5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
11-22-2008, 08:44 PM
#7201
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 15
Need procedure to adjust the TPS on a 2000 Maxima
I am looking for the procedure to adjust the TP sensor on a 2000 Maxima. I did find a thread where someone asked for this exact procedure but was referred to a much older, none similar, 1993 Maxima.
11-23-2008, 08:04 AM
#7202
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
Parastic drain from 10A. ALT.S fuse. What is it?
Well, looks like alternator is ok. When tested while idling, it reads 14V. When tested while key off, the battery reads 12.4V.
The 10A current read from the negative post to the ground cable is 0.015A. It doesn't look like a parasitic drain. After removing each fuse, I still get 0.015A.
I can't find a glove box light. I guess it went out, which might cause the problem? What else can cause the battery drain?
The 10A current read from the negative post to the ground cable is 0.015A. It doesn't look like a parasitic drain. After removing each fuse, I still get 0.015A.
I can't find a glove box light. I guess it went out, which might cause the problem? What else can cause the battery drain?
Here are my questions:
1. Is this fuse related to Alternator? I just replaced the Alternator 2 months ago? Does that mean something wrong with the Alternator? I suspect some circuits inside Alternator have shorting issue, which causes the drain. However, the alternator works fine which output voltage is around 14.10V.
2. The fuse itself looks OK. Should I replace it?
3. How can I dig further to find the exact problem for this drain?
Thanks,
11-23-2008, 03:35 PM
#7203
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
This will be my first post : (but the second time) How is a "noobie" supposed to get a reply in this mess of questions? I copied this and posted right away at Nissanforums.com (what is the delay in a new member posting?)
I just took ownership of a Black 2000 Maxima SE. Seems like a very nice car. My Acura Legend has just about gone down for the count after 500,000kms.
I noticed several problems and I am looking for direction here :
1) The car has a quick bad hesitation only in first gear at around 1700 rpms when moving from a stop. It feels like it will stall for a half second. All the other gears are very smooth. (I searched through all the threads before I posted - maybe a MAF problem?)
2) The power door locks are dead. Where is the fuse? I have looked at every fuse box I don't see one labeled for the lock. The keyless entry has no effect. The car had sat for a while and the battery was depleted just before i bought it, could this have affected it?
3) There is a code tripped - P0141 - I cleared it it has not come back for the last 100km's.
4) Windshield has a crack.
5) Dome light seems to not work in door open position but I can manually turn off and on. The lights in the doors do come on though, just not the main one?
6) Does timing chain ever need to be replaced? I won't miss changing the belt on my Acura, in the 3 inches of space between engine and engine bay wall.
7) What kind of gas mileage can i expect with the 3.0 L engine? The gas tank takes a lot of gas, more then any other car I have owned.
Other then that the car is really well kept. Black Leather is sweet! Bose Stereo is nice. Ride is quiet, not quite as nimble or responsive as my Acura, more body roll. Overall I am impressed my first day.
Thanks!
I just took ownership of a Black 2000 Maxima SE. Seems like a very nice car. My Acura Legend has just about gone down for the count after 500,000kms.
I noticed several problems and I am looking for direction here :
1) The car has a quick bad hesitation only in first gear at around 1700 rpms when moving from a stop. It feels like it will stall for a half second. All the other gears are very smooth. (I searched through all the threads before I posted - maybe a MAF problem?)
2) The power door locks are dead. Where is the fuse? I have looked at every fuse box I don't see one labeled for the lock. The keyless entry has no effect. The car had sat for a while and the battery was depleted just before i bought it, could this have affected it?
3) There is a code tripped - P0141 - I cleared it it has not come back for the last 100km's.
4) Windshield has a crack.
5) Dome light seems to not work in door open position but I can manually turn off and on. The lights in the doors do come on though, just not the main one?
6) Does timing chain ever need to be replaced? I won't miss changing the belt on my Acura, in the 3 inches of space between engine and engine bay wall.
