I have a problem: I'm trying to replace my swaybar endlinks with Moog-branded versions. The problem is that I can't jack the car up enough to get the wheels off. Am I missing something? I'm using a Duralast 2 ton jack (Autozone). CAn I use spacers to give me more high, and if so, what would that spacer be?

What kind of reach does your jack have? Even the crappiest jacks I've used (and this includes the factory jack) can easily get the vehicle off the ground.

What point are you using to jack from?

Thanks for the tip.. also complicating matters is the wheel turned outward, like if the car was making a right turn. I can not seem to straighten out the wheel ***. to go straight to mount the new strut? any ideas?

I'm using the jack point between the wheels. I know if I did each side individually I can get the wheels off (had to put on the spare a couple times) but then I won't be able to put the jack stands in place.

this may sound too simple, but where exactly are you placing your jack that it wont go up high enough to raise the wheels off the ground? Why not try the jack that comes with the car, they're super easy to use and wont do any damage or put any dents in your underside.

Also, the jack's reach is 13.25".

Where the wheels straight when you took them off, or where they turned?

With some force you should be able to move it back into place. Checked the axle?

yeah I have one last idea. you said both your wheels are off the ground and not inhibited by anything, I noticed from your picture you didn't take the tie rod off the wheel assemby/steering knuckle, which is not a problem, but have you checked to see if your steering wheel is locked and maybe that's why you're not able to turn the wheel assembly ? I honestly can't think of anything else.

As in you're jacking the car up from underneath the B-pillar? Don't do that.

Look in the below picture, far right. There's a metal cup there (looks like an upside down bowl) where (IIRC) there's an LCA bolt. I jack up from there, gives you more of a lift since it's a lower point on the car. Then I use jackstands on the pinch welds.

I just did this yesterday as well, used the factory jack set it on top of a 4x4 post layed down so I can have an extra 4 inches. and I lowered my jackstands as low as they can go, and I was able to raise one side with the factory jack, slide the jack stand under one side of the unifram. and then move to the other side and repeat.

Okay so with that jack point I still do each side individually, right? Jack up at the "bowl" indicated, then put the stands under the usual jack point right under the front door?

The point in the middle, I found in the FSM.

What page/year of the FSM? I've never seen the FSM state to jack up in the middle of the vehicle.

Yes, you do each side individually. If you want to jack up the whole front end at once, just use the jacking point on the crossmember.

It's impossible for me to put the stands in place when either my floor jack or the factory jack is there. It's like the base of the stands take up all the room.

yeah, i made sure the wheels were straight before starting this little project...

GI-48 of the '02 I35 FSM.

The circled part is where I was lifting:

the ignition is completely in the off position, with the steering wheel locked... do i need to turn the igintion to the "on" position without turning the motor over?

Ah, okay. Those are the proper jack points, not the center of the car as you had said.

Oh sorry, just be a terminology mixup. I guess I now will refer to that point as the "crossmember" as opposed to the "point between the wheels".

The thing is using the crossmember as a lift point, I can jack the car high enough to take the wheels off but once the car is lowered onto my stands there's not enough clearance to take them off. I'm wondering if it's safe to just jack it up at the crossmember, take the wheels off, then lower it onto the stands. Or would the left/right "bowl"s just be a safer option?

Crossmember? Or pinch weld?

The crossmember supports the engine, and holds two of the motor mounts. The pinch weld runs along the side of the vehicle on both sides, and that's where the factory jacking points are.

Lift at the crossmember (e.g., behind the radiator), take wheel off, lower onto stands at the pinch-welds (under the front doors).

ok, well, with the steering wheel locked you won't be able to turn the wheel assembly because it is connected to the steering through the tie-rod. so just put your key in, and unlock the steering wheel so you can turn your wheels by hand. That should do it.

Is it okay to jack up from inside the upside-down bowl? The diameter of the bowl is larger than my floor jack's plate.

Anyone? Been trying to replace the endlinks for 5 hours and don't even have the wheels off yet!

I'll take a picture with how I jack my wheels off the ground...

Cool, that would be much appreciated. Jacking up is supposed to not even be an issue!

This may not be the recomended way to do it but it's how I do it. And I never had any issues with it. I've cut the car in half like that before resting on those floor reinforcements. If your jack stands aren't flat on top, and they have very little contact area, they may not be ideal. But this works great for me.


more at:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3310137

Thanks, I'll try that out...except I'll feel more comfortable swapping the jack/jackstand locations...I think this is what pmohr was trying to describe but I wanted clarity before I did anything.

