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Old 01-16-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
that's it, beat the $hit out the trans so it goes alltogether. torque converter is on it's way out. i went thruogh the same thing 6 years ago when mine went. sounded pretty similar to yours.
come on, it HAS to be something else.... i kinda have a gut feeling. anything else at all that could cause a similar result? and if it is then what should i do? i mean if i replace the tranny you bes believe its gonna be a 5 speed.

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Old 01-16-2014, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjohnalmand
come on, it HAS to be something else.... i kinda have a gut feeling. anything else at all that could cause a similar result? and if it is then what should i do? i mean if i replace the tranny you bes believe its gonna be a 5 speed.
last thing i can think of is a speed sensor, it will cause weird idle and acceleration problems with the trans sometimes.

Most Common Symptoms of a Faulty Engine Speed Sensor

A faulty vehicle speed sensor can cause an array of problems. In fact, symptoms of a faulty speed sensor may also result symptoms of other common components such as a defective coil pack or bad throttle position sensor. However, here is a list of the most common symptoms associated with a bad engine speed sensor:

Transmission revs higher before it changes gears ding ding ding!!!
The car's transmission engages into overdrive late and sometimes will never go into that top gear hmmmmmm
Brakes are sometimes harder than normal when coasting
Speedometer behaves erratically or sometimes does not work at all
The check engine light comes on intermittently and sporadically when accelerating
The overdrive on/off light blinks on and on for no apparent reason
How to Test the Vehicle Speed Sensor

If your car is experiencing any of the above symptoms, you should take your car into a local dealership to have them run a computer diagnostic on your vehicle. While some of the problems may seem transmission related, it is usually better to take your vehicle to a repair shop that has complete computer diagnostic equipment before going to a specialty repair shop.

Last edited by max ride 41; 01-16-2014 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
last thing i can think of is a speed sensor, it will cause weird idle and acceleration problems with the trans sometimes.

Most Common Symptoms of a Faulty Engine Speed Sensor

A faulty vehicle speed sensor can cause an array of problems. In fact, symptoms of a faulty speed sensor may also result symptoms of other common components such as a defective coil pack or bad throttle position sensor. However, here is a list of the most common symptoms associated with a bad engine speed sensor:

Transmission revs higher before it changes gears ding ding ding!!!
The car's transmission engages into overdrive late and sometimes will never go into that top gear hmmmmmm
Brakes are sometimes harder than normal when coasting
Speedometer behaves erratically or sometimes does not work at all
The check engine light comes on intermittently and sporadically when accelerating
The overdrive on/off light blinks on and on for no apparent reason
How to Test the Vehicle Speed Sensor

If your car is experiencing any of the above symptoms, you should take your car into a local dealership to have them run a computer diagnostic on your vehicle. While some of the problems may seem transmission related, it is usually better to take your vehicle to a repair shop that has complete computer diagnostic equipment before going to a specialty repair shop.
hmmmmmm, i dont know if this counts as the over drive light blinking for no reason but i was going up a bridge and was probably around 2500 rpm maybe more (tallest bridge in Georgia) and i flip my lights on and WHAM the car dies but is still on? i dont know what the hell happened but my over drive light was blinking after.

this is a big reason why i really dont want to believe its the transmission. little things like this that all are somehow linked together. like the electronic whistle sound, the clock flickers, if im revving and its in a bad mood (it has moods i swear it does) and i turn on too many electronics (which isnt very much cosidering i dont have an antenna, i ripped my sub out, and my headunit is trashed) like the headlights and the A/C.

the whistle also gets louder as i accelerate and the clock flickers more when i accelerate and if its in a REALLY bad mood sometimes her headlights flicker a little and a couple times she's died on me (i was able to coast and restart but still wtf?!)

what im getting at is i really think its a sensor, or something electronic with the belt maybe? (but what do i know...)

my power steering was leaking too pretty bad and i was having to keep it topped off for like a week and how it holds better than ever....

