Awhittington

I have an 99 maxima se had water pump replaced along with fixing the timing and now car will start but security light stays on and feels like breaks are locked up. What can I do

Shrout1

The red light with the word "Security" next to it? And the car starts? Here is a video of a NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft) Malfunction from my car in August. I have a '99 SE-L. Note that the red light stays on and the car will not start.


If NATS is actually on then the car shouldn't start... But maybe your ECU has been swapped out... Any chance you can post a video of the issue?

Awhittington

As of this last Thursday night. Its still at the shop. I had to slowly take it back. The light stays on but I'm able to start it. Only could go 3 mph to get it back to the shop.

Shrout1

Ok do you have a code reader / scanner? I am not sure what's going on with your vehicle but apparently no one else is either.

I just picked up one of these a few weeks ago and it has more functionality than a normal code reader without a lot more cost:
Want to know what error codes your getting and any ECU info you might have, serial number etc. We need to see exactly what your system is saying as your error is not normal.

KP11520

Shrout1 suggests a OBD II scanner in case you don't have one. Anybody trying to save paying mechanics shoud have one!

But to help with your security light and under performance, You'd need a Consult II reader and programming setup, complete with whatever software NISSAN used back then.

What do you mean by timing? Chain problems? Chain jump a tooth? Unless they gave you back a fine running car and it went south, they didn't really fix your timing issues.

Here on Long Island, there's a guy that has a van full of all kinds of ECU and security machines along with the knowledge to fix anything. Most mechanics know when it's time to call him. Maybe you have someone mobile near you.

Awhittington

So I finally got the car back. Now I'm clueless. The car will run and drive fine for a couple miles then the brakes will lock up. I'm thinking it has air in the lines or the caliper. What do y'all think

JvG

The brake issue is not related to your other issues.

The rubber brake hoses can delaminate from the inside out. The loose rubber inside the line can act like a one-way valve. Brake fluid under pressure can get passed through the loose rubber. But the caliper will remain somewhat pressurized. That creates brake drag which gets worse as the brake pad expands due to heat.

Drive the car till you have the issue. Then touch all 4 wheels at the center. The hottest one will have the brake issue.

KP11520

^^^^^^ THIS! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

And maybe a caliper (or two) that has frozen with rust at an expanded position that when pushed hard enough will grab more, but not retract.

Air? Air is the opposite of the density of brake fluid. It compresses way too easy to lock brakes. Wipe that thought from your mind. The internet is full of stupid statemnents by clueless people. All air can do in your brake lines is make them less effective.

Hoses, Calipers and maybe even a Master Cylinder might all be looked at carefully and replaced as needed. Then a COMPLETE brake fluid flush and bleed. And if your rotors are scored and/or pads low, replace those as well.