Mikeb120

Hey - how do i replace the rear side marker bulbs? I did a search on the site and could not find anything. I went to autozone and they were out of the haynes manual...
I would love to get a quick lesson.. :-)

i tried getting to the bulb from both the inside and outside but I just could not get it...

Thanks in advance!!

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

You gotta pop it out with a screwdriver w/ a rag around it... and stick it in the more pointed side and pop it out, then you can access the bulb.

GigEmAgs07

anyone have a write-up on how to change the clock color on a 2k max? I found a write-up for the 4th gen, but our clocks are in a completely different place. How do you remove the clock?

KidHauler

I really like the Winter GAB setup that Irish44j runs. (saw it on his home page on the bottom half of page 3). I searched but can't find a How-to for it and, as a newbie, I can't PM him. OSCAI links in the how to section are dead. So, I have two questions:

1. Is there a how-to for this type of GAB?
2. How much would you expect to pay for an intake air filter holder from a junk yard / new?

Thanks in advance...

XyNoix-HIC

I too am looking for a how-to to change the color of the clock

naiveshopper

I am a student in market for a car. I test drove a 01 Maxima SE (loaded with leather seats, premiun sound and sunroof)... The engine had the "Service engine soon" indicator on..., which the dealer (not a nissan but a generic used car dealer) said will fix it.. It has 97K miles on it and I am getting a decent deal ($8K).. I wanted the expert opinion of should I be worried aboutthe service engine soon or take it.. any suggestions/ opinions will be greeatly appreciated..

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

If you're referring to this one pictured below, all you have to do is get a boring drill bit that is slightly narrower than the little slots on the filter holder top and drill the holes. I got little plastic plugs from the hardware aisle in home depot, in the little drawers near the screws/nails. Get the plugs (they are white plastic) and find a bit that is the same size, and then drill away! Or, to do the conventional GAB, all you need to do is cut off the front edge of the holder (the part where I drilled holes instead).

You could probably get the holder from a junkyard for a few bucks if you can find one.

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

The color of the clock can simply be changed to white by putting a single peice of red cellophane over the clock panel.

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Pull up and out. That's it. There is a single spade connector which will need to be disconnected once it's up and out.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

if you are trying to change it to white, here's what you do:
1. pull clock assembly out...just pull up on it, it will pop out
2. take screws on back out to take out the clock itself
3. open clock up (little tabs on sides)
4. get some RED cellophane from a crafts store to turn it white (or blue if you want to turn the clock blue).
5. cut a little piece of cellophane the size of the clock face
6. put it between the LCD display and the tinted clock face
7. put everything back together.

done.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

SES light can be caused by pretty much anything from a loose fuel tank cap to a bad 02 sensor to bad coils. Have the dealer pull the code with an OBD scanner while you stand there. Write down the code and then look it up in the FAQ/How-to stickies up at the top of this forum. Then you will know what it is and we can help you from there and provide advice.

DO NOT let them just "clear the code" without proof they fixed the problem....it will come back eventually and they may not warranty the problem.

$8k is not a bad deal for a car with that mileage in decent condition. I still owe that much on my '00 and it has 10K more miles.

A few other suggestions:
1. take the engine cover off and check to see if the coils have a "dot" on them. If not, chances are they are the original coils and one or more may be bad.
2. if it has Bridgestone Potenza RE92 tires on it, make them either replace them or knock $500 off the price so you can replace them. Those things are DANGEROUS!
3. Drive it an listen closely for bad wheel bearings. At that mileage, it is not uncommon for the maxima's front bearing(s) to go bad.
4. Have an independent mechanic check everything out, unless the dealer is offering a warranty.

naiveshopper

Thanks irish44j for the detailed response... Its given me confidence... I spoke to the dealer and he mentioned that he has placed an order for O2 sensors to be replaced.... I think he diagonised this was the problem... but I was not there to see the diagnosis... I plan to get it checked by an independent mechanic and see how it goes.. I will also keep in mind all your suggestions.... Will report back with the findings in a day or 2...

KidHauler

Thanks Irish . What type of adhesive did you use to glue the plugs onto the holder?

vman09

does any one know what a problem code 0440 is?

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

It is EVAP related.

There is a link to the listing of codes here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=374481

vman09

Thanks for the quick response. I try to search but I get a page that says I do not have permision to search. I read alot of threads about code 0420 or similar but i have not seen 0440. so i was curious if anyone had the same code what cured it. I thought maybee a bad seal on the gas cap but i replaced that less than a year ago. did a visual inspection of the vacume system and did'nt see any thing obvious. also, I just replaced maf about a month ago & k&N filter but did not do ECM reprogram. maybe I am getting false code. car runs great after maf replaced.

