NGK. Either get copper or platinum. Only real difference is coppers last ~ 12k and cost $2, Plats last ~50-60k and cost $10

 

I'm running NGK coppers and seem to be fine. Only lasting 12k miles though?

 

How long should I keep the battery unplugged on the car to clear the ECU completely?

 

I installed my head unit (Kenwood DDX7019 with KNA-G510 navi) the head unit seems to be working fine...DVD and such are working on it too but for some odd reason my navigation doesn't turn on ? or even have an option for me to click on it does anyone know anything about this to help...i've looked around on the net but didnt find anything...

 

Hey guys, have a question about some rims I want to buy. They are the 18" G35s and are all in good condition except for one of them which looks as though its burnt.

I got some pictures from the guy, can anyone recommend anything?

 

that method is not recommended, especially since you can clear them in 5 sec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrSAtjFPI

 

I cannot see your images, you can see them cuz they're most likely in ur cache. You have to host them at photobucket or imageshack.

Only thing i can suggest without seeing them:
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...storation.html

 

clean it up with 400 grit wet sand, prime and paint them to match.

 

Contact Kenwood and ask them

 

the keyless entry module is located on the rear right corner in the trunk behind the gray cloth trim.

if your car has a security light on the dash, then you have the module allready installed, check all fuses and repeat the steps to reprogram the remote. make sure you are following the steps correctly and don't rush it as it won't let you get into the programming.

 

12+ hours, but the ECU method is the quickest (and quit easy) as stated.

 

Call Kenwood, they are very knowledgable and quick to help. Here is the number: 1-800-KENWOOD (536-9663) or (310) 761-8802. I call them a few times and they never hesitated to help.

Just a suggestion.

 

hey guys....brother crashed my moms jetta, thinkin about buyin a 95 for my mom off craigslist for 500beans....guy says its got a power steering leak from the loop that goes in the front by the bumper, and a little body work. any advice or anything would help sway my decision.thanks everyone

 

Didnt know if I had to do the battery disconn method to clear the tcm and what not. Someone here mentioned this method after when you change fluids, or a sensor.

While I'm posting:

Is it me or do these transmissions run better a quart low?

Reason Im asking is, I was draining a small bit, went to tighten the nut back and it fell out into the bowl. So scrambling to get it out and back into the hole, I wasted 1.5 quarts.

Well, I had a 1/2 in the trunk, so put it in. Then drove to advance and got another quart.

Well, the car drove fine, tranny shifted great, car pulled hard on light throttle, shifted on the money; it just felt better.

I since, threw another half quart in there to meet my top off goal, and it still drives fine, but just didn't seem like it was with a quart low.

idk, am I just imagining things?

 

Need help with this!

So I had a sticky front caliper slider pin so I ended up pulling it out. I cleaned it up and greased it back up but im not too sure how it is supposed to be put back in, I just put it in and when i took my car for a test drive it start squeaking again(like before).

Is there a certain way to put the slider pin back in or does it just sit there? The squealing only really happens while my steering wheel is in any way to the left, which is why it was the bottom slider pin.

 

On my 96, the fuse is a 7.5a one, #40. The top one in the middle row I believe. This fuse supplies voltage to the Multi-remote control system and the radio for saving your station settings.

 

Might be a stupid question but what did u grease it with? Did u clean out the hole in the mount also? Did u check both pins? If u clean everything and regrease it all it might just be time for some new guide pins

 

I used white litheum grease, i've always used that stuff. I did clean the inside of the hole as well. I checked both pins, the one on the top has a little rubber peice, when i push it in it comes right back up, but the other one doesnt really come back up and its very loose. Now since I have unfrozen it I can basically just pull it out without any force. If it is time for new pins, where can I find them for cheap?

 

Auto parts store. Like $10. Try swappin the pins to see if its the mount itself

 

thanks for the suggestion i'll give them a call tomorrow, and thank you too B_Eaze

 

The other day my engine was pinging. I use 93 chevron all the time.

I did recently put a junk yard injector in.

Well, I took the car out and ran it hard a couple times, doing high revs, and constant, running up to the speed limit and back, holding 1st, and 2nd, keeping 3rd on the highway for the revs.

Well, the car runs a ton better now, no pinging, and feels stronger.

I thought the KS(knock sensor) was going but maybe it was just that injector needed blowing out?

idk. Anyone have a similar case?

 

Are they all universal or do I have to find a maxima one? I only have a few part stores here where I live and they rob me for everything, calipers are 235$....rebuilt ones too

 

I think so but I'm not actually sure. If its advance or autozone just grab the paty info off line. Rockauto.com should have calipers pin too

 

Im in Canada, so all I got is Canadian Tire and a couple local shops...nothing much

 

Do a search there are a couple of good threads regarding both the Key and the Remotes...
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...w-key-fob.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...your-keys.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ry-remote.html
As you see it's a pain, it's expensive, and you'll find that you will prize those keys and remotes more than you ever have.

