max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i originally had an egr code, but after scanning it last night there was no codes at all. i saw another thread that indicated a maf problem and wondered if that might be the issue. i don't drive her all the time anymore, just 2-3 days a week as i have another car now. i noticed on rainy humid days like the last 2 she runs really rough, always has. any help would be appreciated as once she warms up she's usually purring like a kitten.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Swap out the MAF and end the guessing game.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

question is, how long do the original maf's last? mine has 275,000, replacement time?

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Speaking of these (MAF Sensors), in reading many posts it seems as though changing these things out at some point in the car's life is routine and their replacement is very commonly and casually suggested as if the supply of the part were as plentiful as are spark plugs.

However, I guess I'm not sure where you guys are finding viable replacement pieces.

I'm pretty certain that, although still fully functional, mine is exhibiting symptoms of weakening and I'd like to change it out. However, used/salvaged seems to be only option.

My car is 16 years old and is honestly in near pristine condition ... under to the hood as well as everywhere else. I've owned it since brand new and I can guarantee you that this car has been quite meticulously maintained and I do tend to coddle it a bit obsessively.

So ... a MAF, in a car cared for and maintained like mine that's beginning to fail after 16 years and 147K miles (~9,200 mi/yr.) makes any used part I might be able to find very questionable in my mind as being in any better condition.

Am I making any sense?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Buy new if you want.
I have several spares from the junkyard to ease my mind and wallet.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You can get new a MAF on rock auto. They're something like $100. Before I spend $100 on a maybe, I would get one from a junk yard and see if that really solves the problem.

Another thing I would check is the ECTS. If that is reporting a colder temperature then what it should, that would make the fuel mixture too rich and cause chugging. Either measure the resistance or use an OBD reader when the engine/sensor is cold.

Alaskus

I had this same thing. It was the egr issue. Same intermittent chugging and rough idle. No regular code showed.

maxima297

I've been dealing with the same issue. Sometimes she doesn't turn over unless I press a bit on the gas. Once she fires up, no problem! But the cranking and the correlation with the colder wet weather makes me wonder what's causing it. And my car has 128k on it.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Your fuel pressure regulator may be the culprit.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

128,000??? i got my max at 129,000 over 10 years ago!!! now she's at 275,000!!! only thing i had going on back then was a temperature sensor and front pads/rotors. pretty sure i'd rather swap a lower mileage motor in maxy at this point. just want to get her through the winter so i can do that.

maxima297

She had 82k when I bought her in January. I've been up and down the east coast with it plus I drive 150 miles a day. Nothing had been done to it beyond basic maintenance.

maxima297

That's what another member suggested to me yesterday. Someone else mentioned the ects being a possible culprit. The warehouse has that and I'm waiting on the regulator to come as well. I hope one or both solve my starting issues.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

And now I know who this is.

Fellow spoonfeeders unite!

CS_AR

I usually try to keep a couple of spare MAFs in my workshop. Though I've used up my stock over the past couple of years.

To build up an inventory of working MAFs, I would purchase one from my local salvage yard, take it home clean it, let it dry overnight, then put it in the car to test it.

If the car ran good on the used MAF for a week, then I would keep it in the car and keep the other known working MAF in the workshop as a spare.

If failing MAF symptoms started with the used MAF, I would return it for credit or refund and find another donor.

Usually I would find one good MAF out of two salvage yard candidates. All used "no label" aftermarket MAFs I tested from junk yard cars were found to be bad. I suspect those bad MAFs contributed to the car being sent to the salvage yard.

I had a real round of issues with a failing EGR valve a couple of years ago on the 99 Maxima. I had various vacuum leak symptoms until one day it finally produced a code. I will never forget the day I replaced the EGR and the difference it made.

I remember replacing the EGR on the 95 Maxima that must have been due to a code or something very evident. I don't remember it taking anytime at all to find the issue on the vacuum operated 95 model EGR.

I've used BWD / SMP Intermotor brand EGR valves on both the 95 and 99 model without issue. If I can't use or get OEM, then I will only use the Intermotor brand.

Due to the consistent performance I've experienced over the years, I've been tempted to try a BWD / SMP Intermotor MAF. I know I can easily get a refund if one doesn't work.

The other idea is to purchase a MAF from a member in the classifieds, test it, and keep it in stock for when you need it.

LJay

I think it's most likely the MAF sensor. I bought that & a dry flow filter a couple of days ago. Just waiting for the MAF in the mail. Been having the same issues. Hopefully that solves them

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

After doing some reading and linking up some symptoms and reported failures, I've also switched to the dry air filter as opposed to the oiled.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i might need to clean my k&n filter and re-spray it, but i doubt it's that bad as i did it a few months ago. i think maf is causing my issues at this point.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Based on my reading, it's not the dirt associated with the oiled filters that becomes an issue ... it's the oil itself.

Apparently, over time and with extended use oil droplets can and may times are sucked from the filter element into the MAF sensor which fouls the sensor creating MAF related performance problems.

Although I cleaned my MAF not too too long ago, I did not re-clean it after switching to the dry filter ... something I really do need to do to make sure the element isn't fouled.

maxima297

Hahahaha! Small world, thanks to good ol' facebook!

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i don't spray that much oil onto the filter at all. just enough to lightly cover it as instructed, and only once every 12 to 16 months. however, i am on my 2nd one cause i used to lightly tap on the filter to get the crap out of it and get the excess water out and it bent the edges.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

checked the k&n today, little dirty but not too bad so i just banged out the leaves and it was good. went and got some seafoam and did that and then dropped some premium into maxy and after a few miles she was running better. saw some smoke coming out near the front while i was seafoaming her and i think there's a little exhaust leak which i already knew about. monday she goes into the shop to fix a mount and the e-brake cable. getting her back in shape.

jayboydog

I got a Duralast MAF sensosr from Autozone. Lifetime warranty. 20% off sometimes when ordering online.