cdmapro

so I developed a hard warm start shortly after I replaced my EGR tube and cleaned TB and IACV. I reset the ECU by disconnecting battery overnight, and it started flawlessly for 4 or 5 days. but now the hard start is back, and happens when the engine is cold too.

the hard start almost seems like a momentary misfire when cranking. almost like a backfire that causes the cranking to stop. then it fires right up on the second attempt. sometimes it sputters a bit.

I know about all the sensors that can cause a hard start - but they all seem to work fine. TPS ohms out fine. ECTS seems to work fine (coolant temp reading on OBDII scanner looks right). not sure how to check the ckps, but once the car starts it runs perfect so it seems a bad ckps would cause a running misfire?

so I guess I have 2 questions:
1) what is different about how the VQ starts after the ECU is reset? does the ECU ignore sensor inputs until it is once again in "ready mode" for lack of a better term. which ones does it ignore?
2) is it possible for one of these sensors to work fine during normal operating condition, but send faulty signals while first starting up? it now appears the fault is not temperature dependent.

if I can't figure this out I'm going to just start replacing sensors, but I'd like to avoid that.

cdmapro

so maybe I have a 3rd question: could i have screwed up my IACV when I cleaned it, and would it cause my hard start symptoms?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if you browsed through the recent posts but I posted this just a couple of days ago... check the video and see if thats what yours sounds like. If so, all info is in there

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....05#post7677305

cdmapro

thanks. yes I saw your thread. my symptoms are a bit different. whereas your problem seemed to happen every time you started, mine starts fine after the "first start" e.g. if you shut if off and immediately restart it will fire right up. it's only after sitting for a while that it coughs and spits. mine also doesn't crank for many seconds at a time. it will generally crank and quickly misfire on the first try, then fire right up on second try. i'll see if I can post a video.

talking with a service tech at the dealer he thinks it's my IACV. says the carb cleaner I used to clean it effed up the valve and now it's fubar.

so - can the IACV be repaired or do I buy a new one?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Had the same symptom. It was actually the starter itself pausing for a second. New starter from rockauto.com solved it. Get the 12 tooth updated version. Car starts perfectly now.

cdmapro

ok update. so at lunch I went to take a video. but this time something very different happened. car cranked for a few seconds and sounded like battery dying. then no crank and click-click like dead battery. now no solenoid click at all, but battery seeems fully charged (headlights light up fine). tried to jump it but no go. no click. like the solenoid is getting no power at all.

so - is this a bad starter, or blown fuse or relay?

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

Have you looked into o2 sensor or distributor transistor unit could have that effect. Maybe crank angle sensor could be dirty, I would at any of those and anything to do with spark, if it's not your starter/fuse/relay.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

No distributors here buddy

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

could be the ignition switch or the starter, but i would be leaning towards the starter.

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah was thinking of a 3rd gen, coilpacks on these, I'm use to the 3rd gen forum but we got a 4th gen now also.

cdmapro

I don't see a 12 tooth at RA. looks like they're all 10 tooth?? what is OEM in a 99?

seems like people have had lots of trouble with AZ starters. I was going to buy one, but now not so sure.

jdooley

Did you have any starting problems before you did this work? Did you disconnect one battery cable or both? Did you check to see if the headlights or any other lights for that matter, dim when you try to start?
My first suspicion would be the battery cables/connections. The battery may run the headlights OK but not have the ooomph to turn over the engine, especially if one of the cables is bad or corroded.

bigblock261

I had the same symptoms on my '99 GXE. 139k miles. I pulled the starter (from above standing up, easy) and disassembled it. The brushes were worn down to nothing, and the commutator showed signs of arcing (this happens when the starter motor abruptly stops cranking due to worn brushes). Otherwise the starter looked great. So I thought why spend up to $250 for a reman if I only need brushes. I visited my local automotive armature shop (starter and alternator repair) and bought the brush assembly (also called a brush rack) for $25. I cleaned out the old brush material (it looks like dry grease), polished the commutator with emery cloth, inspected the drive end (the reduction gears were in very good shape), installed the new brush rack and reassembled it. It works like new.

I don't know that I would pay extra for a 12 tooth unit. The reduction planetary will provide quite adequate cranking torque. 10 teeth will work just fine for most applications.

In disassembling, there are only four fasteners. Two long hex head capscrews that hold the motor to the drive end, and two short Phillips head screws that hold the brush rack to the motor end cap. The Phillips head screws were very tight. Don't trash them.

cdmapro

I dont' recall the hard starts before the EGR job, except for when I was low on fuel (which I almost always was due to my long work commute). but I started keeping the tank full after I noticed the hard starts and it didn't help. fuel filter replaced a couple years ago, and start up fuel pressure apppears strong. the battery cables on securely fastened and clean. the battery itself is 8 months old.

what I see now is the headlights and interior lights will stay bright with no dimming when I attempt to start the car. occasionally I'll get the solenoid clicking. with repeated attempts I get nothing. so i'm really thinking my immediate problem (no cranking) is the starter or solenoid.

however, i suspect that even with the new starter my hard start problem will remain. I didn't have a problem cranking the car before - it cranked fine, just wouldn't fire on first try (or misfired) and cranked strong and fired on 2nd try. I think I may have just wore it out from all the hard starts. it has 153k mile on it.

bigblock - do you have any photos of your starter rebuild? that sounds like something i'd like to try.

thanks for the help guys...

speedofsalt32

having this issue almost feels like if it had a distributor, it would be off a eight turn or so

bigblock261

I didn't take photos but I would guess the service manual would have an "exploded" illustration.