7) What kind of gas mileage can i expect with the 3.0 L engine? The gas tank takes a lot of gas, more then any other car I have owned.
Other then that the car is really well kept. Black Leather is sweet! Bose Stereo is nice. Ride is quiet, not quite as nimble or responsive as my Acura, more body roll. Overall I am impressed my first day.
Thanks!
11-23-2008, 04:10 PM
#7204
This will be my first post : (but the second time) How is a "noobie" supposed to get a reply in this mess of questions? I copied this and posted right away at Nissanforums.com (what is the delay in a new member posting?)
I just took ownership of a Black 2000 Maxima SE. Seems like a very nice car. My Acura Legend has just about gone down for the count after 500,000kms.
I noticed several problems and I am looking for direction here :
1) The car has a quick bad hesitation only in first gear at around 1700 rpms when moving from a stop. It feels like it will stall for a half second. All the other gears are very smooth. (I searched through all the threads before I posted - maybe a MAF problem?)
2) The power door locks are dead. Where is the fuse? I have looked at every fuse box I don't see one labeled for the lock. The keyless entry has no effect. The car had sat for a while and the battery was depleted just before i bought it, could this have affected it?
3) There is a code tripped - P0141 - I cleared it it has not come back for the last 100km's.
4) Windshield has a crack.
5) Dome light seems to not work in door open position but I can manually turn off and on. The lights in the doors do come on though, just not the main one?
6) Does timing chain ever need to be replaced? I won't miss changing the belt on my Acura, in the 3 inches of space between engine and engine bay wall.
7) What kind of gas mileage can i expect with the 3.0 L engine? The gas tank takes a lot of gas, more then any other car I have owned.
Other then that the car is really well kept. Black Leather is sweet! Bose Stereo is nice. Ride is quiet, not quite as nimble or responsive as my Acura, more body roll. Overall I am impressed my first day.
Thanks!
I just took ownership of a Black 2000 Maxima SE. Seems like a very nice car. My Acura Legend has just about gone down for the count after 500,000kms.
I noticed several problems and I am looking for direction here :
1) The car has a quick bad hesitation only in first gear at around 1700 rpms when moving from a stop. It feels like it will stall for a half second. All the other gears are very smooth. (I searched through all the threads before I posted - maybe a MAF problem?)
2) The power door locks are dead. Where is the fuse? I have looked at every fuse box I don't see one labeled for the lock. The keyless entry has no effect. The car had sat for a while and the battery was depleted just before i bought it, could this have affected it?
3) There is a code tripped - P0141 - I cleared it it has not come back for the last 100km's.
4) Windshield has a crack.
5) Dome light seems to not work in door open position but I can manually turn off and on. The lights in the doors do come on though, just not the main one?
6) Does timing chain ever need to be replaced? I won't miss changing the belt on my Acura, in the 3 inches of space between engine and engine bay wall.
7) What kind of gas mileage can i expect with the 3.0 L engine? The gas tank takes a lot of gas, more then any other car I have owned.
Other then that the car is really well kept. Black Leather is sweet! Bose Stereo is nice. Ride is quiet, not quite as nimble or responsive as my Acura, more body roll. Overall I am impressed my first day.
Thanks!
2) check ALL the fuses, make sure the switch is working properly too.
3) P0141 - O2 Sensor heater Circuit malfunction
4) replace windshield ~ $220
5) Main door switch most likely no good, replace and check again.
6) For most drivers, chain doesn't have to be replaced but chain tensioners will most likely need to be.
7) I get 24 mpg mixed on my 3.5. I constantly got 24 average on my 3.0. It all depends on your driving though. heavy foot = bad gas mileage.
Good luck with your new car and welcome to the forum.
11-23-2008, 04:15 PM
#7205
Nissan recommends the idle relearn procedure if the throttlebody, TPS or IACV is replaced, It doesn't say in the repair manual, as far as I can see, that you have to do it if the same one is removed and reinstalled.
