5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
#8161
I have a problem: I'm trying to replace my swaybar endlinks with Moog-branded versions. The problem is that I can't jack the car up enough to get the wheels off. Am I missing something? I'm using a Duralast 2 ton jack (Autozone). CAn I use spacers to give me more high, and if so, what would that spacer be?
#8162
I have a problem: I'm trying to replace my swaybar endlinks with Moog-branded versions. The problem is that I can't jack the car up enough to get the wheels off. Am I missing something? I'm using a Duralast 2 ton jack (Autozone). CAn I use spacers to give me more high, and if so, what would that spacer be?
What point are you using to jack from?
#8163
HI, just did this exact same thing yesterday. Replaced inner and outer tie rod and replaced the strut. but on the drivers side. When you tilt the steering knuckle (part that the tie rod is attached to) upward to begin to line it up with the strut is it letting you go up all the way to where the holes in the knuckle are at the same height as the two holes in the strut? If not I just got down on one knee and raised the control arm with my other knee to lift it to line up with the height of the two holes in the strut. or you could just lift it up with a 2x4 stud on the ground and lifting up the Lower control arm. also if your other wheel is on the ground I'm not sure, but it would be harder to turn the steering knuckle side to side with the tie rod still attached to the steering knuckle. easiest thing would be to have both wheels off the ground and not on ramps. Also I noticed on mine, that the actual strut will rotate a bit as well as flex also. So between the give in the strut and the give in the steering knuckle you should be able to line them up with maybe a little bit of leverage from underneath the control arm. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tip.. also complicating matters is the wheel turned outward, like if the car was making a right turn. I can not seem to straighten out the wheel ***. to go straight to mount the new strut? any ideas?
#8164
I'm using the jack point between the wheels. I know if I did each side individually I can get the wheels off (had to put on the spare a couple times) but then I won't be able to put the jack stands in place.
#8165
I have a problem: I'm trying to replace my swaybar endlinks with Moog-branded versions. The problem is that I can't jack the car up enough to get the wheels off. Am I missing something? I'm using a Duralast 2 ton jack (Autozone). CAn I use spacers to give me more high, and if so, what would that spacer be?
#8167
With some force you should be able to move it back into place. Checked the axle?
#8168
yeah I have one last idea. you said both your wheels are off the ground and not inhibited by anything, I noticed from your picture you didn't take the tie rod off the wheel assemby/steering knuckle, which is not a problem, but have you checked to see if your steering wheel is locked and maybe that's why you're not able to turn the wheel assembly ? I honestly can't think of anything else.
#8169
Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.
#8170
I just did this yesterday as well, used the factory jack set it on top of a 4x4 post layed down so I can have an extra 4 inches. and I lowered my jackstands as low as they can go, and I was able to raise one side with the factory jack, slide the jack stand under one side of the unifram. and then move to the other side and repeat.
#8171
As in you're jacking the car up from underneath the B-pillar? Don't do that.
Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.
Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.
The point in the middle, I found in the FSM.
#8172
Yes, you do each side individually. If you want to jack up the whole front end at once, just use the jacking point on the crossmember.
#8173
I just did this yesterday as well, used the factory jack set it on top of a 4x4 post layed down so I can have an extra 4 inches. and I lowered my jackstands as low as they can go, and I was able to raise one side with the factory jack, slide the jack stand under one side of the unifram. and then move to the other side and repeat.
#8174
#8175
The circled part is where I was lifting:
#8176
yeah I have one last idea. you said both your wheels are off the ground and not inhibited by anything, I noticed from your picture you didn't take the tie rod off the wheel assemby/steering knuckle, which is not a problem, but have you checked to see if your steering wheel is locked and maybe that's why you're not able to turn the wheel assembly ? I honestly can't think of anything else.
#8177
#8178
The thing is using the crossmember as a lift point, I can jack the car high enough to take the wheels off but once the car is lowered onto my stands there's not enough clearance to take them off. I'm wondering if it's safe to just jack it up at the crossmember, take the wheels off, then lower it onto the stands. Or would the left/right "bowl"s just be a safer option?
#8179
Oh sorry, just be a terminology mixup. I guess I now will refer to that point as the "crossmember" as opposed to the "point between the wheels".
The thing is using the crossmember as a lift point, I can jack the car high enough to take the wheels off but once the car is lowered onto my stands there's not enough clearance to take them off. I'm wondering if it's safe to just jack it up at the crossmember, take the wheels off, then lower it onto the stands. Or would the left/right "bowl"s just be a safer option?
The thing is using the crossmember as a lift point, I can jack the car high enough to take the wheels off but once the car is lowered onto my stands there's not enough clearance to take them off. I'm wondering if it's safe to just jack it up at the crossmember, take the wheels off, then lower it onto the stands. Or would the left/right "bowl"s just be a safer option?
The crossmember supports the engine, and holds two of the motor mounts. The pinch weld runs along the side of the vehicle on both sides, and that's where the factory jacking points are.
#8180
Lift at the crossmember (e.g., behind the radiator), take wheel off, lower onto stands at the pinch-welds (under the front doors).
#8181
ok, well, with the steering wheel locked you won't be able to turn the wheel assembly because it is connected to the steering through the tie-rod. so just put your key in, and unlock the steering wheel so you can turn your wheels by hand. That should do it.
#8182
As in you're jacking the car up from underneath the B-pillar? Don't do that.
Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.
Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.
#8183
#8186
more at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3310137
Last edited by rezinflux; 04-05-2009 at 01:24 PM.
#8187
Thanks, I'll try that out...except I'll feel more comfortable swapping the jack/jackstand locations...I think this is what pmohr was trying to describe but I wanted clarity before I did anything.
