PROJECT UPDATE:

So, I got the center caps off the rims and their all sanded down! I think I'm gonna skip the primer and put my 1st coat of Black (indoor/outdoor spray paint for plastic) on them.

I will post pics soon! So far, it's a really easy mod and I think it will come out great!
I will be done tomorrow and then start on the fog light rewire and shaving the rear emblems.

Can anyone tell me why I have 2 "1998 Nissan Maxima" Links to the left under my user name? How to I fix it?
Also How do I put a picture over there?

 

i wouldnt skip the primer. the paint chips fasters

 

Well I have some clear coat to put over it all... And I ruffed it up pretty good with the sandpaper. Plus, I don't want to wait until tomorrow to paint! haha I don't have any primer....

 

hahaha ok well as long as you do 4 coats of paint and 2-3 coats of clear you'll be good than.

 

Really? 4 Coats of paint? I was thinking 2-3 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear

 

well light to medium paint coats, not heavy coats or else you'll have paint drippings

 

Oh yea, I know.... Keeping the can a good distance away from the caps!!!
I have to get a least one coat on tonight... hopefully 2

 

Whats the JDM counter part to the maxima? and why cant i start a thread?

 

Why do I have 2 "1998 Nissan Maxima" Links on the left, under my user name?
How Do I get rid of the second one? How can I put a picture over there?

 

I believe it is the Infiniti I30
If you are a newbie (new member) you can't start your own thread. I think you need 15 posts and then you can start your own.

 

My guess would be the alternator, since it seems taking the cables off, causes it to die immediately, meaning the only power the car is running off of, is the battery cables. But I could be wrong.

 

i did the ecu mod on my 5 speed 99 max to stop the governor from limiting my mph. i also ran a switch to it to turn it on and of when i race to prevent a permanent cel. now this is the problem, after doing the mod i drove it for 10 min and it died out and coasted when i was comming to a slow stop at a red light. i started it back up with no prob. same thing happened last month when i had my cel reset except it died on a coast and wouldnt turn back on for 10 min. that time the power would go out when i started, but i havent had that prob since. what could the problem be? is it a possibility the ecu was reprogramming itself or is it something else... someone please give me an answer

 

Hey guys I was wondering if youll know why my 95 max is leaking oil only when im driving. It leaks on the cat-a-lic convertor a few drops at a time. Ive only had this car for about two months and my first problem was my camshaft position sensor. I havent drove this car more the 3 miles and before I start using this car more I want to make sure I got everything squared away on it. Thanks in advance for any answers and thoughts on the situation!

 

Yea buddy I would check the oil sending unit and head gasket. Most likely it is the oil sending unit on the count that it only sends oil when the car is running

 

Hey everybody, where is the oil sending unit on a 95 nissan max? And is there any pics or videos that I could use? Thanks in advance.

 

PROJECT UPDATE:
1) The Fog light rewire is complete and awesome!
2) The Rear Emblems are shaved and it looks sick! (Still need to wax)
3) The Rim Center Caps are painted black but, the silver paint was too powerful. It ate right through the black so, I got a new silver paint and will try that tomorrow. Follow that up with a few coats of clear and it's done.

All in all a pretty productive weekend! Check out my car domain page for pics of This Weekends Mods. Rate my ride while your there!

 

Ok, very noob question, I was wondering if a VQ30DE will fit in the trunk of one of our cars? I am guessing that it won't but I am still keeping my hopes up. Also, what should I check when getting an engine from a shop? I have read about compression and leak down tests, should the shop/yard automatically perform these for me? Lastly, when swapping a newer engine in what sort of things should be performed/replaced (water pump, seals, gaskets, etc)? Thanks for the help guys, and yes I did try searching!

 

Not sure about fitting in the trunk.

Not sure on what all you should check for on the new one.

I strongly recommend you open the timing chain case and replace the chain guide and tensioner (about $70; call dave burnette 1-888-254-6060 for parts) and the water pump (about $80) and the 2 o rings behind the rear timing chain case (just a few $'s) that are infamous for leaking.

-The guide and tensioner is a known problem area after 100k miles and you will eventually get a nasty rattle from the chain.

-The water pump is just for insurance so you never have to get into the TC case again.

-The o rings behind the rear case are a dirt cheap fix and I along with several other .org members have an oil leak coming from them.

All three of these jobs are much more difficult after the engine's in the car. I have seen estimates from mechanics between $800 and $1700 to get into the timing chain, and I'm sure many have seen higher than that.

Just my $0.02

 

Thanks for all of the tips! I remember reading through your thread a few days ago and thinking what a headache you must have from dealing with your leak. Anyone have an idea what replacing these items would cost when the engine is out of the car? I found a shop that said they would do the swap for $300 which sounds like an excellent price.

 

Well, I am not a professional, so I don't know what that would cost, but I know it should only be a fraction of the cost inside the car. The vast majority of the money is in getting to the TC case. Don't let anyone charge you a lot for it, because it would be super easy out of the car.

 

It would still be a good couple of hours of labor, but nothing too bad.

Yes, a VQ will fit in the trunk.

As said, water pump, main tensioner and guide. Valve cover and plug tube gaskets, PS hoses if yours are leaking.

 

I was wondering if I should keep my "overdrive" on my 95 max at all times. I have 146k miles and I just got the car. I have changed all the fluids and the car runs smooth after I did the tune up. Thanks guys in advance for youll answer.

