no i havent cleared them because the car isnt running like it was before the procedure and what will clearing them do???? will it make the prob go away

 

...no, clearing the codes won't magically solve your problem.

Clear the codes, then take action based on which codes return.

 

send me the link plz

 

For what?

 

clearing the codes ( i need to be very specific i c) for a 4th gen 97

 

I only ask because the code clearing procedure is in the very same sticky as checking the codes, if you actually read the thread.

 

 

i resetted my CEL and got them checked they are still the same codes

 

So they all came back immediately?

If so, you should start checking all of the connectors for water, corrosion, or anything else that may have gotten in there.

 

yup i put the car in drive and the light came right back on but when i use ur decoder they all say low or high voltage from such and such sensor to ECM ???? and my O/D button doesnt work anymore

 

So have you not followed my prior advice?

 

I installed an aftermarket deck in my 95 Maxima. It does not have a Bose system, just the plain speaker system.

I've crawled through the archives looking for a hint but seems like no one else had this issue.

When I wired everything up to the adapter the deck wouldn't power on. It seems like the factory harness is a bit different than the aftermarket harness I have, I've used this type of harness in several Nissans before with no issues.

I had to tap 2 wires into one to get power to the deck. Now the stereo loses all presets when I shut the car off.

Is there something a bit different with the 95s? I've put in countless stereos before but this one got me scratchin my head.

The previous owner had a constant 12v ran from the engine bay to the old deck that was in there... (but the wire eventually had its insulation worn away - I've removed all that)

Thnx...

 

Exactly which 2 wires are you connecting?

If you wired up constant and switched B+ properly, it should power on fine and save the presets as well.

 

Whats the best short throw shifter for a 96 maxima ? just seeking input !

 

B+ you mean blue positive?

I'm going to pull the deck here soon because I can't remember exactly.

 

B&M.

B+ == Battery positive.

The blue wire should be your switched power, purple is the constant.

 

ok guys, here it goes! I used to have a 95 maxi, but I wrote it off (young n stupid)!!

Now I want another maxima...ive been doing my research and these forums are a LOT of help!! Now I'm stumped and need the pros opinions!! Here are the 2 cars I narrowed my search down to...

1) 1999 Nissan Maxima SE - Gold on Champagne cloth - 2nd owner (Father and Son) - Clean Records - all service records - 5spd - no bose radio - 200k KMS (not miles) - a bit of rust in the wheel wells, otherwise very well maintained...asking 3250$

2) 2001 Nissan Maxima SE 20th AE - Dealer Sale (bought from auction) - Black on Black - Clean Records - 5 spd - 200k KMS - clean car, as you all know, very sexy black on black...asking 4750$

My issue is, i told myself I won't spend more than $4gs...hence my dilemma!! Am i being stupid for even considering the 99 or am i being immature for trying ignore my budget?

What are the opinions of the bosses on here? Is it worth the extra 1500$ for the 5th GEN or will the 99 suffice for now?

Please throw some help my way!!

thanks in advance for your thoughts...

Cheers,

- Aspiring Maxima Owner

 

I'd go with the AE, personally. Not a fan of the '99s in the least.

You should be able to find a 95-98 for under 4 grand quite easily, around here there are several dozen in the $1-3k range.

 

Ya we have a lot here between $2-3k, but i want a clean car! My issue is I don't know the previous owners of the AE...so i have no idea how well it was taken care of!!

I'm also trying to keep the kms as low as possible on the car, saw a few in the 150k range, but one had a horrible torn leather interior and the other had a lot of ugly patching on the paint.

I am wondering about reliability, which car, in your opinion, would be best for a younger driver. aka, not much to spend on repairs!

thanks for the quick response!!

 

Nothing on the harness from the car (the one that's part of the car) shows any power when the car is off. (using a test light)

Turn the key forward, but not starting, blue on the car harness gets power. (which corresponds to red on my stereo adapter.)

I have my Panasonic's yellow "BATTERY 15A" wire connected to this red wire, along with the deck's own red wire indicating ACC. Which goes through the adapter and connects to the car's Blue wire.

Not sure I see a Purple on the factory harness in the dash... either way, no wire from the factory harness shows any power when the car is off.

 

Check the 'ELEC PARTS' fuse, upper right corner of the fuse box. If this fuse is fine, then there's a break somewhere between the fuse box and the radio harness connector.



The constant B+ wire (purple) should be directly underneath the clip of the white harness connector for the radio, pin 6 (with the clip facing up, the lower right corner of the connector with the blue/yellow wire is pin 1, on that same row pin 6 is three over).

 

Thanks! For anyone's information this must have been a product of the previous owner's stereo install. That fuse was blown probably when I bought the car. The car was sold to me with a "dead" alpine deck. I pulled the wire he had run through the door grommet to the battery for constant power because the insulation broke from age and wear and ground against the car. Never thought to check that fuse in the panel.

I'm guessing that this also blew the fuse in the panel like you indicated. So I'm putting the wiring back the way it should be and I'll know soon enough if everything is back to norm.

Cheers,

lbrowne

 

Obviously I did not call or I wouldn't be asking. I wanted a price range for an idea of whether or not I should buy them and have them painted or if I should just wait til I could find the parts the color I need before going through the time of calling a bunch of places.

 

no one here can give you a price range. you have to do the foot work yourself.