 

Does anybody know or where how to remove the interior d pillar of the maxima because it seems to have a rattling noise every now and then. Preferably one with some diagrams or pictures.

 

I am new to the site, I have had my 4th gen for about a year, no serious problems. It misses a little when I am at idle, and on two occasions it took a very long time to get it to start. It would crank, but no fire. This morning I went to start it and it just cranked until the battery died. I checked the fuel pump, its good, i just replaced the air filter, and the spark plugs about a month ago, and I just replaced the cam position sensor today.(due to the non start). I removed the spark plug from cylinder 4 to see if I was getting fuel for sure to the motor and it was drenched with fuel, so i know for sure its getting fuel, I tested the spark plug connected to the boot and coil to see if i am getting spark and no spark, i wasn't sure if i needed to reset the ecu for it to recognize the new cps, so i disconnected the battery. Not sure if this is will work on a max, i am a former honda guy, i know that works for them. No cel. i have fuel. I have also searched the site for about 3 hours now, just in case. I found some stuff on the crank sensor. Any additional help would be very useful and greatly appreciated.

 

Hi all,

Can someone help me identify this part? It is from a 1995 Maxima and looks like it mounts near the intake and MAFS.

Thanks for your help!

Joe

 

Hey Im new here and have a question. My wifes 97 maxima has been having problems ever since i changed the starter on it. I had left the batter off all night by accident and when I reattached it in the morning (after i had completed installing the starter) the car wouldnt start, I checked everything and relized the spark plugs werent sparking, so i figured it was the theft deterent system and had the dealer reset the computer in it. The dealer called me and told me that my problem was really bad gas and would only charge me 980$ for new spark plugs, fuel filter, drain the supreme gas that was in the tank, and run injector cleaner through it, i went and towed it back to my house only to have it start up after i pushed it up the driveway, I put injector cleaner and octane boost in it just to be on the safe side and it worked just fine for 2 days, Then i went out to drive it to the store and the thing wont start but will crank over, the only thing i can think of is that one of the wires is bad. Anyone have any clues as to what could be wrong?

 

<LI id=vmessage10808 class="floatcontainer inlinemod">
Today 03:54 PM
salver

Please, I need help with my Maxima. Car was driving with no power at all, my rpms will go close to 5000 when I step on the gas with just a little power. Took to autozone with no SES light and scanner got a p0325 code (Knock sensor).

I checked all sparkplugs and coils but they were fine, when I checked the resistance on the KS I got OL on my ohmmeter.

Replaced KS and took to autozone to erase the code, drove a couple of days but still getting the same feelling, like if my clutch was running out, took back to autozone and scanned again but no code was present.

Does it take time for the ecu to detect the new sensor and adjust or should i have feel the difference right away???

Does timing need to be adjust manually???

Since I have no more codes is there anything else that could be causing this problem???

Thanx for any help that you can give me.

 

I am 16 and about to get my first set of wheels, but I don't know if I should get a 1998 Maxima or a 2000 Maxima. Which is better?

P.S. My mom won't let me get a stick so it would be a automatic

 

I looked in the "How To" section, but did not see how to remove the brackets that hold the visor down over the sunroof. I don't know if you just pull them straight up to remove or if there is some more in depth process in which to remove them Help would be nice! Thanks.

 

I replaced the Caliper Slider Pins and replaced the pads. There is no more squealing from my brakes but I can still hear it rubbing slightly, still only happens going straight and when turning left. What other possibilities could it be? Warped rotor? Bad suspension parts?

 

did u check the dust gaurds behind the rotor mine was bent a lil and it sounded like something was rubbin

 

flux capasitor lol j/k i have no clue

 

Yea I checked those, and I know its not those because my pads got eaten up really fast and once I put new pads in it just sounds like rubbing not squealing....hence cancelling out the dust sheild and leaving it to be something with the caliper, pads, or rotor...or some sort of suspension part.

 

Throttle Position Sensor

 

Yea I checked those, and I know its not those because my pads got eaten up really fast and once I put new pads in it just sounds like rubbing not squealing....hence cancelling out the dust sheild and leaving it to be something with the caliper, pads, or rotor...or some sort of suspension part.
(posted again because last post was at bottom of page, no one reads that one.)

 

throttle position sensor

 

I've got a parasitic drain problem (I think). And I looked around to see if any lights remained on etc, and I found that my trunk light stays on. Could this be the culprit? I bought this car 3rd hand and the guy before me did some crazy stuff to this poor thing.