I will recalibrate or confirm my butt dyno Friday ....

 

What's your plan for the before/after dyno?

 

Not planning on using the consult to retard timing, but will jsut compare it to my previous, not that good of a comparison but hey, maybe it's something else besides the timing advance that seemed to add hp.

 

No, the engine definitely adjusts timing based on octane (or more specifically, whether or not the knock sensor starts getting hits). Timing will drop beyond standard (down to 13 degrees) with crappy gas.

 

Nope - zippo change in mpg. And I've been driving slower lately, but still seeing the same lousy mileage.

Still, given the choice of HP vs. mileage, I'll take the HP.

Otherwise, I've noticed a significant difference in power. After the change, have to be careful flooring it at almost any speed in 1st (auto), or the tires will spin. The effect seems to be higher in the rpm curve, up to 3k or so. Great mod for me, I'm at sea-level and can always find 93 octane gas.

 

I have an automatic and the timing advanced. Dealer did it for free at the same time they did the TSB for the sensors. I haven't noticed any difference, possibly less torque down low. I also live in Denver, Colorado, so maybe I need to retard to get my low end torque back. Also, I ping, ping, ping, on light throttle between 1500-2500 rpms. I have always used 89 octane, the highest available at high altitudes. (FYI-high altitude kills, I have only been able to get a best of 15.8 on the 1/4 mile)

 

I'm at higher alt. than you netween 5200-7400', and still have 90-91 octane. Sucks on the 1/4 times though

 

I am completely agree with the statement above that the difference can only be seen at RPM <2000. I feel smoother idle when advancing my timing to 17. Other than that, there is no difference at all. I even feel a lot less torque at 2000-3000RPM (or to be exact with auto trany it is between between 20-40mph under WOT). It really sucks! (IMO)

One worst mod i have ever had. I will bring it back to 15degree soon. Currently i fill my gas with Shall 93 octane (after having timing advance). Before i was at 89 octane.

 

I'm an auto 5.5th gen SE, and I just got my timing advanced to 17 degrees. She doesn't feel much different at high RPMs, but she seems a little more punchy off the line. I also noted slightly better gas mileage, but I've only had the timing advanced for a few days, so I'll have to wait for conclusive results on that.

When you pick a dealer to do this for you, shop around. Some will charge an insane amount, and others will do it for a $20. If you have a local Org member who is a Nissan service technician, see if he'll hook you up. I personally made the mistake of picking a really shady bunch at a dealership just north of Atlanta. It was going to cost me just $40 (under the table, hush-hush) to get my timing advanced, but I ended up paying $540 total after the tech told me he couldn't set my idle because my throttle body was bad. I believe that he had trouble setting my idle, because I had trouble with that myself. I was just a little bit uncomfortable with the used (stolen?) throttle body that "his buddy" magically had on hand to sell to me for JUST such an occasion.

Since my visit, I've come up with two shady scenarios to explain the weird behavior:

1. My throttle body wasn't bad, but he came up with a false excuse to explain the trouble I had setting my idle so he could charge me to "replace" the part even though my current throttle body is the same one I always had.

2. He really did replace my throttle body with a used part, but I doubt that he just happened to have one laying around that he felt like selling. He probably took it off another 5.5th gen in the service bay and gave that poor customer my bad throttle body. Then he charged me for the other guy's used part while charging the other guy full price for a new part to replace his throttle body.

In retrospect, I was really stupid. I should have asked to see the used part before he installed it, and I should have asked to keep (or at least see) my "bad" throttle body too. I paid $500 for a lesson in shady business practices. I guess I'll have to wait a few months to purchase the exhaust I was thinking about. I have no idea why I was such an idiot at the dealership. It immediately occured to me that something fishy was up after I left, but it was like I was having some sort of REALLY LONG brain fart the whole time I was there.

[The language filter won't let me say this part.]

 

That stings ...

 

On top of all the other crap, I found a small Snap-On chisel with a mangled tip under my hood after I got home. What the hell could they possibly have needed that tool for if all they were doing was advancing my timing and replacing my throttle body? I've removed my throttle body before, and I didn't need a chisel. It alarms the that they were using the chisel in the first place. It alarms me that the tip of the chisel was mangled. It alarms me that they left the chisel under my hood for me to find later.

If you're in metro-ATL, and you want to have your timing advanced, PM me first. I wouldn't want you to end up at the same dealership.

 

Can you advance the timing on a stock 4th gen ECU or would I have to buy a JWT or other aftermarket unit to advance the timing?

 

.

 

On a 4th gen, the ECU will forget the 2 degrees advance after you turn off the car.

 

Might cause pinging, but the ECU should fix that by retarding the timing if the knock sensor is detecting pinging, right?

 

Advancing your timing TOO FAR will result in pinging, but it's unlikely that a Maxima running 17 degrees will ping on premium fuel. Even if it did start pinging, the knock sensor would step in.

 

Guys,
I have an '03 and just talked with the Nissan guys of KY. They're firm in saying the computer will reset it back to 15 even if they change it. What do you guys think? B.S? I'd hate to pay $70 for them to "say" they changed it and really have nothing done.

 

Well so far i can say my idle is much smoother even after it being smoother from having my 60k tune up. and also i can tell a difference since they checked the throttle position. It seems as if i do not need to push down the pedal as much as i use to have to for it to down shift and such. also i think i now know why i may have thought i felt better on the highway...cruising at around 2500 rpms it felt much more responsive and didn't feel the need to down shift as much in order to get the acceleration i wanted. Overall i'm happy with the timing advance from what i've felt so far from driving around. my car idles smoother and i'm now taking more advantage to the 93 octain gas i've been putting in forever

 

Not correct - the change will stick (mine has, I've since checked).