Here's the idle relearn procedure for the 2000 and 2001 Maxima. I'm not sure what year you have.
Without CONSULT-II
1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING”
(engine and transmission at operating temp., wheels straight, everything off except engine) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown),
then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the
result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.
ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 625±50 rpm
A/T: 700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC
A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
I believe the info about adjusting the actual TPS should be in the factory service manual that you can download from phatg20.net.
11-23-2008, 04:47 PM
#7206
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: rhode island
Posts: 1
NEED HELP IM A NEWBIE PROBLEM WITH MY 2K MAXIMA
I HAVE 2000 maxima and is currenty making a loud noise when the heat and car start up?? the blower motor on passenger side you hear it loud and gets a smell of antifreeze but then goes away,i have noticed the smell of anti freeze a few times before?? is this the start of a bad heater core or something else??please help
11-24-2008, 10:35 AM
#7207
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
Bad idle !!
Hi,
I just wanna know if i have a bad IACV, can it broke other things in the car? Because I don't have the money right now to change it, so i just wanna know if i can wait a little bit . Just the time to have some money. My ecm to is not good, that's why it's really expensive.
Thanks you !!
I just wanna know if i have a bad IACV, can it broke other things in the car? Because I don't have the money right now to change it, so i just wanna know if i can wait a little bit . Just the time to have some money. My ecm to is not good, that's why it's really expensive.
Thanks you !!
11-24-2008, 11:44 AM
#7208
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Engine bay: I was about to check my ATF level when i noticed a loose hose in the area. It isn't connected to anything and there doesn't seem to be anything nearby. It has the numbers 5-2603 on the hose and i am stumped. It is just aft of the ATF dipstick and is shaped like a candy cane; it comes up from the bottom of the engine and is tethered two inches below where i found it loose. Please check yours (2003 std 3.5 engine) and let me know...THX!
11-24-2008, 11:51 AM
#7209
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 5
Looking for the best place for interior parts....
The plastic piece surrounding the shifter and ashtray in my 2000 maxima SE is all scratched up and looks like garbage. Where would I get such a part besides the dealer? Any ideas?
11-24-2008, 02:34 PM
#7210
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 6
Leaking Clutch Line
My clutch pedal has no pressure each morning until i pump it for about 20 min. I have bleed the clutch line and this fixes the problem for about a day, but soon the same problem reoccurs. When I bled the lines I first filled up the master cylinder reservoir, and then right after I bled the lines again to top it off. About two weeks later I found the reservoir to have lost almost half of its volume, so the fluid must be going somewhere. This weekend I also replaced my starter for an unrelated problem, while doing this I checked for leaking DOT3 fluid between the slave and master cylinder and along the lines but everything looked dry. Am I just no looking hard enough? Should I be looking anywhere else besides slave, banjo fitting, hard line, soft line and back to master.
11-24-2008, 04:32 PM
#7211
11-24-2008, 06:46 PM
#7212
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
1) if its auto, check your fluid level, it might also be the tranny computer as these have a tendency to go bad on the 2000.
2) check ALL the fuses, make sure the switch is working properly too.
3) P0141 - O2 Sensor heater Circuit malfunction
4) replace windshield ~ $220
5) Main door switch most likely no good, replace and check again.
6) For most drivers, chain doesn't have to be replaced but chain tensioners will most likely need to be.
7) I get 24 mpg mixed on my 3.5. I constantly got 24 average on my 3.0. It all depends on your driving though. heavy foot = bad gas mileage.
Good luck with your new car and welcome to the forum.
2) check ALL the fuses, make sure the switch is working properly too.
3) P0141 - O2 Sensor heater Circuit malfunction
4) replace windshield ~ $220
5) Main door switch most likely no good, replace and check again.
6) For most drivers, chain doesn't have to be replaced but chain tensioners will most likely need to be.
7) I get 24 mpg mixed on my 3.5. I constantly got 24 average on my 3.0. It all depends on your driving though. heavy foot = bad gas mileage.
