Right. I know that--that's what I posted about. Has anyone successfully bypassed this, so that the light flash when you unlock, but the horn doesn't honk when you lock?

 

ok so my max turns off when I start it in the morning. this all started like during the summer. in the summer when I didnt have a cold air intake..I would start the car and the car starts perfectly fine but after a few seconds the rpm would drop and the car would feel like if it were gonna turn off but wouldnt because the rpm would go bak up and stay normal. So this problem has carried on for about 6 months now. the difference is that now I have an injen cold air intake so now the car starts fine like it alwayz and still drops in rpm...but now when it drops it trys to go bak up but doesnt and the car jus turns off. if I start the car and give it gas slightly without letting off...the car doesnt turn off instead it stays on still with the rpm lowering but den it just levels off and does not turn off...now if I try to drive the car right away the car stalls and moves barely like if it were recieving no gas. this happens for a few seconds then after the car is warmed up its perfectly fine. so lets say i drive the car and park it and den get bak in it later on the same thing happens but less everything happens in less time unless it waz right away den it doesnt happen at all....which means that this problem is directly related with the engine being cold and warm...I really dont know what the problem is and maybe this has happened to someone else so hit me up wit any ideas

 

So why wont my avatar work and how do i get that picture at the bottom of my posts?? Anyone??

 

I think you gotta donate ($20) to have those features.

 

avatar is for donating members.

I believe that your signature can be added in your User CP settings.

 

i plan on installing some new struts(illuminas) and springs(eibachs) on my 01 5spd Maxima about 52k miles on it. I was wondering what parts I should also replace while I'm at it. From the threads I've been reading, I should replace all the rubber parts. I'm thinking I should get new dust boots, but not sure about the strut mounts (insulator, bracket, and bearing) and the spring seats. I believe all that only regards to the front, and I'm not sure about the rear. thanks for the help!!

 

the boots are the main thing you should replace

 

Do the boots, but since you got those parts disassembled you might as well replace the strut bearings on the front. I recommend you get new paper gaskets as well as those tend to rip or tear when disassembling those parts.

 

First off, If this is the wrong place to post, I apologize in advance.

Ok, so here is my deal, its a 5th Gen Maxima (2000)

Problem: Car takes 5-10min of cranking before starting up. Starter sounds fine, but I just hear the cranking over and over again, and then the car will just start up, idle to 1500 rpm back down to 700 rpm and then run absolutely fine until i shut the car off.

I replaced my clutch this summer, which included removing the ground wire coming from the battery terminal off of the bell housing so I thought that might be loose, but I checked for proper grounding which was fine. Also visually checked the wiring from the solenoid which looked alright (secured) I did not test it for resistance or voltage.

I thought that it was a fuel pump / filter problem, replaced the pump in the tank this weekend and cleaned filter, which made the car start up within 30 sec of initial cranking which I could live with. But this morning just like before almost 10 min of cranking until car starts.

Car has NO SES lights, everything seems to be working fine. Tripped 2 ignition coils last summer, both of which were replaced with the new Gray dot coil. Also all spark plugs were replaced about 20K ago. I use 91 gas.

Anyone have any ideas, am I missing something, or am I posting this in the complete wrong spot. Thanks in advance

 

2k max 134k miles

ok i found there is a bad connection to my cyl. 2 fuel injector from the wiring harness. Right now the car shutters, when you push down on the connection the car smooths out-let go of the connection back to shuttering.

1- Can I fix this with out replacing anything?
2- If I replace the connector do I splice the new one to the harness or do I buy a new harness?

Thanks for any input.

 

Still need help on this one.

 

Is there any way to pull SES codes without using an OBDII tool?

I just changed the plugs and MAF and didn't have any codes before that. I was experiencing some hesitation over 3k rpms and after some research and changing the plugs everything pointed to the MAF. Now the car runs fantastic, but the light is on. It's a 2001 SE with 113k.

 

You would have to splice into the PCM/BCM which is not adviced.

Why do you want to do this anyways?

 

If it's running, go by a Autozone type store for a free scan. You can't retrieve it any other way.

 

They'll scan it for free? Nice!

 

I bet yours is an '00 or '01........... check this thread out

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-00-01-a.html

 

hey everyone, i just recently purchased a 02 maxima SE and i'm now looking for an intake.. i see a lot of people have the Berk intake and i was actually wondering what the difference is between an intake w/ Apexi Air Filter and an intake w/ AEM Dryflow Air Filter? im also thinking about the Injen CAI.. any thoughts about that? any help will be appreciated

 

If it's too complicated, I'll leave it alone. I want to do it because I want the lights to flash when I unlock, but I don't want the horn to honk when I lock. Looks like I can't have it both ways.... unless someone else has an idea.

