KP11520

(( SE with ABS and TCS in NY exposed to salted Winter Roads since birth.....

I know if original, the bolt head just about always shears off. I've also heard the sensor is likely to be locked into the steering knuckle?

If so, what have you done to get the bolt and/or sensor out to replace them with a new sensor and new Stainless Bolt with Anti-Seize Compound?

Also, OEM would be nice but are limited to what's on the shelf at a dealer. Any aftermarket worth it?

Thanks Gang!

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Try some heat first. If that won't loosen them, drill them out. No sense in wasting effort in prying it out if the sensor is that siezed.

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Shrout1

Oh shoot my front right hub is whirring a whole bunch, started up last weekend. I've heard that some penetrating oil can help? Maybe soak it for a couple of days? Is there a place to get replacements if I screw it up and are there any good guides for re-running the wire?

Hmm looks like Rock Auto has a whole bunch of them: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1999,maxima,3.0l+v6,1356780,brake+&+wheel+h ub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912
Any recommendations or sensors to avoid?

Some old threads on this same topic (not extremely useful):
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...r-removal.html
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ensor-wtf.html
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...val-grrrr.html

KP11520

Thanks Gentlemen!

Heat? How much before trashing the bearings? Or liquefying the grease to the point where it's gone? Aren't plastic spacers between the ***** used?

I'm guessing the quiet means "Best of Luck wit dat! LOL OUCH! JS is going to be right on with the old fashioned way!

Both of you have the same 99 SE-L and probably loaded with everything I have! I'll be the guinea pig. Shrout1, If you pull the knuckle and bring it to a mechanic that has a press and a kit, and bring new bearings, seals and retainer rings, you can usually reuse the hubs unless they're damaged. I'd do both sides. If one is toast, the other isn't usually far behind.

Rock Auto is stupid money for Standard Motor ABS sensors! I hope to find some NOS OEM for ~$140.

Use NSK bearings (2) and Timken makes the retainer clip rings You'll need 4. National makes good seals (4). I found a pair of NSK bearings on eBay. Here is a place that sells them reasonable. You need 2, one for each side: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-Front-NSK-42BWD06/183471206898?epid=798000708&hash=item2ab7bc71f2:g: ZNAAAOSwkSxbImvs:rk:4f:1&frcectupt=true

Shrout1

Ok I'll remember to look for those parts. I got some cheapo $30 a pop chinese hubs a couple years back when I did the CV joints. I didn't realize what a pain in the butt replacing the hubs would be, so I decided to shelve the project. Perhaps rebuilding the OEMs makes more sense, though I have limited garage time at a buddy's house at the moment and my one-car garage at my apartment complex is horrible. If a hub rebuild is an afternoon job then he probably won't mind me leaving the car there for a little bit. I usually pay in beer

There are $12 front ABS sensors on Rock Auto :P Not sure I want to trust my safety to that. Let me know if you find some good quality ones for a better price than rock auto and I'll buy them from your source, if there's enough of them to go around.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Anytime heat is used you need to be careful. How much heat is dependent on the situation and the torch being used.

Another option is to pound it out from the inside, which means removing whatever is in the way.

Drill​​​​​​ing sounds the easiest.

Shrout1

Aw man at like $150 a pop (minimum) I'd prefer to get the sensor out whole... I know that might not be an option buuuut... I need some nanites to go in there and separate this thing from the hub

Ok rando thought, what about finding some ABS equipped maxima at a junkyard near me and stripping the whole knuckle, sensor, hub and all. I have no idea if this is the kind of thing that other people have done. I hate spending like $400 to fix my front wheel hubs, but I'm not going to part ways with the car... I'd love a cheaper option

KP11520

So Mr Alabama Slammer (Alcohol shots from the late 70's that were dangerous)

First, The old bearings get pressed out of the steering knuckle and new ones get pressed in, then use retainer clips to keep them positioned, and then seals. Then the Hub w/studs gets pressed into that. If your ABS sensors aren't giving you any trouble, DON'T touch them. Instead follow the wire to inside the wheel well and disconnect them there. Yes you'll have the wire dangling when you get the bearings changed, but they see this all the time. NOBODY wants to jack the price through the roof by ruining them to do bearings.

Kamikaze was the other shots offered at most bars back in those days. More applicable to Nissan Maximas. LOL But YOU get the best of both worlds (or NOT) Talk about toilet prayers!

Shrout1

OMG I didn't think that was possible If you get your *** down here I'll buy you a beer. A well deserved one!

Hey are there *any* videos on doing this? I'm supremely lazy and want to see someone doing it before I do it.

Shrout1

Hahaha at least I don't have vehicle inspections. My rusty parts can fall off whenever they darn well choose to

JvG

One option is to separate what you can from the car, then take that to a shop so that they can work on the parts which you cannot.

Sometimes we think that we can't perform a larger task because we can't do all of the work on our own. But we don't have to. We can do what we can, then give the nice man at the shop some of our money.

I like your idea of finding a jy car which has a good abs on it. Bonus if the other parts in the assembly are in better condition than your own.

Other members have done similar things.

Shrout1

Oooh found a video of a guy doing the hub / bearing replacement on his driveway. Looks like he was able to use some kind of a screw press to get it out.


He even linked the kit he used to do the job; only about $65 on Amazon . The hubs might be an easier job than I thought...

Sorry to co-opt your ABS sensor thread KP! I thought they were related I'll leave you alone now.

KP11520

NOPE! I want that beer you promised!

The hardest part is pulling the knuckle off the ball joint without damaging the ball joint! Careful with the Tie Rod end too!

Make sure you have the right socket for the Axle Nut and Torque Wrench. I torque them to 205 ft pounds.

Shrout1

I do have that socket! When I did my halfshafts in 2017 I got all the gear I needed. My torque wrench goes up to 250 lb/ft so I should be good to go!

I have a ball joint separator (need to dig it out of the garage) that's much more gentle than a pickle fork ( ) but I have a pickle fork too. I've often thought about putting a huge dill pickle on it and taking a picture.

KP11520

Pervert! LOL