Really, removing all the air cleaner pieces and the starter itself was more involved that disassembling the starter. I had to resort to a 1/2" drive breaker to loosen the bigger starter-to-engine bolt. That mamajama was tight!

Leo_Koneval

iTrader: (4)

All this happened after you did the EGR and cleaned the IACV and TB? Are you sure you didn't connect a vacuum line or something wrong? How about gaskets? Any leaks or cracks in the gaskets on the IACV or TB?

Any codes?

These hard start problems are hard as hell to solve when you rule out almost every sensor like on this Subaru Legacy I've been messing with... ugh...

cdmapro

it was the starter! car starts awesome now. but I did disconnect the battery to swap the starter, so the ECU is reset like last time when it started great for 4 days. so we'll see if the hard start returns. for now i'll enjoy the massive cranking power of a new OEM starter and the quick starts.

but then on my test drive i noticed my driver's side caliper is now sticking. wheel was hot as hezell when I got back. friggin' autozone calipers. they don't fit right. if it's not one thing its another...

TravisCadello

so it was the starter... damn lots of maximas are having hard starts so is mine, i got a long thread about it still cant find out my problem. tommorow im changing fuel pressure regulator to see if it fixs it.


if not im putting a new damn starter in since everyone else's is going out lol. its all this damn heat getting to our cars.

cdmapro

yes lots of people having problems. i love the VQ30, but nissan really put some crappy components on this car. I only have 152k and so far i've had to replace the starter, alternator, AC compressor (bearing), EGR tube, TC tensioner, idler pulley, all 3 O2 sensors, 3 ign coils, knock sensor, all 4 calipers, rear struts, and now it looks like my steering rack is leaking, I think my crank pully is on its way out, and there's a bunch of clunking sounds coming from the suspension. my old camy had 250k when I sold it and the only thing I replaced was the distributor cap and a couple sets of plugs - nothing else ever broke, and I beat the crap out of that car. I baby the max and it still takes a dump on me about once a month. I would never trade it for a camry but the quality is disappointing. wondering what will break next. i'm betting crank pulley.

TravisCadello

dannng, sounds like you got a lemon or a car that was abused all of its life. im pushing 300k miles and is in good shape original motor.


the only thing ill have to say bad about this nissan motor is the knock sensors and ac compressor bearing other then that nissan couldn't of done a better job.


and i had a 95 camry i LOVED it one the best running cars ever and you couldn't make that motor break down for NOTHING. great gas milege always always always lol.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Im at 335,290 (im replying from my car) and havent had any major problems. most reliable car ive ever owned.

as for your toyota statement...BLASPHEMY! I was raised.as a toyota lover by my mom but have grown to really dislike them. Working on them, driving them just bla. we had a. 91 camry with 270k but ran like ****. currently theres a 93 5spd in the house hold and im still pissed at it from the time i did the clutch. you know the V6 in those is garbage when it comes to head gaskets. also the 4 cyl seems to break the block around where the oil filter goes... they also knock a lot. working at the jy for a year made me realize a lot of things.

cdmapro

that could be true. I bought it at 50k. the previous owner took great care of it (the kind of guy who polishes his garage floor with a diaper). he took it to the dealer for everything even oil changes and air filters - had all of his maintenance records in a 3 ring binder. but he had lots of problems too (the coils and O2 sensors were done on his clock, not mine - all before 50kmi). that's why he sold it I think - he figured it was a lemon. or maybe dealers sabotoge the cars they work on to get repeat business idk. reason I keep the car is I hear all the stories of how these things will go 300k+ miles. so I'm hopeful. maybe once I get every last sensor or component on the car replaced i'll be in the clear.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm... I am having this problem for a while now. Almost exactly the situation as you, it starts after my cleaning TB and IACV. I have replaced the fuel regulator, cleaned up the TPS. They helps but only for a couple of weeks. It seems only happen on my first crank in the morning. I am going to try to rebuild starter. Anyone knows how to get one of this brush assembly kit mentioned by bigblock261. Does Nissan sell those?

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

with that many miles, how long did you think the original parts would last? most of what you've listed should've been gone at 100k, as it is.

cdmapro

just reviewing my records - previous owner also had 2 fuel injectors crap out on him at 41k and 48k miles. all the coils and O2 sensors were also between 35k and 50k miles. TB and intake also cleaned at 50k. all done at the dealer. poor guy spent over $2k on repairs right before he sold it to me. I'm thinking maybe he got into some bad gas or something. all that stuff going bad within a 15k mi span with such few miles on the car. doesn't make sense. I started pulling oil samples for analysis the day i bought the car, and it has always produced exceptionally low wear numbers, so I'm not worred about internal problems.

but dang does this car start up sweet now! man i'm lovin the sound of that new starter. sounds like a benz S550.