bcmfxtrader

okay ...replaced battery and terminals...still nothing on the starting issue. get power to everything. lights/all auxillary, can hear starter solenoid click in, everything ...just no cranking of engine, at all. didnt take a jump start either. again ...this happens within 48 hours of the IACV starting to and eventually going out.

purely coincidence...probably, lol ...

anyone have ANY ideas on this starting, or lack thereof, problem ?????

thanks in advance for any help !!!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you not tested the starter yet? Checked the connections between battery and starter?

If the starter just clicks, and you are sure that the battery has a good charge, it's either the connections, or the starter itself is dead/dying.

I'd test it in place, if it fails that then pulling it, bench testing it, and replacing it.

capframe

iTrader: (1)

I would appreciate your help in the following thread. Thank you.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post6959928

skater

Hi There,

I have a 2000 Maxima, 79,000 miles. The car has had a lot of care since Dec. 2008--new computer, 4 new cylinder coils and new rear break. Most recently, a new rear right suspension.

I have noticed that as I turn my car to the left, on slow turns < 30mph, my car makes a bit of a squealing/grinding noise. It does not happen when driving straight, turning right, or going more than 30mph.

advice? Any idea how much the repair will cost? A LOT of money has gone into this car in the last year--at what point do I just throw in the towel?

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

can someone plz give me a 101 on aftermarket y-pipes?
i have a cali spec 01. If i buy a warpspeed y-pipe, will it remove both of the precats or just one? I can't figure out which one would fit my car out of this list
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories


and where would the 02 sensors go ? Would they throw a code ?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Got all new tires, "Kumho Ecsta Asx" to be exact. The ride is 300% better: smoother, quieter, and when I go over bumps, I don't hear a loud sound like the wheel's gonna fall off and the bump steer is lessened considerably. Much stiffer steering & less effort required to keep the car straight...the auto-steer is also gone! Now once I do my endlinks, I should be golden.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

It is hard to determine the cause of your problem without hearing specifically what sound is being made. The problem could be caused by any of the following or more:
1. One of your belts may be loose or require replacement.
2. A strut mount (the very top of the strut where it attaches to the car) could be worn out.
3. Your brakes may need to be serviced. The pads could be low on one side due to a number of problems; bad caliper or defective pad(s); worn out retaining clips on the pads; bad rotor.
4. Worn wheel bearings
5. Worn sway bay bushing or linkage.

None of these repairs is overly expensive. If you don't have automotive repair skills I'd suggest taking your car to a couple of shops to get the problem diagnosed and estimate for repairs. If you have a shop you trust take it there and get an estimate.

Better still, if you have enough confidence, get a service manual, you can download one from the internet free, and fix the problem yourself. You'll learn something and save yourself some money at the same time. In addition, if you need any specialty tools, Advance Auto and other auto parts stores loan tools for free.

Good luck.

skater

Teddie--thanks for your help. I was driving it in the rain today--no noise. I stopped by the mechanics and they advised bringing it back on a dry day. Will be sure to let you know what it is.

Platinum645

i have a 2000 maxima se automatic with 67000 miles whenever i drive the car hard or if i drive it for a long time or even highway its starts to buck when i stop and im on the breaks if i drive it slow and easy it works fine. can my O2 sensor cause that to happen...it feel like sumthing is mis firein but my car is practally brand new and i newer beat on it neither have i messed wit the engine...can someone please tell me whats wrong with my car?????

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

O2 sensor is very unlikely.

Practically brand new? It's 9 or 10 years old, depending on build date.

No codes?

It's most likely the coils, do you have the updated coils or the originals?

rezinflux

Hi, I just bought a 2003 Maxima from an auction in D.C. I didn't actually see the car up close, just pics and it had been in an accident. Turns out the impact left the drivers side front wheel crooked and bent the driver side strut and tie rod. I can't figure out what's wrong with the trans. I'm still very new to manual transmissions so please bear with me. Here's what it's doing:
I still need to hold down the clutch to turn it on. (normal)
I can shift into every gear with the car on or off without having to press in the clutch (not normal)
When the car is on, and I put it in gear, it goes all the way into gear, but when I rev the engine nothing happens as though the wheels are not actually engaged with the engine. (what's missing?) On the other hand, If the car is in gear I can't push the car or at least not by myself (I've yet to try it with more people) Any idea what I need to do to get this fixed. Can the transmission be removed and the clutch be replaced without having to lift out the entire engine?
Sorry if I asked too many questions, but thanks in advance.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, the trans can be removed quite easily without pulling the engine. Not a lot of cars you have to pull the engine to pull the trans.

