thanks pmohr

 

PMOHR,

The instructions aren't that clear and the pictures only show a picture of the MAF not any step-by-step picture scenario or anything so kind of confusing and even the guy who wrote the small bit of confusing instructions notes that everything is a " pain " to do.
Also I don't understand how this could work, if the the ~$100 MAF was not designed to have that piece of transistor in there how is it possible that I can take the transistor thing from my current MAF and put it in the ~$100 MAF, won't it NOT have connections for it because it's not designed to have one?
or are you saying that weird Nissan made the ~$100 MAF with the proper connections for the transistor but didn't put on on there in case smart Maxima forums people wanted to save money? very confusing

 

The two MAFs are identical other than the actual thermistor itself. The contacts, leads, and pins are all there from the factory.

Why they did it like this?

 

Thanks PMOHR, you've been extremely helpful and will probably save me hundreds of dollars on my MAF...now if only you could save me hundreds of dollars on my care insurance.

 

I just followed the MAF cleaning steps written up in this forum using the CRC Cleaner, etc. and it didn't really do anything.
I thought I'd try this in the middle of the night so that I'd feel better in the morning when I go and get the new MAF but I'm still confused because it didn't even make it a little better...
Since the MAF cleaning didn't do anything does that mean replacing the MAF won't do anything either? Or is MAF Cleaning mostly BS and if the MAF doesn't perform well MAF cleaning won't do jack?

 

The MAF cleaning would only have a positive effect if the MAF was dirty. If the MAF is blown, which yours may be (and likely is), you'll need to replace it.

 

Thanks Progress.

 

planning on doing some seafoam treatment soon.....qs is..
is it safe to drive ~ 50 miles (highway speeds) with seafoam in the engine?

 

somebody help me.

i came across new brake pads and rotor brake-in instructions long time ago and now i cant find it, anybody has it??

thanks

 

http://www.shiftice.com/brake_install.html

 

Do you mean bedding in instructions?

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

 

How are you applying the Seafoam? Are you putting it in via the brake booster vacuum hose? If so, the Seafoam gets burned up well before you drive 50 miles. Use the instructions on the can. Also, use it on the same day you change your oil and change your oil right after you use it (especially if you put it in your crankcase).

 

thanks, but i was looking for something like his

thanks, that's what i was looking for.

 

my mechanic is 50 miles from where i live. I'm planning on putting some seafoam in the fuel tank and the engine...drive to his place....and do the break booster part over their. After that i'll get an oil change and replace the pvc valve..

 

I had a problem with my car dieing, threw up a code for the EGR. Turns out it was just missing a ground That fixed the light, but following what I read in the site I checked my MAF by cleaning it and the bogging and dieing stopped. As soon as I was ready to leave the Autostore lot, it threw the light again. The mechanic tried to play it off as the MAF but it looked fine and I just cleaned so I told him, "I just got my car back from the mechanic with no lights, I cleaned the MAF sensor to stop the power loss, and now I have a light... I want you to check it."

When he did, he turned up a P0505 code and that's the IACV, and it gave clues on what could be causing it but I dont know what to do. I marked out these:

1). Large Vacumn leak
2). blocked intake manifold or exhaust
3).thottle body damage
4). engine mechanical condition

I just got it back from the mechanic and it wasn't throwing any lights before, now after cleaning the MAF it has more power and now it throws up the light, WTF?

 

I think you'll be okay. If you're really concerned, you can pull over when you're closer to your mechanic and put it in then.

Just so you know, the brake booster method is not difficult.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...stimonial.html

 

whats the difference in the two rims shown? They both look like my rims.

 

try posting the pics

 

The finish. The stock SE wheels are a matte type finish, the TE wheels are shinier and have a bit of a different color, gunmetal like IIRC.

 

I must have the TE. Thanks, now I know what to look for before getting another one.

 

Since we are moving over the old transistor to the new MAF won't that be a bad thing for the transistor? I mean, don't we need to also replace the transistor? Can't the transistor wear out and mess up the car's performance too? and we're basically moving the old one over like it's useless?

 

Again, thermistor, not transistor.

It has nothing to do with the airflow reading, it's just for IAT. No need to replace it, being a single solid state component there is very little chance of failure unless you abuse it.

What do you mean moving the old one over 'like it's useless'?

