FIRST LOOK! SSR/SFR Turbo Kit for 5th Gen
#122
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Originally Posted by silvermax2k2
Yeah... that is one concern of mine. If the MAF can not handle an intake, and it just blows because of that, then what will happen when this isinstalled? we will have to have box of MAF in the trunk just incase one blows...
#123
No not a guru at all. Just some things people have told me. It would seem if you are running a scavenge pump (out of necessity in this case) alot more options for the drain should be open to you. I "think" most pumps can push/pull oil though about 30" of height. That's about 2 1/2 feet. So SSR might be able to tap a valve cover (that can be taken off easy to tap) or something other than the oil drain plug. I can see why as you don't have to remove the oil pan for install etc.. But one of the valve covers or timing covers should be fairly easy to take to tap for a connection. If it was a valve cover (ie.. front one), I'd try to tap the far front end so the hot oil would basicly just drop all the way down into the pan.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
No idea Jeff, you're the scavenge pump guru.
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Originally Posted by KCMC582
whats SSR's website? i know i have been on it before, at least i think, but me and google cant find it now...
#126
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Originally Posted by Dave B
While the worksmanship looks suberb, I question the location of this turbo. Maybe it's the angle of the camera, but it sure appears to me that the turbo is hanging lower than the tranny case. While I don't have much experience with 5th gens, I know that with H&Rs, my ground clearance between the lowest point of the tranny case was around 6" and that the crossmember was around 5" on my 96 Maxima. By looking at this pic, the turbo seems to hang an inch or two below the tranny case and that's without the feed line attached which could make for even less ground clearance. I could only assume that the 5th gen has the same type of clearance as my 4th gen did. Also, most guys want springs lower than H&Rs so chances are they have less clearance than I did.
Assuming what I'm seeing is correct, there are the two major issues I see with this turbo location:
1) With the location of the turbo, it is quite possible to submerge the turbo in higher water over 4". While you'd be stupid to go through such deep water, sometimes you don't even see it coming regardless of how careful you are. Getting a splash of water on the turbo housing isn't a big deal, but submerging the housing will almost always crack it because of the rapid cooling.
2) With the location of the turbo, it is quite possible to hit road debris, an animal, and a severe dip and catch the turbo. Usually the cross member will hit these items with little or no damage is caused, but smacking a possem at 70mph with 4" turbo of ground clearance could rip the thing clean out. Worst yet, the mounting point of the turbo to the tranny case could potentially crack or break the tranny case on impact. The alumninum tranny cases are quite brittle.
Hopefully I'm completely wrong. I still think locating the turbo where the battery is situated is best location. It's easy to get to and it's away from danger.
Assuming what I'm seeing is correct, there are the two major issues I see with this turbo location:
1) With the location of the turbo, it is quite possible to submerge the turbo in higher water over 4". While you'd be stupid to go through such deep water, sometimes you don't even see it coming regardless of how careful you are. Getting a splash of water on the turbo housing isn't a big deal, but submerging the housing will almost always crack it because of the rapid cooling.
2) With the location of the turbo, it is quite possible to hit road debris, an animal, and a severe dip and catch the turbo. Usually the cross member will hit these items with little or no damage is caused, but smacking a possem at 70mph with 4" turbo of ground clearance could rip the thing clean out. Worst yet, the mounting point of the turbo to the tranny case could potentially crack or break the tranny case on impact. The alumninum tranny cases are quite brittle.
Hopefully I'm completely wrong. I still think locating the turbo where the battery is situated is best location. It's easy to get to and it's away from danger.
As for the water issue... good point. I'll have to talk to Tim about it... I'm thinking it would be easy enough to fabricate a sheet metal splash shield to protect it from random splashes... now driving through a deep puddle is a different story...
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Originally Posted by RastaManMax
Interesting. What are the specs on the turbo? Will it be offered with other turbo options? What are you going to use for fuel management? Must be insane trying to control a turbo 3.5, this thing should not only produce some serious whp, but with the extra displacement, it should be putting out some nice torque figures as well. As 99% of the people want +1 for dyno and completed pics/specs/availability.