BTW, the thread below is one of the best ones I've ever found on advanced timing, and convinced me to do the mod.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....dvanced+timing

 

someone in here had said earlier that he had his timing advanced to 17 degrees and overtime had the dealership check it to see if it stayed, and it did.

But i've been hearing that it resents on 4th gens ecu's not the 5th gens...tho can still retard down if you put in crappy gas/87

 

I'd just like to say that I can feel the pull most in the mid-range. From around 2500-4500.

 

I just got my timing advanced. I knew a guy who knew a service manager and he hooked us up for free. So, if the ECU gets reset will it lose the 17 degree timing and go back to 15? Also, if the CEL light comes on will the ECU retard the timing back to 15? I have an annoying EVAP control valve code that doesn't really do any harm but it will more than likely come back. So I am hoping the ECU doesn't return all ECU settings to a "safe" mode or something like that when the CEL light comes on.

 

Does it feel any different Eric?

 

Yeah I can feel a difference. It seems much more responsive and seems to pull harder in the lower gears as well. The car feels like a beast. I just want to floor it everywhere.

 

On a 2002/2003, restarting the car will not reset your base timing to 15. Disconnecting the battery will not reset your base timing to 15 either. If you get your timing advanced to 17, it will stick unless you reset the ECU or have somebody with a Consult II machine change the timing.

I disconnected my battery and removed it so I could reach my driver's headlight and clearance marker light more easily. When I hooked everything back up, I was afraid that I might have reset my timing back to 15. According to the OBDII scan tool at the dealership near me, my timing is still at 17.

 

So reseting your ECU, even by the acclerator pedal method will change your timing back to 15? How do you know this?

 

Someone knows. Let's go boys.

 

Alright here is the scoop guys. Reseting the ECU will NOT put the timing back into its normal 15 deg mode. On 01s you can go up to 20 deg by doing the special IACV function on the scanner, on 00s you can go up to 17 deg , same thing goes for the 02-03s. 4th gens "forget" their timing was advanced after the car is shut off, 5th gens use a highly advanced 32bit ECU which does not. Also I dynoed and got around 8WHP and 10-11lbs of TQ gain in the midrange with a 18deg timing setting on my 01.
For yall interested in doing the timing advancing, I can get it done for ya for 20 bux each car. I won't go past 17 deg on people cars cause each car is diff, and if the engine has too much carbon it will detonate with advanced timing too much. 93 octane is required with this "mod". It feels great, gets better gas mileage, and puts a smile on your face

 

Thanks BlackBIRD, anything on the CEL light bit though?

 

Thanks BlackBIRDVQ ... Now that's what I call INsight ... Tested, proven, by a valued memeber who won't run in the 1/4 j/k Just messing with you ..

 

All I get in cali is 91 Guess my car stays as it is. Thanks for the explaination.

 

belive it or not I am going to be going to the strip once I get a hold of some slicks that will clear my big brakes... I am going to a dyno in 2 weeks to prove that 3.0Ls can make some really supprissing WHP. As ya all know, I don't like drag racing, I am all bout road racing.

EPACY- If you know the code you got for EVAP, I can help you out. Maybe next Chicago Nissan BBQ ? look for info on the midwest section of the .org.

 

BlackBird, im in Downers Grove. I'll take you up on that offer. Where can we meet?

 

I'm trying to set up a Nissan BBQ, which will be a little Maxima/Sentra/240/350Z/Altima meet (usuall gang) over at Bussie Woods in Schaumburg IL. Last weekend of this month, we can have a few people roll up to the dealer where this work will be performed. If you guys wanna do it some other day, please PM me. I live up in Schaumburg.

17 deg is still safe on 91 octane gas btw, I experience no pinging even with 87 octane- as some gas stations try to pull off a scam here selling 87 as 93 octane, I can feel the diff in the gas pedal right away. Stock timing is set up to run on 87 octane, so 2 deg isn't going to kill the car that runs on even 87 octane, but I wouldn't recomend driving around with 87 and 17 deg for longetivity reasons.

My timing has been advanced for almost 4 years now, weird how people are now just catchn up on this "mod".

 

geez mike, if you gained that much with only a few degrees of timing advance why don't I feel a difference with the TS ecu that has heavily advanced timing?

 

B/C you're retarded timing that is ...

 

I'm thinking TS ECU might be detonating at load, or possibly your car is suffering from the normal DE-K syndromes- coils or MAF. It could also be my car is just a factory freak, I am going to go dyno soon, and I won't be too happy if I don't see 230WHP. I might sneak in a TS L-spec in there, pesky speedlimiter and rev limiter set too low need to be adressed here. I just did a compression test, its all exacly at factory spec all across the board- 105K miles of hard driving, 4 clutches, 10 sets of tires, and alot of mods being changed around. I wanna make sure shes ready for boost in the next few weeks

 

Got cams?

GOOD LUCK!

 

Ok thanks. But what about if the CEL light comes one, will it retard the timing, just because the light comes on?
I was told if it was the EVAP canister that all the lines would have to be blown out and the canister replaced. $600 or so from the dealer. With it not really being a performance hit, i might just leave it, although, if the CEL coming on for the EVAP valve makes my timing retard, I might have to changed the canister out so I can have 17 degree timing.

 

ECU doesn't change anything in its drive parameters- like timing, A/F or throttle opening just cause of the EVAP leak. EVAP system doesn't do anything for performance and it will not hurt your car. Most likely you over filled your gas tank- from topping off. EVAP system sucked in some gas and you need a new canister and lines just blown out- that is if Nissan is telling U the truth, but my speculation if they are its from topping off.

No Cams here, I don't feel they give enough power to justiffy the big install or hefty price tag.