 

This thread is getting long. I've had the same cold start problem in my wifey's 2k Max with 130k miles for a few months now with Bank2 running lean. Starts and surges until warmed up, then runs okay, but not great. Reading through all comments in the forums, I just couldn't start throwing part$ at it hoping for a fix.

I discovered that when the coil packs get weak, the car will ping and clatter even with high octane fuel and octane boost, so I replaced them. Fixed the pinging, but still hesitates and surges in the mornings and now will not exceed 4500 RPM willfully. No codes now and I'm frustrated as heck after dropping $509 on new coil packs.

I then swapped the MAF sensor for a known good working sensor from a friends tool drawer and VOILA... it ran like a rocketship compared to before.

After that, I had the computer fuel map reset to default by a Nissan mechanic buddy of mine. The fuel was at 108% before and this resets it to 100% to learn driving habits all over again. We took it for a test drive and got those new Bridgstone Potenza Pole Position front tires nice and toasty. WOW, my power is back.

It would have cost me $260 labor and $940 parts to fix at the stealership and I still think it would have been worth it. If you don't want to drop $400 on a MAF, get one from a salvage yard, try it in a good working car, hnag on to it or keep it for one of your friends that has the same year Max. $20 is better than paying $400 for a MAF. I got mine for free and will get to return the favor to someone the same way some day.

Now I just need to fix that clunking sound in the front passenger area. Next Thread.

 

Is there any way to provide power to the auxiliary power outlets when the car is turned off. In my previous car, I was able to move a fuse from one spot to another in order to allow power to continue to the outlets. I am wanting to continue to charge my phone when the engine is turned off. Any suggestions?

 

I read about the diffrence in the 350z motor and the maxima motor. that the reason for the maxima not having as much power is because of a different ECU and intake manifold...is this true? and would it be a easy swap for both? cheap or pricey?

 

Stopped by and they pulled code p0420. I checked it out online and it seems like people are all over the board as to what this means or what the problem is. Some people are replacing o2 sensors, some replacing cats, some putting in o2 sims...what's the deal? Keep in mind I just changed my plugs and MAF and got this code the same day after I did the work.

 

Causes:

Improper ignition timing

 

I think the plugs are good. I double checked all the gaps and it idles smooth and runs perfect, no hesitation. Intake leaks might be a possibility because I had a hard time getting the tube hooked back to the throttle body. Good thought.

 

Hello I have a 2000 nissan maxima se that I got from a auto auction and I bought a keyless remote for it off ebay and I can't program it it's Model/ 01A and the fcc id is kbrastu10 My car was made in april 1999 what keyless remote do I need???

 

Read here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...try-brain.html


You need to match the FCC # off the module.

 

So I've been reading about this code and similar symptoms to my car for a few weeks now on this forum. I think I have a grasp of this problem, but I just want someone to confirm I'm right on this.

First off, I have a 2000 Maxima which is pretty new to me. I bought it from a friend a few months ago. Since it starting getting colder outside I've noticed it wasn't idling very well when cold, but got better once the motor was warmed up. A warm motor idles beautiful. So I know that could very well be an IAC from past experience with another vehicle. At this point I have no codes from the ECU though.

So I bought the IAR gasket (which looks more like a really fancy o-ring) and the throttle body gasket. I removed the TB and used TB cleaner on it. Pulled the IAC out and thoroughly cleaned the IAC with TB cleaner. A little gunked up, but not bad. Did all this at work one night. On the way home the computer throws a code and I later read it to be P050 and P050 PD. Also this morning was the coldest of the mornings yet this year and the car will not stay running for more the 10-20 seconds. It starts to sputter and surges until it stalls. I used my remote starter to re-start it about 4 times and finally on the forth it stayed idling.

Now I've read here that IAC can cause these symptoms. I've also read that the solinoid in the IAC can burn out some of the driver pins on the ECU causing many people here to have to replace both. Ouch! Anyways, I don't believe my ECU is screwed since it does idle OK once it warms up. I just think the IAC needs replacing.

What do you think? Am I close to being right?

Also, I can here the IAC solenoid clicking right after shutting the motor off. However, I only have done this test with a warm motor. If it is cold tomorrow morning I will listen for clicking after it stalls. If I don't here clicking I'll have to assume the solenoid is having trouble with the cold and therefore the problem is most likely the IAC. To bad you can't just replace the solenoid piece. Or can you? I called Napa and they said $450 for an IAC. That's insane. Nissan's are expensive to repair.

