5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
07-23-2008, 06:00 PM
#6521
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Added: After looking through the ECM (EC-433), it possibly could be your power steering air control valve as well. I don't have the room to type in all the wire continuity procedures here, so can you get your hands on a ESM?
Last edited by VQP0WER; 07-23-2008 at 06:17 PM.
07-23-2008, 06:31 PM
#6522
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 10
The ECU controls the valve, so if the ECU is fried, it will not operate the valve....I'll have to try and pull up the schematic, but pretty sure it's gonna be your ECU.
Added: After looking through the ECM (EC-433), it possibly could be your power steering air control valve as well. I don't have the room to type in all the wire continuity procedures here, so can you get your hands on a ESM?
Added: After looking through the ECM (EC-433), it possibly could be your power steering air control valve as well. I don't have the room to type in all the wire continuity procedures here, so can you get your hands on a ESM?
I also just purchased a used IACV for $45 as insurance.
I feel like the wire continuity procedure might be a little out of my league. Thanks again for all the help.
EDIT: Just found an online copy of the ESM. Link for others with similar issues: link
I see the mention of the power steering air control valve and I am reviewing the troubleshooting procedure.
Last edited by awolfinwater; 07-23-2008 at 06:40 PM.
07-24-2008, 10:32 AM
#6526
Hey guys. My radiator is leaking and I want to change it myself but not sure exact how to. I tried searching and found some info on how to change the radiator for 4th gen and seemed somewhat easy. Can anyone give me a little write up on changing radiator for 5th gen perhaps? Seems like its only hoses and bolts. Also, do I drain the coolant in the radiator via bolts at the bottom? Thanks.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.
Last edited by IHAVEA2KMAXIMA; 07-24-2008 at 10:51 AM.
07-24-2008, 01:10 PM
#6529
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 126
Hey, so I just kinda got burned in another thread for adding something to an old post. Are there etiquette rules that look down on this kind of thing? I was just trying to add my 2 cents to the discussion, even though the last post before mine was in March.
07-24-2008, 02:39 PM
#6531
Hey guys. My radiator is leaking and I want to change it myself but not sure exact how to. I tried searching and found some info on how to change the radiator for 4th gen and seemed somewhat easy. Can anyone give me a little write up on changing radiator for 5th gen perhaps? Seems like its only hoses and bolts. Also, do I drain the coolant in the radiator via bolts at the bottom? Thanks.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.
Pretty easy to R&R, remove the splash guard undernearth and drain the radiator. Disconnect top and bottom radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines, the brackets at the top that hold the radiator in place and disconnect the fan wiring harnesses. Make sure everything is disconnected and gently lift the old radiator (with fans connected) out of the engine bay. Remove the fans from the old radiator, bolt onto the new radiator and put everything back together and refill the cooling system, preferrably with new coolant. Make sure you warm the engine enough to open the thermostat, then turn off, let cool and check the coolant level. You may have to do this a couple times to get all the air out of the system.
07-24-2008, 03:10 PM
#6532
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 35
ok obvously im new here lol.
why cant i start a thread? i have some technical questions and i want to post up some pics of my car (you know you want to see a VQ30 swapped rx7
) so will someone explain to me why my accound hasnt been approved yet? thanks a ton.
-RR
why cant i start a thread? i have some technical questions and i want to post up some pics of my car (you know you want to see a VQ30 swapped rx7
) so will someone explain to me why my accound hasnt been approved yet? thanks a ton.-RR
07-24-2008, 04:26 PM
#6533
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
There are however, a All Motor section, along with a Post Your Picture here type threads. In the mean time, you can ask your questions here, that is the point of this thread.
07-24-2008, 09:11 PM
#6535
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Cali
Posts: 63
So my newbie question is:
I think my tranny may be going out. I noticed it's starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd or when i come to a close stop (making a turn or going over a speed bump kinda thing) and put some gas into it, then it revs up and then pops into gear.
I did a drain and fill of the fluid. It was really dark brown almost black when I drained it. filled it wit 4 quarts like the Nissan tech said and checked the level every now and then but same thing.
What are my options or what can it be??
Please help guys....
Thanks much iin advance!!!
I think my tranny may be going out. I noticed it's starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd or when i come to a close stop (making a turn or going over a speed bump kinda thing) and put some gas into it, then it revs up and then pops into gear.