If your floor jack has a very small plate on top, you may want to place a solid piece of 2x4 on the plate so that it doesn't dent that spot where I've got my jack stand at. The larger your contact area the better the weight is distributed (less pressure per square inch). I just looked under the car and noticed that this was a fairly well reinforced portion. Besides, I've had my cars picked up by forklifts too many times to count and generally this is what the forks actually make contact with, this doesn't mean I actually agree with lifting a car up with forks but when you buy them from auctions you don't have much say in it.

Thanks pmohr & rezinflux, I can finally get started! To lift, I used this rounded metal connector that had two bolts on either side right in front of the frame (inside of the upside-down bowls) because as you stated, I did feel like I was denting the frame.

QUESTION
changed my spark plugs and found that two of the 3 back coils had significant oil in them. I did research and found that it could be the valve cover... My only problem now is that i Don't know what i need to purchase to make the fix. Gasket .. seals? both. Any help is awesome.
also how long can someone run with oil in coil chamber and would i have to replace my sparkplugs again or will they still work after fix.
IN a sum
I need parts/ Part numbers...
How long will i last without fix....
Would recently changed plugs still work....

I would also like to know the answer to the second part of your question about long lasting effects.

But to answer your first question, I think you're suppose to replace the whole valve cover with a 6th gen one.

Did you search at all?

You need a new rear valve cover, as the plug tube seals are an integrated piece.

Unless the oil has somehow seeped into the plug, they'll all be fine. The only real area that can easily be damaged by oil is the electrode end, even then they could be cleaned.

Just look at them, if they look fine then you should be good.

Rear valve cover:
13264-7Y000, $44.48 each at Courtesy.

Comes with a new PCV valve and gasket. IIRC it's slightly cheaper through Dave B, and would likely be shipped quicker as well.

I had the same problem 2000 maxima, mileage around 69,000--needed to repair 4 cylindar coils...

Turns out the plate behind the brakes was bent a little too far back. Thanks for all your help!

I only agreed to the service on the basis of his recommendation and reference to the code. Without any supporting evidence that the 1320 code was actually found or that any tests confirmed "weak coils," I am now pretty sure that I will complain and refuse to proceed with the work. Thanks for the input...does seem to be a recommendation without foundation.

Hey guys I was thinking of replacing my Bose Headunit with a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT in my 2000 Max. It has 4V pre-amp voltage, and after searching the A/V sub-forum I'm confused between two adapters to use if I'm using the stock Bose speakers and amp: the Metra 70-7551 and the PAC ROEM-NIS2. Will the volume be too low with only 4V pre-outs and the 70-7551 adapter? Can someone select the better of the two in this application?

Also, I wanted to use the GXE kit to install the headunit, but I've read about fitment issues and the presence of a gap. Will this work on a 2000 Max, and is there a way to fill the gap besides using ABS plastic?

Thanks in advance.

I know with the PAC ROEM-NIS2 you can attenuate (adjust) the electrical flow to the speakers. So you can adjust the overall volume. I used one when I installed my AVIC D2 and it works just fine.

In regards to the fitment issue, there is a gap around the AVIC between it and the GXE trim piece. The reason why is because the AVIC trim piece piece is too big; it won't fit inside the opening of the GXE. There is also a problem with fitment at the bottom of the GXE where it mates up against the HVAC controls. It doesn't clip together well at the bottom, causing a gap.

To eliminate the gap around the AVIC I carefully cut down and then filed down the sides of the AVIC trim piece so that it fit through and flush with the opening of the GXE trim piece.

Procedure
1. Tape a piece of paper to the front of GXE unit and from the inside trace the size of the opening of the GXE onto the paper.
2. Tape the tracing to the AIVC trim piece that goes around the AVIC headunit, making sure that the tracing is centered on the trim piece.
3. Using a utility or exacto knife, trace/etch the outside dimension of the tracing onto the AVIC trim piece.
4. Cut away and file down the sides of the trim piece until it fits inside and flush with the face of the GXE unit. File lightly when you get close to the etched line because as soon as you go beyond the etched line you're toast.
5. Once the filing and sanding was done I attached the trim piece to the GXE unit with epoxy.
Now you have a custom fit piece that eliminates the big gap and is as pretty close to factory fitment as you're going to get anywhere.

Anyone have a picture of where the knock sensor is & a write-up on replacing it for a 2003 Maxima? Thanks.

IIRC you can't get to it from under the LIM on the 5.5, so you'll probably have to remove the UIM/LIM and do it the proper way.

Thanks pmohr.

but what is LIM and UIM? IIRC?