5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
02-09-2009, 06:47 AM
#7681
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9
That's not testing it as was said above. Run B+ and ground to it, and see if the damn thing even works before figuring out why it won't work correctly when installed.
but how do i run a B+ and ground it .
sry about all the trouble
thank you
02-09-2009, 06:48 AM
#7682
02-09-2009, 07:02 AM
#7683
Or contact the seller for any more help with their item.Their are more reputable companies that sell this stuff and In my opinion thats kinda cheap for an HID kit.
Last edited by memphisballer; 02-09-2009 at 07:11 AM.
02-09-2009, 10:32 AM
#7684
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 2
Thanks in advance for responses and help.
I drive a 2001 Maxima 20th An Ed with about 145,000mi. Was running pretty good till this weekend. Below you can see a brief description of the problem and what I've researched so far.
I was preparing to enter on to the highway but as I made my start from the stop light I heard a pop come in front of me which a few seconds later had a strange smell. I originally thought maybe a fuse but am also concerned that it would be a belt (not so concerned about belts now though)
So I decided to forgo getting on the highway and pulled off to a side street. This is when I noticed that the idling was off. When in park or neutral the engine wants to stay reved up. While in drive with my foot on the break the car feels like it wants to go. While driving at about 40mph I can take my foot off the gas, it loses power for a second but then revs back up and will stay at constant speed without me applying my foot. After about 10 minutes of driving like this the service engine came on. The car made it home which was about a 25 mile ride.
Took the car to Autozone and we came up with code P0505. Shows could be the following:
1. engine vaccume leak
2. idle air control motor or idle air control valve
3. dirty throttle body
4. check connector and wiring.
After some research online I believe I've located where the Idle Air Control Valve is. Looks to be under the throttle body. Cant really see to well since it's underneath.
Online I have been reading that in addition to the 4 concerns listed about that this could possibly be a bad ECM/ECU. It also seems common that many repair shops start with replacing the idle cotrol valve and later find that that it was actually the ECM/ECU. Or sometimes they even replace the ECM/ECU when really it was only the valve.
Here's my questions:
1. Is there a way I can diagnose this myself? (not mechanicly inclined but willing to try)
2. If not, is there a way that a mechanic will be able to tell if it's the ECM/ECU without having to replace the idle air control valve (or vise versa)?
2. If the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced does anyone know of someone online or stores online that would work with the model I drive?
3. The dealers tell me a ECU is a $900 part but I've seen some used selling for around $250. The dealer tells me that the Nissan manufacturing part # is 2371M-5Y016. I'm trying to cross reference this # with the part desciptions associated with the online store. However, I'm finding this may not be the way to correctly match the parts. For example...online I see many stores with codes such as A56-P39, 10363Y1000, "3.0L,AT,V6,A56-Q79-Z A0,0Y29,3T". Other online stores just describe as "Ecm, maxima, auto trans, all, w/traction control".
Does anyone know the correct part # I should be looking for? (with traction control)
4. The dealer says the replacement of the ECM/ECU is not complicated. From your experience is this something that I would be able to do?
5. I've read that if the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced that my "idle will need to be reset" and that my key will need to be reset. Each has another labor charge. One dealer seconded what I read online while another dealer says "no" I wouldnt need to reset those. Anyone know?
I realize that this was a lot of info and questions but wanted to make sure my details were sufficient for anyone willing to help or point me in the right direction.
Thank you again for all those who have read.
Ben
I drive a 2001 Maxima 20th An Ed with about 145,000mi. Was running pretty good till this weekend. Below you can see a brief description of the problem and what I've researched so far.
I was preparing to enter on to the highway but as I made my start from the stop light I heard a pop come in front of me which a few seconds later had a strange smell. I originally thought maybe a fuse but am also concerned that it would be a belt (not so concerned about belts now though)
So I decided to forgo getting on the highway and pulled off to a side street. This is when I noticed that the idling was off. When in park or neutral the engine wants to stay reved up. While in drive with my foot on the break the car feels like it wants to go. While driving at about 40mph I can take my foot off the gas, it loses power for a second but then revs back up and will stay at constant speed without me applying my foot. After about 10 minutes of driving like this the service engine came on. The car made it home which was about a 25 mile ride.