i also have a bad driver axle (hit a softball sized boulder in the road at 55mph) that hasnt been fixed and i feel it doin some weird $hit too.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:44 AM
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dude, your car sounds like you need to have a diagnostic performed, either by the dealer or a good garage. there's no way we can do anything in here except suggest things to you. you keep adding more stuff to the list so i can't even begin to diagnose what it could possibly be. seriously, borrow some money from your folks or save up and take to a shop, you've got too many little horror story's going on here. gl
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by johnjohnalmand
hmmmmmm, i dont know if this counts as the over drive light blinking for no reason but i was going up a bridge and was probably around 2500 rpm maybe more (tallest bridge in Georgia) and i flip my lights on and WHAM the car dies but is still on? i dont know what the hell happened but my over drive light was blinking after.

this is a big reason why i really dont want to believe its the transmission. little things like this that all are somehow linked together. like the electronic whistle sound, the clock flickers, if im revving and its in a bad mood (it has moods i swear it does) and i turn on too many electronics (which isnt very much cosidering i dont have an antenna, i ripped my sub out, and my headunit is trashed) like the headlights and the A/C.

the whistle also gets louder as i accelerate and the clock flickers more when i accelerate and if its in a REALLY bad mood sometimes her headlights flicker a little and a couple times she's died on me (i was able to coast and restart but still wtf?!)

what im getting at is i really think its a sensor, or something electronic with the belt maybe? (but what do i know...)

my power steering was leaking too pretty bad and i was having to keep it topped off for like a week and how it holds better than ever....

i also have a bad driver axle (hit a softball sized boulder in the road at 55mph) that hasnt been fixed and i feel it doin some weird $hit too.
The first thing I would do is check all grounds. Especially the main ground off the battery, (the negative ground wire should be grounded to both the body and engine block), and the alternator ground. Bad grounds will cause sensors to act up, the maf will get incorrect/sparitic readings causing all sort of driveability issues.
I would also check for vacume leaks. But like others have said there is just way too much going on for us to help you with anything other than guess work. Have a mechanic look at your car to help narrow things down to one specific problem at a time.

Last edited by 6cyl-97maxima; 01-17-2014 at 07:11 AM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:16 AM
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From that video, the turbine in your tranny is fubarred. It's had it, done for, it's a dead parrot, man. You need to be looking for a good used tranny or a rebuild. What is the stall speed? You put the front end against a wall (just in case), jam on the brakes, and accelerate in drive. Only for a few seconds! What is the maximum RPM? I think it should be about 2200. More than that - no good. I always do this test when I am buying a car. The O/D lamp blinking? It's trying to tell you something! Only you won't listen! It's a diagnostic code!
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by clive
From that video, the turbine in your tranny is fubarred. It's had it, done for, it's a dead parrot, man. You need to be looking for a good used tranny or a rebuild. What is the stall speed? You put the front end against a wall (just in case), jam on the brakes, and accelerate in drive. Only for a few seconds! What is the maximum RPM? I think it should be about 2200. More than that - no good. I always do this test when I am buying a car. The O/D lamp blinking? It's trying to tell you something! Only you won't listen! It's a diagnostic code!
I'LL have to try this test. I think my TQ converter may be slipping too, but my symptoms are not nearly as bad as this guys.
I too have gotten the VSS code. I also had the o/d light blink at random times when doing an ACC light check. Pulled the tyranny codes and got the VSS code. I then pulled the gauge cluster and tightened the leads for the VSS. Then cleared the codes. A month later and the VSS code has not come back. And O/D light has not flashed again. But I'm still concerned that something is fubarred with my tranny.
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
I'LL have to try this test. I think my TQ converter may be slipping too, but my symptoms are not nearly as bad as this guys.
I too have gotten the VSS code. I also had the o/d light blink at random times when doing an ACC light check. Pulled the tyranny codes and got the VSS code. I then pulled the gauge cluster and tightened the leads for the VSS. Then cleared the codes. A month later and the VSS code has not come back. And O/D light has not flashed again. But I'm still concerned that something is fubarred with my tranny.
Sorry for kinda hijacking this thread. I tried the "stall test". The car did not stall but Rpm would not go over apx. 2300 rpm. So I'm assuming that the main thing is not that the car didn't stall but rather that I could not exceed 2300 rpm's. And that the test shows that the tyranny is not slipping, right?
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by clive
From that video, the turbine in your tranny is fubarred. It's had it, done for, it's a dead parrot, man. You need to be looking for a good used tranny or a rebuild. What is the stall speed? You put the front end against a wall (just in case), jam on the brakes, and accelerate in drive. Only for a few seconds! What is the maximum RPM? I think it should be about 2200. More than that - no good. I always do this test when I am buying a car. The O/D lamp blinking? It's trying to tell you something! Only you won't listen! It's a diagnostic code!
i think it is around 2200 if anything over its not much.

