Well, I did have my front exhaust tube down when I did it, but I don’t think you actually have to. However, I have pretty small hands so I guess not everyone can fit in there. It’s not hard to take down the front exhaust if you have to. There are 8 bolts, and it only takes me about 10 minutes. I use a 3/8” drive with a 9” extension + a swivel + a deep 14mm socket on the back three bolts. It helps to put a little masking tape on the swivel to keep it straight enough to get it on the bolts. I remove the swivel for the front 3 bolts and the middle to holding the support are 12mm and easy to reach.

 

Alright, gotta an issue. I was in the process of changing my alternator, i was about to remove the ac compressor and one of the top bolts snapped off. Not only did it snap off but the rest of it bent to the left which is also not allowing me to slide compressor forward to get to the alt bolts. Any suggestions? Its been like this for a week because the weather sux but if i don't get it fixed tomorrow I'll just bring it to the shop

 

Pry the compressor off of the bolt, then get the remainder of the bolt out with whatever method you deem necessary.

 

Thanks... needed somebody with a clear head, probably wouldn't have thought of that

 

need help i got a check engine light on i took it to autozone and they gave me 2 codes p0130 it says air fuel ratio sensor 1 bank 1 circuit probable cause open or short circuit condition,poor electrical connection,faulty af 1 bank 1 sensor. the second code is p1105 it says pressure switch solenoid valve so can anyone help me please thanks!!!!!

 

O2 sensor is most likely gone. Thats the one closest to the firewall i believe.


MAP sensor issue. Do a quick search P0130 or 1302

 

Well starting to get to the point of giving up! Bought this 95 Max with a blown head gasket in the hopes of pulling the motor and dropping in a motor out of an 98 Infiniti with only 42,000 miles. This car is really starting to become a thorn in my side. I am now in the process of taking the rusted out rad support off and installing the new one, when I notice a bit of frame damage masked with a good bit of bondo. Now Im not really afraid of the frame damage and driving the vehicle after its been repaired and laser lined, but the process of removing the rad support, towing the vehicle up to the body shop and getting the frame fixed then towing the vehicle home, after its been sitting up there for two weeks or so! Thats just too much of a hassle that I really dont want to get into. So I am either looking at selling the vehicle as a parts vehicle or a project and selling both the low mileage motor and the original motor with the blown head gasket. I really dont have the time to part this car out, which sucks as the car is pretty solid body wise, the leather seats are clean with no rips. The car is just gonna need alot of time and work that I dont really have anymore.
If I cant sell the vehicle as a parts vehicle/project, I guess that i will just scrap it as I should get pretty close to what I bought it for. Let me know what you guys think. I really hate that i have to do this as I was pretty pumped about putting this car together...but its just proving to be too much for me right now.

 

Was wondering if anyone has ever installed Rota Torque rims on their Max.
I'm looking at specifically these specs

17x7.5
5x114.3
+48 Offset

Will these work?

Thanks.

 

I'm not really sure what your looking for here. If your looking for advice you basically named your options, its up to you whether you feel like droppin the engine it or not. Sellin it for parts probably won't get you much of a return on your investment either. Only thing I could suggest is checking the market and seeing who much you could get for it. If your not comfortable with doin the swap get and haynes manual, FSM and read these, even though its not the same engine theres more than enough info I believe:

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/4...swap-info.html

http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...-will-fit.html

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 

I guess you would call that venting. I did list my options, you are correct, I guess I was looking for an opinion(s) or encouragement to go either way. I do have it listed just to see what kind of response I will get. If it doesnt sell I will probably just quit complaining about it and get my *** back to work in the garage. Just a sh!tty day!

 

I just want to ask a simple question. How do you adjust the speedometer on 1995 Max.

 

You don't.

 

Couldn't get the AC compressor off the bolt with the prybar or crowbar Got enough room to remove the alt though. I might remove the compressor mount or take a sawzall to the bolt. That doesn't work I'll probably bring it to Kevin next week.

 

need help i got a check engine light on i took it to autozone and they gave me 2 codes p0130 it says air fuel ratio sensor 1 bank 1 circuit probable cause open or short circuit condition,poor electrical connection,faulty af 1 bank 1 sensor. the second code is p1105 it says pressure switch solenoid valve so can anyone help me please thanks!!!!!

 

yea i changed the oxygen sensor closest to the firewall but the light never came off

 

yea i changed the oxygen sensor closest to the firewall but the light never came off, man i been dealing wit this issue and i cant get it fixed and my inspection is bout to come up this month i was thinkin bout clean out the egr tube but i dont what else to do

 

So Ive been casually browsing for exhausts for my 98 Max SE and I see a lot of cheap stuff and a lot of expensive systems, just wondering if anyone has any input on what brands or types of exhausts are affordable, also looking into lowering the car, with that I have the same basic question. So whats most beneficial and whats good/bad.

 

Some exhaust info. Cattman (best), Budget and Warpspeed also make AM exhaust. Check this thread
http://forums.maxima.org/4652687-post12.html

Suspension info
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...n-updated.html

 

I am having winter problems with my car and it seems to be overheating a little. Does anyone have a recommended antifreeze/coolant for a 99 maxi SE?