Good luck with your new car and welcome to the forum.
1)The car is a standard 5 spd sorry, Its for sure not the tranny. I can see the MAF has been played with since elc. plug is tie wrapped in place. If I rev past 1500 rpms when I launch the hesitation does not occur.
2) I checked all the fuses (1,10,12,13) apparently have the inputs to the door lock, didn't think of the door panel switch though? But keyless is dead along with the locks figuring this is all one related problem so I was thinking control module under dash beside steering column?
3) thanks again for the other things to try, I'll work on those as well.
One more question - I noticed that Premium fuel is recommended - can I get away with regular gas but stick with the better brands (Shell?) Can there be problems using regular gas long term? I have regular in at the moment, there is no knock or ping. Can it carbon up?
Last edited by MaximumMaxima; 11-24-2008 at 07:07 PM.
11-24-2008, 06:55 PM
#7213
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
My clutch pedal has no pressure each morning until i pump it for about 20 min. I have bleed the clutch line and this fixes the problem for about a day, but soon the same problem reoccurs. When I bled the lines I first filled up the master cylinder reservoir, and then right after I bled the lines again to top it off. About two weeks later I found the reservoir to have lost almost half of its volume, so the fluid must be going somewhere. This weekend I also replaced my starter for an unrelated problem, while doing this I checked for leaking DOT3 fluid between the slave and master cylinder and along the lines but everything looked dry. Am I just no looking hard enough? Should I be looking anywhere else besides slave, banjo fitting, hard line, soft line and back to master.
A real simple test to see if your master is the problem is to pinch off the rubber hose gently just after the master then try to pump the clutch but don't force it. If you have pressure and its hard to push you know that part is good. Then follow the line and try to pinch it off in other places down to the slave cylinder. That should pin point your problem area easily and for free. (you don't swap out parts and have to guess).
If the clutch goes to the floor and gets stuck half way back, that is usually an indication of slave problems or worse - your fork itself is not pushing back (problem inside the tranny maybe a seized throw bearing...
11-24-2008, 07:01 PM
#7214
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
I HAVE 2000 maxima and is currenty making a loud noise when the heat and car start up?? the blower motor on passenger side you hear it loud and gets a smell of antifreeze but then goes away,i have noticed the smell of anti freeze a few times before?? is this the start of a bad heater core or something else??please help
Does your windshield fog up with a light white film if you put it on defrost and smell sweet? If yes you have a leaking heater core.
11-24-2008, 07:14 PM
#7215
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
It turns out that I have used the incorrect setting for measuring 10A current when I said 0.015A. Now the correct reading is 0.55A drain. After several tries, I got 10A. ALT.S fuse for drain of 0.5A (Before removing it, I got 0.55A. After removing it, I got 0.045A). Clearly this is the problem.
Here are my questions:
1. Is this fuse related to Alternator? I just replaced the Alternator 2 months ago? Does that mean something wrong with the Alternator? I suspect some circuits inside Alternator have shorting issue, which causes the drain. However, the alternator works fine which output voltage is around 14.10V.
2. The fuse itself looks OK. Should I replace it?
3. How can I dig further to find the exact problem for this drain?
Thanks,
Here are my questions:
1. Is this fuse related to Alternator? I just replaced the Alternator 2 months ago? Does that mean something wrong with the Alternator? I suspect some circuits inside Alternator have shorting issue, which causes the drain. However, the alternator works fine which output voltage is around 14.10V.
2. The fuse itself looks OK. Should I replace it?
3. How can I dig further to find the exact problem for this drain?
Thanks,
happy hunting
11-24-2008, 10:23 PM
#7216
What is involved in a manual to auto climate control swap for a 2000. i am assuming it is for the most part plug and play, an estimated cost would help too if its easy.
i did some and saw that there were some hits in this thread but there are 181 pages to search through...
