AC Pulley Bearing Problem
10-23-2009, 06:13 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 359
AC Pulley Bearing Problem
Hello,
I have a 1999 Maxima SEL and the engine is making a lot of noise.
I read through the threads and tried to trace it back to the idler pulley
with the tensioner on it. I took it off and went to Autozone and bought
a pulley for $25 and a new belt (the current one was in decent shape for 110k).
So I go put it back together and get even louder rumble/squeak then I had before.
So then I decide to take the belt off again and turn all the pulleys by themselves.
Alternator was ok, I got to the AC pulley and it sounded like a train wheel.
1.) Can the pulley be replaced on the AC without a complete rebuild?
2.) Do I need a tool to pull it apart? It looks like the clutch is part of it.
I also noticed when the AC was turned on the noise went away.
I think when tightening everything up the whining noise/squeak. will go away, and
the new pulley on the AC will remove the grinding/rumble.
Anybody have any thoguhts? motorvate.ca was not working for me lately.
I have a 1999 Maxima SEL and the engine is making a lot of noise.
I read through the threads and tried to trace it back to the idler pulley
with the tensioner on it. I took it off and went to Autozone and bought
a pulley for $25 and a new belt (the current one was in decent shape for 110k).
So I go put it back together and get even louder rumble/squeak then I had before.
So then I decide to take the belt off again and turn all the pulleys by themselves.
Alternator was ok, I got to the AC pulley and it sounded like a train wheel.
1.) Can the pulley be replaced on the AC without a complete rebuild?
2.) Do I need a tool to pull it apart? It looks like the clutch is part of it.
I also noticed when the AC was turned on the noise went away.
I think when tightening everything up the whining noise/squeak. will go away, and
the new pulley on the AC will remove the grinding/rumble.
Anybody have any thoguhts? motorvate.ca was not working for me lately.
10-23-2009, 11:25 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 1,066
This same problem happend to me a few yrs back. I thought my idler was shot but before I could remove it one day my belt snapped at work. When i was checking things out I noticed a bunch of metal shavings underneath my a/c compressor. The noise i was hearing was the a/c pulley grinding instead of the idler. When i removed the compressor it had about a teaspoon of oil in it!
I would bet your a/c bearings are worn out. You could try to put in some a/c oil and see if it quiets down. If not a new compressor runs about $250 and is easy to install. hope maybe this helps somehow.
I would bet your a/c bearings are worn out. You could try to put in some a/c oil and see if it quiets down. If not a new compressor runs about $250 and is easy to install. hope maybe this helps somehow.
10-23-2009, 11:40 AM
#3
Im having the same problem. From what i have read you can simply (well as simple as it can be) remove the pulley from the compressor, and replace the bearing. IIRC a 10-ton press is helpful, if not required. Best bet would be just take the pulley to a shop and have them press the old bearing out and the press the new one in.
I believe to get that pulley off you will need to go to O'Reillys or Autozone and rent a puller of some kind. But with that tool, its really not too difficult, i had to do it once on an old mazda of mine, and A/C compressors have not changed too much im sure
I hope that helps!
I believe to get that pulley off you will need to go to O'Reillys or Autozone and rent a puller of some kind. But with that tool, its really not too difficult, i had to do it once on an old mazda of mine, and A/C compressors have not changed too much im sure
I hope that helps!
10-24-2009, 12:16 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 359
Not too difficult? The ac pulley puller tool is a pita. Wow that thing just sucks...it comes loose on the ends where it grabs and we tightened it down and the ends that grip to the pulley open up and slip off the pulley every time. That thing is just Frozen. I am frustrated as heck right now because half the car is tore apart and a shop is going to have to do it anyways....
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
10-24-2009, 09:02 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
There's a write-up on here about it. I think member "skyjumper" did it.
I used his write-up to change mine. Not a hard job if you take your time. The compressor needs "unmounted", but the lines don't need disconnected. If I remember right, I used a pulley puller similar to a harmonic balancer puller (bolts that thread into the pulley, plus the center bolt), not a jaw-type puller. The jaw-type (that hook behind the puller) can bend the pulley.
Once off, take the pulley to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out, and the new pressed in. I'd make sure they stake the new bearing in, or use red loctite to ensure it stays in.
I used his write-up to change mine. Not a hard job if you take your time. The compressor needs "unmounted", but the lines don't need disconnected. If I remember right, I used a pulley puller similar to a harmonic balancer puller (bolts that thread into the pulley, plus the center bolt), not a jaw-type puller. The jaw-type (that hook behind the puller) can bend the pulley.
Once off, take the pulley to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out, and the new pressed in. I'd make sure they stake the new bearing in, or use red loctite to ensure it stays in.
10-25-2009, 09:16 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 359
There's a write-up on here about it. I think member "skyjumper" did it.
I used his write-up to change mine. Not a hard job if you take your time. The compressor needs "unmounted", but the lines don't need disconnected. If I remember right, I used a pulley puller similar to a harmonic balancer puller (bolts that thread into the pulley, plus the center bolt), not a jaw-type puller. The jaw-type (that hook behind the puller) can bend the pulley.
Once off, take the pulley to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out, and the new pressed in. I'd make sure they stake the new bearing in, or use red loctite to ensure it stays in.