i guess ill be taking her somewhere soon, if any of yall are org members in southeast GA hit me up haha i feel isolated out here everyone seems to be up north. thanks for the help
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
Sorry for kinda hijacking this thread. I tried the "stall test". The car did not stall but Rpm would not go over apx. 2300 rpm. So I'm assuming that the main thing is not that the car didn't stall but rather that I could not exceed 2300 rpm's. And that the test shows that the tyranny is not slipping, right?
2300 rpm, your tranny is ok. No worries.
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by clive
2300 rpm, your tranny is ok. No worries.
OK, good. Thats one less thing I have to worry about with this car.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by clive
2300 rpm, your tranny is ok. No worries.
buuuuuuuut mine's still fuxked?
(i ask because mines 2200/2300)
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:59 AM
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Have you checked the error code from the O/D lamp yet
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by clive
Have you checked the error code from the O/D lamp yet
no, no lights constantly on the dash and the O/D light was a one time thing, it hasnt done it since also i gave it some gas today and it ran good. no slippage, i didnt floor it but i eased on it really good i needed to merge around some cars. probably got it up around 4 to 4.5k rpm's and like i said i did the stall test or whatever and its spot on. (just havent gotten it checked because im pretty short on money right now)

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Old 01-24-2014, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by johnjohnalmand
no, no lights constantly on the dash and the O/D light was a one time thing, it hasnt done it since also i gave it some gas today and it ran good. no slippage, i didnt floor it but i eased on it really good i needed to merge around some cars. probably got it up around 4 to 4.5k rpm's and like i said i did the stall test or whatever and its spot on. (just havent gotten it checked because im pretty short on money right now)
If the o/d light ever rapidly blinked, even if it was a one time thing, there should still be an error code stored on the transmission CPU. Go through the procedure to trip the transmission into diagnostics mode. Count the pulses from the O/D light, look up the code and report back. Even if it only happened once, the code could still very well point you in the right direction to what is going on with your transmission.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:10 AM
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I only caught the first part of the video it almost sounds like the engine is struggling. When the nissan tranny go out they get confused as to what gear to be in. Your cruising along then all of a sudden itlk go into second or first gear. Then it'll go from doing that to staying in a gear for periods of time. Then it'll just sray in second. And you'll have no reverse too. Went through three transs when I had my maxima. But when I had my third gen ve30 auto. And the alternator was going bad my car acted lik yours and my trans was healthy. Now you also said that you had to take it back cause the belt kept squealing. Now at my job for my i30t my alt. Is 125 amps. While the maxima was either 100amps while the se was 115amps. Could be the wrong type of alternator
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1992maximase30
I only caught the first part of the video it almost sounds like the engine is struggling. When the nissan tranny go out they get confused as to what gear to be in. Your cruising along then all of a sudden itlk go into second or first gear. Then it'll go from doing that to staying in a gear for periods of time. Then it'll just sray in second. And you'll have no reverse too. Went through three transs when I had my maxima. But when I had my third gen ve30 auto. And the alternator was going bad my car acted lik yours and my trans was healthy. Now you also said that you had to take it back cause the belt kept squealing. Now at my job for my i30t my alt. Is 125 amps. While the maxima was either 100amps while the se was 115amps. Could be the wrong type of alternator
well i had a 95 se and it had that tranny problem you're describing. stuck in third or second and was a bee otch to drive. and my fuel pump is going too, last time i ran out of gas it started running rough. i ran stuff through it but all this started before then anyway. and i checked the volts coming off the batt should i check them from the alternator?
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
If the o/d light ever rapidly blinked, even if it was a one time thing, there should still be an error code stored on the transmission CPU. Go through the procedure to trip the transmission into diagnostics mode. Count the pulses from the O/D light, look up the code and report back. Even if it only happened once, the code could still very well point you in the right direction to what is going on with your transmission.
on it! u know the procedure for the tranny or a link?

