some people rub thats about it, Jess does (I think). but thats not really an issue though cause honestly i wouldn't care

 

Nothing a set of washers couldn't fix

 

I guess nobody has any info regarding this? Maybe I should be the first to try em out.

 

ok guys i have encountered a problem with my recent installed h3 Hid Fogs as you guys may know. the problem is that one fog light on the driver side sometimes don't turn on. So today i went back and checked all the wiring and even redid some to make sure they were properly secured by connectors and crimped. Then retraced all the splices if any that maybe lose, but everything was fine and secured. I am thinking it might the Ballast but not sure. Another symptom is that when i turn on my lights at night first, both fogs come on, but when i start the car the fog on the driver side like i mention turns off completely. Anyone have this happened to them when they installed their HID fogs?

 

If I am going to remove the upper intake manifold,what other gasket should I buy,
I know I need the upper intake manifold gasket, but what else?

 

thats all you need

 

FYI, and I know it's sloppy, but I removed my UIM many times, and never chagned the gasket. But it's good practice, so don't listen to me.

 

when i changed my plugs i didnt change it...because i knew i was gonna install the spacers withing a few weeks.

nissan recommends replacing it...and its relatively cheap so might as well.

 

I have habit of replacing gaskets when I take car part. So what stuff do I have to take off to remove the plenum?
What are the specs(Ohms) for the fuel injectors?

 

I took this pic, a few hours ago, So eight or ten bolts holding the plenum to the IM right?
(IM= intake manifold-

 

Also how do I check fuel pressure? any brand you recommend?

 

Removing it is easy. just follow hoses, find bolts, etc.

13.5 – 17.5Ω @ 20*C

 

1st step - clean that dam engine bay man

 

With all these questions that you’re asking, you’d much be better of by getting an FSM.

http://www.vq35de.com/ESM/

 

I'm currently looking at a '00 SE with about 150k miles, car appears to be in decent condition except some rust on the rear wheel wells (is this a common problem), and some pulsing in the brakes. Also the rear appears to have been in a minor accident, spare wheel well is pushed in a bit. Seems to have the leather/moonroof/package. I have a few questions:

1. What's a good price for the car, based on the information above?
2. What are some things to check for when looking at a '00 Maxima? and what are some common problems besides the ignition coils, and MAF sensor, and how to tell if the car have those problems
3. The brakes also felt a little mushy, is this normal? It's my first time driving a Maxima

Thanks for the help!

 

It is not my car, but my brother in-law, Clean with what?
While doing the job I will take pics and, make a how-to on how replace/check injectors,and the valve cover gasket.

 

Gunk foaming degreaser

 

Mushy, does feel spongly? If so, then bleed the brakes

 

Thanks,


Is the EGR on the plenum? How hard is remove, no gasket need there right?

Cleaning this car will be PITA

 

a 3.0 engine bay should look like this

 

How did you get that shiney?

 

1. foaming degreaser
2. wait 15 minutes
3. hose off
4. spray everything with foaming tire cleaner/shine

 

Thank you SoonerFan.
So there sizes are 12mm, 10mm, 8mm
This job is better doing in the garage.

 

So, Mr Nissan, are you ever going to DL the FSM?

 

So which one? the 2000 or the 2000.5?

 

Whichever car you have, but they are nearly identical 00 - 01. While you're at it, get 'em both.

 

is it common to have issues with teh connection to coil packs? my rear coil pack (cylinder 1 coil pack) gets JUST loose enough to where it causes my max to skip, but its still clipped in...

will a new coil pack solve this issue?

 

Check the harness and find the weak / fail point. If the 'nub' is worn out on the coil pack, then yes, a new CP will solve the problem. The the 'hook' on the harness connector is worn, then you need a new connector on the harness side.

 

Hey everyone! New to this forum, I usually troll over on LincolnVsCadillac or JeepForum.

I have a 2000 TJ Wrangler right now with a few basic things on it. Great shape with 80k on it. I posted it on craigslist. I started looking at Maxima SEs and GLEs on there and sure enough 5 minutes later I get an email from a guy who saw my ad and said he has
2002 Nissan Maxima SE, 3.5L V6, 6spd manual trans, new tires, HID's, cloth seats. Only small flaw is a dent in the front left fender, and the check engine light came on a while ago, but I had my mech check it out and he said it needs a throttle body cleaning. He said it was code P0507 which has something to do with relearning IAC settings on a Contura II? He said the front brakes have warped rotors that he'd replace before trading.

