replaced ks but still have cel
12-20-2007, 10:12 AM
#1
replaced ks but still have cel
I just replaced it about 5 min ago but i still have a check engine light. I wrapped the ks in duct tape and had some gunk from the tape so i wiped it down with chorox wipes and installed. Did i ruin the ks but taping then cleaning it? It doesnt seem any faster with the adv timing so im guessing its not fixed.
Last edited by bigwee; 12-20-2007 at 10:15 AM.
12-20-2007, 10:34 AM
#4
the knock sensor will never cause a CEL. the cel is on from something else. that is why it didnt disappear when you replaced your KS.
and you didnt feel a difference after replacing it?
did you sand/clean the grounding points?
how did you know it was faulty to begin with?
and waht the hell is chrox? and why did you put duct tape around the KS?
and you didnt feel a difference after replacing it?
did you sand/clean the grounding points?
how did you know it was faulty to begin with?
and waht the hell is chrox? and why did you put duct tape around the KS?
12-20-2007, 10:41 AM
#7
the knock sensor will never cause a CEL. the cel is on from something else. that is why it didnt disappear when you replaced your KS.
and you didnt feel a difference after replacing it?
did you sand/clean the grounding points?
how did you know it was faulty to begin with?
and waht the hell is chrox? and why did you put duct tape around the KS?
and you didnt feel a difference after replacing it?
did you sand/clean the grounding points?
how did you know it was faulty to begin with?
and waht the hell is chrox? and why did you put duct tape around the KS?
12-20-2007, 12:34 PM
#15
oh ok i didnt know they did it for you. I sanded the grounds and took it back out and it gets up and goes a little better. So hopefully that was it. But i have to run out to autozone now.
12-20-2007, 01:49 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 350
It's going to be a little while till the car reacts to the new KS. Before I changed it, I even got the light reset and it came back after a week. Again, it only showed the KS code.
After changing it, mine took 2 weeks of routine driving for the light to go out.
I've mentioned this before and the results/knowledge of others appears contrary to this ...but the only code AutoZone gave was for the KS. As stated above , it cleared and a week later it came back, still was for the KS. Then I changed the KS. I suppose your results may vary.
After changing it, mine took 2 weeks of routine driving for the light to go out.
I've mentioned this before and the results/knowledge of others appears contrary to this ...but the only code AutoZone gave was for the KS. As stated above , it cleared and a week later it came back, still was for the KS. Then I changed the KS. I suppose your results may vary.
12-20-2007, 01:54 PM
#17
i felt the difference immediately after driving with the new knock sensor.
MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING PREMIUM GASOLINE. if that still doesnt fix ur lag, it could be several other things (fuel filter, throttle body/IACV, dead plugs, etc.)
and in the stickies for 4th gen it states clearly that the KS will not trip the CEL.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385898
it starts on post #27
MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING PREMIUM GASOLINE. if that still doesnt fix ur lag, it could be several other things (fuel filter, throttle body/IACV, dead plugs, etc.)
and in the stickies for 4th gen it states clearly that the KS will not trip the CEL.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385898
it starts on post #27
12-20-2007, 02:40 PM
#21
Do this:
Make sure you are running 91 and take the KS and touch it to the intake plenum and leave it there. It's now grounded/bypassed. Then start your car, wait for the idle to settle, put on your emergency brake, and put the car in drive (if you have an auto). If your Drive idle is 600 then your KS is working properly. If the Drive idle is 550 or lower than 600, then your KS is no good and you need a new one. Or, if you have you own code reader, once you bypass the KS, the code should either clear or on next startup clear (without and ECU reset).
If you bypass your knock sensor and you have a SES light, check to make sure all the connections you took off were put back. I once spent a whole day trying to figure out a SES light (which was an EGR code) and I even bought Seafoam to clean out the EGR from the plenum. Only to figure out later that I had unplugged the little green connecter right at the entrance to where the KS is and hadn't put it back together.
It was a dark day in my mechanic history and I decided from then on to always have a cup of coffee right before attempting any mechanical operation.
Make sure you are running 91 and take the KS and touch it to the intake plenum and leave it there. It's now grounded/bypassed. Then start your car, wait for the idle to settle, put on your emergency brake, and put the car in drive (if you have an auto). If your Drive idle is 600 then your KS is working properly. If the Drive idle is 550 or lower than 600, then your KS is no good and you need a new one. Or, if you have you own code reader, once you bypass the KS, the code should either clear or on next startup clear (without and ECU reset).
If you bypass your knock sensor and you have a SES light, check to make sure all the connections you took off were put back. I once spent a whole day trying to figure out a SES light (which was an EGR code) and I even bought Seafoam to clean out the EGR from the plenum. Only to figure out later that I had unplugged the little green connecter right at the entrance to where the KS is and hadn't put it back together.
It was a dark day in my mechanic history and I decided from then on to always have a cup of coffee right before attempting any mechanical operation.
12-20-2007, 03:56 PM
#24
12-20-2007, 09:59 PM
#25
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