I posted this a little while ago I am about to replace the IACV I am wondering if I am going in the right direction, any info would be helpful thanks.

I was looking at getting a set of 18x8 350Z rims for my 00 SE (currently 16" SE rims) the set comes with two 245/45/ZR18 Dunlops. Would these rub? (Im guessing better to put them on the back?) The car is not dropped.

Thanks!

I am getting shuttering from right front when applying brakes (worse at high speeds). Replaced pads and rotors and lubed caliper pins. It helped a little but still have big problem. I used a big C clamp and piece of wood to push piston back in and thinking maybe I made the piston crooked. Any insight?

What's up? I have searched my *** off for an answer but it doesn't seem to exist: While I like the lowered look, it's not practical for me. Does anyboby make a lift spring for the rears of the Max? Something small, like enough to bring it level or 1/4" higher than the front? I'm having an issue dragging the muffler on my concrete approach entering and exiting my drive.

i need one new or used front ignition coil for my 00 maxima. if anyone has any for sale, please post or email me at bassmasterwi@yahoo.com

I'm not an expert like some of these guys, but I would diagnose the fuel system. More specifically, the fuel pressure. Your symptoms are consistant with what I was dealing with. I had this problem with my 4th gen and I changed my fuel filter and fuel pump and it worked like a champ.

If you give it gas to keep the rpm a lil higher when you do come to a stop (put on park of course), does it keep the engine running without turning off? If so I suspect fuel pump, and if it is a fuel filter can only help. Keep looking for more answers though and good luck with it.

got a question about this timing chain/vtc noise. I have 94k miles on my 03 SE which I purchased new and maintain regularly. I have been hearing the vtc noise at startup since probably about 50k miles.

I have a new noise which I suspect may be a timing chain tensioner. It is a rattle sound almost identical to the vtc sound. it occurs with a warm engine as the rpm's drop. for instance if i have the car in park, rev it to about 4k rpm and then let off the gas, as the rpms drop, I will hear the rattle noise (same sounding rattle as the vtc startup sound) from say 3k all the way down to about 2k rpms.

any thoughts on this?

Prolly the same thing as this guy?

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ing-noise.html

yeah, thats the one I read that led me to post this question. i think you may be right. the only difference is his sounds like a constant tick/rattle. at idle my engine is quiet. its only after revving it that the noise occurs.

Noob question here. I looked at a one owner 2003 GLE last night at my local Nissan dealership. It has 90k miles but looks to be in great shape. My only concern is that the brackets that hold the radiator to the frame appeared to be rusty or corroded (see photo). This is not a picture of the car I'm looking at - just an example of the part I'm talking about. Thanks for your help.

I guess that might be a common thing, since my 03 max (63K) has the same issue. Its not going to effect anything at all, just doesn't look as nice.

Thanks...good to know.

Anyone else have this?

I'm having a rough idle problem when the car is cold. I've read alot on this forum about IACV's and upper intake manifold gaskets. Before I spend $500 on a IAC or 6 hours replacing a gasket I'd like to try to bypass the O2 sensors to make sure that is not the problem. I do get the IAC code (P0505), but I've read this can be deceiving. The first 30 seconds seems to idle fine but then it seems to have a duty cycle to the rough idle. Rough for 20 seconds or so, then good for 20 seconds or so. It's hard to believe it is a gasket with a idle that is acting like it is. After the car warms up for 5 minutes or so the idle problem goes away. My Ford truck goes into closed loop after about 15 seconds which is much faster then my old GMC which seemed to take about 2 minutes. How long does it typically take these O2 sensors on the Maximas to heat up to closed loop?

I want to put the car in open loop and I know on previous vehicles I've owned you could short a pin to gnd to put into open loop. Can you do this for a 2000 Maxima?