If it's in neutral, can you push the car then? Have you looked underneath to see if the driver's side axle was damaged?

Progress

iTrader: (26)

Do you know anything about the history of the car?

danielq333

Hey guys. I have a maxima 02 with 120k. The car runs fine for the most part however, when I accelerate moderately I get this screech or whistle coming from the front(?). My unskilled assumption is that it maybe that the chain belt is loose.

rezinflux

Yes when it's in neutral I can push it, I haven't actually taken the wheel off yet, I will be doing alot more today in investingating the issues. But from the wobbleness of the wheel I assume the drivers side axle is damaged.

No, I don't know much about the history, I know the name of the previous owner from documents found in the car, but I don't want to disclose it in open forums. The car was in what seemed like a very lite accident, (driver's door and fender and just under the door there's a large dent.) The car was bought from a national auction from its washington DC location. The owner lived in Virginia. He did a custom exhaust, slotted disc brakes, and some sort of intake upgrades) I can post pictures if anyone thinks they can help me figure out if the car belonged to an orger.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

I doubt it's the timing chain

It does not screech nor whistle when worn. It sound like you may be hearing your intake or maybe a hole in your exhaust manifold. Does it get louder as you accelerate?

rezinflux

Ok, today I took the wheel off, and the drivers side strut/shock was bent, the inner tie rod was bent and the rest seemed ok. I replaced both the shock/strut and the inner and outer tie-rod. As I had the car with the front wheels off the ground I took a good look at the drivers side axle, as I put it in gear and gave it gas it did turn, but there is a little bit of wobble to it. As of now, I can no longer just shift without pressing on the clutch, which it was allowing me to do before. And when I put it in gear it does actually move but just barely and giving it more gas makes almost no difference, reverse seems to work a little better than first/second... I don't know a thing about stick maximas but I know when I let off the clutch on my stick 4 cylinder ford fusion while it's in gear, it stalls right away. This maxima doesn't stall at all. I let off the clutch and have it in 1st, 2nd... every gear, and the car doesn't stall. If anyone has any idea what else could be wrong with it, please shoot me some ideas. Thanks

oski H

Hey guys.

For the past two days around late night i noticed when i come to a stop in my maxima it starts to shake or stutter sort of. Also when i drive it does this sort of jerking motion. Any ideas what this might be?. Also i noticed that their is a noise coming from the muffler area. Almost like a rattling.

Melchizedek

My question seems buried in an old thread and I cannot yet post a new thread. So...help:

Recently as I accelerated hard onto a highway the SES light came on (2001 Maxima AE, 70,000 miles) and remained on after refueling. Thus, I didn't think it was a gas cap problem and the light remained on for three days. I arranged a service with my local Nissan dealer, but on the morning of the 4th day when I started the car, the light was off. I took my Max in for service anyway as I also needed a brake service (wondered if it might be the 4th O2 sensor as three had already required replacement).

The service advisor assured me they could pull the ECM code for the problem even though the light was now off.

When I spoke to the service advisor 4 hours later he said the car was ready, but the engine coils were getting weak; he recommended replacement of all 6 ignition coils and plugs. I agreed and he said the parts would be ordered: cost for the job $1100.00 CDN. When I picked up my Max he said the code was 1320 and that this indicated, not a specific coil, but all in general were weak, i.e., measuring low resistance. He told me that if it had been a specific coil, the code would be 1321 plus a code indicating the problem coil(s).

When I arrived home I looked over the service report in greater detail and found that the service tech noted he had checked for codes, but found NONE! The report read: "OK at this time, maybe an intermittent problem make sure gas cap is secured properly."

There was no evidence that any test had been performed on the coils whatsoever. From reading an older thread, I have the impression that "resistance" per se is not a completely reliable method for testing coils (particularly since there is a power transistor in the secondary of the ignition coil)...putting it on a scope is a much better approach.

In any case, I have no idle problems, no acceleration problems, no misfiring, no engine knock, no 1320 code and no record of any testing done on the coils. Am I missing something here, or is this service advisor's brain misfiring and not running on all cylinders? Any help will be much appreciated.

Progress

iTrader: (26)

Did you approve the $1,100 bill? Did you do so based on him telling you about the code? If so, I'd go complain. It sounds like they convinced you to do work under false pretense.

1stMax2K3SE

I started to replace my original struts, but can not get the wheel assembly straight to mount the new strut. the wheel/hub/roter is leand out and turned itself right??? it's almost like the axel pulled out or something. any tips to straiten out the wheel assemble to mount the new strut?? any help is appreciate..