if not off the top of your head then dont worry about it ill find out
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:36 AM
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I think you press the gas and release or something. Its weird. Lol. But I don't think your trans is slipping. You would know its slipping. It sounds like the engine is laboring though. Cause its downshifting and when it downshifts the rpms don't flare up then go back down.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjohnalmand
on it! u know the procedure for the tranny or a link?

if not off the top of your head then dont worry about it ill find out
The procedure is outlined in the how-to stickies. Is quite long and involves pressing the gas, Turing o/d on, release gas, turn o/d off, shift to 1st, ect. (Its not in that order though, I was just giving you an example).

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Old 01-29-2014, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
The procedure is outlined in the how-to stickies. Is quite long and involves pressing the gas, Turing o/d on, release gas, turn o/d off, shift to 1st, ect. (Its not in that order though, I was just giving you an example).
Hear is a link with the proper procedure outlined. Its the second post down.

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=76800
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
Hear is a link with the proper procedure outlined. Its the second post down.

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=76800
alright cool, thanks.

its probably gonna take me a while, i was being dumb one day and disconnected my o/d button along with the lights under my shifter... yea just dont ask. haha
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:01 AM
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bump

i cant figure out this damn code stuff, i swear i entered it every way possible and havent gotten any codes... please help im about to push my pedal through the floor if i keep getting it wrong!!!

https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=76800

from the second post

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Old 03-06-2014, 11:39 AM
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The only part I had problems with was the parts where it tells you to hold the o/d button down until you get to step 12 or whatever it is. Instead ignore those parts and just simply press the o/d button and let go wherever it says to hold the button down. I firgot about that until now. Also make sure you start the procedure with the o/d on, and key in the off position.
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:26 PM
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test some things....
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:23 PM
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Had this problem on my 96 maxima, its always acting up when I'm on the gas while taking turns, or when I would move off too fast from a stop, once you restart the car then everything is fine, it will make the o/d light flash 15 times, codes that will likely come up is p0600, a code about 4th gear, and then a p0720 and that last code is the problem, revolution speed sensor (p0720) its located on the end of the tranny under the driver side wheel well
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
Had this problem on my 96 maxima, its always acting up when I'm on the gas while taking turns, or when I would move off too fast from a stop, once you restart the car then everything is fine, it will make the o/d light flash 15 times, codes that will likely come up is p0600, a code about 4th gear, and then a p0720 and that last code is the problem, revolution speed sensor (p0720) its located on the end of the tranny under the driver side wheel well
woah woah woah.... so you're telling me it IS the speed sensor? and you're sure that we have the same issue?
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by johnjohnalmand
woah woah woah.... so you're telling me it IS the speed sensor? and you're sure that we have the same issue?
yeah I'm pretty sure that's the case if your O/D light is flashing 16 times, and your car doesn't feel like it wants to shift until you restart the car are sometimes it will get stuck in 3 gear until you restart the same, plus when you start the car and drive, it won't shift into 2nd gear until it reaches 2000 RPM, if your going threw the same thing then I'm 99.9% sure it's the Revolution Speed Senor, if you need a pic of the location just look at my post here go down the page https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p=8916958#post8916958