Need an advice. I have Tein with KYB GR2, but the front of the car do not bounce I think either the shocks blows or the weight of the car it’s too much for the KYB. My question is, what’s good for the maxima 00, Tokitos blues or Illuminas ? just for the front of the car.

thanks

Had cruise set doing about 80 with my 2001 at 140k noticed my cruise control light flashing and then after I shut down cruise control the overdrive light started flashing. Could not stop it by pressing switch, so I put in neutral shut off car and restarted. Everyting has worked fine the last 2 days...is this a pre-warning of a bad TCM or maybe a one time glitch. Any other stories out there concerning these lights flashing....I have searched for about 30 minutes and only one post about flashing O/D light came up but nobody answered that one. Thanks

Are you sure it is a rotor feeling pulse or possibly and ABS pulse? Typically when ABS fails it just fails, however you already covered the most common cause in it being bad rotors. Another possibility would be the tire may be bad...where is the pulse coming from..the steering wheel or the brake pedal?

Probably a failing speed sensor.

Yes....I have this too. I think its common but isnt anything to worry about. If it really bothers you to look at, just sand it down, clean it up and paint it with some high temp paint.

I have a 03 and have been having some some problems with the brakes. When coming to a stop they were shuddering slightly. This has stopped but I wanted to get it checked out anyway. My mechanic said that he looked over the brakes and that the roters and pads looked good. He stated that the rears should have a slight drag on them and that mine didn't. He said that this is a common problem with the Maxima's and that its from the pistons having corrosion in them. This causes a slight delay when the brakes are depressed and that the fronts are engaging before the rears. He said that I will have to replace the rear calipers and that this should be done soon because it is causing the fronts to wear faster and my warp the roters from excess heat.

Does anyone know if this is a common problem with the Maximas? Also what should it cost for this type of repair? He stated about $500 for new calipers.

I hope I explained myself corectly and I already tried the search function with no answers.

Shuttering in the steering wheel? I don't see how a bad rear caliper can cause a steering wheel shutter...... It's almost always a warped rotor. How did he test them? You can't just look at the rotors and say they are good. Get them turned, should only cost about $20.

Thanks for the reassurance.

I took it to my mechanic today to check out before I decide to buy. He gave it a thumbs up. He said he doesn't get to say Yes to very many used cars people bring in. I'm excited. I put a deposit down and will pick it up on the 17th after I close on my house.

2003 GLE (Meridian) and everything but navi, 90k miles, new tires, brakes, battery and good service records. $8,900.

Im sorry maybe shuttering wasn't a good discription. I felt a vibration in the brake pedal, if that makes sense. As for testing them he put it up on the lift and spun the wheels. He didn't hear them gripping in the rear. He said that the brakes should always be slightly touching the rotors in the rear. Because they weren't, he said that the calipers were bad.

I just have some question just to understand my car better. Yesterday, i clean my MAF. I didn't do the ecm reset and the idle relearn. What happen if i don't reset my ecm? How can i know if i need to do a ildle relearn? I got a little problem with some abbreviation that you use. I'm from montreal so my english is not really wow loll.. So what's "rev's"?? And how can i put my ignition on or off? If i want to make the relearn, i got to know how to do.
Thank you some much for your help
my car is a maxima 2001 AE 93000 miles

Reseting your ECM can mean unplugging the battery for an extended amount of time (overnight) or taking it to the dealer to reset. I havent taken it to the dealer, however some claim this is necessary? The purpose is to allow the ECU to relearn the signal sent by the MAF, which should have changed with the cleaning.

Rev's= Revolutions - usually RPMs Revolutions Per Min, refering to engine obviously.
Ignition on- key completely forward however starter not engaged.
Off- key backward. Both are marked on the column

Anyone know how to force to open loop? Or should I ask what you guys what you think about my rims. I'll probably get 200 replys.

Can anyone give me any advise on this...


I bought a new primed bumber cover.
I would like to install it ASAP!
What kind of clips do i need to install the cover?

Any additional comments or problems that i may come across while installing?

I do not have a grille for the new cover yet either...

I want an auto tap for my ford truck and maxima, but the auto taps don't show more then a dozen or so sensors on Japanese cars. They support Ford pretty good though.