VQP0WER

You don't happen to have your jack under the control arms, do you?

VQP0WER

I agree. They boned you. For the future, I would make sure you state you want the old parts back if they want to replace anything.

1stMax2K3SE

No, i do not. i have a jackstand on the uni-frame and the jack barely holding up the wheel assembly. even tried free hangin the wheel ***. any ideas??

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mentioned you considered the possibility of the axle having popped apart, but nothing else.

Have you not checked the outer boot to see if it came apart? Tried to put it back together?

1stMax2K3SE

I checked the outer boot too, and the axel is tightly in place. no sign of it popping off the wheel ***.. i am at a loss. as soon as i removed the two lower strut mount bolts, the wheel immediately leaned out i wish i could attach a pic to sho you.

any ideas?

thanks,

-john

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You do have both wheels off of the ground, right? If not, you're going to be fighting the sway bar the whole time.

Is it not lining up right with the holes in the strut, not going up high enough, or can you not turn it straight to get it back in place?

1stMax2K3SE

hummmm... i only have the right side off the ground.... sounds like this may be my issue.. It's not lining up right with the holes in the strut so i can't turn it straight to get it back in place.. both wheels need to be off the ground to do struts?

TheOnlyMax88

iTrader: (1)

I know this must have been covered before but everytime i search somthing simple say, "exhaust" completly irrelivent things come up that have nuthing to do with what im looking for not even relating to exhaust its not help anyways...i got a 2002 max and am looking to get the 2001 se tails (black housing red and white circles) are those plug and play or do i have to mod them to fit/work>??

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Wait, what? You don't need it to be straight to line up with the holes in the strut, the strut body will turn back and forth. You also don't need it to be lined up with the strut to turn the knuckle around.

Is it on the wrong vertical angle to bolt up properly, or what? Have a pic?

It's not required, but it helps. Just jack up the other side real quick and see if that helps any.

1stMax2K3SE

it's on the wrong vertical angle to bolt up properly. i have pic... but it won't let me post. my email is jfc_102773@yahoo. i can send pic from there..
jacking up the other side did not help any.....

any other ideas?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Are you searching by relevancy, or by last post date?

Search works fine for me

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-se-tails.html

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You can upload them to a generic picture sharing site and link them here.

Have you tried jacking up the other side?

1stMax2K3SE

Yeah, just tried jacking up the other side, and no additional gains.

here's a link to the pic

http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/A...2/t_=164402292
http://www2.snapfish.com/slideshow/A...2/t_=164402292

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you tried jacking up the LCA to see if you can line everything up then?

And FWIW that picture doesn't show any problems, that's how they usually are at rest.

1stMax2K3SE

yeah... that was the first thing i tried... all out of my bags of tricks... other than to have a wrecker come pick it up and bring it to a shop...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Other than the axle having popped out, nothing else should keep it from going into place.

You said that the axle hadn't popped out of the hub, but that's a given, unless you have no axle nut on there. What you need to be looking for is the joint having come apart within the axle boot. It may not be very noticeable, but hold the hub out straight, start rotating the axle and try to push the entire hub/knuckle assembly inward.

1stMax2K3SE

I'll give that another try... when i hold the hub out and manually turn the hub by hand the axel does rotate freely.. guess it needs a little finess to find the exact sweet spot to fall inward properly... i'll give it another shot. Many THANKS!!

-john

TheOnlyMax88

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, yah ill look at how i am searching and see if that makes a diff. so ya i think i can just swap them only thing is the blinkers are different and i planned on getting new ones anyway so its not amber, thanks tho dude.

rezinflux

HI, just did this exact same thing yesterday. Replaced inner and outer tie rod and replaced the strut. but on the drivers side. When you tilt the steering knuckle (part that the tie rod is attached to) upward to begin to line it up with the strut is it letting you go up all the way to where the holes in the knuckle are at the same height as the two holes in the strut? If not I just got down on one knee and raised the control arm with my other knee to lift it to line up with the height of the two holes in the strut. or you could just lift it up with a 2x4 stud on the ground and lifting up the Lower control arm. also if your other wheel is on the ground I'm not sure, but it would be harder to turn the steering knuckle side to side with the tie rod still attached to the steering knuckle. easiest thing would be to have both wheels off the ground and not on ramps. Also I noticed on mine, that the actual strut will rotate a bit as well as flex also. So between the give in the strut and the give in the steering knuckle you should be able to line them up with maybe a little bit of leverage from underneath the control arm. Hope this helps.