Att: Daniel B. Martin
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
I had a problem starting my car today. When I turned the key in the ignition the power in the car came on (Lights, radio, etc.), but the car didnt turn over. It was completly silent. I tried it again......and nothing. Made no noise, no clicking, nothing. I repeated 5 to 6 more times and still nothing. I left the car and came back within minutes and the car started up fine.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
#2
It could either be a loose battery cable, or a bad starter or starter component. Sometimes a good rap with a mallet to the starter will cause it to behave properly (in which case you know the starter is bad and needs to be replaced). If your battery was good, but there as no clicking noise ("weak" starting noise) at all, I would be suspect at the starter solenoid. I believe both Haynes and Chiltons have diagnostic procedures for testing the starter solenoid.
A second option I would investigate would be a faulty ignitiion switch. Not sure how to diagnose that though.
A second option I would investigate would be a faulty ignitiion switch. Not sure how to diagnose that though.
#3
Originally posted by Hawkins
I had a problem starting my car today. When I turned the key in the ignition the power in the car came on (Lights, radio, etc.), but the car didnt turn over. It was completly silent. I tried it again......and nothing. Made no noise, no clicking, nothing. I repeated 5 to 6 more times and still nothing. I left the car and came back within minutes and the car started up fine.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
I had a problem starting my car today. When I turned the key in the ignition the power in the car came on (Lights, radio, etc.), but the car didnt turn over. It was completly silent. I tried it again......and nothing. Made no noise, no clicking, nothing. I repeated 5 to 6 more times and still nothing. I left the car and came back within minutes and the car started up fine.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
- model year
- transmission
- odometer reading
- mods (if any)
- recent repair history
- a detailed report of symptoms
#4
No-crank problem
Originally posted by Hawkins
I had a problem starting my car today. When I turned the key in the ignition the power in the car came on (Lights, radio, etc.), but the car didnt turn over. It was completly silent. I tried it again......and nothing. Made no noise, no clicking, nothing. I repeated 5 to 6 more times and still nothing. I left the car and came back within minutes and the car started up fine.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
I had a problem starting my car today. When I turned the key in the ignition the power in the car came on (Lights, radio, etc.), but the car didnt turn over. It was completly silent. I tried it again......and nothing. Made no noise, no clicking, nothing. I repeated 5 to 6 more times and still nothing. I left the car and came back within minutes and the car started up fine.
What do you think it could be?
Could it be bad Spark plugs? Or a bad starter?
This is the second time this has happened to me with in the last month.
Thank you in advance.
Always do the easy check first. If your vehicle is a 5-speed, make sure the clutch pedal is all the way down when you twist the key to START. If automatic, jiggle the shifter while attempting to crank. Try cranking in both Park and Neutral. If those steps are unsuccessful, consider ...
- discharged battery (dim headlights with engine off)
- weak battery (check voltage at terminals while cranking)
- loose or dirty battery terminal connections at the battery
- loose or dirty battery-to-body ground connection
- loose or dirty battery-to-engine block connection
- bad ignition switch
- bad clutch safety switch (5-speed)
- bad neutral safety switch (automatic)
- bad inhibitor relay
- bad solenoid
- bad starter
The starter is an expensive item so I would check the other items before
spending the money on a replacement.
#5
Re: No-crank problem
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
You are reporting a no-crank problem. This is not caused by spark plugs.
Always do the easy check first. If your vehicle is a 5-speed, make sure the clutch pedal is all the way down when you twist the key to START. If automatic, jiggle the shifter while attempting to crank. Try cranking in both Park and Neutral. If those steps are unsuccessful, consider ...
- discharged battery (dim headlights with engine off)
- weak battery (check voltage at terminals while cranking)
- loose or dirty battery terminal connections at the battery
- loose or dirty battery-to-body ground connection
- loose or dirty battery-to-engine block connection
- bad ignition switch
- bad clutch safety switch (5-speed)
- bad neutral safety switch (automatic)
- bad inhibitor relay
- bad solenoid
- bad starter
The starter is an expensive item so I would check the other items before
spending the money on a replacement.
You are reporting a no-crank problem. This is not caused by spark plugs.
Always do the easy check first. If your vehicle is a 5-speed, make sure the clutch pedal is all the way down when you twist the key to START. If automatic, jiggle the shifter while attempting to crank. Try cranking in both Park and Neutral. If those steps are unsuccessful, consider ...
- discharged battery (dim headlights with engine off)
- weak battery (check voltage at terminals while cranking)
- loose or dirty battery terminal connections at the battery
- loose or dirty battery-to-body ground connection
- loose or dirty battery-to-engine block connection
- bad ignition switch
- bad clutch safety switch (5-speed)
- bad neutral safety switch (automatic)
- bad inhibitor relay
- bad solenoid
- bad starter
The starter is an expensive item so I would check the other items before
spending the money on a replacement.
I'm gonna go with Daniel's subtle inclination and say it could easily be the neutral safety switch. My old 86 Taurus drove me nuts with this problem and had these exact symptoms. Sometimes jiggling the shifter would work, sometimes it just started because it wanted to. This is "rare" from my experience with Nissan slushboxes, though.
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thank you all for your help.
Information about my car.
1997 Automatic Max ~ 45,000 miles
Last repair was the alternator which was done a little more than a month ago (which was before these 2 instances).