I did a drain and fill of the fluid. It was really dark brown almost black when I drained it. filled it wit 4 quarts like the Nissan tech said and checked the level every now and then but same thing.
What are my options or what can it be??
Please help guys....
Thanks much iin advance!!!
07-24-2008, 10:14 PM
#6538
I remember seeing that car for sale and a youtube vid of it almost half a year ago. Post it up when you can!
07-24-2008, 10:39 PM
#6539
07-25-2008, 04:08 AM
#6540
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 35
heres my issue:
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
07-25-2008, 05:19 PM
#6541
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 75
Hello there - it seems that I am experiencing some problem with loosening the spindle nut for my passenger side 02 max. Anyone got any tips or idea to get it off?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?
07-25-2008, 05:37 PM
#6542
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Hello there - it seems that I am experiencing some problem with loosening the spindle nut for my passenger side 02 max. Anyone got any tips or idea to get it off?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?
07-25-2008, 05:53 PM
#6543
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 15
Why do new members have to do 15 responses before we can start a new thread? Some newby asked this same question and the answer given him was to go to an address within this forum. When I tried to go th this address ... this forum said something about not being able to go to old threads, older than 2006-2007?
07-25-2008, 06:15 PM
#6544
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 75
In theory, since that I used the breaker bar to tighten, then that same breaker bar should be able to be used to loosen it. Unfortunately, I don't have a larger pipe to cheat even further. The nut seems to turn a little in the tightening rotation and tough on the loosening rotation. It's really annoying - I didn't run into this type problem on my toyota. One thing I did notice from tighten the spindle nut is that the wheel no longer seems loose and less front-end noise. It makes me think that the bearing might not be in such a bad shape after all. By the way, I have 107k on mine so it almost seems like the time to replace my wheel bearing based on the many posts I've read here
07-25-2008, 06:22 PM
#6545
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 75
Thanks Scottwax.
Yes - tried to recently reset CEL for loose gas cap. It still came back on immediately since I forgot to tighten it. Anyway, CEL was gone was once gas cap is tighten. This happens a few thousand miles ago. I've definitely driven the car more than 50-60 miles of various patterns and may not necessarily reflect the driving pattern instructed of Owner's Manual to get the car ready. But with the amount of miles already driven, the car should in theory be ready.
Not sure what you mean to check pending code - not exactly familar with that. I do have an Actron Scantool to check for codes, which I think my local mechanic has similar one - is there a special feature built into the scan tool to check for pending codes?
Anyway, I searched previous thread and found another owner had the same problem as me and it was later determined that one of the rear O2 Sensors when bad even CEL is not on. That owner replaced the sensor, then the catalyst and o2 monitor was shown to be ready to finally pass inspection. I am considering to replace both rear 02 sensors just to give it a shot to see it fixes the problem. If I take it to the dealer, they will more than likely charge me the cost of 2 o2 sensors anyway just to "try" to diagnose the problem or possibly connect it to Consult. What do you think? And thanks for your help.
Yes - tried to recently reset CEL for loose gas cap. It still came back on immediately since I forgot to tighten it. Anyway, CEL was gone was once gas cap is tighten. This happens a few thousand miles ago. I've definitely driven the car more than 50-60 miles of various patterns and may not necessarily reflect the driving pattern instructed of Owner's Manual to get the car ready. But with the amount of miles already driven, the car should in theory be ready.
Not sure what you mean to check pending code - not exactly familar with that. I do have an Actron Scantool to check for codes, which I think my local mechanic has similar one - is there a special feature built into the scan tool to check for pending codes?
Anyway, I searched previous thread and found another owner had the same problem as me and it was later determined that one of the rear O2 Sensors when bad even CEL is not on. That owner replaced the sensor, then the catalyst and o2 monitor was shown to be ready to finally pass inspection. I am considering to replace both rear 02 sensors just to give it a shot to see it fixes the problem. If I take it to the dealer, they will more than likely charge me the cost of 2 o2 sensors anyway just to "try" to diagnose the problem or possibly connect it to Consult. What do you think? And thanks for your help.
href="http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/broch/c114.pdf"
Oh yeah, I will try to go to the inspection station and find out whether they would pass my car or not.