Took the car to Autozone and we came up with code P0505. Shows could be the following:
1. engine vaccume leak
2. idle air control motor or idle air control valve
3. dirty throttle body
4. check connector and wiring.
After some research online I believe I've located where the Idle Air Control Valve is. Looks to be under the throttle body. Cant really see to well since it's underneath.
Online I have been reading that in addition to the 4 concerns listed about that this could possibly be a bad ECM/ECU. It also seems common that many repair shops start with replacing the idle cotrol valve and later find that that it was actually the ECM/ECU. Or sometimes they even replace the ECM/ECU when really it was only the valve.
Here's my questions:
1. Is there a way I can diagnose this myself? (not mechanicly inclined but willing to try)
2. If not, is there a way that a mechanic will be able to tell if it's the ECM/ECU without having to replace the idle air control valve (or vise versa)?
2. If the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced does anyone know of someone online or stores online that would work with the model I drive?
3. The dealers tell me a ECU is a $900 part but I've seen some used selling for around $250. The dealer tells me that the Nissan manufacturing part # is 2371M-5Y016. I'm trying to cross reference this # with the part desciptions associated with the online store. However, I'm finding this may not be the way to correctly match the parts. For example...online I see many stores with codes such as A56-P39, 10363Y1000, "3.0L,AT,V6,A56-Q79-Z A0,0Y29,3T". Other online stores just describe as "Ecm, maxima, auto trans, all, w/traction control".
Does anyone know the correct part # I should be looking for? (with traction control)
4. The dealer says the replacement of the ECM/ECU is not complicated. From your experience is this something that I would be able to do?
5. I've read that if the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced that my "idle will need to be reset" and that my key will need to be reset. Each has another labor charge. One dealer seconded what I read online while another dealer says "no" I wouldnt need to reset those. Anyone know?
I realize that this was a lot of info and questions but wanted to make sure my details were sufficient for anyone willing to help or point me in the right direction.
Thank you again for all those who have read.
Ben
02-09-2009, 02:32 PM
#7685
service AT
is it time to service my Automatic transmission? I have an 01 SE with 62K miles on it. Im the new owner and not sure if the previous owners ever serviced the AT. The fluid is dark redish. I feel slight vibrations on my foot when i accelerate from dead stop (ie first and possible the second gear). THe transmission feels a bit slow b/w first and second gear change as well... THe car runs great though...its just that slight vibration on the first gear is whats bugging me out.
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
02-09-2009, 02:33 PM
#7686
is it time to service my Automatic transmission? I have an 01 SE with 62K miles on it. Im the new owner and not sure if the previous owners ever serviced the AT. The fluid is dark redish. I feel slight vibrations on my foot when i accelerate from dead stop (ie first and possible the second gear). THe transmission feels a bit slow b/w first and second gear change as well... THe car runs great though...its just that slight vibration on the first gear is whats bugging me out.
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
02-09-2009, 02:40 PM
#7687
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
yo guys im a total newb with a 5th generation maxima and would be really happy if a couple of you guys could just gimme a couple parts to buy and install that woyuld increase acceleration and horsepower you know? just to give my car some more oomphf! nothin thats gonna make my car liek a track car cuz this is everyday use but would just like more power, thanks guys
02-09-2009, 02:44 PM
#7688
yo guys im a total newb with a 5th generation maxima and would be really happy if a couple of you guys could just gimme a couple parts to buy and install that woyuld increase acceleration and horsepower you know? just to give my car some more oomphf! nothin thats gonna make my car liek a track car cuz this is everyday use but would just like more power, thanks guys
Search will show you all of your options, including reviews and personal opinions.
02-09-2009, 02:47 PM
#7689
I had my wsp y installed a few weeks back and every since then i get this ricey rattle sound coming from the car when I get on the gas. I took it today to an exhaust shop and asked them to look for an exhaust leak since I thought thats what it was. Well they say there isnt any and all they tell me is that I need a need cat converter becasue it smells like rotten eggs. But Im planning on installing a glasspack to see if that cuts down on the drone and rattle. Could that be all that i need? I have a y pipe, flowmaster 40 series and no resonator.
02-09-2009, 02:49 PM
#7690
I had my wsp y installed a few weeks back and every since then i get this ricey rattle sound coming from the car when I get on the gas. I took it today to an exhaust shop and asked them to look for an exhaust leak since I thought thats what it was. Well they say there isnt any and all they tell me is that I need a need cat converter becasue it smells like rotten eggs. But Im planning on installing a glasspack to see if that cuts down on the drone and rattle. Could that be all that i need? I have a y pipe, flowmaster 40 series and no resonator.
