http://www.technosquareinc.com/maxima.htm

 

Independent = NOT TECHNOSQUARE!!!!!

Preferably on a DynoJet.

 

I do believe the 2nd graph is a Dynojet
While not independant at least it's a start...

 

Independent DynoJet dyno is a MUST to settle all the naysayers and bandwagoneers waiting to jump on.

100% INDEPENDENT DynoJet dyno. No more...no less.

 

Although those numbers look somewhat normal for the mods the car has less the ECU reflash on a good running car...

 

I agree, I agree...
I just thought that you were refering to there not being a Dynojet graph on the page.

 

Plus, where's the torque?

That's the original 2K2(2K3?) 6spd...no automagic dynos yet.

Hopefully, some of the FIRST few that buy will ante up and take one for the team, so the rest will feel warm and fuzzy about buying.

 

No...

Just saying ANY type of dyno will work as long as a BEFORE AND AFTER are done on the SAME dyno.

DynoJet dynos are just prefered, since that's what kind most of us know.

 

yea the second dyno graph is an independent graph. he did that when he got back at home in no cal. well il will try to dyno but E55amg2 will dyno soon. but im sure there is a gain and its well worth it
later

 

Keep reading...

They already have a 6th gen donor ECU... me!!! They said that Techtom Japan was currently backed up and want to wait until after the Thanksgiving holiday. I will be negotiating all the fine details with them in the weeks to come.

Patience. Time and Patience. That's all it takes.

 

Thanks studman for the update on the 6th gen ecu. So far we dont have crap for mods and im getting mod fever all of the sudden with nothing to do to the car. right now ive got the eibachs and trenz grill on my 04 6 speed and if I/H/E, ECU, grounding kit, high flow cats and other lil mods were available I would like to purchase them. Ive been trying to find out if any of these things I listed would work on my car if it was say a Z grounding kit or altima intake/header. I dont know how the exhaust compares to the other cars but they couldnt be to different could they?? oh well, thanks again.

 

Get some rims!

 

Us 02-03 people have had our cars for over 2 years and we're just now getting headers and cams, so you may have a slight wait ahead of you.

 

Yeah I guess il just have to sit it out and see what happens. Although I would think most of those parts would fit with slight modification. Oh and rims may be coming soon. Im one for performance so I didnt wanna slow my car down with 19s but I may have to because 18s dont stand out. anyways im leaning toward the ROH fury in chrome. I did a chop in 6th gen forum on my car and think it looks pretty good, check it out and tell me what yall think. Later

 

btw, us 02-03, even 00 and 01 people don't have official "grounding kits".....we made them ourselves. you don't need to purchase a set. just get some 8awg wire yourself and ground some significat/primary points and you just created your own grounding kit.

believe me, and believe us, you don't need to purchase your own kit. some 8awg wire and some 8awg ring terminals and you are DONE.

 

Does the grounding kit gain power? Ive read on the 350 boards and they say best bang for buck mod. Smoother idle and acceleration and has been dynoed to gain some power. Anyways I dont know all the grounding points on the 04s and the kits they were selling were 60 shipped I believe and came in many colors. I would rather have less hassle and just buy one of those in the color I want and have some instructions with it unless someone can convince me otherwise. Thanks though

 

yup. I bought a "kit" and thats basically all it is.

 

My ECU returned from TS today. We'll see how she handles tonight.

 

dyno dyno dyno

 

Got my ecu back yesterday. Spent all day trying to get service light to go out. Followed intstructions from TS to the T. Even with a stop watch. There instruction varies a little from posts on ecu reseting. Went to dealer this morning and had cleared. Had 8 service codes and a blown fuse. Service tech. gave me the what the fu*k you do to this car look on his face.Fortunatly it was covered under warranty. Hope this doesn't happen again. Well, the car runs smoother and pulls a little harder.( Will get dynoed next week.) One thing that do's suck is the fact you have to manual shift to hit the 7100 rpm rev limit on the autos. I first thought that I had been had when I got on it and it shifted at the stock setting 6600, But after calling TS this was all cleared up.

 

Well, the car runs smoother and pulls a little harder.( Will get dynoed next week.)

Whaaat..... that's it??? I was hoping to hear "holy **** this thing as a monster now" Well mabye not that but at least a little more commentary on the preformance aspect of this mod. Especially given the price. I need mooooore pleeease. Thanks.

 

Can you explain the procedure you followed uninstalling and then reinstalling your ECU?

Did you disconnect the battery BEFORE you disconnected anything?

 

The car won't shift at 6600 RPM when you leave it in drive. It shifts at 6000-6100 RPM...unless the TS ECU now allows it to shift at 6600 RPM without manually shifting it...

Every single auto I've driven shifts @ approx. 6K RPM...