 

ok so now iv got every sensor in and acconted for theres no more loose ends and the car still wont turn over. checked the plugs and the coilpack and theres no power even coming to them i cant get what would cause that i know the harness is good. what if any sensors do i have to swap from the 96 engine into the 94 engine to make it work because the cam sensors are slightly different id post pic to show exactly but its 2 am and my cameras broke so im tryin to be descriptive as i can. the fuel pup works its actually backfired a few times when we jumped the starter and once the backfire actually caused the engine to turn over but then it just died right out because of the spark plugs not working. idk what could be causing this everythings connected as far as i can tell/ are there any saftery features in the car because right now as it stands on the lifts the clutch hasnt been primed because we replaced it and the radiator itsnt hooked up and filled but i figured since it will only be started for all of 2 seconds when it turns over it shouldnt overheat so that shouldnt be an issue. and the axles are out right now. would any of this cause the car not to start?

amd pm a side note if the cars werent different OBD models y would the 96's ecu read nothing on the dashboard and the 94's read a check engine light when i plug it in? any help is greatly appreciated and anyone that leads me to starting this car gets a big medal in my book because this is way over my head now and i have to get this done asap.

 

what?!!

what is the problem with the car?

 

Again, it's not a '94 model year engine; if it was, it'd be a VE or VG.

What do you mean the earlier ECU 'read a check engine light' when you 'plug it in'?, and the later 'reads nothing'?

They are both OBD-II compatible. I don't see why you fail to grasp this, or fail to grasp that it is not a '94 engine.

So you're saying that the coils aren't getting triggered to fire, or they're not even getting the B+ they should be? Two entirely different things.

Are we to assume that you've checked all of your fuses and relays?

Also, did you sand down the mating surface between the bellhousing and block before you installed the trans?

If you're looking for help with a problem such as this, you should really look into proper spelling, sentences, and paragraph structure; they help readability immensely.

 

so because i have a spare VE 5spd transmission sitting on the floor of the garage, its question time. Will the VE tranny bolt up to my VQ motor? if so, i know I'll have to get the 4th gen shift rods and what not, but if the tranny works, why spend extra.

 

No.

 

Where is cylinder 1?

Replacing a coil pack and spark plug will potentially fix engine misfire?

 

Standing at the front of your car, it would be the back left corner

 

thanks

 

k thanks. figured it was worth a shot to save some money

 

ok im sorry i cant be as in detail as i or anyone else here would like but iv solved some of the old issues and now some new ones have arose. injectors and spark plugs are working fine now i got the car to actually start tonight with the help of some starter fluid but it didnt last that long.. reason being i have no rpm readout on the tach on my gauge cluster so somethings not right i dont know if its a sensor or which one at that i thought i swapped all the the major ones liek the crankshaft and camshaft but i could be wrong is there anything else besides those sensors that wouldnt allow me to get an rpm reading from the car?

 

so i just had the worst oil change of my life(advance auto was involved wrong parts, stuff got werid, drainpan plug forgotten to put in...)
but while i was under there i noticed i have an oily substance EVERYWHERE, ive had a PS leak since i bought the car that i have been chasing all summer but it keeps getting worse, also recently my oil pressure light has been turning on.

Question, Above the passenger LCA and Inner CV boot is some sort of contraption that has 2 silver shielded hoses running to it, as best i could i trace the leak to that. is that my PS pump or what? oil pump? whatever is it can i fix it without taking out the motor?

 

I am changing engines from a 95 and putting it in a 96. I have changed most of the sensors and the intake manifold to acomidate the additional; sensor on the throttle body. I am able to turn the engine over and have spark. I placed a noid sensor on the fuel injector connector and have a weak flash. If I snap the throttle body intake open and closed I get a quick brite flash on the noid and the motor will try to start . The fuel pump runs and the rail has pressure any idea where I might look next. I have a spare ECU but the results are the same when I plug it in. The ignition packs fire. It is the injectors that are giving me fits.

 

I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima. My emissions light and air bag light would stay on all the time.gave me. The mechanic I have been using for years is an #authorized emissions repair garage" In MA you can only use a authorized mechanic for emissions problems.

I took it to my mechanic and below is this report

scanned computer found codes. PO325-knock sensor problem (bank 1) and PO136-02 sensor (B1S2). erased these on 8/19/09. I drove about 300 miles and went back on 9/3/09

Report on 9/3/09 there were no codes actually set, but 325 was pending and several readiness monitors had not reset. We were able to get rid of air bag light.

I drove another 500 miles and went back to get my inspection sticker. I failed the emissions test.

Report said
catalyst monitor NOT ready
catalyst heater monitor NOT supported
evaporative system monitor Ready
secondary air system monitor NOT supported
a/c system monitor NOT supported
O2 sensor monitor NOT ready
O2 sensor heater monitor Ready
Exhaust Gas recirulation (EGR) monitor NOT ready

drove the car another 700 miles went back for inspection and failed for the same reasons above.

I only have 2 weeks left to get my inspection sticker. What do you suggest.

 

I just bought a 96 five speed and it has issues . I need some knowledgeable input. It seems to want to spit and sputter when you accelarate. It doesnt do this til around 4 grand on the tach. I cant even feel the complete power of the car. The guy i bought the car from has reciepts for the following. Knock Sensor , Crank shaft sensor , Harmonic Balancer , All the belts , Etc. He says he replaced the plugs and stuff also. The car has about 240k on it but i got it at a steal. Please help me out with some suggestions. I checked the plugs today and they look pretty new. Thanks in advance!!!!!

 

Check for codes first. then check/test the coilpacks. Somewhat common problem on these cars.

 

Ive been told that in maximas you need to run a specific kind of plug .Is this true and if so what kind, and also would it spit and sputter with wrong plugs ? Ive heard you need NGK platinums or something equivalent. Thanks for the quick reponse.