Last edited by Skorp1on; 07-25-2008 at 06:25 PM.
07-25-2008, 06:51 PM
#6546
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
I did not torque it to spec - just tighten it hard as I possibly can by hand/non-extended breaker bar.
In theory, since that I used the breaker bar to tighten, then that same breaker bar should be able to be used to loosen it. Unfortunately, I don't have a larger pipe to cheat even further. The nut seems to turn a little in the tightening rotation and tough on the loosening rotation. It's really annoying - I didn't run into this type problem on my toyota. One thing I did notice from tighten the spindle nut is that the wheel no longer seems loose and less front-end noise. It makes me think that the bearing might not be in such a bad shape after all. By the way, I have 107k on mine so it almost seems like the time to replace my wheel bearing based on the many posts I've read here
In theory, since that I used the breaker bar to tighten, then that same breaker bar should be able to be used to loosen it. Unfortunately, I don't have a larger pipe to cheat even further. The nut seems to turn a little in the tightening rotation and tough on the loosening rotation. It's really annoying - I didn't run into this type problem on my toyota. One thing I did notice from tighten the spindle nut is that the wheel no longer seems loose and less front-end noise. It makes me think that the bearing might not be in such a bad shape after all. By the way, I have 107k on mine so it almost seems like the time to replace my wheel bearing based on the many posts I've read here
07-26-2008, 09:02 AM
#6548
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 35
heres my issue:
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
07-26-2008, 09:17 AM
#6549
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
heres my issue:
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
07-26-2008, 11:07 AM
#6550
So my newbie question is:
I think my tranny may be going out. I noticed it's starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd or when i come to a close stop (making a turn or going over a speed bump kinda thing) and put some gas into it, then it revs up and then pops into gear.
I did a drain and fill of the fluid. It was really dark brown almost black when I drained it. filled it wit 4 quarts like the Nissan tech said and checked the level every now and then but same thing.
What are my options or what can it be??
Please help guys....
Thanks much iin advance!!!
I think my tranny may be going out. I noticed it's starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd or when i come to a close stop (making a turn or going over a speed bump kinda thing) and put some gas into it, then it revs up and then pops into gear.
I did a drain and fill of the fluid. It was really dark brown almost black when I drained it. filled it wit 4 quarts like the Nissan tech said and checked the level every now and then but same thing.
What are my options or what can it be??
Please help guys....
Thanks much iin advance!!!
Given the condition of the fluid that came out during the drain I recommend you do a full tranny flush to eliminate any and all contaminants. I would do another drain and actually drop the pan this time to clean out the magnets. If you take it to a shop to have them flush it you can ask them to drop the pan and clean the magnets. An easy way to tell if they actually did that is if there are new bolts on the tranny pan. You have to install new 10MM bolts when you drop the pan because of the thread locker on the bolts.
If you still experience slipping issues after that check for the TCM (transmission control module) TSB (technical service bulletin). This should take care of your slipping issue.
07-26-2008, 11:10 AM
#6551
heres my issue:
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.
the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).
4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.
while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.
so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....
but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.
07-26-2008, 11:15 AM
#6552
Yikes....you may be SOL. It sounds like you cross-threaded it. When you put it on were you able to thread it on by hand easily? Were the threads intact? not chaffed or worn down? If you had to use a wrench to put it back on then most likely you cross-threaded the nut.
I would get a pipe and a longer breaker bar along with just PB blaster. Spray the PB blaster on the nut, let it sit about 10 minutes then grab a friend and go to town on it. Hopefully you can get it off even if it's cross-threaded. The only bummer is that might need a new axle if it's cross-thread.
07-26-2008, 11:22 AM
#6553
Why do new members have to do 15 responses before we can start a new thread? Some newby asked this same question and the answer given him was to go to an address within this forum. When I tried to go th this address ... this forum said something about not being able to go to old threads, older than 2006-2007?
The 15 response rule helps to eliminate spammers. People that just come on here to post about a product or service and that is it.
The older threads sometimes do not work because of an upgrade and rebuild that happened a couple years ago. There is a link to fix that. I think you can find that under the announcements section of the forum.
@ a couple years ago. And no, that link does not work for direct post links, mmk?
