01Maxxxxx

When I'm listening to music in my Max at random times the radio will switch over to tape or cd without me touching anything. Its not that big of a deal I just press back to whatever I was on but I'm afraid something with my wiring is messed up. If anyones had this or knows whats wrong let me know thanks!
-01Maxxxxx

kendad

Hi Ben have you had any luck yet? I am experiencing a very similar problem after taking my 01 Maxima to the shop for an idle problem(felt like it wanted to die when stopped but never died). They did an autothrottle body clean on it and said it was very gunked up. My car has 165k on it. About 3 days after the service engine light came on so I brought it back. It had the P0505 code. They checked it and said the Idler control valve was bad so they replaced it. They said they had a hard time relearning it but after 2 times the SES light went out. After 2 days the light came back on and at around 1500 rpms the car will hesitate and lunge. If you have it in park and press the gas, right at 1500 rpms the car will hesitate almost like it is being choked off from air or fuel. It seems fine above the 1500 rpms. When I drove it it was pretty scary you give it some gas and the rpms increase from 1500 to 2500 but the car doesn't respond no acceleration. So after reading all of the MAF problems I decided with 165k this may fix my problem. Went to nissan and for 111.00 I replaced the MAF and a new air filter. I did a relearn with new MAF but still had the problem. On the instructions for the new MAF it had a warning to get the ECU reprogrammed after installing it. I went to Nissan and had them reprogram the ECU. They did and it still has the same problem. I brought the car back to the original mechanic and he said it must have been a bad Idle cotrol valve so he put in another one. Same exact problem. He then changed athe ATS today and readjusted. The SES light is now out but I can still duplicate the surging/lunging at 1500 rpms and it still hesitates on the road. Let me know how you fair on your problem. Also if anyone has any other help please help.
Thanks, Ken

jayogolmic

Hey, guys, i kinda have an urgent problem. today's V-day, and my car wouldnt start this morning, i dont really want this to ruin my plans. the symptoms: CEL was on a bout 3 weeks ago, the same cam position sensor issue, but it disappeared. Then it was the ABS light, which turned on and off occasionally. the problem, last night i did not leave any light on when i got home, and this morning, when i clutched in neutral, turned the key, nothing happened, not even the ticking sound. So im guessing that it's probably not the starter, but could it be the battery? Also, when i turn the key to the on position, i could only hear the ABS pump making a buzzing noise.

btw: i bought a used 2002 SE 6Spd, 102xxxx miles, carfax showed no prior accidents.

any inputs and advices will be much appreciated, thanks.

fflint_18

If the engine isn't turning at all my bet is that it's the clutch switch.

Make sure the clutch is fully depressed. If the switch isn't closing the car won't turn over.

ddh052286

I cant make a new thread in any of the forum parts. Anyhow I'm having issues with my clutch in my 00 Maxima GXE. I've posted on one forum but it's dead and don't get much help... Heres what I've write

Me:
"Ok everyone. As usual Im new. Anyhow I purchased a 00 Nissan Maxima 2 weeks ago... This cars seemed great when I test drove it and until about 7 days later the clutch started to slip. I took it back and they said slave cylinder etc was good, so they think its the clutch so they go to replace it, but the clutch thats in it is brand new. So Im guessing it wasnt engaging all the way. Anyhow they had it for a week and replaced the clutch kit anyways. Well I got it back thursday and it seemed fine except that the clutch would catch about 1/4 or 1/2 inch away from the floor. Yesterday I went to lunch on break and the pedal got stuck to the floor and wouldnt retract. The fluid was empty. I called the dealership mechanic and he came out and bleed the system and had me drive it to the shop. He said the slave cylinder went out. Replaced it seemed fine. I get halfway home and the pedal started to stick a little bit again but not bad. It was leaking fluid again but from the slave cylinder. I checked the bleeder screw and it was loose. Anyhow whe he bleed it.. he did it like 4-5 times and the clutch caught as soon as i started to let off the pedal, is this right? I rebleed the system myself about 15 times until the fluid would squirt out and it wasnt foam looking anymore. The clutch would grab about 2-3 inches from the floor and now today its grabbing about 4-5 inches away but the fluid level is still full. Should I bleed it some more? I read on the forum somewhere about using a seringe or whatever and there are two spots to bleed it at. Wheres the other bleeding screw and this seringe deal? Help is much appreciated, thanks"

Ok this is the only reply I got.

