Why would you want the high beams to shine on the ground? If you want close and low light, that's what the low beams are for...

If you adjust them that low, you're also going to severely affect the adjustment of the low beams. If you have any sort of safety inspection in your state, you're likely to fail with them that far out of the required adjustment.

 

well, my ban has finally been lifted, but i can't complain as it was my own fault. anyway... soo my problem is this. the reason my car drives fine during the day and not during the night is because during the day my lights are off and at night they're on. so in other words when i am driving and lets say i'm doing maybe 60 mph? my car is in the correct gear n once i turn my lights on it drops to 3rd gear and stays there. i did a TCM check n no codes came up. ECU check n i got a transmission range circuit malfunction? the code is in the previous post bc i cant find where i wrote it down right now. umm idk what to guess, anyone got ne intake on this?

 

Well I did my research on replacing the serpentine belts after the fact and I busted the tension adjuster. I looked around and found auto zone, napa and advance auto did not sell this part. Is replacing this a diy or should I throw in the towel and bring it to a shop? If i did not touch the bold on the idler pulley can i continue to drive the car?
Thanks all

 

 

Today changed front struts, however couldn't figure out how to jack up the rear of the car other than on the rear axle which I read you can't do when changing struts. Anyone can tell me the correct method?

 

It's fine to jack the car up by the beam, but you can't easily support it there. Why not use the pinch welds as you normally would?

If you just got off of a ban, why are you post whoring?

Everything is a DIY if you have the tools or experience.

If the alt/AC belt is still tensioned fine then yes, you could drive the car.

Post the code.

 

i have a maxima 96 with about 170k miles on it. i was wondering what oil i should use and how much i need to put in. mechanic told me to get synthetic? should i? does 10w30 synthetic work?
also while im at this, is it safe to do seafoam on my car? and any idea why my brake light would be on? it turned on about 2 weeks ago. my brake pads were changed a few months ago so yeah...any help is appreciated! thanks

 

Here's my question, and I believe it to be pretty difficult. I have no where else to turn but forums.

ok, so i have an automatic 97 maxima. the problem i am having is my tachometer is completely radical, from one end of the rpm range to the other pretty much always. (unless its extremely hot outside or raining sometimes?) it actually drives pretty good, other than a shutter from what seems like about 50mph to about 60mph. my check engine light is on and it reads:

Code: P0325 | Description: Knock Sensor[/url]

and

Code: P0105 | Description: Absolute Pressure Sensor[/url]


me and my pops have done everything we could it seems. i'm out of ideas. any thoughts?

thanks in advance, if you need any additional info, let me know. i love my maxima, i'd hate to see it go because i cant get it through emissions.

 

From the Fluids and Lubricants section:
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...viscosity.html
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...motor-oil.html

How to change oil
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/511

Your engines oil capacity is in your user manual, hopefully you have it. I believe it is 4 L without filter change and 4.5 L with filter.


As for your brake light, check the brake fluid level. Whoever changed your pads may have inadvertantly forgot to top off the brake fluid. Or you could have a leak in the system. Also make sure your parking brake is completely disengaged before you go nuts looking for other things



Haynes manual is a good investment if your gonna be doing some routine maintenance yourself

 

What have you done?

Did you change your knock sensor and your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor? Make sure all harnesses are connected and wiring/harnesses are intact and not damaged before you change sensors

 

we checked the map and the knock sensor for continuity and they were both good? so that would mean they both are in working order correct?

 

You checked the wiring for continuity? The knock sensor should have a resistance of about 4470 ohms (I think) not sure about the MAP sensor though. If your sure ur knock sensor is good then that means ur engine is knock.

I'm actually using my phone right now but if u give me a few to get to my computer ill check for u

 

I can't remember what we have checked wiring wise. but we did check the actual knock and map sensor to factory ohm readings through the maxima book.

i mean the thing runs fine. from what we have gathered over looking through all this trying to figure out whats wrong is that we may have a bad ground somewhere in the engine bay. because i cant imagine why my tach would be flipping out other than possibly a bad ground. what do you guys think?