Question- Shouldn't my "Service Engine Soon" light go off for this problem (It hasnt yet)
I will start checking all the problems that everybody has listed.
Thank you again!
Information about my car.
1997 Automatic Max ~ 45,000 miles
Last repair was the alternator which was done a little more than a month ago (which was before these 2 instances).
Question- Shouldn't my "Service Engine Soon" light go off for this problem (It hasnt yet)
I will start checking all the problems that everybody has listed.
Thank you again!
#7
Originally posted by Hawkins
... Question- Shouldn't my "Service Engine Soon" light go off for this problem (It hasnt yet) ...
... Question- Shouldn't my "Service Engine Soon" light go off for this problem (It hasnt yet) ...
To carry this explanation to an extreme, the ECM does not turn on the Service Engine Soon light for conditions such as ...
- flat tire
- empty gas tank
- overflowing ash tray
- grimy windshield
- missing license plate
#8
Hehehe >>
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
...To carry this explanation to an extreme, the ECM does not turn on the Service Engine Soon light for conditions such as ...
- flat tire
- empty gas tank
- overflowing ash tray
- grimy windshield
- missing license plate
...To carry this explanation to an extreme, the ECM does not turn on the Service Engine Soon light for conditions such as ...
- flat tire
- empty gas tank
- overflowing ash tray
- grimy windshield
- missing license plate
#9
Feeble humor
Originally posted by Albertt
I think Dan just made a funny.
I think Dan just made a funny.
#10
Re: Feeble humor
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Feeble humor, but humor with a point. Too many owners (and technicians) believe that "No Code = No Problem". That simply isn't so. No Code means the On Board Diagnostic system cannot help identify the problem.
Feeble humor, but humor with a point. Too many owners (and technicians) believe that "No Code = No Problem". That simply isn't so. No Code means the On Board Diagnostic system cannot help identify the problem.
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Feeble humor
Have you changed your fuel filter recently? That may be your culprit. Does it only occur when the engine is cold? Has it ever happened before? What year is your Maxima? Mileage? Auto or 5 spd? Date of last tune-up/service? We need to know these things before we can give you any reliable advice. Please repost with more details, we may be able to help you more at that time.
Lee
Lee
Originally posted by BSwithTF
So, say you suspect somethings wrong, but the MIL light isn't on. Could the computer at the dealer get a fault code even though the MIL isn't on. The reason I ask is, when I leave the house in the morning, the first couple time I hit the accelerator the car wants to spit and sputter and then it catches and takes off. I changed the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor but that hasn't helped. Any other ideas? My car info's in my sig. I have an automatic.
So, say you suspect somethings wrong, but the MIL light isn't on. Could the computer at the dealer get a fault code even though the MIL isn't on. The reason I ask is, when I leave the house in the morning, the first couple time I hit the accelerator the car wants to spit and sputter and then it catches and takes off. I changed the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor but that hasn't helped. Any other ideas? My car info's in my sig. I have an automatic.
#12
Re: Re: Feeble humor
Originally posted by BSwithTF
So, say you suspect somethings wrong, but the MIL light isn't on. Could the computer at the dealer get a fault code even though the MIL isn't on. The reason I ask is, when I leave the house in the morning, the first couple time I hit the accelerator the car wants to spit and sputter and then it catches and takes off. I changed the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor but that hasn't helped. Any other ideas? My car info's in my sig. I have an automatic.
So, say you suspect somethings wrong, but the MIL light isn't on. Could the computer at the dealer get a fault code even though the MIL isn't on. The reason I ask is, when I leave the house in the morning, the first couple time I hit the accelerator the car wants to spit and sputter and then it catches and takes off. I changed the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor but that hasn't helped. Any other ideas? My car info's in my sig. I have an automatic.
The 4Gen Maxima does not have a fuel rail pressure sensor. For that reason there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes such as "Clogged Fuel Filter", "Weak Fuel Pump", or "Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator". I wish there were, because that would simplify a lot of engine misbehavior diagnoses.
#13
Re: Re: Re: Feeble humor
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Some Maxima.Org members run with "Sig Off" to improve load time. Don't count on everyone being able to see your sig.
The 4Gen Maxima does not have a fuel rail pressure sensor. For that reason there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes such as "Clogged Fuel Filter", "Weak Fuel Pump", or "Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator". I wish there were, because that would simplify a lot of engine misbehavior diagnoses.
Some Maxima.Org members run with "Sig Off" to improve load time. Don't count on everyone being able to see your sig.
The 4Gen Maxima does not have a fuel rail pressure sensor. For that reason there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes such as "Clogged Fuel Filter", "Weak Fuel Pump", or "Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator". I wish there were, because that would simplify a lot of engine misbehavior diagnoses.
#14
Air/fuel ratio
Originally posted by BSwithTF
... What sensors affect air/fuel ratios? ... Primarily, it is the Oxygen Sensors. However, when operating in Closed Loop mode (which is most of the time) the Engine Control Module uses signals from many sensors including the Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, and Absolute Pressure Sensor.
... What sensors affect air/fuel ratios? ... Primarily, it is the Oxygen Sensors. However, when operating in Closed Loop mode (which is most of the time) the Engine Control Module uses signals from many sensors including the Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow Sensor, and Absolute Pressure Sensor.
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