steven88

iTrader: (28)

Okay, so my local firestone that I go to get lifetime alignments....says I needa new passenger inner tie rod cuz they can't adjust the toe...I order one from nissan and proceed to install it...now I read over my haynes and it doesn't mention anything about inner tie rod...I proceed anyway thinking to myself...what could be so hard about it?

Well in the long run, I got ....I am able to remove the outer tie rod...but can't get any further than that....how the heck do you remove the old INNER tie rod?!?! Right now, everything is put back together...I'm going to wait 1 more day to figure this out on my own before I take it to firestone....anybody have a clue how long a technician can install inner tie rods?

steven88

iTrader: (28)

anybody???

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Usually under the boot the rod is shaped with 6 points so you can grab on it with a wrench and twist. I've ordered an inner for my car as well, but haven't installed it.
Beware - I remember when I ordered it the first time they bought the wrong part #. They had to reorder it because it's suppossed to come with a new clip, IIRC a newlocking piece, new boot, and a few other pieces. The old part # only came with the inner. Book time is about 1.3 hours - So I would guess if your doing it on the floor expect about 1-2 hours to do it.
Looking at a few pictures from alldata it looks like there is some sort of retaining clip that needs to be popped out then maybe the inner unscrews..
I can upload the pics onto cardomain then to this thread if you would like.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Here you go
This is the only good pic of what it looks like I can find the rest is just some good info to have.



Check ball joint, dust cover and other component parts for looseness, wear, damage and grease leakage.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

Hey, thanks for the reply...My inner tie rod kit came with

1. Inner tie rod
2. Dust boot
3. Two clips, one small one you use pliers to tighten, the other its real long and u wrap it around the boot

So I know I have all the parts to do it...basically I was only able to remove the outter tie rod...got stuck after that...there isn't much room to work down there ....I cut the dust boot so I could grab the square piece of the tie rod to loosen it...no go...I couldn't even access the clip from behind to "remove" the dust boot...thats why I cut it....man it's a pain to work down there!

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

so basically your able to grab onto the tie rod with a wrench, but it won't budge?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

You need a special tool to remove the tie rod. Inner tie rod removal tool, look on ebay. Get the one that comes with many inserts(I believe 5).

Search in the 4th gen forum for the howto, it is 90% the same for 5th gens.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

I can't fit a wrench in there...you're talking about that square lookin piece at the end of the inner tie rod?

I took a look at the FSM...does it require removal of the ypipe & engine cross member to do inner tie rod job? Man that blows if it does....

Kevlo - can you provide some links? Thanks

steven88

iTrader: (28)

Kevlo - is this what you're talking about? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LISLE...spagenameZWDVW

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Once you get the balljoint, outer off, etc It should screw right off. (Ours also have some kind of clip, but if it breaks o well because the new one comes with a clip anyways - as long as you don't break whatever the clip honds into)..
How about renting it from autoaone? you get your money back. http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...e_rod_tool.htm

I would have to go outside and look at my inner (the one still in the trunk) to see exactly how it threaded on. Should just be some threads and a way to grab onto it, maybe a lock nut you have to loosen.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

This is what the kit looks like...I got the outter tie rod off...and you see that silver square on the left of the inner tie rod? Theres a threaded part on there that connects to the "rack assembly" according to the FSM...Well, I cut the boot that covers that silver square part...and tried to loosen the threaded portion but it wouldn't budge...I couldn't even get a wrench in there either...how would I remove this part? There is no lock nut behind it either...I can feel it...

I might try that autozone tool....but what good does that tool do anyway? It just looks like a stick if you ask me

TwoToneMax

Get the autozone tool it should come with interchangeable ends (sizes) find the one for your app. Put it in the end then proceed to slide it over the inner tie rod on the car use a ratchet i believe 3/8 could be 1/2 in and loosen the nut once you get it loose you should be able to take off by hand. Just ask the Autozone guy ( he may have a clue) to demonstrate how to slide it over the end. Hope this helps

steven88

iTrader: (28)

so that autozone tool connects to the silver square of the inner tie rod...and breaks it loose?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about the autozone one.

Here's a better pic of pic of a crowsfoot.
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...&page=1&#32802

Hell I've never used one of those tools, but by reading the one on ebay it looks like the crowsfoot in that kit has a special shaped outer enge that allows the long bar to act like a socket. It looks like the bar actually goes over the crowsfoot and turns it like a bolt. You take the crowsfoot and put it over the square shaped part of the inner tie rod and you have torque going from a breaker bar or ratchet onto the tie-rod.

I know it's late now, but tomorrow go out and see if you can feel that square shaped part on your car. If you can go to autozone and rent that tool.
I quick call to make sure that "socket" is a longer length than your inner may be worth while.