 

CEL ECU check
--------------
P0100 MAF VAF CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
P0705 TRANS RANGE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

TCM check
-----------
0505

 

thanks for the links and answers. the fluid seems to be fine and the first thing i checked was the parking brake. so thats not it. im thinking it might just be a sensor/light malfunction if thats possible. i dunno

 

I just put in a BOMZ Racing short ram intake into my 98 SE. The only thing is that the two larger hoses arent long enough. Is there anywhere to get a longer hose? It came with a red hose about a foot long but it doesn't really fit anywhere on the actuall intake? maybe im just over looking something?

 

Hi! I used to have a 1998 Nissan Maxima which used to have a problem with the o2 sesor which would result in check engine lighting on/off about 1 month apart.
Now I have a 1999 Infiniti I30 which has very similiar design and I think I am having the same problem.
Is there a known fix to this issue?

Please reply if you suffer('ed) the same symptoms even if you did not find a solution.

 

I think the tach and your codes r completely seperate issues
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...dle-drugs.html



Good readings don't always ensure a good sensor. How's your oil level? Hopefully not low. how old is your knock sensor? If you don't hear knocking coming from your engine then its probably a bad knock sensor, hopefully its just a bad knock sensor. 500 - 620 Kohms is correct reading

Your MAP sensor may be bad too. Before you change that check that ALL your hoses in your engine bay are connected. Did you remove any to get to something and reconnected it incorrectly?


You may have to check for continuity from the harness to the ecu, your wiring may be damaged which would cause the same issues as a bad sensor


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...mittently.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...light-lit.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t-staying.html

 

I would just go to Advance Auto, Autozone, NAPA etc and try to find a hose. Even home depot may have something. Can't really help cuz I don't know the size of the intake you got unless you post a pic of it in your engine bay

At least one of your O2 sensors is near death, needs to be changed. pull the code and change the correct one

How to pull code:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrSAtjFPI

then put it in here (both courtesy of pmohr):
http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/

You'll prob need an O2 sensor socket you can grab one from Autozone. Sensor location on exhaust Y pipe:

 

I've had my '96 since '02, and I've never seen my low-fuel indicator, either. Last time it looked REAL low (below the E), and still no light. Makes me wonder how accurate the gauge is, and how low you can run the tank before running out.

 

most likely burnt bulb in cluster. remove cluster and change bulb.

http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F

 

My oil is good man, and the map sensor we replaced because it was cracked and it did no good. i dont know what the deal is... im pretty sure my dad has gone through the entire wiring harness, but i cant be sure he looked through the entire thing, and my uncle and me checked both map and knock for continuity and read the ohms to what the book said?

i wonder if there is a way i could get autozone or someone to hook a new knock sensor up before i buy and see if it fixs everything, the problem is with that.. is:

1: the knock sensor is so hard to get to.
2: if they wont do that, then i would have to go on a limb and buy it and they are like $125 or so.

im pretty sure it is "an open circuit" problem. which i dont know if that is a ground, or if that is like theres a wire cut in the harness or what. but it is so freaking hard to pinpoint

we have taken it to people and they have had no luck. I mean i wonder if i could pick up a wiring harness from a junk yard man? i am at wits end with this.

i have to fix this thing, i love this car, the thing is we bought it, and we drove it home and when we cranked it again the light came on, so im pretty sure the people that had it before us definitely knew about the problem cleared the code and sold it to us. because it drives fine? so you wouldnt notice anything wrong with it. which i mean i cant complain the thing has a ton of miles on it and it was bought as a car for me to drive because i wanted a car instead of an suv. but we bought it thinking the only thing that was wrong would be the 200k miles.. so now the problem is it wont go through emissions, and i want the problem fixed.

what gets me is the shutter it has in it too, i mean it drives fine but there is a shutter in it at a certain point when accelerating unless you just accelerate past that point. its weird to explain but i dont know if that problem is because of the short in the wire or whatever is wrong with it..

helpppppp its driving me crazy guys kjhfjlkf

 

The knock sensor code will make your car run in open loop mode and could cause the stutter. I shoulda mentioned this before but wasn't thinking, the best way to find out with out buyin a new sensor is to go buy a resistor thats about 550 kohms and place it into the harness. drive for a bit and see if the knock sensor code comes back up. If you need a new sensor ebay has OEM knock sensors for ~ $50

removal is not that bad if you do it pmohr's way
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2nta...C2C64F&index=0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPIMO...C2C64F&index=1

I'm not sure how the MAP sensor affects your cars performance. Start there maybe pmohr or the Wizard can chime and fill in the gaps

 

how does that resistor deal work? i've never heard of that before. how would i place it in? and do you mean that it would remove the code? or is it testing to see thats where the circuit is running on loop i assume?