Replace the flex section, get a new Y, or live with it, really.
02-09-2009, 04:05 PM
#7691
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3
Hey guys - new here.
I did a search before hand, so forgive me if this was somewhere obvious and I overlooked it.
First of all, I have a 2002 Maxima with the 3.5 V6. I bought it with 123k miles on it as a trade in at a dealer. The carfax showed that it had been regularly serviced at the dealer by both previous owners. I'm pretty handy with a wrench and familiar with cars and this one seemed good to go during the look over and test drive. The car was exceptionally clean and smooth running, so I had no reservations.
I did notice one thing after about a month of driving though, which is what you all seem to refer to as "shock shift". Now, I might have noticed this had I gone wide open throttle during the test drive, but I didn't.
This is on the 1-2 shift, and usually when starting from a stand still going up hill, or pressing the gas a little heavier to take off and going to 3-3.5k RPM's or so, it seems a bit slow to get into 2nd. Sometimes when it does, it's rather "rough".
Also, at wide open throttle, it seems to hang for a second or two before dropping into 2nd gear @ ~4k RPM's or so, and kind of hang there for awhile. Never slips out of gear during the acceleration - it pulls surprisingly hard in fact. The 2-3 shift is fine, as is the 3-4.
The transmission fluid is pretty pink, and doesn't smell burnt or anything. For all I know, they changed it at the dealer before putting it out on the lot for sale. Now, I know 123k miles isn't exactly a "low mileage" vehicle, but from my research it seemed like the drivetrain, and the 3.5 in particular, is very good and should last me quite some time. I don't abuse the car, it's my daily driver and gets 75% highway mileage on a 33 mile rount trip commute daily.
Can anyone give me some input? Thanks!
I did a search before hand, so forgive me if this was somewhere obvious and I overlooked it.
First of all, I have a 2002 Maxima with the 3.5 V6. I bought it with 123k miles on it as a trade in at a dealer. The carfax showed that it had been regularly serviced at the dealer by both previous owners. I'm pretty handy with a wrench and familiar with cars and this one seemed good to go during the look over and test drive. The car was exceptionally clean and smooth running, so I had no reservations.
I did notice one thing after about a month of driving though, which is what you all seem to refer to as "shock shift". Now, I might have noticed this had I gone wide open throttle during the test drive, but I didn't.
This is on the 1-2 shift, and usually when starting from a stand still going up hill, or pressing the gas a little heavier to take off and going to 3-3.5k RPM's or so, it seems a bit slow to get into 2nd. Sometimes when it does, it's rather "rough".
Also, at wide open throttle, it seems to hang for a second or two before dropping into 2nd gear @ ~4k RPM's or so, and kind of hang there for awhile. Never slips out of gear during the acceleration - it pulls surprisingly hard in fact. The 2-3 shift is fine, as is the 3-4.
The transmission fluid is pretty pink, and doesn't smell burnt or anything. For all I know, they changed it at the dealer before putting it out on the lot for sale. Now, I know 123k miles isn't exactly a "low mileage" vehicle, but from my research it seemed like the drivetrain, and the 3.5 in particular, is very good and should last me quite some time. I don't abuse the car, it's my daily driver and gets 75% highway mileage on a 33 mile rount trip commute daily.
Can anyone give me some input? Thanks!
02-09-2009, 04:36 PM
#7692
02-09-2009, 04:40 PM
#7693
No, didn't think so.
Just because the Y is new, doesn't mean it won't get that noise.
Is it a physical metal type rattling, or does it sound like some sort of reverberation or exhaust gas related sound? If physical (notice the if, that's called conditional), have you checked for loose components that may be rattling around?