 

This is getting annoying.

During the winter, I got stuck in 2nd gear once. After reading a thread and people were saying the handbrake was probably stuck, so i didnt worry about it too much. After that one time, it went away.

Now it's spring time, i got stuck in 2nd gear 4 times in 48 hours(2 today, 2 yesterday), for sure its not the handbrake, because i just service all my brakes yesterday.

Does this mean i have to get the transgo kit?

I have my "A/T CHECK" light flashing about 16 times at every start up after i install my DD JVC deck. It's been flashing like this since August of last year and now im getting worried, i gotta do something to save my tranny and i need some help.

thanks.

 

Wow, that font size and color is just...annoying.

Have you not checked ECU or trans codes yet? The light is flashing for a reason...

 

sorry about the font size and color.

no not yet.

i have OBD2 and scanned it and theres nothing in the ECU

Is there a way to get the trans code myself? or do i have to go to the dealer? is there a list of the trans code definitions?

 

Check AT-51 in the '02 FSM, it shows you how to check the TCM codes yourself.

 

it doesnt work when the key is at ACC so i had to use the SHIFT LOCK trick to move thru the gears.

it's not flashing now, i dont know why.

in AT-52 step 3, number 4. i didnt see the light flashing on and off

i dont know, im gonna keep my eyes on the light and 2nd being stuck.

and i have no idea what AT-54-56 is talking about...

 

I do not own a Max but a friend of mine does and is having a strange clicking noise coming from the car when he backs it out of his driveway on a slight incline. He says on a flat parking lot in reverse there is no such noise.

If you ride the brake and reverse in the driveway it does not click.

In drive it runs just fine.

I head out after work Monday to check it out.

What do you think it is?

Could the rear brake rotors be warped badly and hitting the brake pads when he is off the brakes but when he is on the brake the pad pushes enough on the rotors to not "jump" and make noise?

He is not sure where the noise is coming from in the car.

 

" like its useless " as in treating it like it's not as important as the MAF because if it were important we'd put a new thermistor with the MAF instead of bringing the old one in, but your comments kind of answer things but...

what do you mean by " abuse ", when I moved it over to the new MAF the wires got bent here and there and who knows if i bumped into the small chippy thing here and there.
Can the car's performance be affected by this little tiny thing being messed up or used up?
Can I replace the little thermistor and gain some advantage, etc...?
All I'm saying is it seems like we're putting a great amount of focus on the MAF but ignoring the IAT?

 

"A/T CHECK" still flashing and i could not get the "A/T CHECK" to flash in order to get the codes.

 

Hey whats up guys i have a supercharged 2000 maxima running on stock 3.6 pulley so i think thats 6psi im not to sure but here are my question
I want to change the pulley and up my boost but not to much maybe 10psi what kind of pulley should i get and is there any major modification i will have to do to my motor to keep up?
I also have a carbon fiber hood the oem look and i want hood pins for added security because of crazy theft in nyc for maxima parts especially brooklyn? ( i park on the street.....bummed out )
What kind of maf i should get cause i been reading alot of the forums and everyone has a z32 not to sure maf where can i get it and how much?
I want to change my spark plugs but not to sure what to get.....NGK i heard is good any ideas?
I have the ap racing four piston brakes up front.... what kind of brake pads are recommeded for these......links?
Is there any one in the nyc area in which i can link up and learn more about the maxima and who can guide me lol on my project ?

if possible guys help me thanx pm if u know anything ......pictures will be coming soon but i blew my tranny 5sp....anyone got that for sale

 

i just recently bought an 02 Maxima and there was a little damage to the rear bumper, i knew this prior to purchasing. can anybody tell me what the broken piece is called and where i can go to get it? i've seen a few people with the clear versions, where could i get those? also any instructions on how to take this apart? do i need to take the bumper off?

 

It's the side marker.

You can get clear corners on eBay.

You didn't search, did you?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...demarkers.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-question.html
etc.

 

I need the PR intake template. Ive found some for the 4th gens(THE TEMPLATE) and not sure if it will work on the 5th gen.(can someone confirm) Ive found the instructions on the install process and it shows where the template goes but not an actual full size pic where i can copy and print out my own. Where can I find one? I bought the intake used and asked the seller of it but he doesnt have it either, and Im not gonna just cut into the car.

