CEL flashing while driving, IACV underlying cause
#1
CEL flashing while driving, IACV underlying cause
Ok so here is the story: A few weeks ago I did a thorough tune up on my 1998 SE (changed spark plugs, both valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, cleaned both intake manifolds, cleaned throttle body, and cleaned IACV). After putting everything back together I had unusually high idles. I inspected my IACV and its adjustment screw would not turn at all. I figured some dirt got inside the IACV while I cleaned it and was holding it open. A couple days ago I got a "new" IACV from a junkyard for a good price so I put it in. I turned on the car and was idling much better, but then all hell broke loose when I took it out for a spin around the block. It felt like the engine was choking up, not getting enough air and the CEL began flashing (). It would barely accelerate, it felt like it was going to stall if I pushed down more on the pedal. I immediately turned around to head home and was able to get right in front of my house before it stalled. It would not start again after that. I left it there for the night (it was getting cold and I was really pissed).
This morning I put in my old IACV and the engine fired up, but the engine was idling very rough. The engine was wobbling back and forth, and was spitting gasoline out of the exhaust (there wasn't too much white smoke, just a lot of gasoline which was surprising). The CEL was not flashing this time, but was steady. I also checked the "new" IACV I bought and discovered that the adjustment screw was completely in the "closed" position, meaning it was completely blocking the hole that shows the screw. It took me a good 3 turns counter clockwise of this screw for it to open up the hole a little bit (no wonder it stalled!).
But now I have, what seems like, a handful of other problems. I did a CEL diagnostics and got 3 codes: 1302 (MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve), 0604 (Cylinder 5 Misfire), and 0304 (Knock Sensor). I was expecting some kind of cylinder misfire code because the gasoline flowing out of the exhaust made it quite self evident.
I am stumped right now on what to do. Is it possible that the codes 1302 and 0304 are a subsequent effect caused by the cylinder misfire? I also don't understand how the IACV stalling the car would lead to a cylinder 5 misfire. Is it maybe possible that the fuel injector was displaced while the car was choking/stalling, causing the injector rail to dump gas into the cylinder (this is my number 1 suspicion)? Anybody have anything like this or similar to this happen? Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
This morning I put in my old IACV and the engine fired up, but the engine was idling very rough. The engine was wobbling back and forth, and was spitting gasoline out of the exhaust (there wasn't too much white smoke, just a lot of gasoline which was surprising). The CEL was not flashing this time, but was steady. I also checked the "new" IACV I bought and discovered that the adjustment screw was completely in the "closed" position, meaning it was completely blocking the hole that shows the screw. It took me a good 3 turns counter clockwise of this screw for it to open up the hole a little bit (no wonder it stalled!).
But now I have, what seems like, a handful of other problems. I did a CEL diagnostics and got 3 codes: 1302 (MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve), 0604 (Cylinder 5 Misfire), and 0304 (Knock Sensor). I was expecting some kind of cylinder misfire code because the gasoline flowing out of the exhaust made it quite self evident.
I am stumped right now on what to do. Is it possible that the codes 1302 and 0304 are a subsequent effect caused by the cylinder misfire? I also don't understand how the IACV stalling the car would lead to a cylinder 5 misfire. Is it maybe possible that the fuel injector was displaced while the car was choking/stalling, causing the injector rail to dump gas into the cylinder (this is my number 1 suspicion)? Anybody have anything like this or similar to this happen? Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
#2
hmmmmmmmmmmm....strange,
1.did u clear the codes and than try on your old iacv again and c wat happens this time or wat type of codes u get?
2. also did u use a new gasket or reuse the old one? also the high idle u noticed after cleaning it in the first place was due to the more space for air to come since the gunk was removed,
3. did u hear a click when u plugged all the sensors back? to make sure they are snug and tight in there
1.did u clear the codes and than try on your old iacv again and c wat happens this time or wat type of codes u get?
2. also did u use a new gasket or reuse the old one? also the high idle u noticed after cleaning it in the first place was due to the more space for air to come since the gunk was removed,
3. did u hear a click when u plugged all the sensors back? to make sure they are snug and tight in there
#3
hmmmmmmmmmmm....strange,
1.did u clear the codes and than try on your old iacv again and c wat happens this time or wat type of codes u get?
2. also did u use a new gasket or reuse the old one? also the high idle u noticed after cleaning it in the first place was due to the more space for air to come since the gunk was removed,
3. did u hear a click when u plugged all the sensors back? to make sure they are snug and tight in there
1.did u clear the codes and than try on your old iacv again and c wat happens this time or wat type of codes u get?
2. also did u use a new gasket or reuse the old one? also the high idle u noticed after cleaning it in the first place was due to the more space for air to come since the gunk was removed,
3. did u hear a click when u plugged all the sensors back? to make sure they are snug and tight in there
About the idling, I forgot to mention that it idles at 12-1400 rpms, and sometimes it will shoot up to 3000rpms This clearly is abnormal. I used the old gasket for the IACV, it seems to be in good condition...
I also did make sure I heard a click when I put all the connectors back into place, so there's no problem there. (Vacuum lines were also checked thoroughly, no problems).
#6
What do you mean you think the fuel injector was 'displaced'? As in physically moved within the rail? That's not going to happen, really.
FWIW the flashing CEL indicates a severe misfire, you really shouldn't drive it under that condition (can destroy your converter).
Don't worry about the KS code until the rest have been fixed. It may have even been there for quite a while (if you don't check for codes often) as it will not light the CEL.
Have you checked or done any diagnostics for the misfire? Swapped coils, ohmed out the injector, checked the plugs you just put in? My first look would be at the plug you just installed in that cylinder.
FWIW the flashing CEL indicates a severe misfire, you really shouldn't drive it under that condition (can destroy your converter).
Don't worry about the KS code until the rest have been fixed. It may have even been there for quite a while (if you don't check for codes often) as it will not light the CEL.
Have you checked or done any diagnostics for the misfire? Swapped coils, ohmed out the injector, checked the plugs you just put in? My first look would be at the plug you just installed in that cylinder.
#7
What do you mean you think the fuel injector was 'displaced'? As in physically moved within the rail? That's not going to happen, really.
FWIW the flashing CEL indicates a severe misfire, you really shouldn't drive it under that condition (can destroy your converter).
Don't worry about the KS code until the rest have been fixed. It may have even been there for quite a while (if you don't check for codes often) as it will not light the CEL.
Have you checked or done any diagnostics for the misfire? Swapped coils, ohmed out the injector, checked the plugs you just put in? My first look would be at the plug you just installed in that cylinder.
FWIW the flashing CEL indicates a severe misfire, you really shouldn't drive it under that condition (can destroy your converter).
Don't worry about the KS code until the rest have been fixed. It may have even been there for quite a while (if you don't check for codes often) as it will not light the CEL.
Have you checked or done any diagnostics for the misfire? Swapped coils, ohmed out the injector, checked the plugs you just put in? My first look would be at the plug you just installed in that cylinder.
And don't worry, shes not going to be running until she's fixed.
#9
The fluctuating idle could be a TPS issue as well. You mentioned cleaning the TB. Disconnect the TPS harness and see if the idle is still fluctuating or not. If not then recalibrate the TPS and see if things get better.
#11
There's no reason to post about your problem in every similar thread. Really, you should post in the newbie thread instead of jacking other people's threads.
#12
Dont tread jack, if u have a issue and need help resolving it make your on tread you will get better response by doing so
to the OP, any solution to your problem yet??
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Maxima30
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09-07-2015 06:13 PM