Thanks in advance
i did some and saw that there were some hits in this thread but there are 181 pages to search through...
Thanks in advance
11-25-2008, 11:52 AM
#7217
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
one of the fuses causes the 0.5A drain. It's 10A. ALT.
I find the simplest method for the "backyard" mechanic is to use a clamp Ammeter. If you can borrow from someone. Clamp it around your Pos. cable at the battery. Have a friend watch it and one by one pull the fuses out and replace until u see the meter reading drop. Then at least you find the circut your drain comes from. If it never drops you can have a short through the alternator itself (common problem with so called rebuilt units).
happy hunting
happy hunting
I stop by Advance auto parts and have them tested my battery and alternator. Battery is good, holding the charge. The weird thing is that their testing tool won't go further once the car is off (key out) with 0.5A drain, saying something wrong with the key is still in the on position. If they take the fuse out and I start the car, there is no charging voltage from alternator.
I will try to disconnect the connector at the back of the alternator and retest at the battery. If the drain is still 0A, it should be alternator.
11-25-2008, 02:25 PM
#7218
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thank you! I can only get online sporadically (gotta work my job too!) Just discovered this site via Google search. Here's my question: my 2003 Max SE with 97000 miles has been requiring at least 1 qt. oil between 3-3500 mile oil changes. "Service Engine Soon" light came on. A mechanic friend changed spark plugs, replaced with OEM plugs. Removed intake to install rear plugs, intake full of oil & 1 spark plug chamber full. Told me to take to dealer. Took to dealer, computer code showed variable timing solenoid bad. Service manager said replacing VTS will fix oil leak problem. Will it really fix the problem or do I have another issue going on? When "Service Engine Soon" light came on, engine idled rough but once at road speed, no miss. I bought 100,000 mile extended warranty so want to be sure dealer fixes everything wrong now 'cause won't be long & 100,000 miles will be here. Anything else I need to look at? Oh yeah, at start-up I did have some "knocking" - it never used to do that. My 1st Max after having an Altima, love Nissan vehicles.
11-25-2008, 02:40 PM
#7219
Thank you! I can only get online sporadically (gotta work my job too!) Just discovered this site via Google search. Here's my question: my 2003 Max SE with 97000 miles has been requiring at least 1 qt. oil between 3-3500 mile oil changes. "Service Engine Soon" light came on. A mechanic friend changed spark plugs, replaced with OEM plugs. Removed intake to install rear plugs, intake full of oil & 1 spark plug chamber full. Told me to take to dealer. Took to dealer, computer code showed variable timing solenoid bad. Service manager said replacing VTS will fix oil leak problem. Will it really fix the problem or do I have another issue going on? When "Service Engine Soon" light came on, engine idled rough but once at road speed, no miss. I bought 100,000 mile extended warranty so want to be sure dealer fixes everything wrong now 'cause won't be long & 100,000 miles will be here. Anything else I need to look at? Oh yeah, at start-up I did have some "knocking" - it never used to do that. My 1st Max after having an Altima, love Nissan vehicles.
The knocking is probably because of the oil in your intake which is lowering your octane level. you should be using 91 or better by the way. Like i said above, i dont know a ton about the VTS but unless it is on the intake, and i doubt it is (probably on the head somewhere) you PCV valve is probably dumping all the oil into your intake.
11-25-2008, 05:02 PM
#7221
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Montreal
Posts: 57
Hello Everybody,
I have a question but dont know if its been asked already; so I'm gonna risk it.
I've always been curious to know since they're somewhat the same dimension in wheel base, if the rear seats from the infinity I35 would fit right in our maximas (you gotta love those head rests). But I dont think its the same leather. Has anyone ever tried the experiment? Or even thought about it?
It is now opened for discussion....!!
I have a question but dont know if its been asked already; so I'm gonna risk it.
I've always been curious to know since they're somewhat the same dimension in wheel base, if the rear seats from the infinity I35 would fit right in our maximas (you gotta love those head rests). But I dont think its the same leather. Has anyone ever tried the experiment? Or even thought about it?