02-09-2009, 07:01 PM
#7694
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: northern DE
Posts: 1
ok i searched, but couldn't find anything, no search results were coming up? on my 02 nav unit/ climate control, one of the buttons is jammed (the defrost button), and the one above it to direct air through which vents broke off. dealer says you have to replace whole unit at $3k+
anyone have other alternatives or a quick fix?
thanks
anyone have other alternatives or a quick fix?
thanks
02-09-2009, 07:46 PM
#7695
ok i searched, but couldn't find anything, no search results were coming up? on my 02 nav unit/ climate control, one of the buttons is jammed (the defrost button), and the one above it to direct air through which vents broke off. dealer says you have to replace whole unit at $3k+
anyone have other alternatives or a quick fix?
thanks
anyone have other alternatives or a quick fix?
thanks
I did a search using www.car-parts.com. I'm from Toronto, Ontario and the nearest one i could find was in Quebec. they were willing to ship it for$300, so definetley a good price. so maybe check out that website and you may find one!! its a great search engine for wreckers and you can search with all sorts of criteria including proximity to yourself.
hope that helps ya!!!
02-09-2009, 07:50 PM
#7696
No wonder everyone rides the org, everyone gets so upset over the internet, why?
(rhetorical,btw) Ill take your expert advice and "live with it" Thanks! 
(rhetorical,btw) Ill take your expert advice and "live with it" Thanks! In the midst of your reply, did you happen to notice that the 'search' was conditional?
No, didn't think so.
Just because the Y is new, doesn't mean it won't get that noise.
Is it a physical metal type rattling, or does it sound like some sort of reverberation or exhaust gas related sound? If physical (notice the if, that's called conditional), have you checked for loose components that may be rattling around?
No, didn't think so.
Just because the Y is new, doesn't mean it won't get that noise.
Is it a physical metal type rattling, or does it sound like some sort of reverberation or exhaust gas related sound? If physical (notice the if, that's called conditional), have you checked for loose components that may be rattling around?
02-10-2009, 10:38 AM
#7697
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 2
Idrive a 2001 Maxima 20th An Ed with about 145,000mi. Was running pretty good till this weekend. Below you can see a brief description of the problem and what I've researched so far.
I was preparing to enter on to the highway but as I made my start from the stop light I heard a pop come in front of me which a few seconds later had a strange smell. I originally thought maybe a fuse but am also concerned that it would be a belt (not so concerned about belts now though)
So I decided to forgo getting on the highway and pulled off to a side street. This is when I noticed that the idling was off. When in park or neutral the engine wants to stay reved up. While in drive with my foot on the break the car feels like it wants to go. While driving at about 40mph I can take my foot off the gas, it loses power for a second but then revs back up and will stay at constant speed without me applying my foot. After about 10 minutes of driving like this the service engine came on. The car made it home which was about a 25 mile ride.
Took the car to Autozone and we came up with code P0505. Shows could be the following:
1. engine vaccume leak
2. idle air control motor or idle air control valve
3. dirty throttle body
4. check connector and wiring.
After some research online I believe I've located where the Idle Air Control Valve is. Looks to be under the throttle body. Cant really see to well since it's underneath.
Online I have been reading that in addition to the 4 concerns listed about that this could possibly be a bad ECM/ECU. It also seems common that many repair shops start with replacing the idle cotrol valve and later find that that it was actually the ECM/ECU. Or sometimes they even replace the ECM/ECU when really it was only the valve.
Here's my questions:
1. Is there a way I can diagnose this myself? (not mechanicly inclined but willing to try)
2. If not, is there a way that a mechanic will be able to tell if it's the ECM/ECU without having to replace the idle air control valve (or vise versa)?
2. If the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced does anyone know of someone online or stores online that would work with the model I drive?
3. The dealers tell me a ECU is a $900 part but I've seen some used selling for around $250. The dealer tells me that the Nissan manufacturing part # is 2371M-5Y016. I'm trying to cross reference this # with the part desciptions associated with the online store. However, I'm finding this may not be the way to correctly match the parts. For example...online I see many stores with codes such as A56-P39, 10363Y1000, "3.0L,AT,V6,A56-Q79-Z A0,0Y29,3T". Other online stores just describe as "Ecm, maxima, auto trans, all, w/traction control".
Does anyone know the correct part # I should be looking for? (with traction control)
4. The dealer says the replacement of the ECM/ECU is not complicated. From your experience is this something that I would be able to do?
5. I've read that if the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced that my "idle will need to be reset" and that my key will need to be reset. Each has another labor charge. One dealer seconded what I read online while another dealer says "no" I wouldnt need to reset those. Anyone know?
I realize that this was a lot of info and questions but wanted to make sure my details were sufficient for anyone willing to help or point me in the right direction.
Thank you again for all those who have read.