If I get an auto tap unit, is there software out there that can use the autotap hardware but datalog my maxima? Or is there a good obdII datalogger out there?

Does anyone know if this is common?

ummmm.......don't go back to that mechanic. The rear caliper glide pins should be greased for starters. Chances that both calipers are broke is pretty slim as well.

Please ask him why the calipers should be engaged to the rotors when the brakes are not applied. This would quickly wear down your pads.

Does the shuttering the pedal feel like the ABS kicking in? I would start by turning (lathe) the rear rotors. I would concentrate on the rears, because if it were the fronts, you would also feel it through the steering wheel.

He said that they should always be lightly touching the rotor. This is true with my motocycle when free wheeling and up on a jack, if the wheel is spun you can hear the brakes slighty rubbing the rotors. As for the shuttering it wasn't the ABS it was only felt and low speeds and just prior to comming to a complete stop. I will take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.

Thanks for your responses. If the calipers are the problem how much should it cost?

Mike

During a recent pm service, I was advised the front/rear shocks and struts need replacement. After nearly 125k mileage of my 2000 Maxima GLE, I think I've been fortunate to skate by without serious, major issues. It doesn't run like a top anymore, but it still very dependable, body / interior in good hsape as well

MAIN TOPIC: would or do the all-knowing Maxima folks here have additional suggestions or preparations I should be making / reviewing. For one example...the automatic trans has appeared to slip on occasion. Pretty much an auto novice, mechanically speaking...input is certainly appreciated. thanks

*and to my knowledge i know of no other major disfunctions / ongoing problems to speak of, than the 2 referred above

i see a lot of newbies posting in here....

Hello im new to the msg. board so please forgive me ut ive searched all over the internet and taken my car to 3 mechanics and no fixes yet so heres the story...

I Drive a 2000 Maxima SE 5sp and I love it
last week i was driving to the gas station and i was shifting from first to second and it felt like it was grabbing a little weird then i shifted from 2nd to 3rd and it grabbed close to the floor and then i arrived at the gas station turned off the car and put gas in and then tried to put the clutch down and start it and it stuck to the floor. so I just rev shifted it home about 1/8mile and checked the reservorir and it was empty. I figured it had air in it and needed to be bled. The next day i tried to bleed it and still nothing so I replaced the slave clyinder with some help and still nothing!!!! I took it to a mechanic and they said the master cylinder...so i replaced the master cylinder and it didnt work either!!!so i took it to a diff mechanic and he said that the line was clogged and it would cost me 600 to fix that!!!! so i took it to a diff mechaic from the first two for a second opinion and they said it was the wrong master cylinder (too long we compared the two ) and they said nothing was wrong with the original one anyways...its at the shop right now till monday and Im just at my end with this problem all together! any advice or opinions would help me alot seeing as I lost my job not to long ago and havent been making alot at the new job to let the mechanic do whatever. Thanks!!!
I dont think its the clutch because I constantly check where it grabs and ive driven a car with a bad clutch before and Its not slipping or anything...
P.S. im pretty good with my shifting...how long/far could I drive without the clutch and risking doing bad damage...Like a straight 350 mile drive across Kansas flat as could be and back 350 miles... thank you for the help!

dang it...you found us out. now our plan of message board dominance is foiled

I have a 2002 maxima with the manual ac NOT climate control. It seems the temp control for heat is overly sensitive, I find I am constantly moving the temp control while driving and cant seem to get the right temp. Is this considered normal. On other cars I own I dont seem to have to adjust the heat so often. Thermostat ok and engine temp where they should be.

Ray

When I crank my car in the morning, I hear a rattling noise (on cold start). I just bought the car (from dealership) end of October. Still isn't time to change the oil yet. Not sure of what type of oil is in it. 1500 miles on conventional oil. Noise last about 2-3 seconds. Sounds like its coming from the driver side. plz help?!?!

What year? AT or manual? It sounds like the AT mounts on a 2k/2k1.

2003, automatic