Them:
"if the tech didn't remember to tighten the bleed screw, he sure as heck did not do the free-play adjustment. Once you're sure the hydraulics are air-free and not leaking, then the pedal free-play may be waay off. Make sure they tightened the lock nut!"


now this is what I posted about an hour ago


Me:
"Actually I think this mechanic is a full of **** and dont know what he is doing. Now today, later on... the pedal height was getting higher higher and higher. There was almost about 1-2 inches left of the pedal when the clutch engaged. Which this is what it did in the first place to begin with. It also started to slip, in all gears. So I luckly I was near by the dealership and I stopped by and he was there. I told him about it and he asks if I am holding the clutch down just a little at all since it would cause it not to be fully engaged and make the clutch hot and slip. I told him no but he seemed to not believed it was sliping. So he went to drive it and didn't even make it out of the parking lot, came back and said yeah this isn't right. Anyhow... on the slave cylinder theres this metal/copper looking type rod deal that goes into the rubber boot on the slave cylinder maybe 3-4 inches long that presses against the clutch arm thing that goes into the tranny. Im not sure what this is called but hopefully you all will know. Anyhow he had me push the clutch in and out, put it in gear and let it out then neutral. He said that it wasn't fully engaging and that rod type deal in the slave cylinder was too long and wouldn't let it engage all the way which made the clutch hot and start slipping. So he cut maybe a inch off that rod thing and put it back in and the clutch started to pull about 2 inches from the floor now... Since then I have drove the hell out of it trying to make it slip (without dumping the clutch) like doing 30mph and put it in 5th gear and floored it.... and would't slip... I tacked it to 6 1/2 through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I couldn't to get it to slip. It seems as it fixed the problem but yet this way doesn't seem legit. I think it's just a quick fix rig and I want it done the right way. Any suggestions as to what to look for or at?
Heres the new parts that hes put on it... new slave cylinder, new clutch, pressure plat and throw-out bearing and new clutch line. He said if theres problems with it still that the only thing he can think of is the master cylinder but he said it looked brand new. Please help anyone because I put $3,300 down on this car and owe $3,000 more and $600 for labor and parts and I can't get my money back or anything"


Please help, thanks

qstick777

iTrader: (6)

2002 GXE - non-Bose system. Thanks to the blown front speaker I've finally grown tired of the stock system. Plus I have several burnt bulbs in my A/C controls, so if I'm going to tear into the dash, I might as well do it all at once.

I'm no audiophile, but I spend 1 1/2-2 hours a day in my car, so I need to have something decent.

Here are my questions:

1) headunit - what will fit? single or double din? I've seen both, but most on-line sites say that a double din will not fit. What type of adapter or kit will I need. I need it to pretty much in and out. I won't have time (or ability) to do a lot of customizing, so if a double-din will fit but require special stuff, I just need to know.

2) tweeters - Does the GXE have them? The pillars look like they have them, but I can't tell if there is anything in there. Either way I'll be putting them in - just wondering if I'll have to run new wires. Also, are they the standard size?

3) front speakers - what size? 6.5"? Should I go with 2-way, 3-way, 4-way, or components (with tweeters)?

4) rear speakers - what size? 5.25 or 6.5"? Again, 2, 3, or 4-way?

5) adding a sub - I don't need a lot of BOOM, but I need something. I was thinking about maybe a small powered box or tube - probably 6.5 or 8". Space is a major concern, so I need something compact. I don't have anything against cutting the rear deck to add a free air sub if that is the best option.

6) rear fill - pros and cons? I don't notice much sound from the rear door speakers - it's actually my first car that didn't have speakers in the rear deck, so maybe I'm just not used to the sound.

Sorry if the questions are stupid, but I've learned that I can't trust the info from the on-line sites or the books in the stores. I really hate buying stuff and finding out they don't fit right!