It is now opened for discussion....!!
11-25-2008, 05:45 PM
#7222
The line from the PCV valve connects into the intake just after the MAF, if you trace it back you should be able to find it pretty easily. On an 03 i believe it is on the bank closest to the front of the car. I believe it screws out too instead of just sliding out like most other cars i have seen
11-25-2008, 07:01 PM
#7223
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2
Hey guys,
I browsed around to see if this has been asked already but havent found crap but would any cat-back exhaust sold for the 00-01 max still fit the 02-03 or would some custom work have to be done to make it fit?
I browsed around to see if this has been asked already but havent found crap but would any cat-back exhaust sold for the 00-01 max still fit the 02-03 or would some custom work have to be done to make it fit?
11-25-2008, 07:30 PM
#7224
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
where is the main lead on the alternator?
Thanks for the suggestion. Actually I have used the multimeter to find out that one of the fuses causes the 0.5A drain. It's 10A. ALT.S. I couldn't find out what it is. I guess it might be related to Alternator.
I stop by Advance auto parts and have them tested my battery and alternator. Battery is good, holding the charge. The weird thing is that their testing tool won't go further once the car is off (key out) with 0.5A drain, saying something wrong with the key is still in the on position. If they take the fuse out and I start the car, there is no charging voltage from alternator.
I will try to disconnect the connector at the back of the alternator and retest at the battery. If the drain is still 0A, it should be alternator.
I stop by Advance auto parts and have them tested my battery and alternator. Battery is good, holding the charge. The weird thing is that their testing tool won't go further once the car is off (key out) with 0.5A drain, saying something wrong with the key is still in the on position. If they take the fuse out and I start the car, there is no charging voltage from alternator.
I will try to disconnect the connector at the back of the alternator and retest at the battery. If the drain is still 0A, it should be alternator.
Thanks,
11-25-2008, 08:01 PM
#7225
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 7
You should be able to see it down low just in front of the timing chain area and the radiator. The leads are right there top side as well. The radiator shroud covers it up.
11-25-2008, 09:18 PM
#7226
all the catbacks are the same for our cars.....i believe
11-26-2008, 12:55 AM
#7227
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2
It isn't a maxima but it has the same subsystems.
I have a 2000 skyline R34 and am having trouble with NATS/NVIS and the possibly the ECCS relay.
When I search for issues using the workshop manual, I keep finding topics in this forum.. So I'm hoping a tech is reading this and can point me in the right direction. I think the electronics are very similar in layout.
Just for orientation, the car is RHD, has a fuse panel in the right front kick panel, and the main ECU in the left front kick panel. There is a fuse box in the engine bay that includes a number of relays. There is one relay near the ecu and two relays near the kickpanel fuse box.
The car has a nismo ECU, not the stock ECU.
The red factory immobilizer light flashes with the key out (good) but goes solid red with the key in.. (bad). I can start the car, however.
The whole NATS/NVIS circuit and block diagram seems to show really only one line from the nats module to the ECU, so I don't reallly see the downside of removing it completely? since both the nismo ecu and third party ECU can still run. Is NATS/NVIS ever present in a way that can do more than simply tellt the ECU "don't run"?
When I search for issues using the workshop manual, I keep finding topics in this forum.. So I'm hoping a tech is reading this and can point me in the right direction. I think the electronics are very similar in layout.
Just for orientation, the car is RHD, has a fuse panel in the right front kick panel, and the main ECU in the left front kick panel. There is a fuse box in the engine bay that includes a number of relays. There is one relay near the ecu and two relays near the kickpanel fuse box.
The car has a nismo ECU, not the stock ECU.
The red factory immobilizer light flashes with the key out (good) but goes solid red with the key in.. (bad). I can start the car, however.