He said he'd do an even trade which is fine with me, I like Maximas and the Jeep is annihilating me on gas right now and will only get worse. Two of my friends have 5th generation Maximas and love them.

Should I be real worried about that trouble code? Is it easy to fix? Are there any problems inherent to these cars? I had an 03 Lincoln LS which went through coils and valve cover gaskets about every other month and the Jeep....it's a Jeep.

Thanks guys! Look forward to becoming a Maxima owner.

 

from a visual standpoint it looks perfectly fine. i changed my plugs about a month and a half ago, and probably 2weeks after is when it started skipping, but it only did it when i would start the car up and less than a minute it would stop..

are you suggesting i should take a voltage meter or test light to it to check it?

 

No, I never mentioned a VM. I was solely speaking of mechanical / visual inspection. Is the coil pack securely bolted to the VC?

Are you sure you do not have a bad coil pack?

 

i will recheck to make sure that it is bolted down on my lunch break, but the bad coilpack is what i'm thinking it is, thats why i was asking if i should get a new coilpack or if there was a known issue with the connections on the coilpack. i see one on ebay for about $50 and a friend of mine that works at a nissan dealership can get one for $71.

would u trust ebay with a coilpack?

 

That is a TB high idle code. I wonder if he has tried the IAVL reset? Or has cleaned the TB recently? Ask those 2 questions and see what he tells you.

There is the ever on going oil burning issue with VQ35's. Some do, and some don't. 2 ways to find out, ask him and see if he's honest he'll tell you, and maybe before that, pop the hood and check for yourself. (dipstick)

There are also random issues like MAF sensors / hesitation TSB's / ECU dealer reflashes, etc. Spend some time on here and do some major research if you're really interested.

FWIW: My car has been trouble free since I got it 10/04, 39.7k, which now has 101.2k.

 

i'm not too familiar with the codes..but i'd say go for it..just do some research on that code on the forums first.

 

I thought that you actually found that the connection was loose? If that is the case, make sure the connectors are properly engaging and that they're not damaged which would then lead them to become disconnected.

Quick / easy way to check is switch coils w/ another cylinder and see if the same thing occurs at the same coil etc.

 

He said his mechanic said the code was thrown because it needs a throttle body cleaning. I have a code reader so if that is the only code thrown, I should be fine right? That code is an easy fix?

 

The code is an easy fix, and IMO, it is NOT because it needs a cleaning, though I could be wrong, and it could be horrendously dirty but I do not think that is the case.

There are also many horror stories which I'll try not to scare you with regarding that code. Typically, it's an easy fix. I've cleaned my TB 2x and have d/c'd my TB 3x and have yet to have a permanent problem with that code / high idle, etc.

 

well we ran the code..i had four codes (3 pertaining to o2 sensor) one talking about misfiring in cylinder one...basically we loosened cylinder one, started the car, of course it skipped, then replugged it..and no problems, then it did the same thing when i got off work, less than a minute and it stopped itself. happened later that night, stopped at a car wash wiggled the plug and it stopped. ill check to see if its bolted down securely, if not ill switch the packs today after i get off work. and see what it does.

but like i said, visually the connecters look fine, i see no visible damage or loose wires that would indicate that it SHOULD be the connecters

 

Depends on where you live. I'm in NM and my 4th gen (Model yr 95) has no rust whatsoever.


Bad rotors, common problem when Nissan decided to put Civic size brakes on these things.

Pics? Carfax?

That's always nice.


Without visually seeing it, I trust that you're judgment is good enough, if you need a little help, check www.nada.com & www.kbb.com.



Drive ability tells a long story, couple that w/ SES lights / codes, and you should be able to find a problem. None other than you specified are 'common', but that can be subjective. take a look at the TSB thread in the stickys.


If they're pulsating, then that means they haven't serviced them in a while 9maybe) and therefore then that also means it might need a brake bleeding.

 

My $$ will be on the coil pack.

Switch the coil pack in question to another cylinder for a week and see if the code travels to the cylinder which you transfered to.