Ben
Did some more research and I'm certain I'll need a new IACV and ECU. It doesnt appear that anyone has been successful in just replacing the IACV. So I'll be taking my Maxima to the dealer today for a $99 diagnostic. (is that really necessary? probably not, but better get it)
Autozone has $200 IACV. I've found several links to replacing the IACV. Although not mechanically inclined, it seems relatively easy. Guess I should also clean the throttle body while there.
As far as the used ECU/ECM, I'm having trouble finding the right one. Most people are saying that as long as the replacement has Auto w/ Tranaction Control I should be ok. While others are saying that there is a service code located on the old ECU/ECM that I should try matching. So I'm going to ask the dealership to write down that code when they do their diagnostic today. This should help when tracking down a replacement.
I've called several salvage yards around St. Louis and it seems most of them are tied into Car-part.com. So they're coming up with nothing available just as I seen online from Car-part.com for this area. I guess I'll have to expand my search a little farther out of the midwest.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get a used ECU for the 2001 AE Maxima? Local would be great but I understand how scarce these can be? Any other websites I should be looking at for finding this? It would be great if someone knows where a used car like this is sitting waiting for me. I'll do some more research online myself looking for additional sources to find this but am short on time so thought I would ask the board.
After finding the ECU/ECM I plan to have the dealership install this rather than doing it my self. They charge $100 to install, $99 to reset the idele, and $50 for the key reset. Does that all seem reasonable? Do you think that I should just install it myself in their parking lot so that I dont have to get towed or pay for installation?
Any thoughts or feedback on my plan of action would be greatly welcomed.
thanks
Ben
02-10-2009, 12:31 PM
#7698
is it time to service my Automatic transmission? I have an 01 SE with 62K miles on it. Im the new owner and not sure if the previous owners ever serviced the AT. The fluid is dark redish. I feel slight vibrations on my foot when i accelerate from dead stop (ie first and possible the second gear). THe transmission feels a bit slow b/w first and second gear change as well... THe car runs great though...its just that slight vibration on the first gear is whats bugging me out.
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
would the service open up a can of worms or is it going to be helpful?
thanks in advance..
Last edited by memphisballer; 02-10-2009 at 12:44 PM.
02-10-2009, 06:56 PM
#7699
another noob qs
i know its recommended to change the transmission filter whenever a transmission oil change is done but does it really make a difference? Would it matter if it was just cleaned and reinstalled?
02-10-2009, 06:59 PM
#7700
Just drop the pan and take a look, if it looks fine, don't bother.
02-10-2009, 07:00 PM
#7701
Hello again,
Did some more research and I'm certain I'll need a new IACV and ECU. It doesnt appear that anyone has been successful in just replacing the IACV. So I'll be taking my Maxima to the dealer today for a $99 diagnostic. (is that really necessary? probably not, but better get it)
Autozone has $200 IACV. I've found several links to replacing the IACV. Although not mechanically inclined, it seems relatively easy. Guess I should also clean the throttle body while there.
As far as the used ECU/ECM, I'm having trouble finding the right one. Most people are saying that as long as the replacement has Auto w/ Tranaction Control I should be ok. While others are saying that there is a service code located on the old ECU/ECM that I should try matching. So I'm going to ask the dealership to write down that code when they do their diagnostic today. This should help when tracking down a replacement.
I've called several salvage yards around St. Louis and it seems most of them are tied into Car-part.com. So they're coming up with nothing available just as I seen online from Car-part.com for this area. I guess I'll have to expand my search a little farther out of the midwest.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get a used ECU for the 2001 AE Maxima? Local would be great but I understand how scarce these can be? Any other websites I should be looking at for finding this? It would be great if someone knows where a used car like this is sitting waiting for me. I'll do some more research online myself looking for additional sources to find this but am short on time so thought I would ask the board.
After finding the ECU/ECM I plan to have the dealership install this rather than doing it my self. They charge $100 to install, $99 to reset the idele, and $50 for the key reset. Does that all seem reasonable? Do you think that I should just install it myself in their parking lot so that I dont have to get towed or pay for installation?