07-27-2008, 08:36 AM
#6555
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Anoka, MN
Posts: 1
Hello all. I'm new to this site, so bear with me. I have a 2000 SE with automatic, and for several months now there has been an intermittent squeak coming from the car. You hear it around idle speed, when taking off from a stop and when coming to a stop. It's short usually just 1 or 2 short squeaks. After crawing around, under the hood and under the car I have only been able to determine that it's coming from the passenger side of the car, towards the back of the engine. If I put the car into neutral and rev the engine you will hear it just before the engine drops back to idle speed. The noise is much louder when your under the car as opposed to looking under the hood. The car also has an occasional hard start. So I'm wondering if its possibly the starter. Sorry if I was a little long winded on the description.
thanks much.
thanks much.
07-27-2008, 09:06 AM
#6556
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 75
Yikes....you may be SOL. It sounds like you cross-threaded it. When you put it on were you able to thread it on by hand easily? Were the threads intact? not chaffed or worn down? If you had to use a wrench to put it back on then most likely you cross-threaded the nut.
I would get a pipe and a longer breaker bar along with just PB blaster. Spray the PB blaster on the nut, let it sit about 10 minutes then grab a friend and go to town on it. Hopefully you can get it off even if it's cross-threaded. The only bummer is that might need a new axle if it's cross-thread.
I would get a pipe and a longer breaker bar along with just PB blaster. Spray the PB blaster on the nut, let it sit about 10 minutes then grab a friend and go to town on it. Hopefully you can get it off even if it's cross-threaded. The only bummer is that might need a new axle if it's cross-thread.
Anyhow, took the car to a local station, the mechanic put a high torque impact wrench to it and was finally able to get it off BUT not without damaging the the threads to the spindle shaft. So in addition to replacing the bearing, I had to replace the CV shaft and wheel hub as well. Mechanic screwed up wheel hub when he was trying to pull the inner bearing race off by using an air cut-off wheel and chisel. He missed and started cutting in to the mating surface of the hub to the bearing - I didn't even noticed it until i bought him a new wheel hub. Always lesson leaned for myself - don't bring car to mechanic if you can do the work yourself because they tend to work fast and not use the appropriate tool to salvage potentially good parts for you.
btw - hub costs $150 + tax from Nissan stealership.
Anyhow, car seems to run good now - no more loose wheel.
07-27-2008, 03:19 PM
#6557
Hello all. I'm new to this site, so bear with me. I have a 2000 SE with automatic, and for several months now there has been an intermittent squeak coming from the car. You hear it around idle speed, when taking off from a stop and when coming to a stop. It's short usually just 1 or 2 short squeaks. After crawing around, under the hood and under the car I have only been able to determine that it's coming from the passenger side of the car, towards the back of the engine. If I put the car into neutral and rev the engine you will hear it just before the engine drops back to idle speed. The noise is much louder when your under the car as opposed to looking under the hood. The car also has an occasional hard start. So I'm wondering if its possibly the starter. Sorry if I was a little long winded on the description.
thanks much.
thanks much.
07-27-2008, 10:23 PM
#6559
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tewksbury
Posts: 129
my 2002 maxima has either a bad clutch, or possibly a bent shifter linkage. i bought the car about 2months ago and every time my rps are over 2500 in second i hav to let them drop below 2k before i can go into 3rd. If i dont it grinds a little. At first i figured it was driver inexperience since this is my first standard, but everyone said its not me and im pretty good at driving it. I was told to try to bleed my clutch but i never done that to a clutch. So i dont know where to bleed it from and how to work the clutch so that it doesnt suck air into it. any one have any suggestions
07-27-2008, 10:54 PM
#6560
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 242
blue lights
sorry to revive a old thread but im actually trying to replace the orange bulb on my head lights with a blue one.. is this legal? is this possible? any bulb number guys?
i woulod honest and truely appreciate all your help as i am a newbie!
also im usually in the FL/Miami-Tampa and NY/New York City-Bronx-Queens Areas.. are they legal in these areas?
i know not the best question im just worried about tickets
<3
i woulod honest and truely appreciate all your help as i am a newbie!
also im usually in the FL/Miami-Tampa and NY/New York City-Bronx-Queens Areas.. are they legal in these areas?
i know not the best question im just worried about tickets
<3
Last edited by dewd; 07-27-2008 at 11:06 PM.