LEMAR
LEMAR
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Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
Is that roadkill blood on the transmission?
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Along with Dave B's concerns, how does the oil return from the turbo work with the turbo as low as the oil pan? It looks like return oil will have to be actively pumped back to the engine sump.
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Perfect turbo location IMO, exactly where I planned/wanted it.
Only things I don't care for are the MAF location, IC, non-BB turbo, engine management, and fuel injectors, but hopefully they offer a tuner kit.
SFR/Tim do AWESOME work....FINALLY someone took SSR up on their offer.HNDA ETR
Only things I don't care for are the MAF location, IC, non-BB turbo, engine management, and fuel injectors, but hopefully they offer a tuner kit.
SFR/Tim do AWESOME work....FINALLY someone took SSR up on their offer.HNDA ETR
What are your thoughts about the IC, Alex?
Tim told me that there isn't going to be much lag, he's guessing the turbo will start to kick in about 2500 RPMs... That and the cost are what kept me from going with a BB Turbo... that and the whole problem getting them rebuilt...
I'm getting the Stage 2 kit... I'm sure they will offer a Stage 1 kit (just like they do for the Alty) that will allow a person to build their own...
It might be possible to just buy the piping too... don't know for sure though...
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Look at the turbo orientation. Not much choice. The turbine outlet is pointing straight back towards the rear.
But on another note. If you guys think the turbo is low. I'm going to guess that the turbo feed pipes will hang even lower than the turbo. The flange is pointing pretty parallel to the ground but the feed pipes will have to come down under then around into the turbo feed flange?
But on another note. If you guys think the turbo is low. I'm going to guess that the turbo feed pipes will hang even lower than the turbo. The flange is pointing pretty parallel to the ground but the feed pipes will have to come down under then around into the turbo feed flange?
The pipe that feeds the turbo actually runs parrallel to the crossmember, then goes above it ... it runs between the front motor mount and the radiator, from what I remember...
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Per other kits, it will use a PSC1 from Split Second(http://www.splitsec.com/) for fuel control, however hopefully they offer a FTC1 as an option for fuel and timing. I would NOT run this kit without retarding timing.
I have an idea on the injectors, but I'll wait before I start on my .
I have an idea on the injectors, but I'll wait before I start on my .
I did have to have the timing reset to stock, I had it advanced as part of the Technosquare reflash.
In talking with Tim and Keith (Keith's the guy who owns that 1200hp Supra, and is Tim's partner at SFR) they both think the stock timing will be fine at the low boost level... They said if I ever did go with higher boost, I would have to retard it...
I do have the ignition harness for the e-Manage, so as soon as I get the correct diodes, Tony and I will install it...
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Originally Posted by Deckdout2
Wouldn't the setup be similiar to the 3.5 Altima kit that was done? By the looks of this, it would seem like the kit had little differences. Correct me if I'm off.
pic comp of ssr engineering......
pic comp of ssr engineering......
The Maxima's runs front to back - radiator to firewall...
So the piping had to be totally redone...
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Originally Posted by Bags
My questions exactly... And 50 deg water on a 1000 deg turbine may crack it with only small splashes.
Also, where is the oil return line going to feed back to?
What size piping are they using for the filter and where will it be located? ( I'm ASSuming they are not going to have the filter connected directly to the turbo)
What sump pump are yall using?
Not hating, as stated in the FI forum, just asking questions... trying to understand and get my lern on.
Also, where is the oil return line going to feed back to?
What size piping are they using for the filter and where will it be located? ( I'm ASSuming they are not going to have the filter connected directly to the turbo)
What sump pump are yall using?
Not hating, as stated in the FI forum, just asking questions... trying to understand and get my lern on.
What filter are you talking about?
Not sure which scavenge pump we're using...
me too..