I used his write-up to change mine. Not a hard job if you take your time. The compressor needs "unmounted", but the lines don't need disconnected. If I remember right, I used a pulley puller similar to a harmonic balancer puller (bolts that thread into the pulley, plus the center bolt), not a jaw-type puller. The jaw-type (that hook behind the puller) can bend the pulley.
Once off, take the pulley to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out, and the new pressed in. I'd make sure they stake the new bearing in, or use red loctite to ensure it stays in.
I am wondering if Autozone or Napa sells the replacement bearing?
10-25-2009, 11:09 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
No local auto parts stores had it for mine. I ended up getting mine from an industrial bearing supply warehouse pretty local to me. I got mine from Bearing Services, Inc in Shreveport LA. You may have an industrial supply store like that near you. To find one, you could ask local shops where they get theirs. Also check with heavy equipment contractors/repair shops. They typically replace bearings frequently, so could tell you where to source one. You can take the old one in, they'll measure everything to match one. Mine cost just under $30.
10-26-2009, 05:54 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 359
No local auto parts stores had it for mine. I ended up getting mine from an industrial bearing supply warehouse pretty local to me. I got mine from Bearing Services, Inc in Shreveport LA. You may have an industrial supply store like that near you. To find one, you could ask local shops where they get theirs. Also check with heavy equipment contractors/repair shops. They typically replace bearings frequently, so could tell you where to source one. You can take the old one in, they'll measure everything to match one. Mine cost just under $30.
You by chance have any idea what the inner snap ring dimensions are?
11-04-2009, 02:53 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 359
Thanks Dave! I went local, they crossreferenced BOOM $38 shipped. Much better than paying $50+ from Autozone for the wrong part. LOL. You have any idea what size snap ring holds the pulley on? The first one I took off is still intact, but the 2nd one that held the pulley on got bent and I do not konw the original size. I am in need of a comparison and will need to figure out where to get that. I'd hate to get a used compressor at this point. I used a 150 ton press at work to crank the old bearing out. I will probably use the Arbor Press to put the new bearing and and use green loctite.
You by chance have any idea what the inner snap ring dimensions are?
You by chance have any idea what the inner snap ring dimensions are?
Thanks,
Jason
11-04-2009, 10:43 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 866
Check post #50 on this page: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-updated.html It's the write up by "sky jumper".
When I did mine, I followed these instructions and had no problem.
If replacing the compressor, you'll need to replace the receiver/dryer (or accumulator or liquid tank, whatever it is on our car, ~$25). That is to keep the warranty on your reman'd compressor. You'll need to evacuate the system (AC repair shop), because the existing refrigerant needs recovered for environmental reasons. That'll cost you. You may need some new O-rings (specifically for AC systems, they'll be green). I'd suggest completely flushing the system, which would involve a chemical flush and access to shop air to blow it out. I'd take the whole system apart for this. Then after you get the new parts on, you'll need to draw a vacuum (if you have a vacuum pump, if not, take it to a shop) and recharge with appropiriate refrigerant and oil (this is why I suggested flushing whole system, that way you know what amounts to put back in). Depending on your area, a shop would charge somewhere around $100 to vacuum and recharge.
I converted our old Nissan truck from R-12 to R-134 a couple years ago. It involved all of the above. By the time it was through, it ost in the neighborhood of $500. But I had also replaced the thermal expansion valve, and ompressor was $280. I also spent $70 on a new low-side hose. I also have my own R-134 manifold gauges, so only needed a vacuum drawn, which a friend did for free (he has a good pump for repairing appliances).
This is why I suggest checking the pulley bearing by free-spinning it, and if it replicates the noise you're hearing, simply replace it. It really sounds like just the pulley bearing. I'd double-check your repair process and make sure everything is right (I'm lost on why you removed the second snap-ring). Also, did you put the little "washer" (it's actually a shim) back on?) I'm under the impression that is for the correct air gap for the clutch plate, and is a necessity.
When I did mine, I followed these instructions and had no problem.
If replacing the compressor, you'll need to replace the receiver/dryer (or accumulator or liquid tank, whatever it is on our car, ~$25). That is to keep the warranty on your reman'd compressor. You'll need to evacuate the system (AC repair shop), because the existing refrigerant needs recovered for environmental reasons. That'll cost you. You may need some new O-rings (specifically for AC systems, they'll be green). I'd suggest completely flushing the system, which would involve a chemical flush and access to shop air to blow it out. I'd take the whole system apart for this. Then after you get the new parts on, you'll need to draw a vacuum (if you have a vacuum pump, if not, take it to a shop) and recharge with appropiriate refrigerant and oil (this is why I suggested flushing whole system, that way you know what amounts to put back in). Depending on your area, a shop would charge somewhere around $100 to vacuum and recharge.
I converted our old Nissan truck from R-12 to R-134 a couple years ago. It involved all of the above. By the time it was through, it ost in the neighborhood of $500. But I had also replaced the thermal expansion valve, and ompressor was $280. I also spent $70 on a new low-side hose. I also have my own R-134 manifold gauges, so only needed a vacuum drawn, which a friend did for free (he has a good pump for repairing appliances).
This is why I suggest checking the pulley bearing by free-spinning it, and if it replicates the noise you're hearing, simply replace it. It really sounds like just the pulley bearing. I'd double-check your repair process and make sure everything is right (I'm lost on why you removed the second snap-ring). Also, did you put the little "washer" (it's actually a shim) back on?) I'm under the impression that is for the correct air gap for the clutch plate, and is a necessity.
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