Jfree

When I bought my 01 maxima, it had 235/45/17 series tires on it. I recently went back to the recommended size tires for the Max and now I have some problems.
1. Now when I go over speed bumps, I hear a popping type sound on both side of the car at the wheels.
2. When I turn the wheel right and have to stop, say a yield sign, when i turn and straighten the wheel I hear the same pop/thud sound. Mostly during shifting during the turn and straightning out the wheel.

Axles, Suspension? Any help is greatly appreciated. And I dont see any rips in the boots or hear a clicking noise while driving.

rowen93se

iTrader: (2)

does anyone know if there is any major modifications needed when replacing mechanical seats w/ power seats in a 00

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

You should have the harnesses just sitting below the seat. They may be tucked underneath of the carpet...just feel around for them. after that...just plug and play!

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

not glued...they have little tabs on them, so if you drill the hole the correct size they'll just click right in and can be popped out with a flathead screwdriver.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

that doesn't sound tire-related. Did the noise appear immediately after replacing the tires? Did they do any other work on the car?

Check a couple of things:
1. make sure the lug nuts are torqued to spec!!!! also make sure the wheel is seated on the hub center bore.
2. check that the spring is seated correctly on the lower perch.
3. make sure the brake line is attached correctly to the strut

Clarifying questions:
a) noise - have someone drive your car in a parking lot slowly and stand near it and see if you can pinpoint where in the suspension the sound is (top, bottom)
b) are your wheels stock wheels or aftermarket?
c) what else in the suspension is aftermarket, if anything?

Jfree

Everything is stock. I will try all that you listed and I only had the tires put on, no other work and this started after the tires were put on. Thx for the help!

cflemm

I just bought a 2001 Maxima a week ago, and a few days in I noticed my left daytime running light was not working. High beams and Low beams work fine, but the left daytime running light does not work. I replaced the bulb then had somebody look at it and either the previous owner or the dealer seems to have tried to fix the problem by running a wire from the right headlight and splicing it into the wire for the left headlight, which only ended up dimming the right headlight and not helping at all. Shady stuff....anyways what could the real problem be? I have no idea how they "safetied" this car like this.

rowen93se

iTrader: (2)

on the topic of replacing mechanical seats with power, is the harness for the heated seat buttons in there or is that a pain to wire?

GigEmAgs07

another quick ? before i take my clock out. The security light blinks when the car is off. Can i just go ahead and disconnect the clock unit anyway? I don't wanna get a CEL cause of this.

Plus i don't want my alarm to go off if when i disconnect it. Any potential problems if i just unhook the connector?

Canepole

Does any1 know the model number of the front driver/passenger light? Wanted to replace it with a LED.

Can you post some Pics of the clock with the white face?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

no, it's just a light. Nothing will happen if you unplug it.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

here you go...you can see it at the top of this pic

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

IIRC the harness is in there. Just take off your shift boot and you might be able to see....the wiring runs right next to the shifter.

Canepole

Good look on the pic.
Still trying to find the bulb number for the driver/pasenger light.
-Not the dome light.

Merlyn

iTrader: (4)

Alright, I beileve I have multiple problems but really don't know what they are and would rather do the work myself if I could.

It started off where when I would be coming to a stop there was a clanking noise under my engine. Found it this was the heatshield which wraps itself around the entire exhaust.

Now, I have sounds through all stages of driving

no matter whether I am on a warm start, cold start, been driving for a while, or just started, I hear a buzz whenever I start to accelerate, it is a buzzing sound that comes from what I would guess is the left front wheel well.

With that gone, whenever I turn I hear a buzz / scretching noise coming from my wheel well (can't pin point) as well

It has gotten the point where my car is a musical instrument through all stages of driving. I do drive hard, that is why I purchased a maxima, no mods have been done to it at all. it sits at 62xxx miles, 02. I really am just trying to determine the problems to see what can be done. Don't have the time to take it to the shop, and really don't have the money, so was hoping to try to work myself, or if anyone lives in Maryland that is willing to lend a helping hand, that as well. Sorry if this question has been asked before, but really, I beileve this is multiple problems that all just share similar characterists.

Canepole

Merlyn
Is it in the wheel well, or under the hood?

Rydicule

Alright, my brother's '01 maxima is having a stalling issue. He pushes in the clutch and the Tachometer drop so low that sometimes the car stalls. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? It first started happening after he switched out his bose HU and had left the battery unplugged for a while. We assumed at first it was a computer issue, seeing as how it was reset. The problem did go away after a week or two, but some months down the road, it has started stalling again. Perhaps a throttle body needs cleaning?

madcheeku

I had the p0171 and p0172 codes sometime back and replaced the MAF myself. The MAF came with a note that the ECM should to be updated but I didn't do it since I had read of others not needing it.