 

ECU recognizes the sensor as working via the voltage sent back from the sensor, the resistor simulates a working sensor. When you put it in you just wanna make sure its contacting the same leads the sensor would if it was plugged in the harness. It should not be throwing a knock sensor code if the resistor is in correctly, if it is then its most likely your wiring.


If you just bought this car I suggest you contact the seller and let him know that your aware he sold you the car under false pretenses and get some money back

 

i need some major help asap. so i changed my vc gaskets and tube seal. reinstalled everything and tripled check to see that all my vacuum lines were connected right started the car it cranked but it shut off throws a blow off sound notice the egr had no gasket can it be possible that the car wont star cuz off the gasket missing from the egr or is there another reason? 95 max

 

If there's a major vacuum leak there, then yes, the engine may not run well or at all.

As for 'another reason', there can be many reasons.

Codes? Does it run if you give it gas?

 

it does stay on if i give it gas and when the rpm's drop it blows off and shuts down i have my engine opened again now.

 

Hi guys,

My right front strut mount is bad, I can tell because the strut shaft isn't centered in the mount anymore, and when I took the strut out I could see that the rubber part of the mount has separated from the metal part.

My problem is, I cannot get the center top hat nut off, because the whole shaft rotates with the nut. The strut threads have a cutout that is supposed to prevent the shaft from rotating, but apparently the mount or shaft is rounded off. I tried gripping the very top of the shaft with vise grips, but I just can't get a strong enough grip, and the strut just keeps turning. Any advice? Do I need to get an impact wrench?

 

When it drops to where? Does it go down to a specific RPM and then die, or does it just drop all the way down to 0?

An impact is useful for doing suspension, if you can get a hold of one it'll likely take it right off.

Have you tried holding the tip of the strut piston and turning the nut with a wrench?

 

I haven't tried that because I was afraid of messing up the threads. But now that I think about it, how would I even do that? The nut is recessed in the mount, so I need a socket to get at it. The socket would cover up the threads, wouldn't it?

 

I've heard of people cutting open a garden hose and wrapping it around the piston. I would try putting a LOT of masking tape on the piston and and throw the vice grips on there

 

While changing my y pipe, i stripped my exhaust manifold stud. Is there any write up of how to remove to change stud\ manifold

 

it just dropped to zero and it shut off. but i went and bought the egr gasket and placed it on and it started up right away i even got the gas kight to work now lol. here is the thing... the IM was clogged where the egr goes to i ended up unclogging it and the top of the egr and that is where the blow off sound was coming from. so now its fix.

 

Im looking at buying a NISSAN MAXIMA JDM N1 CATBACK EXHAUST exhaust system for my 98 maxima SE, I was just wondering if I needed a sensor pipe as well. The seller says that the 98's may need an extra sensor pipe but he's not sure, so im trying to make sure

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nsor-pipe.html

 

Part has to be purchased at nissan. And as stated above if you have not touched the nut on the pulley you can drive it. I brought it to the shop since I did not have the time and tools to complete it.

 

okay then so when i first got the car i had P0150 O2 sensor P0325 Knock sensor, P0110 intake air temp and P0705 which is the inhibitor. so i replaced the KS and ran the ecu decoder didnt feel like spending 25 to get the codes. and now i have 0201, 0304, and 1101, but wait 0304....isnt that ks!!!!!!! what is going on? need some help again sorry

 

the OD light does not come on unless i push the button, so that's working fine. i did the diag. test and it came out to be 0505 which means no failure found. but a few days before i plugged it into a ODBII and i got P0100 MAF VAF CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION P0705 TRANS RANGE SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION i replaced the MAF the other day, idk if that was the right move, that's what this mechanic guy i asked said to do. and also the reason i waited soo long to respond back was because i was doing a trial run with the car for 9 days straight. the car will shift 100% fine into all gears during the daytime and once the sun sets, it won't go past 3rd gear. idk why or how this is possible but if anyone has any idea's please lemme know. thank you. p.s. As far as maintence... i don't have the money to get it fully checked out or maintained correctly so i'm trying to do everything on my own =/

 

i bought a 95 ignition switch for my max will it fit and if it does will it work??