 

hello folks,

the maxima needs some new shock absorbers. ive been looking at some online but i'm not really sure what brands to look for. any recommendations on what to get to keep my baby damp on the crappy streets of boston? i dont need anything super sporty, just something with a good reputation and decent price. thank you all. that is all.

 

Ok I looked at the thread then I went to look at the brain and it looked yellowish and had no sticker like this one
and the only number on it was 434034 my car was manufactured April 1999 any help would be great. Plus I need to tell the guy that I bought the keyless entry off of the one that I need so we can exchange.

 

Ok I looked at the thread then I went to look at the brain and it looked yellowish and had no sticker like this one
and the only number on it was 434034 my car was manufactured April 1999 but it is a 2000 maxima SE. Any help would be great. Plus I need to tell the guy that I bought the keyless entry off of the one that I need so we can exchange.


Never mind I had to fight the dealership to get the code but I got it going from my vin# it was 282684z/nissan

 

Engine bay: I was about to check my ATF level when i noticed a loose hose in the area. It isn't connected to anything and there doesn't seem to be anything nearby. It has the numbers 5-2603 on the hose and i am stumped. It is just aft of the ATF dipstick and is shaped like a candy cane; it comes up from the bottom of the engine and is tethered two inches below where i found it loose. Please check yours (2003 std 3.5 engine) and let me know...THX!

 

This will be my first post :

I just took ownership of a Black 2000 Maxima SE. Seems like a very nice car. My Acura Legend has just about gone down for the count after 500,000kms.

I noticed several problems and I am looking for direction here :

1) Why can't I POST A NEW THREAD?
2) The car has a quick bad hesitation only in first gear at around 1700 rpms. All the other gears are very smooth.
2) The power door locks are dead. Where is the fuse? I have looked at every fuse box I don't see one labeled for the lock.
3) There is a code tripped - going to check them tomorrow I have a code reader.
4) Windshield has a crack.
5) Dome light seems to not work in door open position but I can manually turn off and on.
6) Does timing chain ever need to be replaced? I won't miss changing the belt on my Acura, in the 3 inches of space between engine and engine bay wall.

Other then that the car is really well kept. Black Leather is sweet! Bose Stereo is nice. Ride is quiet, not quite as nimble or responsive as my Acura, more body roll. Overall I am impressed my first day.

Thanks!

 

So I gotta question:

What the hell happened to http://www.motorvate.ca/ ???? Is it really down ???? I get this error message:
Error 500: Internal Server Error

The server encountered an unexpected condition which prevented it from fulfilling the request.
The problem is on the server side, not with your browser or the address. Most probably, a certain service (e.g., Tomcat engine) is down. Please contact your webmaster.
__________________________________________________ _____________________

Maxima sites slowly fading away. What a damn shame! Somebody help me here...

Bobby J

 

Has anybody removed the front seats? I have the directions from the ESM, but just wanna know how hard you think it is. Previous owner let some nasty crud spill down there.

 

EDIT: Found my answer by searching. Oops. Really outta learn to do that first before posting a question.

When I bought my Max this summer, she came with several keys. One of them is maroon colored, with a blue rectangle imprinted on the plastic. I just assumed it was the valet key, until a friend told me it might be for rekeying in the event that I lose all my other keys.

 

That's the breather hose for the autotragic/magic transmission. It's candy cane shaped with the open end pointed down to help stop debris from getting into it.

 

Very easy to do.

I had to remove the driver seat to unstick the elec. motor for the power height adjustment. I've now learned not to leave it fully in the down position, after bottoming out, I raise the seat a little both Front and Rear so keep it from getting stuck all the way down.

IIRC, it's just the 4 main bolts and a wiring plug or two for the power seat and/or seat belt sensor.

 

Ummmm......servers do encounter issues sometimes..... I get the same message if it matters.

 

hardy har har.... I know that servers experience issues at times and go down, but its been 2 weeks now. Maybe we should msg the guy who runs the site to tell cuz maybe he doesn't know? I forgot his screen name, do you know by any chance?

Thanks bro.

 

Any other recommended sites for changing spark plugs on a 2002 VQ35DE besides this one ?
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=27
Is this the same technique that the dealers use for chaning the spark plugs for this engine? Seems like there would be an easier way, but maybe this is why they use platinum because it's such a pain in the @#$.