About a week later the check engine light came back on and the codes are

P0138 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1)
P0139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1)

Could this be due to the ECM not been updated? Should I update the ECM or change the o2 sensor?

The autozone person when checking the codes took out the check engine light and it hasn't come back since the last couple of days.

Thanks
(ps I had also posted this in one of the old MAF threads but I think this might be a better place to get some help.)

Ritz

iTrader: (2)

Hey all. I'm new here. I'm looking to buy a 2003 Maxima 6 Speed in the next week or so, and was hoping I could find some help on any issues I should look for when shopping around. Thanks for any info.

ahallmaxima

OK, I posted this on the MAF thread but maybe it wasn't the right place, because I didn't get much response...I've got a 2000 GLE, original owner, with 78K miles on it. For a while now it's been pinging just after starting. It probably does have a bit less power than when I bought it. I had some bad coils (P1320) but replaced two of them and haven't had any of those codes since, so I think I got them all.

But now I get intermittent P133 and P153 codes, at the same time. BOTH O2 sensors slow response? As my local mechanic pointed out, it seems unlikely that both O2 sensors would fail at the same time. I get the codes always on the highway, maybe after a while doing 70MPH on the freeway, perhaps once in a 150 mile trip. I can clear the codes with my code reader or they will go away in a few days of city driving. Last week I took several road trips and got this pair codes, always together, three separate times.

Any idea what could be causing this? My local mechanic hooked up his computer to the car and said the knock sensor and the O2 sensors were all checking out OK. His idea was to change the sparkplugs but reading through the forum, no one seems to report much improvement with changing the plugs early (aren't they good for 106K Miles?) MAF? I've never had a MAF code.

Succinct

NewB, 1st post. Thanks for having this thread.

I don't yet own a Maxima but have decided to find a 2002 or 2003 SE 6-speed with LSD. I have 1999 BMW 540 6-speed that is quite beautiful & fast, but is also quite expensive to maintain, especially now that I'm at the 130K point. I've put nearly $6K into it in the 22 months I've owned it, and only about $1000 of that was mods or elective. I've learned 1st hand that BMW = "Break My Wallet", so altho it's awesome to drive, I gotta get rid of it.

So I am looking for something hopefully close in luxury & performance to my 540, for about the $14K to $15K my 540's worth, but I'd like it to be more like my erstwhile '94 Legend GS 6-speed in reliability, which was basically trouble-free even after I sold it at 189K miles. That's why I've settled on the 5th-gen 02-03 6-speed.

Is there anything else I should look for in my shopping? Common failure areas other than oil consumption? Am I targeting the right model Max to purchase? Theft if HID lamps would not be an issue where I live or work.

My only previous Nissan was a 1982 pick-up that I drove to 217K miles and was running great when I sold it. I'm 44 and have owned about two dozen cars and like to spin wrenches. I have a lot of Honda, Ford, GM, and of course BMW E39 knowledge, but not much Nissan Know-How. Yet.

Thanks again for your help!

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

honestly (and I know I'm going to get hammered for this), stay away from nissan if you want trouble-free. Nissan parts are just as expensive as BMW parts. In the last month alone, I've spent around $500 on various parts that needed to be fixed and/or replaced. If you want cheap reliability, get a toyota or honda.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

check a few things:
1. that the upper strut nut is tightened to torque
2. that all suspension nuts/bolts are tight
3. stand outside the car when you just start it up and try to pinpoint the sound with the hood up.

It could also be the upper strut bearing, but you'd have to take the spring/strut assembly apart to check that.

If you live in MD, check the DC forum - there are alot of us in the DC area who get together occasionally to work on stuff.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

not many issues you can really check, aside from the fact that the car drives well with no misfires, odd noises, etc.

Some things to notice when test-driving:
- listen for noisy wheel bearings, particularly up front....
- if it has Potenza RE92 tires on it, insist they change some different tires on. Those are DANGEROUS
- if they'll let you take the engine cover off, look at the coils and see if they have a gray dot on them. If so, you're good. If not, tell them you want the "updated" coils.
- check the exhaust flange where the muffler attaches to the b-pipe. Notorious for rusting.

If buying from a dealer, spend the extra $1K and buy the 100,000 extended Nissan Gold warranty. It will pay for itself if you're under 50K miles on the car.

Other than that, just browse the first few pages inthe 5th gen forum and see what problems seem to be more widespread than others.