#138
Originally Posted by HNDA ETR
Yeah, the MAF was my call... Tim gave me the option of putting it on the non-charged side, but he told me we'd have to recirculate if we did... I'll see what happens... if it ever does blow, I'll get a 2K/2K1 MAF and try that...
What are your thoughts about the IC, Alex?
Tim told me that there isn't going to be much lag, he's guessing the turbo will start to kick in about 2500 RPMs... That and the cost are what kept me from going with a BB Turbo... that and the whole problem getting them rebuilt...
I'm getting the Stage 2 kit... I'm sure they will offer a Stage 1 kit (just like they do for the Alty) that will allow a person to build their own...
It might be possible to just buy the piping too... don't know for sure though...
I'm getting the Stage 2 kit... I'm sure they will offer a Stage 1 kit (just like they do for the Alty) that will allow a person to build their own...
It might be possible to just buy the piping too... don't know for sure though...
#139
Also, what motor mounts are you running?
PR are melting with headers, so I can only imagine with the turbo they'll melt faster. Just wondering how the stock/ES mounts hold up with the increased heat.
PR are melting with headers, so I can only imagine with the turbo they'll melt faster. Just wondering how the stock/ES mounts hold up with the increased heat.
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Where is the MAF located and where is the air filter located?
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Just being picky, but end tank design and without having actually attempted to fit one, I'd prefer a vertical flow IC vs. the cross flow, but that might not be reasonable with our limited area or be ideal for our lower bumper facia inlet(especially 2K-2K1s). Also, I'm GUESSing that the intercooler discharge piping is running all the way across the engine bay?
Also, the intercooler is basically mounted right below the bumper support beam, so there's not much more space for anything bigger...
#141
Originally Posted by HNDA ETR
The oil pan will be tapped.
What filter are you talking about?
Not sure which scavenge pump we're using...
me too..
What filter are you talking about?
Not sure which scavenge pump we're using...
me too..
Your post count is about to going up 1000 in 2 days..lol
I'm trying to read all your responses so you don't have to qoute me or if I happen to ask the same question some one else did, you only have to answer it once. I know you may be a bit overwhelmed If there is ANYTHING that I may be able to help with ask, pm, or email me.
The filter on the turbo. There should be an air intake filter attached to the compressor side of the turbo. It can either be directly attached or by using pipes to attach it
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Also, what motor mounts are you running?
PR are melting with headers, so I can only imagine with the turbo they'll melt faster. Just wondering how the stock/ES mounts hold up with the increased heat.
PR are melting with headers, so I can only imagine with the turbo they'll melt faster. Just wondering how the stock/ES mounts hold up with the increased heat.
But I do have the new ES motor mounts at home... just gotta have them pressed in, then we'll swap out the PR ones... too much vibration for me...
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Originally Posted by Bags
Your post count is about to going up 1000 in 2 days..lol
I'm trying to read all your responses so you don't have to qoute me or if I happen to ask the same question some one else did, you only have to answer it once. I know you may be a bit overwhelmed If there is ANYTHING that I may be able to help with ask, pm, or email me.
The filter on the turbo. There should be an air intake filter attached to the compressor side of the turbo. It can either be directly attached or by using pipes to attach it
I'm trying to read all your responses so you don't have to qoute me or if I happen to ask the same question some one else did, you only have to answer it once. I know you may be a bit overwhelmed If there is ANYTHING that I may be able to help with ask, pm, or email me.
The filter on the turbo. There should be an air intake filter attached to the compressor side of the turbo. It can either be directly attached or by using pipes to attach it
Yeah, the air filer... lol... i just answered Alex about that... it's going to be a short pipe running into the wheel well...
Thanks for the offer of help, too!
#147
Originally Posted by HNDA ETR
Actually, Tim says that all of the piping will fit above the BlehmCo lower tie bar brace... so the brace will be the lowest part of the car...