P.S All 3 codes went away when I changed my Revolution Speed Sensor
Plus if your wanna test if your tranny is really slipping then just step on the brake, and give it some gas, it should go up to about 2000 - 2300 RPM if it goes all the way up then your tranny as problems

Last edited by LuminousX; 03-07-2014 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
yeah I'm pretty sure that's the case if your O/D light is flashing 16 times, and your car doesn't feel like it wants to shift until you restart the car are sometimes it will get stuck in 3 gear until you restart the same, plus when you start the car and drive, it won't shift into 2nd gear until it reaches 2000 RPM, if your going threw the same thing then I'm 99.9% sure it's the Revolution Speed Senor, if you need a pic of the location just look at my post here go down the page https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p=8916958#post8916958

P.S All 3 codes went away when I changed my Revolution Speed Sensor
Plus if your wanna test if your tranny is really slipping then just step on the brake, and give it some gas, it should go up to about 2000 - 2300 RPM if it goes all the way up then your tranny as problems
okay that sounds about what mines doing, except for getting stuck in third... it does get high like 2000 RPM before it shifts out of first some mornings.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:05 AM
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mine would get stuck in 3rd when i got stuck in snow, and kept hit reverse then drive in a flash, but yeah it's the speed sensor man, i got mine here on the org used from maxima joe for a good price like 3 weeks ago
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
mine would get stuck in 3rd when i got stuck in snow, and kept hit reverse then drive in a flash, but yeah it's the speed sensor man, i got mine here on the org used from maxima joe for a good price like 3 weeks ago
P0600 means that the transmissions computer is having trouble communicating with the ECU. The FSM says that the problem can be a short between tcm and the ECU, a bad tcm, dead/bad battery, or bad alternator. But I can see how a speed sensor that's failing could confuse the ECU into throwing transmission codes. But wouldn't your speedometer and tachometer not read correctly if the problem is the speedsensor itself?
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:27 AM
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A speed sensor is not the same as a revolution speed sensor, speed sensor that controls the cluster gauge, the revolution speed sensor tells the tcm when to change gears
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
A speed sensor is not the same as a revolution speed sensor, speed sensor that controls the cluster gauge, the revolution speed sensor tells the tcm when to change gears
so your telling me that there is a revolution sensor and a speed sensor? So the speed sensor is installed on the transmission, where is the revolutionary sensor?

PS: when you say stuck in 3rd gear, your not really stuck in it. Your care is in limp mode and will not shift any higher than 3rd. Your rpm will also be limited to something like 3k.

Last edited by 6cyl-97maxima; 03-07-2014 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 6cyl-97maxima
so your telling me that there is a revolution sensor and a speed sensor? So the speed sensor is installed on the transmission, where is the revolutionary sensor?

PS: when you say stuck in 3rd gear, your not really stuck in it. Your care is in limp mode and will not shift any higher than 3rd. Your rpm will also be limited to something like 3k.
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p...58#post8916958 go down the page an you'll see where I took a picture of the sensor from the driver wheel well when I removed the splash guard
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p...58#post8916958 go down the page an you'll see where I took a picture of the sensor from the driver wheel well when I removed the splash guard
that link wont work for me! but this is starting to sound more and more like my issue... im getting pretty excited hahahahaha
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:10 PM
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You have to remove the "M" before Maxima in the link
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:23 PM
  #77  
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Check the Tranny Fluid make sure its at level.


Almost 2 quarts low on refill, and would hardly engage much less creep forward. More we put in, then the car moved better in gear ...
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:38 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by LuminousX
You have to remove the "M" before Maxima in the link

ok i see it now, so the one on the tranny is the one i need to worry about because my gauges are correct.

thanks those pics helped me visualize more i was really confused on which sensor was where haha
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:06 AM
  #79  
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np, change that by removing the driving wheel, and the splash guard then undo the 10mm bolt, then remove the intake on your car to reach down, and unplug it, good luck
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