Thanks for any advice!

ddh052286

Ok everyone. As usual Im new. Anyhow I purchased a 00 Nissan Maxima 2 weeks ago... This cars seemed great when I test drove it and until about 7 days later the clutch started to slip. I took it back and they said slave cylinder etc was good, so they think its the clutch so they go to replace it, but the clutch thats in it is brand new. So Im guessing it wasnt engaging all the way. Anyhow they had it for a week and replaced the clutch kit anyways. Well I got it back thursday and it seemed fine except that the clutch would catch about 1/4 or 1/2 inch away from the floor. Yesterday I went to lunch on break and the pedal got stuck to the floor and wouldnt retract. The fluid was empty. I called the dealership mechanic and he came out and bleed the system and had me drive it to the shop. He said the slave cylinder went out. Replaced it seemed fine. I get halfway home and the pedal started to stick a little bit again but not bad. It was leaking fluid again but from the slave cylinder. I checked the bleeder screw and it was loose. Anyhow whe he bleed it.. he did it like 4-5 times and the clutch caught as soon as i started to let off the pedal, is this right? I rebleed the system myself about 15 times until the fluid would squirt out and it wasnt foam looking anymore. The clutch would grab about 2-3 inches from the floor and now today its grabbing about 4-5 inches away but the fluid level is still full. Should I bleed it some more? I read on the forum somewhere about using a seringe or whatever and there are two spots to bleed it at. Wheres the other bleeding screw and this seringe deal? Help is much appreciated, thanks

This was posted earlier now his a different story

Actually I think this mechanic is a full of it and dont know what he is doing. Now today, later on... the pedal height was getting higher higher and higher. There was almost about 1-2 inches left of the pedal when the clutch engaged. Which this is what it did in the first place to begin with. It also started to slip, in all gears. So I luckly I was near by the dealership and I stopped by and he was there. I told him about it and he asks if I am holding the clutch down just a little at all since it would cause it not to be fully engaged and make the clutch hot and slip. I told him no but he seemed to not believed it was sliping. So he went to drive it and didn't even make it out of the parking lot, came back and said yeah this isn't right. Anyhow... on the slave cylinder theres this metal/copper looking type rod deal that goes into the rubber boot on the slave cylinder maybe 3-4 inches long that presses against the clutch arm thing that goes into the tranny. Im not sure what this is called but hopefully you all will know. Anyhow he had me push the clutch in and out, put it in gear and let it out then neutral. He said that it wasn't fully engaging and that rod type deal in the slave cylinder was too long and wouldn't let it engage all the way which made the clutch hot and start slipping. So he cut maybe a inch off that rod thing and put it back in and the clutch started to pull about 2 inches from the floor now... Since then I have drove the hell out of it trying to make it slip (without dumping the clutch) like doing 30mph and put it in 5th gear and floored it.... and would't slip... I tacked it to 6 1/2 through 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I couldn't to get it to slip. It seems as it fixed the problem but yet this way doesn't seem legit. I think it's just a quick fix rig and I want it done the right way. Any suggestions as to what to look for or at? Heres the new parts that hes put on it... new slave cylinder, new clutch, pressure plat and throw-out bearing and new clutch line. He said if theres problems with it still that the only thing he can think of is the master cylinder but he said it looked brand new. Please help anyone because I put $3,300 down on this car and owe $3,000 more and $600 for labor and parts and I can't get my money back or anything

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

Seems like the mechanic did everything he could to fix all of your problems and you're just trying to be an idiot and break the new stuff. Why would you do that? I understand that you might not understand everything the mechanic did but it seems that whatever did fixed the problem, so what gives? OK, so you owe him $600 for labor and parts, you want him to replace more stuff and owe him more? By the way, did he charge you for the quick fix? how much?

Maybe i'm missing something but it sounds like you're just pissed off that in the end, it was just a simple fix.

ddh052286

This is a dealership right? Ok they hire a mechanic. This push rod in the slave cylinder comes WITH it, brand new. As long as the old one. Right? So in reality how could this be too long, when the old one is as long as the new one and I've check 5 other slave cylinders at my work and the rod was just as long? Theres some adjustment that he didn't do that needs to be done but I don't know what. I bet everyone else didn't cut their push rod in the slave cylinder, right? Yeah

ddh052286

Oh, and then when the clutch resivore is empty and he fills it up and bleed the system like 5 times? Obviously he doesn't know what hes doing

ddh052286

Well eveyone. Today I was out and the clutch fluid leaked again. Poured out. empty. From the slave cylinder. POS in my terms. Im just going to ave them get me a diferent car. Nissan's.... lol... pathetic Honda FTMFW

ekoster

I am replacing the clutch on my '03. I noticed when putting the flywheel back on that there is some movement back and forth in the flywheel before tightening the bolts. I guess that the dowel pin in the crankshaft that locates the flywheel has some slop, or the locater in the flywheel face has opened up a little? Anyway my question is, do I need to worry about making sure that the flywheel is lined up PERFECTLY with the crank? I am afraid that if the flywheel is a little bit one way or another, it's going to throw the crank position sensor off. It might only make a couple of degrees of difference both ways, but I don't want to have to tear this thing apart again because there's a problem with the flywheel. I hope this is making sense...

