5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#7761
Ok, I've had my Max since October of last year and this problem has persisted throughout the winter. It doesn't appear to do it when the car is warm, and it is driving me nuts because I have no clue what could be causing it.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
#7762
Ok, I've had my Max since October of last year and this problem has persisted throughout the winter. It doesn't appear to do it when the car is warm, and it is driving me nuts because I have no clue what could be causing it.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
#7763
Nice! Now will the auto be able to handle the mods when it comes to increasing hp to increase performance times? Does anyone have any suggestions as to what mods I would be able to add to increase performance the best? Thanks
#7764
Only thing that concerns me about that diagnosis is why would it only do it when the motor is cold? Runs smooth as butter after the first few minutes.
#7765
The auto will handle anything the manual can take.
#7766
we're in the same boat.
if i had the ability to do, i would port my IM, get headers and other stuff thru the exhaust, intake, intake spacers.
NmexMAX has 242 wheelsHP, im sure he'll point you to the right direction in archiving those numbers.
#7767
My bro in-law has a 2001 max. He wants to buy a hid kit, and when i went to go look at the set up. Its different than the 4th gen. Ive installed a HID kit on a 4th. The bulb comes right out. How do u get the bulb out of the 5th gen?
#7768
U have to take the dustcap off, and squeeze the tabs on the left and right sides to release the bulb....Its MOST DEFINITELY A LOT EASIER if you take the light itself out
#7769
need some info
are tokico blues better than the stock struts on an 01 se in terms of comfort? I just need a smoother ride than my current stock setup.
What parts do i need to order if i want to change the whole setup minus the stock springs? What parts should be replaced when putting in new struts... mounts?
thanks in advance! (and someone plz reply cuz this is like my 5th post on the same subject lol)
What parts do i need to order if i want to change the whole setup minus the stock springs? What parts should be replaced when putting in new struts... mounts?
thanks in advance! (and someone plz reply cuz this is like my 5th post on the same subject lol)
#7770
are tokico blues better than the stock struts on an 01 se in terms of comfort? I just need a smoother ride than my current stock setup.
What parts do i need to order if i want to change the whole setup minus the stock springs? What parts should be replaced when putting in new struts... mounts?
thanks in advance! (and someone plz reply cuz this is like my 5th post on the same subject lol)
What parts do i need to order if i want to change the whole setup minus the stock springs? What parts should be replaced when putting in new struts... mounts?
thanks in advance! (and someone plz reply cuz this is like my 5th post on the same subject lol)
Suspension Upgrade Parts List:
1. Springs (comes with isolators*plastic piece at the bottom of spring*)
2. Struts
3. Strut Mounts
4. Strut Boots
5. Bottom right hand corner, i cant remember what it's called.
6. Tools *duh*
if i missed anything, somebody can jump in.
Click Here if you havent been there yet.
Hope that helps.
#7771
#7772
Suspension Upgrade Parts List:
1. Springs (comes with isolators*plastic piece at the bottom of spring*)
2. Struts
3. Strut Mounts
4. Strut Boots
5. Bottom right hand corner, i cant remember what it's called.
6. Tools *duh*
if i missed anything, somebody can jump in.
Click Here if you havent been there yet.
Hope that helps.
~~~~~~~~
another qs
i want to replace my trunk/gas release panel. Do i have to remove the entire door panel to install the new switch or can the trunk release panel be pried out easily w/o messing with the door panel..?
this is for and 01...
#7773
thanks! that was really helpful
~~~~~~~~
another qs
i want to replace my trunk/gas release panel. Do i have to remove the entire door panel to install the new switch or can the trunk release panel be pried out easily w/o messing with the door panel..?
this is for and 01...
~~~~~~~~
another qs
i want to replace my trunk/gas release panel. Do i have to remove the entire door panel to install the new switch or can the trunk release panel be pried out easily w/o messing with the door panel..?
this is for and 01...
must be my ESL
#7774
I changed the tire....