The whole NATS/NVIS circuit and block diagram seems to show really only one line from the nats module to the ECU, so I don't reallly see the downside of removing it completely? since both the nismo ecu and third party ECU can still run. Is NATS/NVIS ever present in a way that can do more than simply tellt the ECU "don't run"?
11-26-2008, 06:16 PM
#7230
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
I have a 2000 skyline R34 and am having trouble with NATS/NVIS and the possibly the ECCS relay.
When I search for issues using the workshop manual, I keep finding topics in this forum.. So I'm hoping a tech is reading this and can point me in the right direction. I think the electronics are very similar in layout.
Just for orientation, the car is RHD, has a fuse panel in the right front kick panel, and the main ECU in the left front kick panel. There is a fuse box in the engine bay that includes a number of relays. There is one relay near the ecu and two relays near the kickpanel fuse box.
The car has a nismo ECU, not the stock ECU.
The red factory immobilizer light flashes with the key out (good) but goes solid red with the key in.. (bad). I can start the car, however.
The whole NATS/NVIS circuit and block diagram seems to show really only one line from the nats module to the ECU, so I don't reallly see the downside of removing it completely? since both the nismo ecu and third party ECU can still run. Is NATS/NVIS ever present in a way that can do more than simply tellt the ECU "don't run"?
When I search for issues using the workshop manual, I keep finding topics in this forum.. So I'm hoping a tech is reading this and can point me in the right direction. I think the electronics are very similar in layout.
Just for orientation, the car is RHD, has a fuse panel in the right front kick panel, and the main ECU in the left front kick panel. There is a fuse box in the engine bay that includes a number of relays. There is one relay near the ecu and two relays near the kickpanel fuse box.
The car has a nismo ECU, not the stock ECU.
The red factory immobilizer light flashes with the key out (good) but goes solid red with the key in.. (bad). I can start the car, however.
The whole NATS/NVIS circuit and block diagram seems to show really only one line from the nats module to the ECU, so I don't reallly see the downside of removing it completely? since both the nismo ecu and third party ECU can still run. Is NATS/NVIS ever present in a way that can do more than simply tellt the ECU "don't run"?
I can't help ya much on this one since you got a different ECU. You would have to do some wire splicing I'm guessing, but that's easy enough. Can you get your hands on a ConsultII machine?
11-27-2008, 12:03 PM
#7231
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2
I think you should give me your car....and I will make all the frustration disappear.....
I can't help ya much on this one since you got a different ECU. You would have to do some wire splicing I'm guessing, but that's easy enough. Can you get your hands on a ConsultII machine?
I can't help ya much on this one since you got a different ECU. You would have to do some wire splicing I'm guessing, but that's easy enough. Can you get your hands on a ConsultII machine?
It looks like the third party alarm (Clifford G5) installer took the immobilizer out of the loop..
I also found the ECCS relay as expected behind the ECU and it loses all power the moment the key is turned off. So, again, the alarm is to blame.
Losing power this way doesn't hurt the stock ECU but it causes problems for a popular plug-in ecu.
11-27-2008, 12:15 PM
#7232
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wappingers Falls, NY
Posts: 133
coilovers
Hey im new to this and im not to sure how to use these forums. But i have an 01 Maxima SE and im looking to buy coilovers for them but dont want to spend and insane amount of money. Does anyone know where i can get them for a reasonable price? Or is anyone selling used ones?
11-27-2008, 05:05 PM
#7233
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
Hey im new to this and im not to sure how to use these forums. But i have an 01 Maxima SE and im looking to buy coilovers for them but dont want to spend and insane amount of money. Does anyone know where i can get them for a reasonable price? Or is anyone selling used ones?
Post your questions regarding this here:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...s-benefit.html
Plenty of reading in that thread.
11-28-2008, 03:35 PM
#7234
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
MAF ??
I just want to know what happen to you car when your MAF is dirty? I just wanna know if mine need to be clean. I have a little with my acceleration and i think that the MAF is the problem. Because when i buy the car ( like 2 month ago) the air filter was really dirty. Thank you for answering my thread!!