Thanks

Eric

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

What setup gives the most comfortable ride?
my current 01 SE stock system is really crap and it sounds like they're all gone already (@ 62K miles). I feel every frkin pebble i run over and the ride feels quite uncomfortable under normal driving conditions.

I was thinking of getting tokico HP struts all around and keeping the OEM springs (as per my budget)....is this a good setup? I dont care for sharp turns or "tightness". I just want a comfy ride...

Prsist

I'm looking into buying 5th gen this fall. The car would prob. have 60000-110000 miles and want to know are there any known issues I should be aware of?

ddh052286

MAF sensor and the coils go bad

ddh052286

To you, the one being an ***. As I said, cutting this rod in the slave cylinder isn't right. So it messed up again and the owner let his main mechanic look at it. He said this rod shouldn't have been cut and was too short and making the piston in the slave cylinder come out too much and made it leak out. So obviously this wasnt a fix and tell me, why shouldn't i be pissed off about that? hmmm

code_14

Hi
i need help with the hid harness wires.
can u guys please tell me what A or B or C are. I don't know which one is High Beam and which one is low beam and which one is ground.
ITs a hi/low 9003 bulb
thank you

Cyote

iTrader: (3)

OK have a question....

Well my friend wrecked his 2002 maxima Auto.
airbags deployed and the passengers side light was crushed so that area is smashed.
the engine is still holding fluids and looks ok
i go into the car and try to start it but it just keeps turning and dosent start.
do i have to disable the srs system or something????

afrofranzy

Hello everyone, I have a quick question regarding the SES, SLIP - TCS off issue. I have a 2000 SE, If I go to the dealership, will they fix this for free even though the recall says 2002-2003 maximas.....

VQP0WER

Nice try....your vehicle is almost 10 years old.......

Spinnaker

Hi there,

I have an '03 GLE and I my rear O2 sensor is shot (I had the engine code read a little while ago) but I was told at the time that it isn't critical since the rear O2 sensor doesn't affect gas mileage in Maximas.

Lately I've noticed that my gas mileage has gone down by quite a bit. Could this be the rear O2 sensor? Or what else could it be? I'm told that replacing a rear O2 sensor runs like $600, so I'd like to hold off if I can, but if it's affecting this then I'll get it replaced.

Thanks in advance.

maxdriver10

Dont buy an alpine headunit, they are a pain in the A** to work on...i would say pioneer heedunit and maybe some boston acoustic pros for seperate fronts and something like a low level kenwood or pioneer in the back (you dont sit in the back so quality isnt as big a deal). Buy an amp to run your door speakers. Also look into subs, I have two 12" Kenwoods sitting in my trunk and of course you'll need an amp just to power the sub too (if you have alot of money I suggest Alpine Type R's...lots of travel and are durable...very expensive). and speaking of expensive be prepared to spend anywhere from $1500-$5000 depending on how much stuff you want to put in yourself and what quality you want....if you check my sig you can see I have alot from kenwood, theyre a good company and relatively inexpensive and durable...not the greatest but they get the job done and are far better than my stock bose system i had in. hope this helps but remember its your car, you decide what you want

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

Call Dave B up at Southpoint Nissan in Texas and I'm pretty sure you can get a whole brand new set of 4 for less than that. If you're a DIY-er, you can rent the right tools for free at your local Autozone or Kragen or something and change them yourself. And I dont think your o2 would mess up your mpg since you've been driving with bad o2 for a while already.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

how hard is it to change the trunk/gas release switch on an 01? My gas door release switch works fine but the trunk release latch is broken and im not sure whats cooking behind the door panel..... whats the worst case senario and whats the best case senario when it comes to broken trunk release latches?
Also, would the switch from 00-03 fit my 01?

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

my srs light came on last night and ive done the ignition trick to find the code and
i've exhausted the search engine looking for what the # of flashes means.
my airbag light flashes :
1 long
off
then 6 quick
so i must assume its a code "6"?
any ideas?

jeisai

Maybe go to Autozone and get it read for free?