I am the vibration is gone a bit but not completely, and my car is still steering to the left when i go straight and let go, also when i hit bumps i have to keep a firm hold on my steering otherwise it goes back and forth.
Any other suggestions?
#7776
Start pulling the door panel out. You may break some plastic fasteners, but Autozone sells them cheap. Once you got the door separated, carefully pull the panel up and out, and reach behind and disconnect the wire harnesses.
#7777
Thumping noise from front right side when steering left
I am getting a thumping noise that seems to be coming from the front passenger wheel area when I am steering left. There is no noise when turned all the way to the left, just with regular lefty steering. The noise stops when I straighten out or start steering to the right. I am taking my car in tomorrow to get it checked out but anyone know what this might be? There are no other symptoms. She is running great otherwise. Thanks.
#7778
2000 SE plenum torque spec
Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the gasket between the plenum and intake manifold on my 2000 SE. What a joy Wondering if anyone could help me out with the torque spec for the plenum. The bolts are stamped 12. Also, is the torque spec the same for the nuts on the guide pins?
I have a 2000 sevice manual CD that I bought form someone on here a few years ago. Went to use it for the first time today and it is not working
Thanks much
Rakso
2000 SE 135K miles
I am in the process of replacing the gasket between the plenum and intake manifold on my 2000 SE. What a joy Wondering if anyone could help me out with the torque spec for the plenum. The bolts are stamped 12. Also, is the torque spec the same for the nuts on the guide pins?
I have a 2000 sevice manual CD that I bought form someone on here a few years ago. Went to use it for the first time today and it is not working
Thanks much
Rakso
2000 SE 135K miles
#7779
hi guys , sorry for the noob question but im looking at 02-03 maxs ...im looking at the SE but alot of GLE are popping up ...i want a fully loaded one...only difference i can see if different gauge color ,wheels and sometimes spoiler .....is the ride different ? if i can buy a GLE and be happy i will start looking at them ....thanks guys
#7780
hi guys , sorry for the noob question but im looking at 02-03 maxs ...im looking at the SE but alot of GLE are popping up ...i want a fully loaded one...only difference i can see if different gauge color ,wheels and sometimes spoiler .....is the ride different ? if i can buy a GLE and be happy i will start looking at them ....thanks guys
Click here for GLE
#7781
I am getting a thumping noise that seems to be coming from the front passenger wheel area when I am steering left. There is no noise when turned all the way to the left, just with regular lefty steering. The noise stops when I straighten out or start steering to the right. I am taking my car in tomorrow to get it checked out but anyone know what this might be? There are no other symptoms. She is running great otherwise. Thanks.
#7782
2000 Maxima With Codes 420 and 430
My car is pullng codes 420 and 430 which is something to do with a catylist in both banks. I have no clue what this means hoping someone ele has had these codes or knows where i should go from here. Thanks in Advance
#7783
Anybody with the same problem?
Hey guys im new hear and looking for some advice..My car is having some misfire issues. I took it to autozone and had them run a diagnostic or whatever and the code that was thrown was the p1320 or the ignition primary code. The person I had bought it from had also had found this problem but I told him if he came down on the price a little i would pay to have it fixed myself. Bad idea. When accelerating at a high rate the engine just cuts out at around anywhere from 3500 to 4500 rpms. A mechanic told me it was a misfire on the number six cylinder and suggested that it might be a bad fuel injector. When I checked on the internet most of the people I came across with the same code thrown were all saying Ignition coil. This is a 2000 model so most of you probably know that in order to service a fuel injector on this model, you have to remove the upper air intake plenum which is very time consuming, and expensive if you have it done by someone else. I didnt want to spend a lot of money to find out that this fuel injector wasnt the problem because not only is the labor mush harder to perform and much more time consuming, but the part is significantly more expensive too. So, I took a look at a repair manual I had for the 5th gen to find the engines firing order and where which cylinders are located to find the corresponding coil. I replaced this coil with no luck. I aslo tried rotating the coil between all three of the front ignition coils. I dont want to take the risk of replacing a fuel injector just to find out that the problem still persists. Can anyone tell me what my next step should be? I also replaced all spark plugs. Should I replace ALL of the ignition coils? I'm lost and very short on cash and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
#7784
I am also having this same problem. My engines also throwing a p1320 code which many have been saying is an ignition coil. Are you also having this problem? My engine cuts out around 3 and 4 thousand rpms when i accelerate hard. Are you having the same issues?