11-28-2008, 03:55 PM
#7235
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Wappingers Falls, NY
Posts: 133
Hey!
Post your questions regarding this here:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...s-benefit.html
Plenty of reading in that thread.
Post your questions regarding this here:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...s-benefit.html
Plenty of reading in that thread.
11-28-2008, 10:45 PM
#7236
flasher relay location
On the 2003 max I need to change the flasher relay so i can use my leds. Anyone have a picture of where it is located? is it the little blue cube shaped box inside of the panel to the right of the steering wheel column? and it is three pin right?
thanks for your help
On the 2003 max I need to change the flasher relay so i can use my leds. Anyone have a picture of where it is located? is it the little blue cube shaped box inside of the panel to the right of the steering wheel column? and it is three pin right?
thanks for your help
11-29-2008, 03:15 PM
#7237
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 15
2000 maxima! I the tp sensor is set for the proper voltages for closed throttle (about .5 volt) & WOT (about 3.9 volt). The other connector on the tp sensor issues a signal for closed throttle (correctly) but it sends (incorrectly) a WOT signal continully from half opened throttle to totally open throttle. Is this WOT signal used by the computer? Should I replace the tp sensor? I can not adjust the sensor to put out correctly for WOT without driving the other signals out of range.
11-30-2008, 09:31 PM
#7238
Radio controls
Looked all over, but can't post, so...
Want to retrofit the radio controls onto a 2000 SE with Bose, auto climate. Module shows available from courtesyparts.com and wondered if anyone tried it.
Need to know if I need just the module, or is there extra wiring, change clock spring whatever that would make this impractical.
Thanks!
Want to retrofit the radio controls onto a 2000 SE with Bose, auto climate. Module shows available from courtesyparts.com and wondered if anyone tried it.
Need to know if I need just the module, or is there extra wiring, change clock spring whatever that would make this impractical.
Thanks!
12-01-2008, 12:59 AM
#7239
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 85
Oxygen Sensor Brand
Hey Fellaz,
No technical questions today, however what brand oxygen sensors are good for our cars? From the searches I conducted on the forum, LOTS of various brands were recommended. I want to narrow it down to 2 of the best brands?
What website is the OFFICIAL NGK that nissan uses for its parts. I don't want to get scammed by knock-offs, can someone verify these for me? On the first link, it confused me because it says its not NGK USA? HUHHHH??????
www.ngk.com or www.ngksparkplugs.com ????????
Also, www.oxygensensors.com was recommended however, all they offer is Walker brand. I think I'll pass on these ones, unless I hear otherwise cuz I never heard of them. Someone else posed this question a few posts above me so someone can maybe knock this question out for the both of us.
Thanks guys as always....
Bobby "Infiniti" Valentino
No technical questions today, however what brand oxygen sensors are good for our cars? From the searches I conducted on the forum, LOTS of various brands were recommended. I want to narrow it down to 2 of the best brands?
What website is the OFFICIAL NGK that nissan uses for its parts. I don't want to get scammed by knock-offs, can someone verify these for me? On the first link, it confused me because it says its not NGK USA? HUHHHH??????
www.ngk.com or www.ngksparkplugs.com ????????
Also, www.oxygensensors.com was recommended however, all they offer is Walker brand. I think I'll pass on these ones, unless I hear otherwise cuz I never heard of them. Someone else posed this question a few posts above me so someone can maybe knock this question out for the both of us.
Thanks guys as always....
Bobby "Infiniti" Valentino
12-01-2008, 08:00 AM
#7240
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 57
I just want to know what happen to you car when your MAF is dirty? I just wanna know if mine need to be clean. I have a little with my acceleration and i think that the MAF is the problem. Because when i buy the car ( like 2 month ago) the air filter was really dirty. Thank you for answering my thread!!
I would start from cleaning the MAF and new air filter. If your SES is on check for codes.
Also check for MAF related posts in this forum.