days ago, there was a constant stream of oil coming from it while the engine was running. Took maybe 10 minutes, from parking to test drive.
You can either use a sending unit socket, or a 1 1/16" deep 12pt. I just bought the socket while I was at the parts store, an excuse to get another tool to sit unused in my box. Only ~$6 at AZ.
The way the switch it made, it doesn't have normal hex flats, but rather lobes. As above, a 12 point socket will take it off, but the sending unit socket is the 'correct' way.
Picking up my 98 this week, has 90k on motor/160k on chassis. Just wanted to see what things I should check for wear and tear that would need replacing soon. When I drove the car, everything literally felt fine. Clutch had a nice firm feel, brakes were just re-done, car shifted like butter...but I'm not too mechanically inclined so that is why I am checking. I will make a 3 hour road trip every 3-4 weeks and want to make sure the car can do it with ease. A synthetic oil change is first on my list so far
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 46
Ok, So as i speak im freezing my **** off in my car trying to figure this stupid BOSE crap out. Yes ive search and looked at the audio thread. I bought the metra 7551 harness wired it up and all that good stuff, yet my new head unit is not turning on... I went color for color and grounded the spare ground but still nothing. If some one could please help me or post a link that is useful, Ps. its a 99 maxima se limited thank you
Should only need 3 wires to turn on. Power/Accessory which are typically red and yellow and ground which is always black. Check those and the fuses. Do you have a multimeter or test light?
Did you solder each connection?
Did you solder each connection?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
Need help - i look here often for help but i've never posted. I'm changing oil today in 99 SE 5-Speed (223K mi) and the oil looks thicker than usual and has lots of tiny bubbles in it. It appears like another fluid is mixing with the oil. I changed the manual trans oil about a month ago, but i wouldn't think that has anything to do with it. I have noticed coolant leaking on the driveway - appears to be coming from the main crank pulley on the lower front of the engine. Could coolant be leaking into the oil in this area? if so, what's my move?