#7785
Ok, I've had my Max since October of last year and this problem has persisted throughout the winter. It doesn't appear to do it when the car is warm, and it is driving me nuts because I have no clue what could be causing it.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
The problem happens on a cold start. Anytime the motor is cold and the car has been sitting for a few hours, when I crank it up and drive maybe a quarter-mile..the car gets a VIOLENT shake. I'm talking it feels like the front end of the car is going to drive out from under the car and leave me stranded as it continues onward. I have noticed sometimes that the car is a bit difficult to get into gear, so I am wondering if it's a clutch issue. But I can't see it being a clutch issue when it really only happens on a cold start and especially during cold weather. It never does it after the car warms up. To stop the violent shake, I have to press the clutch in or let off the gas completely..if I stay on the gas and don't press the clutch it just bucks and shakes like it's going to fall apart.
Please tell me you guys have some idea what in the world could be wrong with this thing. I love the car, but I hate this issue.
#7786
why do you ask twice? do you have issues with your computer too besides your car?
#7788
Starting noise
When I start my car the starter makes a weird noise like its trying too hard. The reason I think its the starter is because I had a fourth generation that the starter had went bad in and when I replaced it in that one, the NEW starter made this same noise. I crashed the 4th gen before I could ever fully investigate the problem and now that I bought a 5th gen its making the same noise. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Someone please help
#7789
#7790
Hey guys im new hear and looking for some advice..My car is having some misfire issues. I took it to autozone and had them run a diagnostic or whatever and the code that was thrown was the p1320 or the ignition primary code. The person I had bought it from had also had found this problem but I told him if he came down on the price a little i would pay to have it fixed myself. Bad idea. When accelerating at a high rate the engine just cuts out at around anywhere from 3500 to 4500 rpms. A mechanic told me it was a misfire on the number six cylinder and suggested that it might be a bad fuel injector. When I checked on the internet most of the people I came across with the same code thrown were all saying Ignition coil. This is a 2000 model so most of you probably know that in order to service a fuel injector on this model, you have to remove the upper air intake plenum which is very time consuming, and expensive if you have it done by someone else. I didnt want to spend a lot of money to find out that this fuel injector wasnt the problem because not only is the labor mush harder to perform and much more time consuming, but the part is significantly more expensive too. So, I took a look at a repair manual I had for the 5th gen to find the engines firing order and where which cylinders are located to find the corresponding coil. I replaced this coil with no luck. I aslo tried rotating the coil between all three of the front ignition coils. I dont want to take the risk of replacing a fuel injector just to find out that the problem still persists. Can anyone tell me what my next step should be? I also replaced all spark plugs. Should I replace ALL of the ignition coils? I'm lost and very short on cash and any advice would be greatly appreciated.
There are many threads they that you can read that will give you more information.
Last edited by Teddie18; 03-02-2009 at 08:13 PM.
#7791
i have a problem. I just put my car in the shop to have the clutch replaces. i bought a spec stage 1 clutch and fidanza flywheel. my mechanic installed them but now when first coming out of first gear the car shakes really hard and also when down shifting. Not to mention that the timing is all off now. I've looked at other threads posting similar problems but have bot found the info I need to figure out what is causing the severe vibration starting out in first gear. Any insight would be helpful. Thank you!
