Hi all. Long-time .org member and Maxima owner here, having owned the same ‘95 Maxima since getting it in ‘99 as its second owner.

i am nearing the fix or get rid decision point as I have some issues with the latest being needing to replace the rear brakes. The right one has been sticking for ages, then started groaning on turns recently and now grinds/groans at low speeds.

i would try replacing the brakes myself but am wondering if this is worth it. I have never done anything with brakes but have replaced smaller engine parts and hoses (fuel/vacuum/water) myself but am worried it is too much for a novice, if something were to get stuck or break, for example.

Whether i do this myself or not, should I do the left rear at the same time, since it’s likely going to need it soon?
enough?

What parts do I need, if I want to do the calipers, brackets, rotors, pads, and anything else to fully restore the brakes? Are there full kits available? How much can I expect to spend?

Can anyone share advice? Thanks in advance!

 

All parts are available, and affordable. The work is not that difficult.

You probably need brake pads. Possibly new rotors.

You may need to replace a caliper. Those are also rebuildable, don't cosy much.

This project will take some time.

Probably ideal to disassemble, then order only the parts you need. You tube will have the videos.

 

Get new (rebuilt) calipers at your local auto parts store. They have a warranty which makes getting them swapped out easier. I did mine last year and one had to be replaced under warranty after a short while.

Edit: I should add, the lifetime warranty was handy on my old car. I replaced the rear calipers a few times due corrosion. The piston rusts and causes the brakes to stick. I've been called Jonny smoke brakes a few times. I've also had the parking brake mechanism seize. The calipers are a bad design.

Pads and rotors can be had anywhere really.

Check your parking brake cables. Make sure they operate freely.

You'll have to bleed the brakes. If you are not comfortable with this, get help or have a shop do the whole job.

 

I have my 95 since new. Replaced the rear rotors and calipers a couple years ago. I got calipers from NAPA, they are very good reman, holding up pretty well. Whether to retire the car really depends on the condition of remaining of the car. Rear brake is easy job and it is inexpensive. IMHO, The brake alone is not a good reason to abandon it.

 

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

Wanted to get some thoughts before heading overseas to visit my wife’s family so thanks again for your inputs. It’s hot as hell in Philly right now so I’m glad I have some time to think about what to do.

I’ll check back in with how I make out.

 

Look at some you tube videos.

Either about our car or something similar.

Familiarize yourself with the parts and repair proceedure for a while.

You will find that it's not a very difficult job.

 

First, you should probably bleed your brake fluid. Then, you'll probably need to re-grease your caliper sliding bolts/parts. Check your pads/rotots for replacement if needed. Not very expensive.

 

If it were me, and yes I've been there, I would replace the flexible brake hoses, buy loaded rebuilt calipers, new pads and rotors and be done with it. At 24 year old your biggest issue will be rust, no sense fighting all that.

 

I wouldn't retire a car if all it needed was brakes. New pads and rotors are cheap for these cars. Any parts store should have them. If you are doing calipers, you should get new brake hoses too.

 

Replacing brake pads all around would be a good idea if you're going that route. In that you shouldn't be fixing just one side, or just the rears if the entire braking system needs new pads. When you are done it should feel smooth as butter coming to a stop, not still acting up because you only fixed one corner.

Firestone will replace pads and turn rotors for around $300. Not a bad price if you don't want to be in it. If it turns out he caliper is sticking only because the guide pins are seizing up they will correct that problem as part of the deal. Now if you need a rotor or 2 or 4, it will go up from there. Look online for pricing, some places might let you bring your own rotors, but for them to warranty their work you'll likely need to use whatever brand they provide. Anywhere from about $150 to over $200 for 4 rotors.

Now if the caliper is the issue, you only need to replace the malfunctioning one, in that you don't need to do both sides. If this were a rotor replacement, I'd say yes both sides, or a wheel bearing or a strut both sides. but it's a malfunctioning caliper, it doesn't need to be replaced in pairs.

For someone that has never done this before, I would recommend you either have a friend come over that has done it before, or don't mess around, just pay Firestone. I only say that because once you get the car up, if you're unfamiliar with everything going on, and you wanted to work on all 4 corners in your driveway, we're talking about an all day job as you learn the ropes. Guys at a shop will spend longer time waiting on parts then to actually do the task, and if it turns out you just need the rotors resurfaced, they can knock that out while the car is on the lift.

 

Just but new rotors. Rockauto prices start at $24 for a pair of rotors and $6 for a set of pads.

 

I'm about to do this very job tomorrow in the parking lot of my apartment complex in NJ. Calipers/brackets, rotors and pads. Ill try to stay on top of everything I needed to get it done if your interested. i just did the fronts last week. i was suffering from a heavy pulsation when braking I figured out it was warped rotors.

