Never seen it happen on an A32, so it's probably specific to the IACV redesign they made to fit on the DE-K TB.

Whew, one less thing to worry about.

btw, found out what the problem was, after I redid the valve covers.

I left the EGRC solenoid valve unplugged(the code I got). That will cause the cyclical idle lowering and leveling back over 30-40 sec.

So many things that has to come undone, it's mind boggling.

Well, had to readjust the plenums gasket, it was pressed out the sides.

Best part, valve covers aren't leaking anymore. Go Toyota Black RTV.

make sure that theres nothing rubbing up against the strut, if you have a dust boot look in there, it also could be the strut its self not tightend enough and rubing up and down when it gets compressed...try looking at the top where it connects to the car and then push down on the car (making it bounce so to say) and see if the strut moves a little differently from where the car moves...if you understand

I have a96 5 speed non locking transmission that i just put it in i took it for a test drive and it went through all 5 gears fine no grinding no noise nothing i had a very hard time getting it in reverse i could get it in reverse when im under the car and i put it in reverse i thought this may have been my shifter stabilizer bushing i checked both the front and rear bushing both were fried so i picked up a full assembly formt he junkyard and put it in now when i went to put it into reverse it gave me trouble once again i put more force in and finally got it into revrese i pulled it out of my garage in reverse and i put it in neutral and now it thinks its in gear when its in neutral so now the only gear that works is reverse i put it in first and 3rd and the car wouldnt go anywhere i tried revvving ir up and letting out the clutch but nothignhappend when i put it in second and let out the clutch the gears started to grind a little im very stumped i drove the car in all 5 gears fine and now im having major issues
any input or suggesttions
thanks

First of all, proper sentence/paragraph structure, capitalization, and grammar will make reading your posts much easier. Can't help if you can barely read the post.

Never force the shifter in position, that's your first problem.
Second, sounds like internal damage. I've had this problem before on the RS6F51H after a screwed up rebuild.

Probably have to drop the trans, crack it open.

I have a 98 Maxima w/auto trans. It is a great running car with no real big problems, but there is just one thing that is really annoying me. When i am driving, there is a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the left front wheel area. It doesn't sound like the CV joint type clicking/popping. It doesn't click anytime except when im driving, and it gets faster and louder the faster i drive. I have jacked up the front end and tested the wheel for play, and there didn't seem to be any play when i wiggled the wheel at the top and bottom and the left and right. Ive ran out of ideas and i am wanting to exhaust all the possibilities before i start laying money out on the wrong parts as seeing money is tight these days. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Done any recent work on the car with the wheels off?

Does it make the sound while you spin the wheel yourself, or run it in gear with the front end off the ground?

Is is a well defined ticking sound, or could it be a slight intermittent rubbing?

My first thought would be to check the dust shield behind the rotor, make sure it isn't making contact.

The only thing i have done with the wheels off was rotating the front tires to the back. Tomorrow i am going to jack up the whole front end and run the wheels. When i was rotating the wheels, i did try spinning the wheel by hand, but i didnt hear any of that ticking.

The ticking noise kinda sounds like spinning a bicycle wheel and putting a screwdriver against the spokes as its turning, just not a contstant...tick.tick.tick.tick. more like tick.tick...tick...tick...tick.tick.

I will get an audio clip tomorrow so you will have more of an idea of the noise.

Thanks

I just went outside and pulled the wheel off to check the dust shield like you said. It doesnt seem to be making any contact with the rotor. I did start spinning the rotor and i could hear the tick sound, and after about 10 minutes of trying to narrow the tick down i think i found it. It seems to be coming from inside the hub.

So i am guessing its one of two things, maybe both? Wheel bearing and/or CV Joint.

Been lurking awhile but decided to post to get some info. I have searched but found nothing to answer my questions. Not to mention there are other threads where I have useful information and cannot post until my 15 posts.

I have an automatic 1996 Maxima with 206K miles. It's been in the family for a long time so it has been well taken care of for most of its life. Recently there has been a loud squeak, likely a belt which I will change soon. Any write-up for help?

The second problem is that intermittently the speedometer and odometer will stop working and I can "fix" the problem my banging on the dash. Could it be a loose connection? Any other ideas?

The third problem is a stutter on idle and hesitation during acceleration on a low fuel tank. It doesn't seem to happen on a full tank. I was thinking a fuel filter perhaps?

Also is there some information on what kind of maintenance should be done around this high a mileage vehicle? What is involved in a tune-up?

Thanks for listening and to all who help.

The belt is relatively easy, if you're doing the AC/Alt belt. If it's the PS belt, it's a little more of a pain.



The second is most likely just a loose screw on the back of the cluster for the speedo.

It could be a fuel filter, yes. I've had similar problems with low fuel situations, a new fuel filter fixed it. The Z32TT filter is a good one to use.

Tune up is pretty much plugs, PCV, air filter, every so often cleaning the TB and IACV, and looking everything over.

The cramped quarters on that side seem like a belt change will be difficult. Would removing the wheel and plastic shielding be beneficial? Should I change both the PS belt and AC/Alternator belt at the same time? I think I can handle the rest. A shop wanted $90 to change the belt and I said no thanks.

About the abbreviations, PCV, IACV? TB I assume is throttle body not tuberculosis as in my line of work?

For the abbreviations, see the stickies.
http://forums.maxima.org/4488806-post7.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4645929-post8.html


IACV == Idle Air Control Valve.
PCV is an extremely common abbreviation, it means Positive Crankcasae Ventilation.

For the belts, the AC/Alt is no problem to change from the top, but for the PS belt, you'll have to do it from underneath with the wheel off.

Thanks for the help. You're really fast at responding.