 

No real reason to turn it off, unless you're annoyed by it hunting between 3rd and 4th gear when driving around town.

 

Question: My 96 Maxima would not start. My first thought is that the starter is bad. However, I got a check engine light about a month ago and the codes are saying EGR valve, knock sensor, and rear o2 sensor. I didn't think all 3 could go at the same time, I cleared the code and it stayed off for awhile but recently came back on. A couple weeks ago it flat out would not start, as in it wouldn't even crank. I replaced the battery thinking that was the problem, and it did start after that but it seemed to be cranking slow even with the new battery. Now today it will not start at all. It cranked at first for about 10 seconds and then quit. When I turn the key I can hear the click of a relay out front but the starter will not even crank, and it has a new battery. The starter is was replaced about 2 years ago. I don't know if I should just replace the starter or try something else first. I checked the battery connections and everything is tight. Help please!

 

Are you experiencing any other electrical problems (i.e. unable to use power locks or windows, lights inside or headlights not coming on)?
I would head to Autozone (or equal) and have them test your battery and alternator. It's unlikely the starter has problems after only 2 years, and the fact that it isn't even cranking coupled with the fact that replacing the battery made it start, leads me to believe that it probably doesn't have juice. If your alternator is bad, then your new battery could have been drained without being recharged giving you the symptoms you have.

The EGR valve, knock sensor, and o2 sensor in my opinion could be unrelated but you should check them out anyway.

 

I have a 95 Max, and 2 months ago I replaced my radiator. Recently I noticed my temp gauge consistently reads near zip and then one day, I see it flickering up and down seemly from 0 to normal and everything in between.

Is my gauge bad? Thermostat? Wiring? If it is my gauge, do I just replace the entire gauge cluster?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

okk so im new to this web site but i have a ques... ok soo i have a 96 maxima se nd i took it to the inspection man yesturday after getting 11parts put on lastweek. It passed the inspection so i went home for about 20mins and when i left back out the house my car wouldnt start and only makes a beeping noise. Im sure its not the battery because the radio and everything else works. But today my dad took it to a man because another man @ a shop told him yesturday that the problem is that i have an alarm system in my car that is hooked up to the starter. I dont have the remote to the alarm system so my dad wants to take it to the nissan dealer...has anyone else had this problem or do u know a solution?????-thanks in advance.... Im leaving for college tomorrow and would like my car to be fixed as soon as possible

 

I get this occasionally on my 95 Max, try re-engaging your parking gear. Hold the brake down shift out of P and back in.

 

Noticed the OD light come on briefly when I crank up the car. So I did the AT diagnostics test.

Got the 3rd long blink code: 'Throttle Sensor Circuit' shorted or disconnected.

What exactly causes this? I know the obvious is the TPS, but I don't notice any driveability issues, far as I can tell.

Could use some insight on what to do in this situation.

 

Guessing, either a short and/or a coolant sensor is bad.

I'll let one of the local experts chime in on this.

 

ok im not a newbie but seein as this seems to be the only thread that seems to get replies and ive posted a thread 3 times tryin to get some help on my issue i guess ill try my luck here...heres the scoop...95 GXE i have been locked out of 1st and 2nd gear...actually shifter moves all the way left where 1st would be engaged but jumps immediately into 3rd...2nd on the other hand when tryin to drop shifter into 2nd it wont go all the way down to be engaged...like somethings blocking it..any ideas?

 

^^ good luck ^^

 

are there any parts from a 3.5 that bolt onto a 3.0 e.g. crank, connecting rods, heads anything like that

 

Will the 6 speed cables and floor shifter from a nissan versa work for the 6 speed swap?

 

P0141 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1)
i done know wich one is and how to change it!

 

hey guys. i am hearing a rattle when i lift off the throttle and also when i lift off the brake or turn the air cond. on while my radio is playing the music will stop for a second then keep playing. anyone know what's going on. thanks

 

97 MT GXE 01VI swap.
ive been chasing a terrible fuel millage for about a month now, its at about 18MPG atm. it used to be about 26-9. I got a new knock sensor, checked my o2 sensors ect, well i just remember i unpluged the hose to my EVAP purge valve last month for my IACV hose, and for the past few weeks ive been smelling gas like crazy when i get out of my car, near the gas cap, and in the engine bay. Today i lifted my EVAP valve and it smelled like gasoline, would an unconnected EVAP valve cause terrible gas milage? lack of pressure, and thus escaping fumes? i havent heard the gas cap Pshh recently also.
im not very good at the emmisions stuff. i tried to google it but its kinda evasive of what exactly it does.

 

Im looking for Motor Mount inserts for my 98, Ive looked all over the internet without any good results, anyone know of anyone that sells them? Or, if they even make them lol

 

go check out group deals forum. i got my engine mounts for 80 and my torque for 32.

 

I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima.. not sure what model, but i presume the SE, since it has a spoiler and the Bose stereo system.

But my question is, the axles are starting to, (pardon my language), but, they are ****ing up. I need to replace the drivers side axle. I know how to take it out, but what i need to know, is how to replace the CV boot closest to the wheel. I've tried to separate it, by hitting it with a rubber mallet, but nothing.

From what i can see on the inside of the area i'm talking about, are ball bearings which seem to be incased.

I NEED THIS QUESTION ANSWERED QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE AS THIS IS MY DAILY DRIVER TO WORK.