 

1) Disconnect the battery
2) Remove the plastic trim on the side of the ECU on both the passenger's and driver's side of the ECU.
3) Disconnect the electrical connector from the ECU. You have to press in on the white tab while lifting the black handle to get it connector to release from the ECU. Continue to rotate the black handle until it locks into place on the other side of the white connector cover. You'll see what I mean when you do it.
4) Using an 8mm open-ended wrench and/or an 8mm small socket and ratchet, remove 1 screw from each corner of the ECU. 2 are accessible from the driver's side. 2 are accessible from the passenger's side.
5) Slide the ECU out on the passenger's side.
6) Reinstallation is the same process reversed.

Yes.

Update:
Well, the MAF that was sent to me is also defective. I'm awaiting a UPS RED delivery of a 2003 MAF that is guaranteed to work. So I'll visit the dealer tomorrow (or Saturday) to get the second ECU programmed. I'll continue to update people as I go.

Be advised of this: When the ECU returns from TS, BEFORE starting the car, you need to reset the ECU. My ECU had 22 codes stored in it. Once the ECU is reset, it will clear all the stored codes and erase any learned settings. It will then take 100 miles to learn your new settings, so immediate feelings will be enhanced over time.

 

why does it have so many error codes stored in it. doens't make sense. is the ecu modding creating an error that when reseted, is considered normal?

 

Not you...jerome johnson.

Wondering HOW he blew a fuse, I'm betting he either A)didn't disconnect the battery or B)stored charge blew it. I'm betting A).

 

The ECU cloning is basically a flashing of a pre-written image from another car. The values that are stored in the original image are different from the values that my (and other people's) car produce. When the ECU sees these unexpected values, it throws the codes. When you reset the ECU, it erases not only the codes, but all the learned settings from the flash. Then the ECU will learn your settings in your car from scratch. That's why you have to reset the ECU when you get it back.

NOTE: DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT start the car without resetting the ECU first. Failure to reset the ECU could result in damage to the ECU or other components of your car.

 

Just for my clarification: Once the ECU has been flashed by TS, it cant be "unprogramed" accidently, right? The new fuel mapping, redling, etc is permenently set in the ECU? Resetting it is just like getting rid of the SES codes, same as we do after the Drop Resistor mod for example sets off an SES?

 

not sure how I blew fuse or what fuse was blown. This was told to me by service tech. Also I had diconnected the battery before and after ecu install & removal. I did start car after install. Did not know I had to try and clear codes befor starting. Was now instructions on procedure. It started fine took about 3 sec. of cranking to start though. I guess from sitting for 3 days in cold 35f.

 

how else could you know you have a problem without starting car . I mean the ses light comes on when you have key on the "on" position. you would still have to start in order to see if it go's out. Wish their was a warning to not start car after reinsalling ecu. When gear selector is placed in drive shifts at 6-6400 rpm same as stock (depends on how torque converter is acting) Manual shifting required when wanting to reach 7100 rpm. Well, after the initial start up and drive everthing worked fine. I called TS and talked to Danny, he assured me that even with light on it wouldn't hurt anything. Just was frustrated when I tried to reset ecu. thought I would break floor board & gas pedal as many times I tried to reset ecu. Was pleased with the cust. support by Danny. Would go to track tonight to see some results , but figures it would snow its a*s off the last day of track season. best time 1/4 14.40@96.4 Injen intake, Frankencar exhaust, UR pulley.

 

No...it can't be "unprogramed" UNLESS you go to the dealer and they reflash your ECU for a TSB or something. Only the faults are cleared by resetting the ECU.

 

i just recieved an email from TS and they said "you have to send your stock ECU to us"... when i recieve the TS ECU then i'll send my stock ECU right? not before because without ECU cant drive...right?

 

No, you take out your ECU and send it to them. You're car will be down for a few days until you get it back.

 

My ECU is in and the MAF is fixed. Today is day one and I drove 59 miles to a dealer and back. I was having a spare ECU checked out. But the good thing to note was that I didn't throw a SES light for the O2 sensors like I used to.

As far as the feeling, the throttle response is definitely quicker and lag-free. I haven't gotten the chance to do over 4500 RPMs in it yet, mainly because of a newly installed junkyard MAF. Once the ECU has had it's 100 miles to adjust, I'll open her up and rip her a new one.

I'll be getting track times next week, but the dyno shop is backed up through the holidays. I'm shooting for the week between Christmas and New Years for dynoing.

More to follow later... Questions are welcome.

 

holy ****!!! hell no!! i have to find a TS dealer somewhere in NY, MA, RI... because they dont have any TS dealer in CT... who knows any TS dealer?

 

Ha,Ha,HA!
The only place to get it done at this time is from them in CA.
Even if there was someone in you area that bought their hardware TS isn't selling their maps to anyone. The only other option you have is to buy an ECU from a salvage yard to put in your car while your original one is out of the car or just pick a time when you won't need the car for 3-4 days.

 

Why they need my stock ECU?

 

Because they alter the program in your stock ECU. Hence they need it to reprogram it. They are not giving you a new ECU.

 

Have you read ANY of this thread?

 

do you think it is easy to read 52 pages?