#8188
If your floor jack has a very small plate on top, you may want to place a solid piece of 2x4 on the plate so that it doesn't dent that spot where I've got my jack stand at. The larger your contact area the better the weight is distributed (less pressure per square inch). I just looked under the car and noticed that this was a fairly well reinforced portion. Besides, I've had my cars picked up by forklifts too many times to count and generally this is what the forks actually make contact with, this doesn't mean I actually agree with lifting a car up with forks but when you buy them from auctions you don't have much say in it.
#8189
Thanks pmohr & rezinflux, I can finally get started! To lift, I used this rounded metal connector that had two bolts on either side right in front of the frame (inside of the upside-down bowls) because as you stated, I did feel like I was denting the frame.
#8190
QUESTION
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
#8191
QUESTION
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
But to answer your first question, I think you're suppose to replace the whole valve cover with a 6th gen one.
#8192
QUESTION
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....
You need a new rear valve cover, as the plug tube seals are an integrated piece.
Unless the oil has somehow seeped into the plug, they'll all be fine. The only real area that can easily be damaged by oil is the electrode end, even then they could be cleaned.
Just look at them, if they look fine then you should be good.
Rear valve cover:
13264-7Y000, $44.48 each at Courtesy.
Comes with a new PCV valve and gasket. IIRC it's slightly cheaper through Dave B, and would likely be shipped quicker as well.
#8194
Squealing/Grinding Noise When Turning Left--FIXED
HI, just did this exact same thing yesterday. Replaced inner and outer tie rod and replaced the strut. but on the drivers side. When you tilt the steering knuckle (part that the tie rod is attached to) upward to begin to line it up with the strut is it letting you go up all the way to where the holes in the knuckle are at the same height as the two holes in the strut? If not I just got down on one knee and raised the control arm with my other knee to lift it to line up with the height of the two holes in the strut. or you could just lift it up with a 2x4 stud on the ground and lifting up the Lower control arm. also if your other wheel is on the ground I'm not sure, but it would be harder to turn the steering knuckle side to side with the tie rod still attached to the steering knuckle. easiest thing would be to have both wheels off the ground and not on ramps. Also I noticed on mine, that the actual strut will rotate a bit as well as flex also. So between the give in the strut and the give in the steering knuckle you should be able to line them up with maybe a little bit of leverage from underneath the control arm. Hope this helps.
#8195
I only agreed to the service on the basis of his recommendation and reference to the code. Without any supporting evidence that the 1320 code was actually found or that any tests confirmed "weak coils," I am now pretty sure that I will complain and refuse to proceed with the work. Thanks for the input...does seem to be a recommendation without foundation.
#8196
Hey guys I was thinking of replacing my Bose Headunit with a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT in my 2000 Max. It has 4V pre-amp voltage, and after searching the A/V sub-forum I'm confused between two adapters to use if I'm using the stock Bose speakers and amp: the Metra 70-7551 and the PAC ROEM-NIS2. Will the volume be too low with only 4V pre-outs and the 70-7551 adapter? Can someone select the better of the two in this application?
Also, I wanted to use the GXE kit to install the headunit, but I've read about fitment issues and the presence of a gap. Will this work on a 2000 Max, and is there a way to fill the gap besides using ABS plastic?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I wanted to use the GXE kit to install the headunit, but I've read about fitment issues and the presence of a gap. Will this work on a 2000 Max, and is there a way to fill the gap besides using ABS plastic?
Thanks in advance.
#8197
Hey guys I was thinking of replacing my Bose Headunit with a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT in my 2000 Max. It has 4V pre-amp voltage, and after searching the A/V sub-forum I'm confused between two adapters to use if I'm using the stock Bose speakers and amp: the Metra 70-7551 and the PAC ROEM-NIS2. Will the volume be too low with only 4V pre-outs and the 70-7551 adapter? Can someone select the better of the two in this application?
Also, I wanted to use the GXE kit to install the headunit, but I've read about fitment issues and the presence of a gap. Will this work on a 2000 Max, and is there a way to fill the gap besides using ABS plastic?
Thanks in advance.
Also, I wanted to use the GXE kit to install the headunit, but I've read about fitment issues and the presence of a gap. Will this work on a 2000 Max, and is there a way to fill the gap besides using ABS plastic?
Thanks in advance.
In regards to the fitment issue, there is a gap around the AVIC between it and the GXE trim piece. The reason why is because the AVIC trim piece piece is too big; it won't fit inside the opening of the GXE. There is also a problem with fitment at the bottom of the GXE where it mates up against the HVAC controls. It doesn't clip together well at the bottom, causing a gap.
To eliminate the gap around the AVIC I carefully cut down and then filed down the sides of the AVIC trim piece so that it fit through and flush with the opening of the GXE trim piece.
Procedure
1. Tape a piece of paper to the front of GXE unit and from the inside trace the size of the opening of the GXE onto the paper.
2. Tape the tracing to the AIVC trim piece that goes around the AVIC headunit, making sure that the tracing is centered on the trim piece.
3. Using a utility or exacto knife, trace/etch the outside dimension of the tracing onto the AVIC trim piece.
4. Cut away and file down the sides of the trim piece until it fits inside and flush with the face of the GXE unit. File lightly when you get close to the etched line because as soon as you go beyond the etched line you're toast.
5. Once the filing and sanding was done I attached the trim piece to the GXE unit with epoxy.
Now you have a custom fit piece that eliminates the big gap and is as pretty close to factory fitment as you're going to get anywhere.
#8199
#8200