 

The symptoms are indeed that you. Have one on your calipers wearing the pad out than the others is a indication of a seizing rear brake caliper. The car if its driven for a while on this type of peoblem than not only the calipers will need to be replaced but the rotors as well from all the worn pads. Causing metal to metal contact and eating the rotors away causing them to get resurfaced or replaced. Honestly if you need brakes all around now would be the good time to do so replace them all. Replace alll pads and rotors with that seized calper. It can be rebuilt piece be piece or better yet replace the whole thing with the new or rebuilt calper already to go from the local auto parts store with a lifetime or manufacture warranty from the store. Don't forget this will require dot 3 brake fluid flush and brake fluid .

 

If you're going new rotors, pads, calipers and hardware and haven't ever or for a long time changed the hoses, RETHINK that!

Hoses disintigrate from the inside-out often enough and cause a lot of problems. Maybe even ruining the new pads and rotors.

Goodridge makes a set of 4 Stainless Hoses guaranteed Forever for a little over $110. About 60% more than quality new regular name brand, Or use regular. But change them.
If you're going to do the whole job... Do the WHOLE job. And flush out all the Brake Fluid with new as you bleed the system.

And as for all the rear calipers for 4th Gens... They all suck. Some just suck a little less. LOL

 

Just got finished. I noticed that when I first got the car about 2 years ago, I had to tighten the parking brake cable. Just figured out today that I need two new cables in the back because the rear driver side was completely seized up due to one of the brackets being bent upwards and was digging into the body mount near the rear control arm. The cable is so swollen with rust it looks like a pingpong ball is stuck in it LOL. So I left it disconnected for now. The same thing is happening with the passenger side but it still works for now. Probably was causing uneven tire wear and bad fuel economy.

 

Junking a car for brakes? Nah.

Brakes are one of the simplest jobs to do. But do it properly.

Here's some advice.

Know what you're changing and pre-order your parts. It will minimize the time your car's on jack stands. Don't forget to compare the new parts with the old ones. Sometimes parts guys do screw up. Personally I don't use semi-metallic pads as I've seen chunks of metal on the braking surface of some pads that will often cause squealing and a "nice" circular line on the disc's surface. I personally go with ceramic.

If you're doing one side, do them both. Brakes are like buying a pair of shoes. If anyone tells you that you can change only the pads or only to do one side... I'm sorry, but they probably learned on YouTube and don't belong anywhere near a car. Do the discs as well if you're changing pads.

If you're changing a caliper you need to bleed the air out of the system. It's relatively easy with a vaccum pump or get a friend to pump the air out of the lines while you operate the bleeder valve. If you're not sure about this I'd suggest bringing it to a professional. If you are confident you can handle this, then look up the procedure for bleeding brakes.

If you're using your old brackets, make sure your guide pins aren't seized up. (I've seen people confuse siezed guide pins for a siezed caliper.) You should be able to easily pull them out by hand. You wanna take the metal spacers off of the old brackets. Thoroughly clean the surfaces of your brackets and both sides of the metal spacers where your pads sit or you most probably will have fitment issues. Trying to force the pads into their guides is a no no for obvious reasons. Your pads should be snug, but capable of moving along the metal spacers. Pay attention to how they are installed before you remove them. Also, make sure you use the right grease for your guide pins after you clean off the old stuff. The grease is usually included with a decent set of new pads, along with the metal spacers. Some new calipers come with new brackets. Ask your parts guy.

If calipers, brackets, and spacers are all new there's no need to clean everything. Grease and install. The guide pins come pre-greased in the new brackets. The only thing I would highly recommend cleaning regardless is the mating surface between the hub and the disc. Adding a some antiseize between the hub/disc will help prevent rust from welding the discs to the hub.

If you wanna start changing rubber lines at least make sure they actually need to be changed. Don't just throw money at your car for nothing.

Any questions I'd be happy to clarify.
SSC

 

The rule of thumb for warped rotors is simple. While braking : If it only vibrates in the steering wheel it's in the front. If it only vibrates in the pedal it's the rear. If the whole car feels like it's vibrating, check all 4 corners

 

Great info above. If you're going to remove or replace the rotors then here's a helpful tip: our rotors like to get stuck on the hub. But the rotors have empty bolt holes built into them. These holes are for us to screw in a bolt that separates the rotor from the hub. Once you screw the bolt in far enough, the rotor pops right off.
The bolt size I needed for the front was different than the back.
The size I needed for the front is an m10 x 1.25
The rear needed a m8 x 1.25.
Doesn't need to be anything fancy, you can go to any hardware store to pick them up. Beats using a puller, or beating the hell out of them with a bfh.

 

Yup they do like to stick. I've found that some antisieze and a decent ball peen hammer gets them off easily enough though. Its safer to use those bolts also as you don't run the risk of smacking one of your wheel studs when you're beating the crap out of your rotor..

 

A rubber mallet is a good way to remove the rotor too.

If you have ABS, may as well clean the sensors when the rotor is off.

 

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I’ve ordered a full PowerStop rear break kit and two hoses, all from RockAuto. Will line up my mechanic once the parts arrive. I can’t do this kind of work in the heat we’ve been having lately. Can barely cut the grass, lol.

 

My mechanic charged me for two hours’ labor so total cost to get the new rear brakes and calipers installed was $150 - well worth it!

Thanks again for the advice.