 

What exactly do you mean by "winter problems"? If your car is overheating it most likely has nothing to do with the coolant your using, unless your using something your not supposed to be using. Is your coolant level low? Is coolant "disappearing" after you have filled the overflow bottle or radiator?

without any info I suggest you check your thermostat. Probably stuck closed

EDIT: just noticed you said a little. still need more info? is it close to overheating? is your coolant really low in the overflow bottle?

Coolant info:
http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...look-like.html

 

Hey,
My name is James and I got a 98 Maxima about a year ago and I recently found time to fix it up. I got a supercharger added in, but the transmission and coil packs started to go. Is this a natural thing that happens? Is there anyway I can reinforce the engine or trans so that it won't happen as much?
Thanks

 

Regarding the coilpacks, same thing happened to me. Coilpacks died soon after getting boosted. After I replaced them, been fine ever since.

For the tranny, you'll need a good oil cooler and the valve body mod to keep your tranny from wearing out too quickly.

 

*hey guys i have a major question right now ok so i R&R my alternator a few weeks back also the belt. everything was pretty straight forward. after a few days though when ever its a cold start it has that screeching noise at start up. also i noticed the belt tensioner can be moved with just a hand turn with out using a 14mm.

*also my idle drops from time to time sometimes it'll be at 700rpm other times at 600rpm and my CEL turns on and off from time to time also i see my dashlight dim a lil bit when i roll 2 windows up but not when i roll them down also when i turn on my turn signal when they blink the dash lights dim a bit. is it ok for them to dim a lil bit or am i just getting paranoid.

 

1. You definitely didn't adjust the belt tension correctly, hence the squeak.

2. Dimming lights when you step on the brake, roll up windows etc is perfectly normal. Not sure about your idle. 100rpm difference isn't much though.

 

oh ok 'cause i followed motorvate's diy on the alternator and it said to do 810 revolutions on the tensioner how can i secure it i dont wanna over tighten it.

yea the idle is strange never did that before when i have it on P or N its at 650-700rpm when its on R or D it will go either up or down yesterday it when down to 500rpm and it was bouncy it stays at a certain rpm and it bounces like it wants to shut down. can it be the belt as well?? and also why is it affecting the ECU? some times its on sometimes its off.?..

 

You do realize that after the belt is set to the correct tension, you tighten the small tensioner pulley nut down below, right? Don't try to turn the hex nut up top with the nut down below fully tightened.

The way to set tension is the following: Use your thumb and your index finger and twist the belt as much as you can. If you can go more than 90 degrees, the belt is too loose. Do this in the middle of the longest stretch of belt, which I believe is between the crank pulley and the compressor pulley to the right. There's also the deflection method to set the tension of the belt, but I won't go into that right now.

Get the belt tension dialed in, then maybe your erratic idle problem will go away. Could very well be the source of the problem.

ECU thinks you have a bad alt. but you don't. Get the belt tension dialed in and more than likely all your problems will go away.

 

oh okay got it. that's what i did i dialed the hex down first and did the 22lb force on the belt and then i tighten the pulley, my uncle over tighten it after though so i release it just a tad-bit. didn't do the 90 degree test on it though. but is the hex on top suppose to be easy to turn with out a 14mm or is that also a sign that it wasn't tighten properly? ill have to go back and get under again, but need to go buy a 14mm wrench and socket as well, since my uncle stole mine.

 

After a new belt is installed, the 14mm hex up top is easy to turn by hand initially. But ultimately, a ratchet/socket needs to be used once the belt starts getting tighter. If it can be turned by hand and the belt is tensioned correctly, something is wrong. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

The hex you reach from up top shouldn't be loose enough to tighten by hand. If it is, you can bet the belt is not tight enough. If the hex was supposed to be that loose, it could potentially lose tension while driving.

Loosen the 14mm nut from the bottom with a wrench and then tighten the hex from up top with a socket until you pass the 90 deg test the wizard provided a few posts ago. Then you tighten the nut from below so it will stay locked in place.

 

Is cleaning the Throttle body ok to do? I ask because I read in the Haynes Manual its not ok.

I have a problem at start up in the morning. My car idles low, then stalls if i dont rev it. I was going to do it, but I am not sure if I Should od it or not.

Anybody have any experience with this?

 

do i have a bad thermostat...

its like 30 deg out
the car operated at normal temp. then on the highway, the temp gauge went DOWN to cool. i came to a stop, and it rose back, but to where it normally sits. is this a bad thermostat?

 

did you check your anti-freeze level first?
yes it is likely a t-stat sticking open.

 

Yes, cleaning the throttle is fine to do as long as you do it right. That doesn't mean it is the source of your issue though

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ning-iacv.html

 

yup its full

 

I own a 95 M/T and my power steering is almost non-existent. I'm pretty sure I need a new pump, but I have a question.

How does a power steering pump go bad? Can water cause it?

 

What else could it be then?

It only happens when I do it in the morning and the night before was cold or raining. Could it be the fuel filter?

 

So in my gf's maxima, its a 97, when i put the fuse in for the radio.(stock bose) it runs the battery down. Any idea why?

 

you have short somewhere.
pull out the wiring diagram and check what is on that circuit. Unplug things one at a time until you find what is causing the draw.

 

Do you have a Check Engine light on? Cleaning the TB and IACV will probably solve your problem and its pretty straight forward. there just could be other issues.... as always

 

No check engine lights.

I think I will take out the airbox and clean the TB with a rag. I will use some TB cleaner on the rag and just wipe off the debris. I will see if that helps.