The pipe that feeds the turbo actually runs parrallel to the crossmember, then goes above it ... it runs between the front motor mount and the radiator, from what I remember...
The pipe that feeds the turbo actually runs parrallel to the crossmember, then goes above it ... it runs between the front motor mount and the radiator, from what I remember...
Where the fans are?
The air will be a little hotter if it passes through the radiator, but I don't think it would be any cause of concern going more than 25 mph
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Do you know if the "Stage 1" includes headers?
Did they mock up a cross-pipe using the stock manifolds?
Did they mock up a cross-pipe using the stock manifolds?
I'm pretty sure that Tim didn't use the stock manifolds.... since I didn't have them installed (running the cattman headers)
#149
DAMN YOU~!
NM...
NM...
Originally Posted by HNDA ETR
I believe so... the Stage 1 kit for the Alty includes headers...
I'm pretty sure that Tim didn't use the stock manifolds.... since I didn't have them installed (running the cattman headers)
I'm pretty sure that Tim didn't use the stock manifolds.... since I didn't have them installed (running the cattman headers)
#150
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I hate you Roy! lol....with a vengeance! but you owe me a ride fer sher once it's done...and then a race so you can put my car to shame! is Tony back yet BTW? (not to hijack this thread or anything)....
I can't even imagine if you go to AEBS in san diego and get the 4.3L VQ stroker kit with the lower compression pistons for boost and the forged conn rods! you could run some serious boost then!!!
I can't even imagine if you go to AEBS in san diego and get the 4.3L VQ stroker kit with the lower compression pistons for boost and the forged conn rods! you could run some serious boost then!!!
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Originally Posted by michaelnyden
I hate you Roy! lol....with a vengeance! but you owe me a ride fer sher once it's done...and then a race so you can put my car to shame! is Tony back yet BTW? (not to hijack this thread or anything)....
I can't even imagine if you go to AEBS in san diego and get the 4.3L VQ stroker kit with the lower compression pistons for boost and the forged conn rods! you could run some serious boost then!!!
I can't even imagine if you go to AEBS in san diego and get the 4.3L VQ stroker kit with the lower compression pistons for boost and the forged conn rods! you could run some serious boost then!!!
Tony get's back tomorrow (15th...) He's in NYC... I actually just got into New Jersey this afternoon... not gonna be able to meet up out here though...
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when do you get back? and when is the projected date your car will be done?
btw, I checked hnda etr and it says that plate is still taken...don't worry, I wasn't going to get that plate without your permission anyway, I was just curious to see if it was still taken...
btw, I checked hnda etr and it says that plate is still taken...don't worry, I wasn't going to get that plate without your permission anyway, I was just curious to see if it was still taken...
#153
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Originally Posted by michaelnyden
when do you get back? and when is the projected date your car will be done?
btw, I checked hnda etr and it says that plate is still taken...don't worry, I wasn't going to get that plate without your permission anyway, I was just curious to see if it was still taken...
btw, I checked hnda etr and it says that plate is still taken...don't worry, I wasn't going to get that plate without your permission anyway, I was just curious to see if it was still taken...
there can be only 1 hnda etr...
#155
man i would so be all over this...if i didn't have to worry about emissions testing.... lol....so SC here we come lol.... =)
#156
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Originally Posted by myktek
man i would so be all over this...if i didn't have to worry about emissions testing.... lol....so SC here we come lol.... =)
so it's still a problem here...
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Originally Posted by myktek
turbo's usually will make u fail emissions.... =(
Don't forget, there are lots of cars that come with turbos from the manufacturer... so a turbo in itself won't prevent you from passing emisssions.. it's all in the design.
The design of this kit will only have a short distance between the turbo and my cat, so hopefully the cat will get up to operating temps..
A supercharger can also cause you to fail emissions... a SC still forces more air and fuel into the combustion chamber... if your car isn't tuned properly or for any number of other causes, your exhaust may contain too much fuel in it (running rich) which can also cause you to fail...
it's all in the tuning...