Any thoughts or feedback on my plan of action would be greatly welcomed.
thanks
Ben
02-10-2009, 07:12 PM
#7702
02-10-2009, 07:14 PM
#7703
02-10-2009, 07:42 PM
#7704
thanks a lot man..really appreciate your help!
i checked oil today and it was more on the brown / clear side and kinda thin
fingers crossed. Hoping this would fix or reduce the transmission skip....
i checked oil today and it was more on the brown / clear side and kinda thin
fingers crossed. Hoping this would fix or reduce the transmission skip....
02-10-2009, 09:16 PM
#7705
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vegas
Posts: 37
Okay, it would've been nice to post a thread about this question, but oh well. I've searched and searched and can't really find anything similar to my problem.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right.
Last edited by jeisai; 02-11-2009 at 07:48 AM.
02-11-2009, 07:03 AM
#7706
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6
hello all...
Question... had a power steering leak a while back. Got the hose replaced. Then about 1-2 months later I went in for a state inspection at another mechanic. The dude said that my control arm bushing was messed up. Either because of an axle leak or power steering leak.
Turn's out that the axle's fine. Could the leak from the power steering hose be to blame for my bad bushing on the control arm?
If so... should I be pissed that the mechanic forgot to clean up the slop on my control arm from the power steering fluid?
Question... had a power steering leak a while back. Got the hose replaced. Then about 1-2 months later I went in for a state inspection at another mechanic. The dude said that my control arm bushing was messed up. Either because of an axle leak or power steering leak.
Turn's out that the axle's fine. Could the leak from the power steering hose be to blame for my bad bushing on the control arm?
If so... should I be pissed that the mechanic forgot to clean up the slop on my control arm from the power steering fluid?
02-11-2009, 11:19 AM
#7707
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3
02-11-2009, 11:27 AM
#7708
Hey guys - new here.
I did a search before hand, so forgive me if this was somewhere obvious and I overlooked it.
First of all, I have a 2002 Maxima with the 3.5 V6. I bought it with 123k miles on it as a trade in at a dealer. The carfax showed that it had been regularly serviced at the dealer by both previous owners. I'm pretty handy with a wrench and familiar with cars and this one seemed good to go during the look over and test drive. The car was exceptionally clean and smooth running, so I had no reservations.
I did notice one thing after about a month of driving though, which is what you all seem to refer to as "shock shift". Now, I might have noticed this had I gone wide open throttle during the test drive, but I didn't.
This is on the 1-2 shift, and usually when starting from a stand still going up hill, or pressing the gas a little heavier to take off and going to 3-3.5k RPM's or so, it seems a bit slow to get into 2nd. Sometimes when it does, it's rather "rough".
Also, at wide open throttle, it seems to hang for a second or two before dropping into 2nd gear @ ~4k RPM's or so, and kind of hang there for awhile. Never slips out of gear during the acceleration - it pulls surprisingly hard in fact. The 2-3 shift is fine, as is the 3-4.
The transmission fluid is pretty pink, and doesn't smell burnt or anything. For all I know, they changed it at the dealer before putting it out on the lot for sale. Now, I know 123k miles isn't exactly a "low mileage" vehicle, but from my research it seemed like the drivetrain, and the 3.5 in particular, is very good and should last me quite some time. I don't abuse the car, it's my daily driver and gets 75% highway mileage on a 33 mile rount trip commute daily.
Can anyone give me some input? Thanks!
I did a search before hand, so forgive me if this was somewhere obvious and I overlooked it.
First of all, I have a 2002 Maxima with the 3.5 V6. I bought it with 123k miles on it as a trade in at a dealer. The carfax showed that it had been regularly serviced at the dealer by both previous owners. I'm pretty handy with a wrench and familiar with cars and this one seemed good to go during the look over and test drive. The car was exceptionally clean and smooth running, so I had no reservations.
I did notice one thing after about a month of driving though, which is what you all seem to refer to as "shock shift". Now, I might have noticed this had I gone wide open throttle during the test drive, but I didn't.
This is on the 1-2 shift, and usually when starting from a stand still going up hill, or pressing the gas a little heavier to take off and going to 3-3.5k RPM's or so, it seems a bit slow to get into 2nd. Sometimes when it does, it's rather "rough".
Also, at wide open throttle, it seems to hang for a second or two before dropping into 2nd gear @ ~4k RPM's or so, and kind of hang there for awhile. Never slips out of gear during the acceleration - it pulls surprisingly hard in fact. The 2-3 shift is fine, as is the 3-4.