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

im in Canada, no autozone, and our equal does not do any such thing.
thanks for the reply anyhow

maxima_racing152

ok i have a question i got a 97 max gle with 226k i keep hearing a squeaky noise in the front of my car ive replaced shocks struts brakes rotors calipers and still cant figure it out any sugggestions?

jeisai

Ouch, fair enough. Sorry, man.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

did u get the CV joints checked out? Look for any grease leak.....thats the only thing i can think of atm..

maxdriver10

Front: I would go with 6.5" with tweeters but make sure they are components w/tweeters of course.

Rear: I would also go with 6.5" and have them be 4-ways, once again get something with a tweeter.

For both the front and rear speakers youre going to need some self tapping metal screws because the speakers that are stock (even the bose ones) are 5.25" I believe so the holes will not be in the correct place for a 6.5" speaker

Subs: Cutting through the rear deck is not my idea of the best way to add a sub, I'd go with two tens in a custom box in the trunk to maxamize trunk space available to you.

dcnded

iTrader: (2)

so i assume that the dealership consult II is the only way to see what component of the system is actually tripping the light. The FSM tells youhow to get the code and through searching on this site different ways to "clear " the light. however i cant find any info on what the sequence of light flashes means, as in what component they correspond to.
sorry to bother just trying to not go to the dealership. however the light coming on did come on shortly after a good horn mashing!!! and through my searches here it seems that a "clockspring" may be the culprit. any one have any more info that what is available here currently?
thanks for anyones time

Teaner

iTrader: (191)

i have a 2003 maxima without a spoiler. the third brake light bulb (inside the car on the rear deck) has burnt out. cant find the bulb size chart in the stickies or information pertaining to replacing this bulb.

my questions are what bulb size is the third brake light? As well as, does the entire rear deck have to be removed to change the bulb?

Nelsito65

You don't have to remove the rear deck to replace the bulb. I don't have the owner's manual in front of me at the time but all the information is there, if you have one. To remove it, I think you push the housing towards the rear and then lift the rear of the housing itself. Most autopart stores are able to find out the size for you if you need to.

ajth87

Hey everyone,
Well this is my first post on the forum and I just want to get a few words of wisdom from some experienced maxima owners. Well first off, I soon plan to purchase a 2000-2003 maxima, targeting 2002 due to the 3.5!! Well my real issue is my indecisiveness when it comes to the auto or manual transmission. Yes I know that everyone is going to suggest the manual due to the performance advantange but I also want some input of the auto's. I live in a city whereas I am constantly in stop and go traffic and there are an immense amout of hills which at times makes it more work to drive a manual and that is why i have been in auto's currently. If I were to buy and 02 max with an auto trans., are there any good performance mod's that I can add to get good performance times? are there any mods for the manual that i cant get for the auto? One last thing, does anyone have official numbers for the performance times on both auto and manual for the 02 max with them being stock? Thanks for any feedback.

AJ

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

If it is on for 7 seconds and then alternates six times off for 2 seconds then on for 3 seconds then system is has no malfunction and needs to be reset. The amount of time the light is on and off and the pattern in which it it does this determines the issue.

maxximaa

iTrader: (10)

Car: 2002 Auto Max

got up this morning, warm up the car, reversed out of the parking lot.

put the shifter in D, stepped on the gas up to 1500RPM to get going.

Ok, that's weird, mabye it's slippery, so TCS OFF, tried again, same thing!!

Seemed like it got stuck in 2nd or 3rd

I didnt feel any shifting what so ever all the way to work. It was like driving a scooter!!

Parked the car at work, came back 2 hours later, started the car, drove home and it was normal again! WTF?

Any idea?

ATF is pink and extremely hard to read the level, for sure it's not low or anything.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Anything that fits the manual fits the auto, with respect to engine modification.

netstorm64

Hi, I have a question..... (2000 maxima 130k miles)
My cars steering wheel felt loose and my brakes were bad so i went in and took it to a tech. The tech checked up everything on the car. The front passenger side axle was damaged and the related ball joint. Also my front driver side tire had an oblong shape when rotating. The work listed below was done..

-Right hand front axle and lower ball joint was replaced.
-Changed rotors/pads/calipers on rear brakes.

I didn't ask the tech to replace the tire....during the work he moved the oblong tire which was in the front driver side of my car to the rear driver side of my car.

Now when i drive at speeds > 55 mph my steering gives off an annoying vibration and when i am driving straight and let go of the steering wheel, my car begins steer left....
I will replace the tire soon.
Do you guys have any suggestions of what else could cause this problem?
Thanks in advance.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Tire, period.