What's up guys, '96 max here. I've got a nice "clunk" coming from the rear right side. I first thought it was the heat shield per the TSB...long story short it's not the problem. I was going to jack the car up today and take a look but it's snowing, basically the noise is LOUD over the slightest of bumps but is non existent when the brakes are applied no matter how big the bump. Any ideas??

EDIT: I searched but the whole thing with the brakes is killing me.

Check the simple things first, make sure the lugnuts are torqued down properly. If they're loose, it can cause the symptoms you describe, and it won't be long before the wheel comes off.

After that, you really just need to get under there and take a look. A noise could really be anything.

98 maxima se, 5 speed 340 000 kms,

I noticed the car stutters when I give it gas, almost like the whole car jerks a little bit, then goes away after 3000 rpm. Not sure if its fuel pump related? clogged filter, or even spark plugs? any ideas or suggestions?

also my front left headlight flickers over bumps and sometimes for no reason, will go off then back on a few minutes later, there is no rhyme or reason to it. it only does this with the night driving lights on, daytime running lights never blink and neither do the high beams.

Thanks for any help !

Do you have any codes? Done any maintenance on the vehicle at all?

Have you checked the wiring to the bulb? Turn the light on and shake the harness, see if you can reproduce it. That'll narrow down which section of harness is causing your issue.

no codes, I just got the car, 1 owner and all maintenance has been taken care of, It is probally due for a tune up as it has been sitting for 2 months before I bought it, I was going to change spark plugs , fuel and air filter today.

I will also check the harness to the headlight !

Hello, I own a 96 automatic black/black maxima. I'm in desperat need of help with an emmisions problem that prevents me from getting a emmisions sticker. Prior to the emmisions test, my mechanic replaced the knock sensor, oxygen sensor, and purge valve. I thought i would pass, but was rejected becuase the PCV code came back on. The mechanic had no idea why so he told me to take the car to the dealer . As everyone knows, they ripped me off by charging me $100 for a diagnosis. I was told that the pcv code was on, obviously to my understanding. I explained to them that my mechanic replaced the pcv. So the next explaination i got was that they found some moisture in the ECU and that might be causing the OBD light to be on. Frustrated, i went to a local junk yard and purchased an ECU. Took it to my mechanic who put it on for me and to my surprise...the freakin PCV code came back on. NOW I'VE COME HERE TO ASK THE EXPERTS FOR HELP. I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE UR HELP. THANX.

There's no such thing as a PCV code. The PCV valve is an extremely simple mechanical valve, no sort of ECU control or feedback involved.

What exactly is the code you're getting? That's the number one point, here.

Thanks! I'm pretty sure that's what the mechanic told me. let me go check real quick. back in a few.

Ok, im back. i went to autozone to use the obd scanner. the code i got is P1445 (manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls)

FWIW, no reason to go to a parts store, you can pull the codes yourself for free, only takes 5 minutes and a screwdriver.

P1445 is for the purge volume control valve for the EVAP canister.

http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index....1996&DTC=P1445

It's the valve on top of the UIM.

The mechanic also realizes it's the purge control valve and he replaced it for me. he installed a new one from the dealership, but the code wont go away and it's caused me to be rejected twice. Any advice???

Ouch, emissions equipment from the dealer must've cost you.

Check the harness, check the new valve (could just be DOA), follow the diagnostic procedures in the FSM. It'll also help you to search the forum for 1008 and P1445, see the previous experience there.

Yea, it was quite costly. i really hate dealerships, that's for sure, but it was my mechanic that ordered it from them. anyways, thanx again. wat's a DOA and FSM?

I extensively searched the topics concerning window switch problems, but did not find a solution to my current problem.

My driver side window switch panel will control everything fine, with the exception of my drivers side window. The leds light up still, but it will not move the window at all, and no noise is made when trying to use it.

Before I go buy a new switch, I just wanted to make sure that there is not a fuse or other problem that I may need to look at first. Thank you very much for any help!!!

DOA == Dead On Arrival.

FSM == Factory Service Manual, see my sig.

It's most likely the switch, yes. If the fuse were out, the master switch wouldn't work.

It's me again. what exactly does the purge volume control valve look like and where can i purchase it at a decent price. thanks.

OEM? Courtesy or Dave B.

Aftermarket? Wherever you can find it the cheapest, I guess. Try parts stores, RockAuto, google, etc.

Thanx again. i'm confused cause my mechanic replaced the "purge control valve" a few months ago, purchased from the dealer, but code P1445 is still on and wont go away. is there a difference from the purge control valve and the " "volume control valve or is it the same???????????

They are different parts. FWIW, the code for the purge control valve is P0443/0807, not P1445/1008.

Tranny went out on my MAX. Its a five speed tranny shop said it was probably a bearing. anyone got a used one or any ideas for me?

The purge control valve is the part in the foreground of the picture pmohr posted. It looks like a black cylinder with a hat. Another poster called it a little black mushroom thing.

AFAIK you can't get an aftermarket purge volume control valve - somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.

Two ideas:

• Replace it, or:
• Rebuild it

If you're looking for one, this isn't the place. Check the classifieds, junkyards, eBay, etc.

'Probably a bearing' doesn't say anything about the symptoms or the exact cause.

hey i have a question. i purchased a K2 Motors cold air inake a couple weeks ago. it did not come with instructions. i tried to install it with my dad but we couldnt figure it out. we then took it to a garage and today the mechanic told us that he tried to put it in and worked on it for over an hour but couldnt get it in because it kept ending up where the battery is. can anyone tell me how to install this? i really appreciate the help

if it's a long intake you'll need to drill a hole in the inner fender to route the piping through there - it's called a fender well intake (fwi). a pic could be helpful.

how do i tell if i got a locking differentral tranny or non-locking on my 5spd tranny that went out?