The transmission fluid is pretty pink, and doesn't smell burnt or anything. For all I know, they changed it at the dealer before putting it out on the lot for sale. Now, I know 123k miles isn't exactly a "low mileage" vehicle, but from my research it seemed like the drivetrain, and the 3.5 in particular, is very good and should last me quite some time. I don't abuse the car, it's my daily driver and gets 75% highway mileage on a 33 mile rount trip commute daily.
Can anyone give me some input? Thanks!
02-12-2009, 10:38 AM
#7709
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vegas
Posts: 37
Okay, it would've been nice to post a thread about this question, but oh well. I've searched and searched and can't really find anything similar to my problem.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right.
My 02 auto Max shakes above 50, with certain spots where it seems calm and then it picks up again - example: it's shaking like crazy at 70, but at 75 it calms down slightly, then ramping up to 80 it gets progressively worse again.
When I let off the gas and coast, it seems to be more severe - when it's under load, it still sucks, but isn't quite as bad.
The CV's have less than 15k on them, the tie rod ends are brand new, the rotors/pads are brand new, the struts/strut mounts/strut boots are all brand new, and the alignment has been done twice - both times by the same shop, but I'm not really convinced they did anything. I've had the tires balanced, bled the brakes, inspected everything I can myself, and I can't figure out the problem. I've tried the 6-12, 3-9'oclock shake to check the hub/bearings, but it seems as tight as ever.
The rear tires have mild cupping, but it's not bad. I plan on getting them replaced this weekend, along with my front right wheel hub/bearing.
The problem seems to be originating in the front right - for a while, it seemed as though, at highway speeds, when I veered left it would smooth out, then when I veered right it would shake again. However, I can't really tell for sure whether that's the case or not.
The problem only started around the time I did the brakes and/or tie rod ends (can't remember which for sure), but I also blew a strut two days later, and replaced those this weekend (two weeks later).
Any advice would be greaaaaaat.
Forgot to mention, the car pulls to the right.
Oh, wait. I can't.
02-12-2009, 03:43 PM
#7712
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
k umm anybod cna u guys please help me out i am a noob AT ALL THIS STUFF PRETTY YUONG KID AND would really just like to makemy maxima a little bit fASTER SO IF U GUYS COULD HELP ME OUT BY GIVING ME SOME STEPPS TO INCREASE TOP SPEED AND HORSEPOWER IT WOULD BE A Real big help soo maybe if u guys just posted some things to help me out i could maybe get the ball rolling already
02-12-2009, 03:54 PM
#7713
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Moore, OK
Posts: 1,767
k umm anybod cna u guys please help me out i am a noob AT ALL THIS STUFF PRETTY YUONG KID AND would really just like to makemy maxima a little bit fASTER SO IF U GUYS COULD HELP ME OUT BY GIVING ME SOME STEPPS TO INCREASE TOP SPEED AND HORSEPOWER IT WOULD BE A Real big help soo maybe if u guys just posted some things to help me out i could maybe get the ball rolling already
Where do you plan on going "top speed?" Hopefully not on any public road.....
How much money do you have?
02-12-2009, 05:21 PM
#7714
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 9
Hi
I just need some help wiring my HID with my harness
here is some picture i took. i know blue is low beam and green is high beams and brown is ground wire ( i don't know what that means )?
My hid has three different kinda of wire .
I need help connecting the right wires.
I just need some help wiring my HID with my harness
here is some picture i took. i know blue is low beam and green is high beams and brown is ground wire ( i don't know what that means )?
My hid has three different kinda of wire .
I need help connecting the right wires.
02-13-2009, 04:50 AM
#7715
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 126
First piece of advice: don't be a jerk. That won't get you anywhere on these forums.
The 15 post rule before you can start a thread does a great job of forcing people to use the search functions and existing threads, but I can sympathize with you that it's frustrating when you've already searched and want to create a thread.
Rest assured though--you're in the right place. These guys are smart, and they've solved a lot of problems.
I don't know much, but I'd put my money on that hub/bearing you're gonna replace. I'm in the middle of one of those right now. Let us know how it goes afterward.
Good luck!
The 15 post rule before you can start a thread does a great job of forcing people to use the search functions and existing threads, but I can sympathize with you that it's frustrating when you've already searched and want to create a thread.
Rest assured though--you're in the right place. These guys are smart, and they've solved a lot of problems.