Last edited by karma00; 02-23-2009 at 08:22 PM. Reason: adding pic
#7792
Ya theres a lot of hesitation around three and a half to four and a half thousand rpms. I learned from a earlier forum that sometimes your computer will store another code with the p1320 indicating which cylinder is misfiring. When I bought the car it had a misfire and the mechanic indicated that it was the number six cylinder. I went back over some of the old codes I had ran and found a p302 or something (indicating the SECOND cylinder had a misfire) so I have the sneeking suspicion that I have more than one bad, or its a totally different problem. The mechanic suggested that it was a fuel injector but I hope he was wrong
#7793
Bad MPG
Got an '03 with 112k miles, gets 22mpg. I commute mainly highway, mostly drive the speed limit, gently accelerate from stops, regular oil changes with synthetic, tires at 32psi, new air filter. WTF am I doing wrong to get such bad mileage?!
#7794
Front: I would go with 6.5" with tweeters but make sure they are components w/tweeters of course.
Rear: I would also go with 6.5" and have them be 4-ways, once again get something with a tweeter.
For both the front and rear speakers youre going to need some self tapping metal screws because the speakers that are stock (even the bose ones) are 5.25" I believe so the holes will not be in the correct place for a 6.5" speaker
Subs: Cutting through the rear deck is not my idea of the best way to add a sub, I'd go with two tens in a custom box in the trunk to maxamize trunk space available to you.
Rear: I would also go with 6.5" and have them be 4-ways, once again get something with a tweeter.
For both the front and rear speakers youre going to need some self tapping metal screws because the speakers that are stock (even the bose ones) are 5.25" I believe so the holes will not be in the correct place for a 6.5" speaker
Subs: Cutting through the rear deck is not my idea of the best way to add a sub, I'd go with two tens in a custom box in the trunk to maxamize trunk space available to you.
Thanks.
I guess that means that I do have tweeters now? Just wondering if I'm going to need to run new wires or if I can reuse the existing - guess it really doesn't matter, it's better to just run new stuff.
Haven't seen too much info on the non-bose systems, so I wasn't exactly sure what I had or what would fit.
Was hoping 6.5" would fit and figured they would, but I've seen both sizes listed. Figured it was like my truck (5.25" listed, but 6.5" fit just fine....with new screw holes).
Guess I will have to measure the trunk to see what I can do. I have a box with 3 10" from my last build, but also have a dual 10" box laying around.
It's been about 12 years since I've really done any system work. I hate taking apart the interior and the Max interior is too nice to worry about messing up. I might just decide to take it some place and let them install.
#7795
When you figure it out, you let me know!
02 with 78k - had it since new (Dec 01) and have never really gotten anything close to advertised mileage! The best I've ever gotten has been 25 mpg during a 1k road trip. Other than that I average 20-22.
#7796
Nope. No check engine light, no misfire, no nothing. It pulls HARD like it should once it has warmed up, but that initial issue causes me some concern. I'm thinking it just about has to be something with the clutch judging by the way it feels.
#7797
oil change, tire pressure and air filter dont add up very much.
aerodynamic alone plays a big role in fuel consumption.
cars are just like us, even with Gatorade or water(oil change), Nike Air high-end shoes(tire pressure), and air quality(air filter) we still need more to perform our best such as nutritions... you see where im getting at?
#7798
remove junks you dont need in your car.
oil change, tire pressure and air filter dont add up very much.
aerodynamic alone plays a big role in fuel consumption.
cars are just like us, even with Gatorade or water(oil change), Nike Air high-end shoes(tire pressure), and air quality(air filter) we still need more to perform our best such as nutritions... you see where im getting at?
oil change, tire pressure and air filter dont add up very much.
aerodynamic alone plays a big role in fuel consumption.
cars are just like us, even with Gatorade or water(oil change), Nike Air high-end shoes(tire pressure), and air quality(air filter) we still need more to perform our best such as nutritions... you see where im getting at?
#7799
Is it normal
is it normal for the tranny to shake a little when going from park to Reverse? I park at a slight incline (around 10 degrees).
I also experience rough shifts and slight vibrations on the gas pedal......mounts going bad or what?
I also experience rough shifts and slight vibrations on the gas pedal......mounts going bad or what?
#7800
Not sure what could be causing the rough shifts and the vibrations.
Last edited by Nelsito65; 02-25-2009 at 05:53 AM.