 

Are you trying to fit a 4th gen intake on a 5th gen?

 

nope. came off of an 01 max like mine.

 

yes... i'm a newbie here...but have read through ALOT of various threads to help diagnise my probs. that said...things have changed in the last 12 hours, lol>>> any and all help is welcome !!!

will layout the events in description as they have unfolded over last couple of days ...

2001 maxima se 144k miles... other than normal wear and tear replacements/maintenance over the years, nothing major to speak in regards to break-downs ...

2 days ago ... car operating fine, mid-aftrnoon-warm weather car died/stalled when idling at a stoplight, had to double pedal the brake and gas to keep running. 30 min. later problem gone.

1 day ago ... same thing again, but this time in the morning, cool weather ... BUT, this time it actually did while driving UP a highway on ramp at approx. 15 mph(i had to let off gas to merge into traffic) ... car died when i let off. problem went away... re-emerged later in same day, idling at light. went away again.

today ... car wouldnt start this morning, acted like battery dead, yet, lights/radio, and all auxilliary functions worked. would slowly turn over, after 3-4 attempts, dead...nothing. 7 minutes later it started and warmed right up, no probs. after a 20 mile drive, started stalling again at low idle, had to double pedal it home again.

here is where it gets really weird ... as soon as i got home and turned vehicle off, i decided to take it to autozone and get their free diag test. again ... car wouldnt start, every indication its battery oriented. 3 hours later it fired right up (still had to double pedal to keep it running, though)
drove to autozone... showed the IACV was out (as i expected somewhat after reading this thread)... had him check out battery, its fine, but a little loose on the positive side terminal. tightened it up, car started fine. went and got some gas, car started fine.... came home, turned it off, tried to restart..and NOTHING. cleaned the posts and terminals, even tried jump starting ... still NOTHING.

guy at garage said it sounds like the terminals on the positive side could be corroded down into the "multi-terminal" portion (3 cables into one, with a fuse).... also said i shoud take off the IACV and spray down with B12 chemtool since its already showing up as "bad", said it couldnt hurt, and in his experience has fixed the prob sometime.

the IACV stuff makes sense to me... but whats the deal with the "electrical" starting issues...and why did it start happening directly/indirectly with the idle issue??

sorry this was so long...just wanted to make sure you had all info.

btw...i have relative that has worked at GM for 30 years, said absolutely no reason for me to be using higher octane gas...he has used the lower with no probs. so...my gullable money saving a** decided to start running the regular lowest grade gas (after using premium since i bought this car new in 2001) about 3 weeks ago... could this be a prob too??? mechanic said if no pinging then no prob...but also said "there is a reason the manufacturer tells you to run premium in this car!!"
i switched back to premium today...albiet the car wont start....

PLEASE HELP !!!!!!

thanks !!!!

 

I could be wrong but it sounds like both the battery and IACV were going out at the same time. Why don't you replace both and see what happens?

 

makes sense ...could be purely coincidental, maybe the need for constant restarts (due to the idle stalling) just contributed to a premature demise.

that said ... when checked on the meter at autozone the battery checked out fine. it was then that we noticed the positive side a tad bit loose and rusted/corroded. attributed the problem to that... but, that hasnt been the case. as i said...cleaned it all up... jump start didnt even work.

is ONLY the battery usually the prob when it wont jumpstart... or could be any connection between the battery and the engine, plus the battery? which is most likely considering it just started a little bit this morning, up til now where it wont do anything? it does have enough juice to kick the starter in ( i can hear it click once, then disengage) radio/lights/everything else works....

what about that??

on the IACV issue... i have been reading through threads here saying that if the IACV isnt replaced asap it could lead to ecu failure... mechanic said it could happen, but basically, he said "you'd have to drive it for months and months like that before that would happen" ... this true??

also .... what about his recommendation to spray/soak the old IACV down with b12 chemtool. he has known it to clean/unclog some in the past. i figured it a 3 dollar gamble, hehe ... aterall, if it is already bad, i cant hurt anything.
if cleaning it like that is an option (is it??), what precautions should i take if any??

sorry to sound so stupid...but, hey ... lol


thanks for the help !!!!

 

I seem to have the infamous suspension rattling noises on my 2000 se. I wanted to try to locate the problem this weekend. Can anyone give me some advice as to what area I should look at first.