I don't know much, but I'd put my money on that hub/bearing you're gonna replace. I'm in the middle of one of those right now. Let us know how it goes afterward.
Good luck!
02-13-2009, 09:16 AM
#7716
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
Hi guys !!!
You need to help me. I love the car but i think the man who sell me the car, just got really bad. Anyways, i'm stok with it now. I got a maxima 2001 20th an automatic. First, my acceleration is really bad. It's like i'm driving a 4 cyl. I have a CES light on. This is the oxygen sensor bank1 who cause that ( I don't know the code, the guys just told me that. I forgot to ask like a dumb). I don't know if it will be the reason of the acceleration. Second, when I start the car the morning, i wait like 2 or 3 min to let the car warm. When I put on D and try to accelerate, it's like it won't take gas. But after like 1 or 2 min of driving everything ok. First i was thinking that's normal but in the last day, the cold wasn't so bad and still did it. But it happen just when the car is cold. Hope that you can help !!
p.s oh yeah, i have a abs sensor that i have to change, i don't think that's the problem but we don't know. I'm just waiting to know how much its gonna cost me for my other problem
Escuse me for my english, so i'm not so good for writing but I can read well
Thank you, hope u understand what i'm talking about!!
You need to help me. I love the car but i think the man who sell me the car, just got really bad. Anyways, i'm stok with it now. I got a maxima 2001 20th an automatic. First, my acceleration is really bad. It's like i'm driving a 4 cyl. I have a CES light on. This is the oxygen sensor bank1 who cause that ( I don't know the code, the guys just told me that. I forgot to ask like a dumb). I don't know if it will be the reason of the acceleration. Second, when I start the car the morning, i wait like 2 or 3 min to let the car warm. When I put on D and try to accelerate, it's like it won't take gas. But after like 1 or 2 min of driving everything ok. First i was thinking that's normal but in the last day, the cold wasn't so bad and still did it. But it happen just when the car is cold. Hope that you can help !!
p.s oh yeah, i have a abs sensor that i have to change, i don't think that's the problem but we don't know. I'm just waiting to know how much its gonna cost me for my other problem
Escuse me for my english, so i'm not so good for writing but I can read well
Thank you, hope u understand what i'm talking about!!
02-13-2009, 09:31 AM
#7717
Hi guys !!!
You need to help me. I love the car but i think the man who sell me the car, just got really bad. Anyways, i'm stok with it now. I got a maxima 2001 20th an automatic. First, my acceleration is really bad. It's like i'm driving a 4 cyl. I have a CES light on. This is the oxygen sensor bank1 who cause that ( I don't know the code, the guys just told me that. I forgot to ask like a dumb). I don't know if it will be the reason of the acceleration. Second, when I start the car the morning, i wait like 2 or 3 min to let the car warm. When I put on D and try to accelerate, it's like it won't take gas. But after like 1 or 2 min of driving everything ok. First i was thinking that's normal but in the last day, the cold wasn't so bad and still did it. But it happen just when the car is cold. Hope that you can help !!
p.s oh yeah, i have a abs sensor that i have to change, i don't think that's the problem but we don't know. I'm just waiting to know how much its gonna cost me for my other problem
Escuse me for my english, so i'm not so good for writing but I can read well
Thank you, hope u understand what i'm talking about!!
You need to help me. I love the car but i think the man who sell me the car, just got really bad. Anyways, i'm stok with it now. I got a maxima 2001 20th an automatic. First, my acceleration is really bad. It's like i'm driving a 4 cyl. I have a CES light on. This is the oxygen sensor bank1 who cause that ( I don't know the code, the guys just told me that. I forgot to ask like a dumb). I don't know if it will be the reason of the acceleration. Second, when I start the car the morning, i wait like 2 or 3 min to let the car warm. When I put on D and try to accelerate, it's like it won't take gas. But after like 1 or 2 min of driving everything ok. First i was thinking that's normal but in the last day, the cold wasn't so bad and still did it. But it happen just when the car is cold. Hope that you can help !!
p.s oh yeah, i have a abs sensor that i have to change, i don't think that's the problem but we don't know. I'm just waiting to know how much its gonna cost me for my other problem
Escuse me for my english, so i'm not so good for writing but I can read well
Thank you, hope u understand what i'm talking about!!
02-13-2009, 01:00 PM
#7720