EDIT: BTW. That was the original kit they sent me. There are two other parts you are going to need you may want to call and ask why the hell they didn't order them. You may get them for free if you bit*h that you have to wait when they should have known.
Part #'s 48635-AA000 and 48636-AA000. I'd snap a pic of the two items but my son just broke my digital camera. the 636 # is a spacer and 48635 is a plate.

EDIT: No flash but the pic took ok. These are the two items I'm talking about.



This is where they are suppossed to go.

Another edit. I just realized you have a 2k2. May not need the spacer. The part # on the package for my inner is 48521-2y405. If you have the same you may need the spacer, if your part # for your inner is different never mind.
Probably doesn't make a difference, but FYI my part # for my boot is 48203-al525.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

I can: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348507/13

steven88

iTrader: (28)

Wow...thanks Puppet, that gives me a good idea of whats going on...

5thgenmaxima - Hmm...I dont have those items...I'm looking at the FSM right now and I see two items after the inner tie rod...one is called "rack oil seal" and the other "end cover assembly"...are these the items? If so, is it required to get new ones for the installation? When was down there, I could feel the back of the silver square and it felt like nothing was there....like there was no lock nut or anything similiar to the pictures you were showing me...maybe they are inside, or they don't come on the 2k2s?

Well I pretty much gave up...I'm taking it to firestone tomorrow and letting them handle it....I would tackle it myself but it's impossible for me to reach that steering boot (the rear clamp)...and my current boot is ripped apart so I have to replace it....I'm sure if i rented that inner tie rod tool, I could do the install, but I can't get to the boot...so that is why I'm taking it to firestone tomorrow....thanks for the help!

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

The the cardomain link and hte ebay link are correct. The Autozone tool DID NOT WORK FOR ME. It seems only to work for domestics.

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

getting ready to do mine this weekend...we'll see how it turns out.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what the name of the items are or if you really need them in your 2k2. I would call your dealership to make certain, have your vin and part #'s handy.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

hey i just got back from firestone....and everything went smoothly...only problem is, 5thgenmaxima is right...you need that silver plate to lock the inner tie rod into place...so I had to run down to the dealership real quick to pick one up...it's $9 for this small piece of metal

anyway...the only charged me $70 to do the tie rod labor....then I had to pay $9 for the part....so I spent $80 which is not that bad...

steven88

iTrader: (28)

thanks for all the help everyone!

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I'm replacing my entire steering rack

steven88

iTrader: (28)

damn I heard those are a PITA...don't you gotta lift the engine for steering rack work?

what current symptoms are you feeling? I'm affraid that mine will go out....but I'm doing preventitive maintenance like synthetic power steering fluid...hopefully that will squeeze out more miles out of the rack

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I've flushed mobil1 ATF long ago. My steering wheel is VERY loose and I hate it. I want the stiffer feel like the newer cars. Yeah the rack is gonna be a b!tch to install but it SHOULD be worth it, I am replacing the balljoints and control arm bushings at the same time.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

how many miles on the rack?

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

Just did the LCAs, and inner and outer tie rod ends. The steering rack is going to be a PITA, definately! Regarding the inner tie rod ends, you definately need/want the tool from PEP gurls. It was $50 but let me tell you it was WELL worth it...(even though I'm returning it-- ) It made life easier...don't use the autozone tool at ALL. For LCAs have a torch ready and having impact tools makes the job a hundred times easier.

You MAY need the torch for bolts...or what I had to do which was burn out one of the LCA bushings...suspension feels so MUCH better now, I think I'm going to replace the sway bar bushings as well...

good luck to you all.....if you have any questions...I think I ran across every possible problem with this install....feel free to post.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I have about 120k. The shop has air tools and has done a few engine swaps so I believe they will be able to help me.


Nupe. What else is in the way besides the engine crossmember? Is the sway bar in the way of the rack? Also did your ball joint bolts come off easily? The few times I tried to take them off I almost stripped them completely. I tried to seperate the hub from the axle so I could use a socket to remove the balljoint bolt but my breaker bar broke trying to get the axle nut off. Did you use the Energy bushings?

nupe500

iTrader: (13)

I think your rack should be ok if you change the inners and outer tie rods...just my .05 cents

The engine crossmember plus the sway bar are there, but there is just so little space to work in there...thats the issue, now if you were doing a motor swap...easy as pie to get to with motor our.

My ball joint bolts came off with no problems...my impact gun had no issues in getting them off. YOu have to separate the axle from the hub to make it easier...IMO thats the only to do it. I did not use energy bushing...I used the ones that came with the parts...still a major difference. I did have to burn one bushing off...then cut off the metal sleeve...what a pain...but definately a DIYer and the $230 in parts/tools beats the $742 quoted in parts and labor at the local store